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They say you have to dig a thousand pull tabs to find a gold ring. Today I reset the counter back to zero again with this chunky 10k.

One of the major things you'll find with something like that Manticore that you'll miss with your Equinox 800 is the big hole in your wallet buying the Manticore leaves. Detectors were already so good before these new ones come out that there is not a significant difference in my opinion, yes they have strong points older models may not, how much that changes someones finds really depends on what they hunt and where, for a majority of people I suspect there would be very little difference in their finds.

Over the past two weeks I've bought an MXT, V3i, and Spectrum XLT. There's just something I like about those big box detectors. I swear, somebody better not post a 6000 XL. It's one I've always wanted to try. That MXT is a beast with DD coils on it. I wish I could have found the Pro model just for the ground grab button but for no more than what I have in this regular MXT, I'm not complaining. The V3i is one complex dude. It is going to take some time to figure it all out. I've not received the XLT yet but I know a few guys from Georgia that used to hunt with them in all metal and would wear me out in red dirt on Civil War relics. I always wanted one...took me nearly 30 years to get one. Side note: In playing with the V3i, it may very well have one of, if not the deepest, most customizable all metal mode of any VLF machine I have used. In my test garden I am wooed. Whether or not that setting will be usable in actual hunting conditions, is yet to be determined.

For the past year, I have been predominately spending time in areas where I know there are coins to try to teach myself how to use my detector. In my part of Ohio, there are no clubs close and I didn’t know anyone who detects, so through information gained on this site and trial and error, Ive tried to teach myself. After finding several hundred dollars worth of clad last year, I decided this year I would focus on older homesites to try to start finding older items. Couple days ago, a friend and I went out to a mid 1800’s permission and I found a bucket lister, a civil war box plate. There are very few civil war locations in Ohio and those are protected so I figured the chances of finding anything civil war related, was very thin. I also found an 1874 Japanese 1 Sen coin, about 10 feet from it. Although the box plate is a little beat up, its easily the best day detecting I’ve had so far. So, thank you to everyone for all the expert help and advice.

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I want to thank everyone who replied on this thread as I have been thinking about getting a new detector so I could retire grandfathers 800. It sounds as if there is very little difference in depth and performance of the 2 detectors, and they also have the same issues with EMI. My area has a lot of EMI even out in the country as the power company uses a lot of WI-FI to the home electric meters. I guess I will hold on to the 800, learn it more, and try to make grandfather proud that he left it to me.

I found this coin on top of a hill in an area where I have found lots of relics. Both Confederate and Union items have turned up in this general area. The coin looks to be made around the mid 1800s . I would like to think it was carried by a soldier but I'll never know. The obverse side where the state, lodge# and individuals name would have been has been intentionally wiped clean the rim around the edge is still intact so I don't think it's normal wear. Maybe he was trying to hide his identity.

These devices you gave links to all are junk rip off devices so I deleted the links. Please don’t post any more links of this type as a new member or I’ll assume you are a spammer. A house is full of metal so a metal detector won’t help you much, if at all. You will need to either remember where you hid them, or methodically search until you find them.

My first years of metal detecting involved Whites metal detectors. I especially liked the Liberty Di and always found a silver dime when I hunted with one. I currently own 4 Whites. Eagle II SL 90,XL PRO and 2 Liberty Di units. One is a super rare demonstration model. The accessory coils are numerous. I also have most of the Jimmy Sierra loops(Applied Creativity) that were made. You cant' go wrong with Whites!

The key is in cleaning it correctly. The original surface is hair thin and totally corroded. You see where it has cone off in a few places. Underneath it fluffy green corrosion, and under that pitted metal with brown corrosion. To preserve the original surface, I dried the buckle slowly, then used a soft brush to get the loose dirt off, then applied a penetrating, hardening oil (Odie's Oil) to stabilize the surface. I used a soft brush to work it in, and a soft, lintfree cloth to remove the excess (and extra dirt). Then I put it away for a week or so to give the oil time to cure. Now it's safe to handle, and the surface is preserved. You can even see tool marks where the maker cleaned up the casting. if I had rinsed it in water, all this would have been lost.

