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TedinVT

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  1. Pretty clever! Maybe a photo of how the cuff is attached / adapted to the triangular tripod shaft?
  2. Have you checked the user manual pages 40 and 41? You can download it via the Minelab web site. I would highly recommend reading it while you wait for your new Nox to arrive if you haven't already done so. The manual states Tracking GB is the default and recommended mode for the Gold Modes due to mineralization (page 41). Auto GB is typically used for the other modes and there's a small section on page 40 describing a method to try if Auto GB doesn't reduce noise in highly mineralized ground or high salt levels. So, it comes down to how mineralized or salty, in your case, your CC beach is. I'd definitely start out with Auto GB and see how the Nox performs. If your beaches are highly mineralized you may want to give Tracking GB a try. I hunt some Gulf of Mexico beaches in Auto GB, but they have very low to non-existent salt mineralization. Do as the manual states, use Beach 1 for the dry and the wet and Beach 2 in the saltwater. You may even try Park 1 in the high and dry sand. GL & HH
  3. Super day! Once again the “dig it all” axiom is proven.
  4. FWIW, I was detecting a park in early 2018 in the early days with my Nox. I had pinpointed a target and forgot to exit the pinpoint mode. I detected in pinpoint mode for about 20 minutes before realizing my error. All I got was noise and strange beeps. When I realized the error I exited pinpoint mode and went back over the same area and found coins I had missed while detecting in pinpoint mode. Years of using my AT Pro where you held down the pinpoint button to pinpoint and released the button to exit pinpoint mode was my problem. The AT Pro differs from the Nox where a pinpoint button push enters and another button push exits pinpoint mode. Bottom line, detecting in pinpoint mode cost me a lot of wasted detecting time and yielded no targets. Just sayin'.
  5. I agree, Peg. They're renourishing Anna Maria Island on the Gulf side starting in a few weeks. Millions of taxpayer dollars to pump sand onto the beach so it can wash away again in a few weeks to a few months or following one good storm. Repeat in 2 or 3 years. Sad.
  6. Note that the Minelab battery has 3 leads and the 26650 has 2 leads. The third wire may, possibly, be used for temperature sensing to protect the battery. My guess is it would be wise to purchase the replacement battery from Minelab and get the right number of leads and the connector already installed.
  7. Clever, Dew. Gotta Dew what ya gotta Dew to make it work! Sorry 😐 I received and installed the ear stiffener on the factory lower shaft. No problem with coil and lower shaft clearance so no mod needed. The coil bolt is plenty long enough so no issues there either. It was difficult to feed the coil bolt through all of the stiffener, shaft and coil ears. That took a few tries. I might try slightly beveling the end of the coil bolt if I take it out again. Other than that, the cost and shipping were both good. Wish it came in black though, but the red isn't objectionable.
  8. Following up on my previous comment and Dew's above. I emailed Don at Detecting Doodads and he said no glue is required, just slip the coil ear stiffener over the existing ears. My stiffener should be here 11/18. Some may have to glue if they have broken ears. I've also heard ABS type glue is the way to go, as Dew mentions, in that case.
  9. Anybody tried these yet? Looks like a good device. When installing over unbroken coil ears would the coil ear stiffener be glued to the top of the coil and to the ears or just dry fitted? If glued, what glue would be best for the 3D printed plastic?
  10. Same experience here. I hunt with a friend who also has an 800 and we've had no problems at 6 feet or less and when double checking each others targets. We do noise cancel. I also hunt with my brother who has an ATPro and we don't have problems.
  11. Helped find a friend's 14K gold band today. Solid 12 in Park 1. My 14K white gold band rings up a solid 11 in Park 1.
  12. Freak, I agree with you on your technique for schools, parks, etc. I never use my Leshe shovel and only use the Lesch digging trowel. I can usually narrow the target to a 3” to 4” diameter area by swinging at 90 degree angles and using the Nox pinpointer at 90 degree angles. If there's any question about target location on deeper targets I shove the digging tool into the ground at an angle to make a cut and then insert my Garrett carrot in the cut and “lever” it left and right to narrow in on the target. I can usually dig a plug about the diameter of a baseball or big enough for my hand to extract the target. I use a small towel for piling extracted dirt which makes refilling the hole a quick job. The extraction site looks clean and untouched when I walk away. This is SOP for most park hunters. I avoid actively used sports fields, as can be determined by freshly limed field lines, and wait until that sports season has ended. I usually speak with parks and recreation people to get their blessing for detecting and explain the extraction method and usually get the green light to detect. I've never been harassed by anyone passing by, but if that happened I'd try to show them how I extract and clean up if they'll listen. Avoiding detecting parks on weekends when there are a lot of people visiting should minimize harassment from passers by. Schools are, obviously, best detected on weekends. I live in a rural state. Detecting in urban areas is probably more of a challenge.
