TedinVT

I agree with using Park 1 as many here have suggested.  Minelab suggests starting in Park 1 when you are getting to know your new Equinox.  Sticking with the default settings is also a good idea when getting started with your new machine as they wok well. 

You will probably be finding a lot of iron around the old home site and the constant low tone beeping (if you have All Metal mode - the horseshoe - turned on) will start to wear on you after a bit.  If that's the case, go into Settings and turn the Tone Volume for t1 down from 12 to 4 (or whatever works for you).  This will quiet the iron tones down a bit, possibly making them more tolerable when in All Metal mode while still letting you know there's iron under the coil.  In heavy iron environments I'll usually hunt with All Metal turned off the enable it to check a questionable target signal.

My personal preference is hunting in 5 tones (Target Tone setting) for both Park and both Field modes.  One thing that drove me a bit nutty when hunting in areas where zinc pennies could be found was the toggling between 19, 20 and 21 signals, which most zincs produce, which also causes the tone to toggle between a lower frequency for 19 and 20 and the next higher frequency for 21 as the default tone break is between 20 and 21.  I moved the t3 tone break from 20 to 22 in order to keep zincs from toggling between frequencies.  I did the same for quarters with the new firmware, moved the t4 tone break from 30 to 31.  I made these changes for both Park modes and both Field modes.

Don't get too carried away with the target depth scale on the detector.  Depth accuracy is going to vary with target size, shape and metal type.  Use the depth scale as a rough indication.  Jeff mentioned the pinpointing issues.  My pinpointer is dead on right under the coil knuckle and it's deadly accurate.  Don't forget to turn the pinpointer function off before you move on to the next target.  You usually only make that mistake once? 

GL &HH

Just a quick reminder for those of us living in areas where old man winter is bringing our detecting season to a close.  Page 8 in the Equinox manual has a “Battery maintenance” note indicating the lithium batteries should be charged every 3 or 4 months when the equipment is not being used for long periods of time in order to keep battery performance from declining.  Don't forget to charge the WM-08 module and the Bluetooth headphones as well.

Click for larger version....

Re my earlier post in this thread, for clarification.  I have only hunted fresh water and dry land in parks and playgrounds since updating to 1.75, using Park 1 in both the fresh water and on dry land.  Where I noticed the nickel / pop top readings being essentially the same was on the dry land (dirt & grass).  Same for copper pennies and clad dimes reading essentially the same.  I used to see pop tops run 13, 14, maybe 15 and nickels run 12, 13 with the old firmware.  This was enough to give a pretty good idea of what the target was.  Copper pennies typically ran 24, 25 depending on depth and condition while clad dimes used to read 25, 26, again depending on depth and condition.  Now it's a toss up, just dig it.  Just wanted to add this clarification for anyone trying to interpret my results while they hunt saltwater, saltwater beach dry or wet sand, etc.

I can live with this and will be sticking with 1.75 even though a couple of things in the update didn't go in a positive direction, IMHO.

I'm only about 10 hours into retuning my brain to the new firmware on my 800.  I wouldn't revert back to the old version.  I like most of what ML did, but there's still room for improvement.  I'm disappointed that the small nickel/pop top spread is gone and the copper penny/clad dime spread is also gone.  The weak/strong pinpoint “ghost” issue is better, but definitely not fixed.  The pinpointer is still super deadly accurate.  It's too bad there are only 50 display segments, but I knew that when I moved up from the ATPro's 100 segments which would probably make the nickel/pop top and copper penny/clad dime dig questions easier to answer.  Maybe a little more time with what appears to be a hotter machine with the new firmware will make it easier to discern those targets.

Stealth scoop.  Stealth.com. Bought the 7” one with the smaller holes in the back to trap the smaller targets.  Bought a replacement hoe handle at Home Depot for the handle for about $9 plus a few bucks for some spray spar varnish.  Did some minor belt sanding to fit the handle to the scoop.  Have used it in fresh & saltwater, dry & wet sand & small gravel.  Wouldn'trecommend using it (or any other scoop) in rocks.  It's holding up very well.

I'd remove or cover up the gun company sticker and go “plain wrapper”, making the case less of a target for theft.

I bought the Plugger CF shaft for two reasons.  First, to solve the wobbly stock shaft problem caused by the twist locks not able to tighten enough.  Second, two avoid the corrosion problem that saltwater can cause (actually, the corrosion problem would probably solve the wobbly shaft problem with time now that I think about it ? ).