MXT all Pro with several coils, including two ultimates, and the Big Foot! And two modded TDI SL's with Miner Johns, and a Sadie! One of the two TDI's is in my current beach lineup on a regular basis! The other's a spare! They balance very nicely, and find all the right stuff; and junk! Love that I'm only one of two in the area ( that I've seen) pulling finds with these great machines! (the other, a hunting buddy, TY👍)! I like it when some beach hunters scoff, at my big camo covered machine😁!! Got a couple other's for under water (not the 800😡), Tesoro and Garrett, for when the conditions are right in the summer! 🍀👍👍

Sounds like a bad case of Whiteitis…….no known cure and can be highly infectious to those around you. Symptoms include wide staring eyes and a crazy laugh and often includes rash (but oh so satisfying) decision making (especially on eBay).

That deal on a pristine unit is how I came to have the MXT and V3i. I can't even tell if the V3i was ever taken out of the box until I opened it and can almost say the same for the MXT. The V3i came with a 10x12 SEF coil as well. I was actually one of the pre-production testers for the Vision aka V3i. My job was to test the stereo mixed mode and give feedback. This was the exact time frame I started using the Whites TDI and I never gave the V3i much attention after seeing what the pulse units could do. It is a very EMI prone unit for sure. But that all metal mode is smoking. Prospecting mode on the MXT is somewhat close to it IF the gain is maxed completely out and SAT adjusted accordingly. I'm definitely going to have to take these two to the minie ball field and do some playing.

Good for you. The older units can still get it done. Just as important, they can re teach us about how to set up and run on more difficult sites. You have to think instead of just going with the built in whizz bang.

The auto trac system on my MXT Pro is lightning fast and updates to changing ground conditions much more effectively than either my Legend or Equinox. It’s so efficient that I seldom use the lock setting or ground grab button (except to prevent “tracking out” a weak signal). BTW, I rarely ever use the ground tracking mode on either my Legend or Equinox.

OK, I'll play along. 🙂 So you have no idea whatsoever where you hid it? I think you just need to start looking everywhere again until you come across it. A metal detector can normally only see large metal objects a half meter or so away. Besides a house is loaded with other metals that will trigger it. Metal detector is a bad idea. You'll need more countless hours of searching. Start opening doors and boxes and use your eyeballs. Were you drunk or otherwise impaired when you hid it?

It's true that the beach programs have an issue with iron separation on buried targets...ferrous and non-ferrous targets on top of the ground can be separated by those same beach programs...a conundrum as I called it in that post. However, just going by my experience on the Florida tourist beaches I hunt, we don't run into much iron at all...unlike land hunters. So until the talented XP engineers can resolve this issue with the beach programs, I'll continue to place ultimate trust in my Deus II, the best detector on the market in my opinion, and bank on the odds that the little iron we do see on our beaches won't affect a successful hunt very much. As for using land programs on the beach, I have used a modified General and Deep HC but ONLY on VERY dry sand away from any "saltyness." My experience over the years has been that once you get into even the least bit of sand tainted by saltwater, those land programs aren't effective. They're just not designed to hunt in saltwater environments. Now again, I caveat all of the above in that this is just my experience on the beaches I hunt. Not all beaches are the same by a long shot. The settings I use in Florida may not be effective on Virginia or Hawaii beaches for example. Programs and settings must be tailored to the specific environment...particularly on saltwater beaches. Just the view from my "beachy" foxhole... 😉

Not too bad actually……shipping and fully insured for about $50 USD. I could have sold it several times over such is the demand for these cult machines. I think he sold two of the bigger coils and recouped $200….so it only really cost him $300 all up.

Greetings... I just purchased a new,old stock D-Tex CK series metal detector. I bought it to use with my Garrett Bloodhound Depth Multiplier that operates at 15 khz. I wanted a 2 box setup for cheap and figured this was the way to go. Evidenly this is the latest model CK series as the early series were numbered. I.E. CK 20 and so forth. Any information would be greatly appreciated on how this operated as a coin hunter.

