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ColonelDan

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Posts posted by ColonelDan

  1. In a previous post of mine, I made the case for using 3 tones based on Low, Medium and High conductive targets; a system I routinely use in hunting our Florida beaches.  It's simple, effective and gives me the information I really need.

    The videos below however, make a strong case for 2 tones and the "Dig it All" approach when using the Equinox series detectors.   Why?  As you'll see in those videos, the tested targets span the VDI spectrum based on metallurgical composition, shape and size. Granted, these are nothing more than air tests which aren't affected by depth, moisture or ground mineralization but they at least provide some indication as to how a variety of targets range the VDI scale based on their individual characteristics.

    If using 2 tones, I would personally set the tone breaks at -9 to 0 using tone pitch 1 indicating probable junk and the second tone break at 1 thru 40 using tone pitch 25.

    If I were interested only in a more detailed target description, I would lean heavily toward the CTX 3030.  However, in the type of beach hunting I do, I favor the Multi IQ, faster processor, enhanced sensitivity and weight of the EQX over the CTX...just my personal preference or as I always say, "Just the view from my foxhole."


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsgspduZA_8


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7345qtsc7s&feature=youtu.be


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMHH5ynSwW0&feature=youtu.be

    • Like 2
  2. 17 minutes ago, dewcon4414 said:

    I don’t know that the Nox IS as affected like older model machines.   Here in Fl of course we don’t have nearly the minerals.  Like I said that accusation of sand in the cross arms doesn’t really affect the detector unless it moves separate from the detector.   

    Granted, our beaches are relatively low in mineralization where I normally hunt.  But since all beaches are different, my simple reasoning is this;  if sand isn’t supposed to be there, I want it outta there. ?

    • Like 3
  3. Deep 1,  I've been drilling numerous holes in my coil cover for years and, like you said, it works fine and the coil itself is still protected.

    After years of hunting the beaches, I found that with a solid coil cover, no matter how well you try and seal them, salt water and sand gets in there.  The real problem comes from the indisputable fact that once in there, the sand has no way to get out thus the problem.  After I drilled holes in the cover, the water flushes out the sand and I'm good to go.

    When I get home and remove the coil cover, I find there's only a few isolated grains of sand left...not nearly enough to cause any problems whatsoever.

    • Like 3
  4. 21 hours ago, Steve Herschbach said:

    This is not a rod I would use on the beach for the very reason you mention. These shafts use orings to snug the cam locks and sand in them from constant beach use would not be a good idea.

    Thanks....that's exactly what I thought of this design so I'll have to pass.  Now were I a land hunter and a backpacker...yes, by all means I'd have one.

  5. Steve,  That's a great modification and I just might be right behind you as customer #2 when and if that becomes available in the States. 

    The only real concern for my situation is how sand from our beaches might affect the operation of the telescoping shafts and the locks over time.  No matter how careful one is and how precautionary you think you've been, beach sand gets on and into everything.

    Thanks for the post...

    • Like 1
  6. On 10/4/2018 at 7:28 AM, Alluminati said:

    I agree with your view from the foxhole lol.

    The only slight tweak I might make is to lower the tone break for med/high from 19/20 to 18/19. This would just keep small silver coins (half dime etc.) and all the pennies in the high tone. Gives a bit more of a buffer for a sloppy swing etc.

     

    I can see the merit in adjusting the mid level zone from a high of 19 down to 18 with the high zone set at 19 and above instead of 20 and above.

    Good call Alluminati...I just might have to give that a shot.?

    • Like 2
  7. His initial comment was an indicator, for me at least, as to what this review would be;

    " do not try to open the detector control box. Having spent 15 minutes attempting to uncover my machine, I completely destroyed the housing."

    My question:  Why in the world would any user even want or need to open the control box?  Am I surprised that he destroyed the housing? No.  What am I missing here? 

    Just the confused view from my foxhole...?

    • Like 1
  8. On 10/11/2018 at 2:04 PM, Andy2640 said:

    "Just the view from my foxhole"...  Your view is a good one from that fox hole....and appreciated.  Does the gold you found vary on the VDI, As in skip from say a 12 to 14?  

    Yes, depending on soil/sand composition, depth and orientation of the target.

     I personally dig everything in that range.  Do I dig a lot of aluminum?  Yes, but I’d rather do that than pass up gold in an attempt to second guess myself.  