  13. Tom's link: https://www.dankowskidetectors.com/discussions/read.php?2,166825,page=6 scan down the page to around Sept. 25 posting.
  14. YouTube video showing F2 from Slow n Low: I'm doubting F2 is going to do much of anything for iron that sounds off as iron in the first place (nails). It appears the value of F2 is in helping to differentiate targets containing iron that sound like good targets (crown caps) from actual good targets.
  15. Finally had a chance to try out the new firmware today in my yard where there is an abundance of old roofing nails. Tried FE and F2 both set at 6 and AM and Park 1 in nails and found no difference between the two. Tried raising F2 to 9 and still no difference. Rain is supposed to start very soon so more testing at some cellar hole sites will have to wait until tomorrow.
  16. Why the lower IB settings? Did you try the default F2 setting of 6? Were you in All Metal mode? Why not compare FE 6 to F2 6 settings?
  17. Some quick Iron Bias info from the updated manual to get started: Only available in Multi, Iron Bias FE and Iron Bias F2 profiles are independent (ie. choose one or the other), Iron Bias F2 is best used in All Metal mode, default setting for F2 is 6 (for 800 / 2 for 600) in all detect modes. Use a quick press of the Accept/Reject to toggle between either Iron Bias mode.
  18. Updated EQX manual is out. Download from Minelab site. English version 4901-0249-5-EN: FE / F2 settings on page 52.
  19. Great tip, Simon. Will give it a shot. You'd think there would be a simple firmware fix for this though.
  20. Hopefully, if this isn't a hoax, the update will also fix the flakey button pinpointing where the sound sometimes doesn't come on and requires turning pinpointing off then back on again before it works. Yes, I do pinpoint with the coil method, but there are instances where the button pinpointer helps.
  21. Just had to give Jamie the serial number of my Equinox and they sent the replacement shaft pieces. They are very aware that the first machines had a shaft problem. I have 2 friends who bought their Equinoxes at least 6 months after I bought mine and they do not have the wobbly shaft problem.
  22. I think many of us who received the early release of the Nox have had this problem, which Minelab service acknowledges. I had the best success in solving the wobbly shaft problem by using aluminum tape that has a sticky adhesive on one side. The “softer” tape materials loosened up after a while and the wobble came back. The aluminum tape is used for taping furnace ducts or for “temporary” body work on cars and trucks. I eventually ended up contacting Minelab (Jamie) and the early edition shaft parts were promptly replaced and the replacement parts don't wobble after a year of use. I bought a carbon fiber shaft for use in saltwater. I can't say enough about how great Minelab service in backing their products' warranty.
  23. Just had this problem. Twice in a row. Charging started out with usual slow blinking of LED then LED went out after about 1 hour. Checked contacts, they were clean, cleaned them anyway with eraser, reconnected charger and it started charging again as usual. About an hour later I walked by and saw LED blinking rapidly. Then it started blinking rapidly, but erratically and eventually returned to normal blinking patter for a few minutes. I tried 3 different iPad chargers, an iClever charging strip and both cables that came with the 800. This blinking sequence repeated for over 7 hours and never did indicate charge was complete. I disconnected charger overnight. Plugged it back in the next day and the LED finally lit solid green after an hour or two of crazy blinking. I recorded a video of the blinking sequence for emailing to Customer Service. I had used the detector for about 5 hours. Next time it happened was after 3 hours of detecting a couple of days later. Same LED blinking pattern repeating. Tried same chargers and cables. Finally reached full charge after 7 or 8 hours. Called Jamie, got RMA right away, sent coil & pod to PA service center. Emailed them the video. Service center said battery checked good. I figured it was a charging circuit problem because battery eventually fully charged both times. New pod should arrive today. Minelab service is the best. John & Dan in PA are tops.
  24. Great headphones, great sound. Have had my Pelsos over a year now and no complaints. Too bad they're out of stock at Kellyco where I purchased mine.
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