I'm hoping as I post my finds some people who have put their Sport in the closet are going to say something like "I didn't know that" I'll try it. Maybe some new interest will get People helping each other. Maybe something small will make a big difference. Long ago post a person said "Audio Mode and VCO OFF Then said the PP audio didn't do a thing. After hours of working VCO setting and posting them, I feel good that I figured out what I did. Just one thing, but I got it.

Thanks guys! The car looks to be a little high mileage, so the bluebook on it might be on the low side. But, I went back out to the same site and found three more cars! I’m thinking of opening a used car lot. I can make you a good deal! 🤣 Tide car circa mid 90s. Ferrari early 90s and matchbox Ford corsair #45 early 50s. The two buckles were within about 8 inches of each other close to one of the two wheat pennies I found this trip. The odd piece is the metal plate which appears to say “Cowwodol” on the flat side. I am not sure what to make of the pattern on the other side. There are at least five holes through it like it was screwed onto something with small screws. There’s also two raised spots on opposite sides of the patterned side. Almost like it seated against another piece - like half of some sort of embossing press. Any ideas on what this could be? Update on the 1914 WHS medallion – A local historical society is interested and is doing some digging. Hopefully they can find something.

I can clearly remember, in a time long ago when things were quite different. I used to get into scraps often and as early as kindergarten. I remember the principal would pull out a leather strap about 8" long. He would have us BOTH put our hands out palm up. And smack our palms. Once. It hurt pretty bad. Then he would look us square in the eye and say we couldn't go back to class until we shook hands and made up. That was pretty hard to do, however, it was something that actually worked. When you shake and make up it's like some kind of social agreement. Guys would say things like yeah we shook hands and that was the end of it. How times have changed...

I was hoping the MX Sport would be an MXT in a new, waterproof wrapper, but it wasn't to be. Interface and written instructions were non-intuitive compared to the MXT (I like analog knobs), sensitivity had to be cranked down so low on salt beaches for stability I could never really take advantage of its waterproofness (MXT is basically rain resistant, which is fine for relic detecting, never pretended it was a beach detector), and there were performance issues upon release, which necessitated shipment back to Whites. Finally, the plastic battery compartment screw mounts simply cracked when exposed to cold such that I had to send it back across the country AGAIN to Whites (on my dime) to get it fixed under warranty. That was the last straw. Sold it shortly after that. Never had any such issues with my metal clad MXT. So, yeah, there is something to be said for those detectors that are built like a tank and just get the job done.

Never going to give up my MXT or F75 as they are classics with some great finds memories. But frankly, the whizz bang just works, and works well, so they don't see much action unless I'm feeling nostalgic or absolutely need to detect with a concentric coil (because none of my Whizz bangers support those). But again, just never get around to it. If I'm serious and have limited time at a good relic site, mild or hot, the Whizz Bangers are coming out. But if I see a deal I can't refuse on a classic in pristine condition, like a V3i, I might just grab it for the heck of it.

He looks a lot like 'Pioneer Pauly' It's rumuored that he's a vampire.

A couple of years ago X-coils discontinued older legacy model GPX coils, however demand has been large in their part of the world by relic hunters and big deep gold hunters for a large coil, so they come up with the goods with a 32" Spiral wound GPX 4500/5000 coil. It's an absolute monster of a coil, I can't imagine this being sold into the international market due to shipping a coil this size, hopefully the people in Europe can find some good deep relics and gold with this thing. It's good seeing some life brought into older models with all the excitement and talk these days of the newer models.

buddy that's very educational. you are legend. thank you so much. due to langauge barrier and levels to understanding of my machine I cant fully understand what you mean sometimes in machine but i will read a few times more lol

May be related to the dual coinage system in use at the time. A Spanish "bit" was worth 12 1/2 cents and the medio 6 1/4 cents. Both were commonly used in the 1830s along with US coinage. Often, the medio and the US half dime were used interchangeably, but one party would lose 1 1/4 cents in the exchange. A cent and a cut 1/2 cent added to a US half dime would be a fair exchange for a medio (in theory).

I merely experimented with Gary’s Sonar program. I’ve not seriously used it for anything yet. Relic hunts for me are very few and very far between. Later today, I’ll PM you my spreadsheet of the programs I use which includes the modified General.

