bklein

If a VLF, you already know the good target ID, wouldn’t discriminating out the other IDs accomplish the same thing? I guess if you have a pi it might work but it would also lock on real but unwanted targets. Likely be a latency issue plus you’d need to have a consistent swing and sense end of swing with a sensor. Perhaps go into detail how you think it would work.

I have seen an AQ that had been opened by hot wire perhaps and epoxied or JB Welded back together. I work for a company that makes communication systems for military aircraft. We coat the boards with a coating that allows them to survive 100% humidity testing in an environmental chamber. Fisher should do their best to keep water out with o-ring seals etc., coat the board, and keep the unit repairable.

Please explain the 3 12.5” column sections: Limited, Impulse AQ, Final Impulse AQ. Is this a factory chart?

I think it is epoxy sealed not filled. That’s what I was told plus the delay pot on mine would not be able to be moved if it was filled (if nut loose). The battery though could be filled. I’ll know for sure once the rest of the cells in mine die and I try and put lipoly’s in it.

Ugghhhj. Calling Fisher or First Texas is like calling my kids. “Leave a message…” Tried several people, no joy. I’ve decided to return mine for a look over. Really scared at what they may come back with for a repair cost, if they find something. No way it’s getting over 12” on a nickel.

I removed all that nasty coax-seal stuff. It was getting stuck to everything. Got on the headphones then of course my ear… I wrap every connection with new 3M electrical tape and it works well. Don’t go with an off brand tape though as it won’t be as pliable. I don’t hunt underwater with it, the control head rarely gets wet.

I called and talked with Ruby. She could not give a rough estimate. It would be $35 for them to look at it. They pay return shipping. I’ve been trying to decide on my own if mine is needing work - starting to think so. The brown packet that comes with it has a Quality Control checklist. It says it passed an air test at 16” on a nickel. Mine is more like 11”. That’s a big difference. I can twist knobs in all directions and the only thing that really changes is it gets worse if Sensitivity is set under 8. I think mine was more sensitive when I got it but unfortunately I didn’t take videos of it. I am also thinking the EMI cancellation is not working - but maybe it rarely works as my CTX is poor at it too at the same locations. What do you guys test on a nickel in air (13” coil) ? It would be cool to put together a chart listing all the popular detectors for an air test on a nickel.

Wow, great video- thanks I’ll give mine a test. What do you do to adapt the thin shaft of the new replacement pots? Does someone make 3D printed adapters? I made some using the brass tubing from hardware stores. Sloppy cuts in the top using a Dremel. Works but real hard to line up to reassemble.

Thanks OBN!, Newbie question - does it matter if ground/hot signals are reversed on either the RX or TX coil wires? I know I have the TX coil going to detector TX and same for RX wiring (and the detector works) but I could have phasing backwards somewhere. Also that add on circuit you have on yours - is it a tx boost, rx boost, or both? Wonder if any one’s tried one on the CTX. When I first got it (years ago) I had to back off on Sensitivity from 30 - now I’m running 30 all the time.

They told me they are still selling the Limited. The AQ has its own website and is not mentioned on Fishers site (which needs a redo anyway!). https://fisher-impulse.com/ They told me the warranty is non-transferable although it is written such that it could be interpreted otherwise. 35$ for them to look at the machine and they pay shipping on the return. No idea of the repair cost though as they’d have to toss it and give you a new control head. I’d like to know how they check the delay function without access to the sampling circuit…

There is an area like this at the Wedge. The homeowners built out on to the sand. Had been that way for years, now the powers that be bulldozed it up. I’d like to know if anyone had any luck hunting it. I tried for awhile with the AQ and was getting beaver tail pull tabs but nothing good and I lost my patience with it.

Yes his technique relied on the MEK From what I saw... He glued the elliptical dam piece first with it, then filled with epoxy.

Any clues where to try in the Mohave? Did you need a 4wd? i had tried a few areas in the past but with lesser detectors. Hope to try again but I don’t have the right vehicle...

Anyone had any luck adapting a new coil cable to an Excal coil now that we can’t get MEK? I’m wondering if I should go with just heat shrink or still try making a dam that covers it all up an inch or so. I just don’t think the epoxy will bond to the coil housing.

I used a section of 2” pvc pipe heat molded into a “U”, ground off the remaining ear remnants, and used epoxy putty plus pvc pipe glue to fixate it to the coil. It has worked for over a year. I also bought a 3D printed part that may work, it’s on a backup machine though. I suspect the material is not very strong.

Wow cool photos. Anyone have more of his work area? Wish I had met him sometime.

Curious if anyone knows the out of warranty repair cost for the AQ. As they probably just toss it (hermetically sealed) there likely is just one cost… I’m wondering how they test the delay settings function as I haven’t been able to see much difference and another user I talked with expressed the same opinion.

I went back out this weekend, with a charged battery. I was able to greatly reduce the swing tone with ATS at 10. I don’t know if this is due to the battery voltage or the fact that the beach is now really sanded in so less black sand concentrations. Didn’t find a thing.

Do you guys experience a big difference in target response for delay settings? I’m trying to see if mine has an issue as on small air targets I just don’t see much difference with delay variation. It might have a loose wire to it. I tried an earring back and a 5 grain gold nugget. When using it for EMI optimization I do notice changes as I rotate it but I can’t say if the resulting behavior is optimized or not in normal modes.

From my experience, Ruby and Art are the RA/service contacts, Dan is tech in repair dept. I’m still trying to talk with Art again to see if I have a warranty or not and if not what costs could be. See new thread on delay switch concerns.

Don’t call First Texas. Call Fisher. 915-225-0333. Felix no longer works there-I know some of you liked working with him. I’m thinking something may be wrong with the delay setting switch circuit. I’ve tried several small targets and don’t see much difference with it. Might have to do with the loose connection I found inside the housing. As I am the second owner it may be the case that mine is not covered by the warranty even though it is less than 2 years old. I’ll find out when they call me back. My unit was made April 2021.

Can it be taken apart or is it sealed up like the equinox? I’d be interested in buying or a trade perhaps.

Hey cartoons should be much easier to make now. Do they have new ones I’ve never seen? Did cartoons die as there is no “tv” anymore?

I think Texas, thus “First Texas”. The first 4 numbers (back of head unit) is the sn and build date.

I just talked with a tech named Daniel (x1404). He thought mine would be past the first 30 as was made in April 2021 and units started coming out in 2020. He asked around but could not confirm the first 30 EMI fault. He said they are still selling new units with 5 on the line right now. He suggested I send mine in just to get checked before the warranty expires next April