I'd say the CF shaft is a little lighter than the stock aluminum shaft, but only slightly. Not enough to warrant spending the money for making the Nox lighter only.

Sept. 7 - weighed my 800 with 36” Plugger CF shaft = 2.8 lbs.    Minelab specs with stock shaft = 2.96 lbs.

I stumbled across a thread on TreasureNet that had some interesting content on waterproof headphones.  Be sure to read both pages 1 and 2.  Here's the link:  http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/equinox/584289-ml-waterproof-headphones-volume.html

Daniel,

Please share your opinion of the LS.Pelso phones when you have a working pair.  Did you notice where these phones are made?  Is the headband padded?  Many thanks for yor input.

Ted

That's good news about the possibility of DetectorPro working on the Amphibian volume, Chase.  I wonder if it's as simple as impedance matching issue (maximum transfer of power occurs when the source and load impedances are matched) or if they're going for a piezo or speaker major change.  I agree, either way I'm waiting for solid reviews before opening my wallet.  Gigmaster did a Tony E phones / Minelab WP phones for the Nox comparison in a very recent YT video and comments on the Minelab phones were enough to turn me off.  He wore them underwater as well as above.  The Tony E phones fared very well in his testing.

I'm anxiously awaiting the GG Amphibians for the Nox as well and just as interested in reviews for same.  Given that the Nox has it's own volume control, why would one be needed on the Amphibians for a Nox?  As Steve mentions, the Amphibians won't be any louder than the available max volume produced by the Nox to start with. Seems like adding a volume control just introduces another potential point of failure.

Emails to the GG manufacturer/dealer have only resulted in sparse responses with missed market introduction dates or no response at all.  My guess is the hangup is still the proprietary waterproof connector.  Not holding my breath, but still holding out for the GGs.

Donnyl, check out Gigmaster's latest YouTube vids if you want to see an Equinox under water.

I've had mine submerged in the FL Gulf of Mexico saltwater with no problems while using the wireless headphones other than the BT won't communicate with the wireless headphones if the control panel is too deep underwater.  I'm waiting for the waterproof wired headphones.

I have both an ATPro and the 800.  Love the ATPro, but I'm going over ground that I've pounded with the ATPro and finding stuff I missed with it now using the 800.  Deeper items mostly.  I bought the 800 to add saltwater detecting to the detecting mix.

800 likes:  Hot machine without a doubt.  Like the wireless phones, light weight and multiple detect modes in addition to features like volume control, back lit display, ability to select number of tones and tone break points, etc.  The list goes on.  It does everything except make coffee or open a beer.

800 dislikes:  Shaft wobble caused by very inadequate shaft locks that don't tighten down enough - common problem with the Equinoxes.  Minelab really needs to fix this problem as it gets worse with time, especially in the water.  The ATPro has 100 segments to cover the TDI range.  The Equinoxes only use 50 to cover the same TDI range.  Way too tight, there should have been a larger spread like the ATPro has.  Pinpointer does not always come on at full volume and occasionaly has to be turned off then back on again to use.

All that being said, the 800 is my go to machine.  I'd buy another and recommend it or the 600 hoping that newer production addresses some of the ills it exhibits.

Use the carrot with my Eqx 800 with no problems at all.

SittingElf,

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Lidar_Dataset_(United_States)

I am by no means an expert on Lidar or its use.  I started out by contacting my state's GIS department about a week ago when I first heard about Lidar.  The link above gives some clue as to which states have data available.  This may be a good place to begin your search for data.  Living in a small state does have a few advantages - small, easier to map & easier to have a one-on-one conversation with the experts.  That said, my state is continuing to build, update and improve its Lidar data resources.  It was fairly easy to learn which data set to use and then the “View In” choices were pretty straight forward.  Google Earth was one of them and offered the most of what a metal detectorist looks for.  ArcGIS Online viewer was another choice.  GE was a no brainer for me.  Once I figured this out (more like stumbled into it) I was viewing Lidar images using the data my state has available in a matter of minutes.

I didn't see OK listed among the states in the above link.  I'm not sure how old that list is and this is a rapidly expanding effort so the list may not be the last word.  Find out if your state has a GIS department and make contact if you can.  Hope this helps.