Very cool. Cleaned up well. Grats on a bucket list find!

Pretty nice find! Wouldn't it be grand if some of our relics could talk? Good hit! HH jim tn

Great plate!

32" spiral...mono coil? And you mentioned in the post GPX 4500/5000 and in the heading GP and GPX...it still work on the GP series? Weight will be interesting 👍

If the Deus 2 did not suffer from Iron-wrap around. One would not have to worry about this!

The only thing I didn't like about that screen was it was Polarized. When looking through Polarized Sunglasses in the bright sun, the screen was BLACK due to the double Polarization. I always had to Pinpoint with my back to the sun. That tracking Software was designed by Dave Johnson who was freelancing after he left Fisher. He also sold it to Tesoro for their Lobo Super-Traq. When he went back to Fisher, he decided a GRAB button was better.

More photos.

Whites was my favorite company until they went under. I lived an hour and a half from the factory when they closed their doors. Before I moved back to Oregon; I went through Jimmy Sierra. The only real difference that I noticed on the MX Sport was when I air-tested a Brass button and a Minie ball, they both came up "Bullet". On the MXT, they read what they were. I mentioned that to Whites right after it came out. I doubt if they ever fixed it. Thank God the GMX Sport works the same as the 24K! I have an XLT and a DFX (Dual Frequency XLT). I don't use them much. I rent the XLT with a 15" coil out once in a while to someone looking for iron spikes in logs before they send them to the mill. I have the old "Sierra Madre" program on my External Hard drive. That was for Cache Hunting with the big coil. I need to dig that out and share it.

To be clear, I would go with General on dry sand ONLY. Although in my opinion, the observed ferrous separation issues are not that big a deal, its not like you are typically detecting in a bed of nails situation on the beach, so I just stick with variants of Beach Sensitive everywhere using pitch audio which is the most reactive and iron volume at the disc breakpoint (I use between 7 to 10 disc, the Beach sensitive "variants" are based on the three different FMF Maximimum frequencies that are available now - see below). If I have my doubts about a ferrous target, I can turn on it or use General as an interrogation program if I am concerned something might actually be masked against a tent stake. I don't lose much sleep over it, but it is a real thing that has been demonstrated. If you are in the wet sand or surf, you really don't have a choice for stability and you need to go with beach or beach sensitive (or Dive if you want to go a little deeper on high conductors). You can go to this thread for more details on what's new with Ver 1.1 (and some of the lingering issues and new quirks) but there are basically four major changes of note: You can now adjust the top end (maximum) FMF frequency for any FMF (XP's version simultaneous multifrequency) program - you pick either 14 khz, 24 khz, or 40 khz. This biases the FMF towards depth and high conductors (14 khz), Middle of the road performance (24 khz), or bias towards micro targets and lower conductors such as gold, brass, or lead (40 khz). Full Tones has been improved to enable iron volume to be used at or below the discrimination breakpoint regardless of the disc setting (it used to only work at disc = 0 or below. A new audio profile has been added called HiSquare - it is sort of a hybrid between Square and PCM. Gives you a little more tonal harmonic distortion to aid in audible target ID but not to the extent of the mosquito tones of PCM. Finally, XP added a 5 level audio filter - increase the setting and you can get more tonal nuance out of non-ferrous targets which can perhaps aid in depth or identifying the harmonic distortion associated with aluminum can slaw and the like. HTH gets you started.

I remember way back having a 7 HP Ted Williams air cooled outboard engine, used the heck out of that thing and it was reliable, great for duck hunting, fishing, etc.

Not much different than XP, ML, Nokta at product release time. I remember because you called out XP for the same behavior with Deus 2 and coils… Like you said then, product release anticipation invariably comes with ”High Anxiety”.

