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TedinVT

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About TedinVT

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    Green Mountains

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  1. I could make my own in the time it takes to wade through all the contest rules & regs.
  2. Nice job! Came out looking good. Tnx for the photos & details Micro.
  3. Great job, John. As suspected, from the photos it looks like these headphones are throwaways once the battery is shot. At least there are some decent replacement headphones out there for reasonable prices when replacement time comes. Thanks for the photos!
  4. Pretty clever! Maybe a photo of how the cuff is attached / adapted to the triangular tripod shaft?
  5. Have you checked the user manual pages 40 and 41? You can download it via the Minelab web site. I would highly recommend reading it while you wait for your new Nox to arrive if you haven't already done so. The manual states Tracking GB is the default and recommended mode for the Gold Modes due to mineralization (page 41). Auto GB is typically used for the other modes and there's a small section on page 40 describing a method to try if Auto GB doesn't reduce noise in highly mineralized ground or high salt levels. So, it comes down to how mineralized or salty, in your case, your CC beach is. I'd definitely start out with Auto GB and see how the Nox performs. If your beaches are highly mineralized you may want to give Tracking GB a try. I hunt some Gulf of Mexico beaches in Auto GB, but they have very low to non-existent salt mineralization. Do as the manual states, use Beach 1 for the dry and the wet and Beach 2 in the saltwater. You may even try Park 1 in the high and dry sand. GL & HH
  6. Super day! Once again the “dig it all” axiom is proven.
  7. FWIW, I was detecting a park in early 2018 in the early days with my Nox. I had pinpointed a target and forgot to exit the pinpoint mode. I detected in pinpoint mode for about 20 minutes before realizing my error. All I got was noise and strange beeps. When I realized the error I exited pinpoint mode and went back over the same area and found coins I had missed while detecting in pinpoint mode. Years of using my AT Pro where you held down the pinpoint button to pinpoint and released the button to exit pinpoint mode was my problem. The AT Pro differs from the Nox where a pinpoint button push enters and another button push exits pinpoint mode. Bottom line, detecting in pinpoint mode cost me a lot of wasted detecting time and yielded no targets. Just sayin'.
  8. I agree, Peg. They're renourishing Anna Maria Island on the Gulf side starting in a few weeks. Millions of taxpayer dollars to pump sand onto the beach so it can wash away again in a few weeks to a few months or following one good storm. Repeat in 2 or 3 years. Sad.
  9. Note that the Minelab battery has 3 leads and the 26650 has 2 leads. The third wire may, possibly, be used for temperature sensing to protect the battery. My guess is it would be wise to purchase the replacement battery from Minelab and get the right number of leads and the connector already installed.
  10. Clever, Dew. Gotta Dew what ya gotta Dew to make it work! Sorry 😐 I received and installed the ear stiffener on the factory lower shaft. No problem with coil and lower shaft clearance so no mod needed. The coil bolt is plenty long enough so no issues there either. It was difficult to feed the coil bolt through all of the stiffener, shaft and coil ears. That took a few tries. I might try slightly beveling the end of the coil bolt if I take it out again. Other than that, the cost and shipping were both good. Wish it came in black though, but the red isn't objectionable.
  11. Following up on my previous comment and Dew's above. I emailed Don at Detecting Doodads and he said no glue is required, just slip the coil ear stiffener over the existing ears. My stiffener should be here 11/18. Some may have to glue if they have broken ears. I've also heard ABS type glue is the way to go, as Dew mentions, in that case.
  12. Anybody tried these yet? Looks like a good device. When installing over unbroken coil ears would the coil ear stiffener be glued to the top of the coil and to the ears or just dry fitted? If glued, what glue would be best for the 3D printed plastic?
  13. Same experience here. I hunt with a friend who also has an 800 and we've had no problems at 6 feet or less and when double checking each others targets. We do noise cancel. I also hunt with my brother who has an ATPro and we don't have problems.
  14. Helped find a friend's 14K gold band today. Solid 12 in Park 1. My 14K white gold band rings up a solid 11 in Park 1.
  15. Good preliminary test, Calabash. I didn't notice in the video if you had AM turned on. Reason for mentioning is I didn't hear any iron tone with the dime surrounded by square nails. I did some testing last week to see what F2 would do using coins, bottle caps and square nails with AM turned on and running through all F2 0-9 settings and saw changes from solid target tones to target tones with iron to all iron tones depending on the targets used. I tested in Park 1 with Recovery Speed of 3 for no real reason. I agree, there is definitely a trade off as the F2 settings are adjusted. Soil condition, target conditions and depth will influence test results and one should expect different setting requirements for different locations, etc. While I don't think there is a one size fits all F2 setting for all detect modes, targets and conditions I did find the higher F2 settings tended to accent the iron when the non-ferrous target was near rusty bottle caps or rusty square nails while lessening or eliminating the non-ferrous target tones. Translation: you could miss good targets in iron when running F2 at the high settings. In my local hunting conditions I found the F2 2 to F2 6 range produced the best results for relic and park type sites. I'd probably go with a 3 or 4 setting to start and make adjustments as needed at each location. Your results may / will vary. I've read the goal of the new F2 firmware was to help in identifying bottle caps so we don't waste time digging them. It works. I typically found bottle caps in the 14 to 18 TID range. Silver ring range. Here's what my testing produced using only a rusty bottle cap by itself: F2 0 to F2 3, TID=16, good non-ferrous tone, no iron tone F2 4, TID=16, non-ferrous tone breaking up with hint of iron tone F2 5, TID -5, almost no non-ferrous tone with strong iron grunt F2 6, TID -5, even less non-ferrous tone with strong iron grunt F2 7 to F2 9, TID -5, no non-ferrous tone, strong iron grunt
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