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Tony

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Everything posted by Tony

  1. Perfect for me......just work out the best size and weight for your coil size in order to just submerge it. The one I had was bright yellow which made it very easy to see in the water.
  2. I used a rubber discus....they come in various sizes and the leading edges are streamlined so minimal resistance in the water. Just drill some holes and zip tie to the coil.
  3. Surely one of the many Minelab technicians at their computers would have been busted playing Call of Duty.
  4. And maybe, just maybe, someone, somewhere can legally “purchase” the V3i platform, along with all the codes and IP rights.....and take it further...much further? We can all hope, right 👍
  5. RIP Reg.....thanks to you, I got into hobby PI detectors about 20 years ago and your words of wisdom back then still help me now. Condolences to family and friends. Your legacy in the field of detecting will last forever.
  6. If you get stuck with the surgery, I can help. If possible, leave the red and black wires on the PCB (don’t desolder) unless you have someone to help hold these wires as you solder onto the small tabs. These wires can be used to connect to your new coil wires so leave them if you find it easier. You also don’t need to detach the control plugs from the PCB as I did on the picture. The gasket is tricky.....but I’ve done it a few times and no problems. Just make it is seated properly before you tighten any screws.....a small flat piece of plastic helps move it into place after the lid is placed on top. Get someone to keep pressure on the top lid as you seat the gasket and THEN secure the screws....just enough for the plastic tabs on top lid and bottom half to touch....no more than that ! I use silicone grease on the gasket as it helps the top lid to seat easier and slide over the gasket.....but the gasket can pop off easier too before the top lid is secure. You’ll work it out okay. Make sure the gasket isn’t pinched as you gently tighten the screws.....use that piece of plastic to slowly seat the gasket if does bunch up. A credit card is good to use. Goos luck Tony
  7. I’ve used them a few times......been good and saved some serious money !
  8. Steve Howard from Whites got back to me.......they’re not selling anything from the factory which is understandable I guess, considering the state of affairs.
  9. Me too......I think those boards will last 50 years if the rest of the quality is anything to go by 👍
  10. I wonder if Whites has any PCB’s for sale..... I’d grab another TDI BeachHunter board if the price was reasonable. I’m thinking is it worth emailing someone at White’s ?
  11. Imagine if you could follow the family line......and reunite it. I did this many years ago but the ring had a much later date on it.....1945 if I recall and quite specific names engraved. I tracked down the daughter of the rings owner (unfortunately had recently passed)......special moment for sure.
  12. You are absolutely correct.......plus I’m finally realising the right tool for the job is critical. I cant see myself ever being without the Excalibur.......but the TDI definitely has its place on the beach. HH to you as well Tony
  13. I took my Excalibur out yesterday water hunting to an area I thought might hold some loot.....I was rewarded with a very nice Platinum ring. The area was inundated with old bottlecaps and even though the Excal was nulling them out perfectly, it was hard going and required a good deal of patience. Because of this, I have decided to keep the TDIBH strictly for beach work as using a PI in this area would have made me quit in disgust. The detector has been reassembled back to the original Coil as I was planning on swapping out for a smaller coil for the water. I feel too much time would be wasted using a PI in this area (And most of the areas I hunt in the water) and I needed to cover a lot of sea floor and make the most of the tides. I feel I’m going to be a 90% VLF user for the water, based on iron and iron alloy junk plus mineralised ground is not a problem. I’ll keep the PI for the lower beach and hard pan when I do hit these areas.
  14. Here’s a photo of the Whites coil wire after desoldered from main board.. Should be able to replicate this with the Detech coil cable.....fairly typical mono coill setup where the Receive and Transmit are on the same centre wire. Just need to twist up enough outer braid for soldering up to the other wire (shown black in photo)
  15. I’m all set to hardwire......if I don’t hear back regarding the 3 spoke coil then the Detech 8” mono will be ordered. It should be a simple plug cutoff and then wire up.....one to the centre wire and the other to the outer shield braid.
  16. Definitely appreciate first hand experience 👍 Is this on the TDI detecor?
  17. SGD Are you hardwiring or fitting an in-line connector? I think flotation will be minimal plus I coat my coils in PlastiDip.....maybe even a solid skid plate of plexiglass glued to the coil bottom ?
  18. Looks like this will be my future coil on the TDI BeachHunter.......
  19. Thanks Rick for your reply. I just want to make sure that whatever I choose works well.....I don’t need 10uS in the rough saltwater....more likely closer to 20uS to keep my sanity. The Coiltek Platypus is out because they are no longer made. I’m considering the 8”Detech Mono....it is foam filled but being just 8” will be okay, plus I can run a rubber weight to keep it down. I feel the Detech will work optimally without any modification. I’m still waiting to hear from Eric to see if he has a suitable coil. So maybe some uncertainty with the Garrett 8” ? Appreciate the info Tony
  20. I’m down to 3 White’s and 1 Minelab......👍
  21. Rick Did you have to modify the Garrett Sea Hunter 8” coil on your other detectors? Thanks Tony
  22. Have you been cleaning out your shed again Ray 👍
  23. I managed to get a second lower half of the TDIBH / BeachHunter ID. I drilled a small hole in the clear plastic top of the battery compartment and ran the DC barrel connector lead directly from the detector PCB battery pin to my 4S1P battery pack. You could do this with the original lower half but I had a spare. This bypasses the regular setup. Just need a separate connector/lead which is very easy to make up. Now you can use much bigger battery packs but I’m okay with the 4S1P which gives me a good 7 hours. First photo is original lower half and second is the modified....it’s only a single neat hole to run the lead through. Third photo is power source !
  24. The VOLUME socket is just to the right of the SPEAKER socket. You are right.....the volume isn’t lacking on the TDIBH ! Not sure if the photo is clear enough.....took the photo indoors as it’s wet and gloomy outside.
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