This article makes me wish I lived closer to the gold field up in that area! There's Gold in Them There Hills...or, at Least Across Washington (newstalk870.am)

Do you know what my shirt looks like after a day detecting...? 😬 Not washing it would mean the end of any social activities. Perhaps not a bad idea....Permethrin works well for me and is the only reliable tick defender of those that I have tried. I have tried many "natural" sprays, none of them worked for me. Those ticks on the North Yuba river need the nuclear option, otherwise they just laugh at you. But I will give YaYa a try. I do pretreat my clothes and gear regularly though when using Permethrin. A small price to pay IMO when operating in heavily tick invested areas. I usually spray Deet on top of it right before detecting and always wear long pants and long sleve shirts, tucked in. I am not (too) worried about bears, mountain lions and snakes (except Mojave Greens). But ticks I am most scared of. GC

Your'e welcome. cjc

I for one won't be flashing back, in my mild soils the update is exactly what I was hoping for. It's kept depth the same while improving target ID's.

Really? Well a hoax with an actual working prototype that Andy Sabisch spent several months testing is a pretty elaborate ruse and to what end??? What have they to gain by going to all this trouble with little to show for it other than some social media hoopla that might cause a blip in sales of existing Quest products at the cost of their reputation? Is that what you would consider good business sense? By that logic, Nokta and Minelab and XP with significant delays between actual and advertised release dates would be labeled as notorious hoaxsters. No it’s more likely just the usual delays stemming from resolving last minute production line glitches or distribution logistics as per usual. Thought question: Do conspiracy theorists take the time to really think their theories through…with logic?

I like the looks (and price) of that Legend. Thanks for the info!

See the link below for a post I put together for another forum member who was considering the AT Pro. Whether you are considering the AT Pro or AT Max, the advice is the same. As mentioned above, the AT Pro and AT Max platforms were game changers back in the day but while they still get it done, they are long in the tooth and are missing some features, such as recovery speed adjustments, that will enable you to better access targets in areas where a lot of junk targets are clustered together (basically the the last frontier where old targets had been previously inaccessible due to limitations in detector processing speed). All the detectors we are talking about have about the same depth capability, but speed and target ID accuracy can help improve your treasure to trash ratio. Check out the post below for additional information on a number of the latest crop of detectors and look for the best bang for your buck and a detector that is versatile enough to tackle different detecting objectives (coin shooting, jewelry, relics, or gold on land, in farm fields, or in fresh or salt water). Many recently released detectors such as the Legend, Equinox, Deus 2, and Manticore have the versatility to tackle all these challenges. But the price range is huge and the older, less versatile detectors such as the AT Max are not really discounted enough to make them necessarily good bargains when you have something like the Legend which was released just last year and has seen several updates released within the pass year to eliminate bugs and add features and at around $500 to $700 depending on the package you choose giving something like the $1600 Manticore a run for its money. Good Luck.

There is such a thing as too much, and tripping over unneeded features. Manufacturers rely on the mindset of people "needing" certain features to get people to spend more money. So the "needed" feature is withheld from the less expensive model and included in the more expensive. Plus some people are what I call "detector snobs" playing the "my detector is better than your detector" game, more controls equating to better in their minds. But no, a 600 will do just as well as an 800 and a 700 will do just as well as a 900 for a very large number of people. I kind of feel a pull to more concise control sets and simplicity myself. It's pissing in the wind though, as the fact is the 800 sold so well many dealers did not even need to stock the 600. At the time the features the offered were seen as such an incredible value compared to more expensive detectors that it still came across as the bargain machine.

People were simply answering the question posed. But I agree. I had to put a note up on the Garrett Forum to stop people trolling the models there, and I think I’ll do the same here. If people want to move on, fine, but let the people who want to use and enjoy White’s detectors do so here in peace. Thanks.

I had seen a vague reference that the antenna cable from the coil did not have to come all the way up to the RC to get a signal. I don't dive but, may want to detect the edge of fresh water streams, ponds and lakes. What I came up with will allow submerging the coil about 20" inches or so. It can be left in place for ground hunting and does not prevent quickly collapsing or taking apart the rods. So I bought a thin black RG174 coaxial cable to play with. I stripped the ends and used marine grade heatshrink to seal them back up. I made the length just long enough to extend past the end of the lower rod. Wire tied the lower end and just left the upper end loose in the lower rod. Two short clips show a testing using a penny off the side of a pond dock. I will need to do some more testing but the initial results look promising