GL & HH

I've recently made the Lidar discovery.  To say it opens a whole new world would be a gross understatement.  The lidar data files can be integrated into Google Earth Pro where Lidar imagery can be turned on or off by clicking the box to the left of the file name.  Using GE allows measuring distances and pinpointing GPS coordinates.  I've been able to walk right to cellar holes with coordinates put into my GPS from GE. Amazing stuff!  Depending on your location and what Lidar data may be available you may need a program to convert las files to DEM files.

Photo shows square cellar hole and stone walls in top Lidar image and GE image with Lidar off.

Now I'm looking for a high tech way to automate digging targets.

It's probably always going to be a challenge to pinpoint when good targets and trash signals are tight together.  If you know the typical trash ID numbers (like 14 through 18 when you are coin shooting) try eliminating them in Settings to focus on the known good target IDs then re-scan the area before trying to pinpoint again.  This may get you in the ballpark.  I still like the 90 degree double check in these stituations.

Sweet!

My experience with my 800 is that the built in pinpointer is deadly accurate for most coin targets.  If I get a questionable response I'll visually mark the target area (based on peak sound) then rotate 90 degrees and find the center again.  Sometimes dragging the coil across the target area with the coil tight to the ground will help with peaking the sound response.  Having the coil as tight to the ground as possible is a must.  If you use the wiggle method for pinpointing, tighten up the wiggle as you zero in on the target.

My peeve with the EQX pinpointer is the inconsistent audio when activated and the need to turn the pinpointer off then back on again to get robust audio.  Sometimes lifting the coil (you should always lift the coil) and waiting a few seconds before turning the pinpoint function on helps with getting the normal pinpoint audio instead of the weak audio.  I hope Minelab fixes this occasional weak pinpoint audio with a firmware update.

Garrett carrot.  No issues with my 800.

Two possibilities for never having seen a negative number:

1. You don't have all metal mode enabled - the “horse shoe” button.  The “horse shoe” button enables / disables iron discrimination.  You may have iron discriminated out.

2. Your coil is not over iron.  Find a chunk of iron.  Play with the horse shoe button.

If you don't see negative numbers over iron after that you may have an equipment problem.

Build yourself a test garden in a “quiet” space in your yard and see if your results are more in the normal or expected range as compared to your park experiences.  Park 1 is always a good place to start.

Good for you, Buzzard!  The only way to learn the EQX is to get out into the trenches and learn the sounds.  You'll dig a lot of stuff, but a learning experience and skill comes with each target dug.

Hate to say it, but the answer to the sand in the coil cover question is to remove the coil cover after each outing and wash the coil and cover off.  I doubt if there's any way to 100% seal the coil cover dur to the way it is molded.  Not sure I'd recommend gluing the cover on due to the fact it's going to wear out one day and you'll need to get it off to replace it.  You sure do not want to detect without the coil cover unless you have lots of money for buying replacement coils.  Removing and washing only takes a minute or two and it's pretty easy.  I plan to order a spare coil cover when ML makes them available.  It's a wear item.  Betterthan wrecking a coil.

GL & HH

Interesting on the apparant difference in shaft diameters.....  I mic'd my 800 shafts and these are the measurements in my case:

Upper shaft O.D. = 0.870”,  I.D. = 0.790” where middle shaft connects

Middle shaft O.D. at necked down area = 0.782” where it mates with upper shaft

Middle shaft I.D. at coil end = 0.790” where it mates with coil

I wonder if any other owners who have shafts without the wobble issue might have measurements for comparison.  As I posted earlier in this discussion, I only see the wobble issue when detecting in the water at the upper shaft/middle shaft coupling and really don't see this wobble issue on dry land because there is no water torque.

Plugger solved my shaft wobble problem with a CF one piecer (very nice) and also solved any future corrosion issues with the same stroke.  Only comment was I needed to add a double wrap of electrical tape where the cuff seats on the upper shaft in two places as the cuff I.D. was a little larger than the CF shaft O.D. and I could feel some movement of the cuff when swinging.  Easy fix.  Lovin' my 800 and the CF shaft!

Park 1 for me with my 800.  I tried both Park 1 and Park 2 in a state park a week ago and Park 1 worked better than Park 2.  Park 2 was much noisier and I found no advantage for me over Park 1.  Your mileage may vary.  G L & HH