    Now if the tone and VDI jump around erratically, I can bet it’s a bottle cap. But that’s just my experience along our beaches where I do 99% of my detecting.

    Good luck...

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  9. Now this is just from my testing and experience on our Florida beaches...your mileage may vary as I always say.

    Gold, being  a mid level conductor, I've found ranges anywhere from 1 -18/19 on the Equinox.  Small chains have been detected at 1,2,and 3 while larger gold objects range higher depending on the K.  Of course the soil composition also impacts the VDI.  Having said all that, aluminum also rings up in the 1-19 range so you'll be digging junk too but that's the price we pay if we want to focus in on gold.

    Just the view from my foxhole...

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  10. 37 minutes ago, dewcon4414 said:

    Question...... how do they compare to say a pair of GOOD headphones....... like Pro Golds or black widows... something with a speaker?   Have you done an audio decibel reading using one of the simple apps/meters on line?   There are a lot of phones coming out now..... but its difficult to know what they might be capable of without some sort of comparison.

    The LS Pelso headphones use speakers and although I haven't done a formal decibel test, these are the only headphones I've used where I had to turn down the volume.

    I don't know about the Black Widows but I can tell you that I replaced my Gray Ghost Amphibians with the LS Pelso headphones.

  11. Just FYI.....On 8 Sep, I posted my review of the LS Pelso waterproof headphones for the Equinox...link below

    I waited to get my own however until the new version with the longer cable was delivered to Kellyco.  They came in this past week and I immediately picked up a set and tried them in my test garden and backyard.  I was honestly hearing more tones and more clearly than ever. The volume was much more than adequate. They fit over my hat better than others I've used and were very comfortable as I stated in that initial review.  

    The extended cable made a world of difference as they have a 24" straight section that connects to the control box and can be routed and attached under the detector shaft all the way to the shaft's back end where the coiled section begins....a big improvement!

    My first impression of these headphones was not only confirmed but enhanced...so much so that I picked up a second set for use on my CTX 3030!

    Kellyco now can supply these headphones for multiple detectors:

    Equinox:  https://www.kellycodetectors.com/catalog/ls-pelso-underwater-headphones-with-long-cable

    CTX 3030: https://www.kellycodetectors.com/catalog/underwater-headphones-compatible-with-ctx-3030

    Kruzer: https://www.kellycodetectors.com/catalog/underwater-headphones-kruzer

    Disclaimer:  I am not an employee of Kellyco nor am I under any obligation to Kellyco for these reviews.  My sole purpose is to share my experience with our metal detecting community.

    • Like 2
  12. On 10/7/2018 at 12:25 PM, flakmagnet said:

    Is someone willing to give a step by step on how to do 3-tone? Thanks, it sounds interesting.

     

    Until Steve tackles this in more detail, here is a YouTube link that outlines the process.  A good YouTube!

    Although he sets this up for his particular situation and preferences, the process is the same. 

    Instead of using his tone breaks/zones and tones, I used VDI/Target ID -9 to 0 as Zone 1 with tone 1; Zone 2, I set as VDI/Target ID 1-19 with tone 12 and Zones 20+ (all remaining zones) as Zone 3 assigning a common tone of 25 to all those remaining high zones.

     

    • Like 4
  13. 23 minutes ago, Sinclair said:

    It's always a matter of personal preference.

    The less tones you use, the more audible target information gets lost - meaning, you can't identify some iffy signals by ear, you'll always have to use the display, to see if the ID is stable for example. For me that's not practical when hunting at night. 20+ signals in Park1 10kHz on my beaches may be coins (lower 20s), but also can be bottletops (jumpy 25-30s).

     

    Long story short:

    I always advise people to learn their targets, decide how they want to separate them and set their machine accordingly.

     

    Nothing against your settings, ColonelDan - just a general observation / advice. I sadly often see people on youtube / forums using some doubious settings from other people without knowing or thinking, what they actually cause in their detecting environment.

    Sinclair,  I totally agree.  Settings should be personalized and adapted specifically for the environment in which you hunt.  My settings for central Florida beaches would not work as well in New England.  For that reason, I always say that this works for me and this is "Just the view from my foxhole."  If 3 tones works for others and they prefer it, so be it.  If they prefer 5 or 50 tones, so be it. 

    One size doesn't fit all in this hobby! 

    Soldier on...

    • Like 2
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