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SteelPhase

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About SteelPhase

  • Rank
    Contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Ocean Grove, Australia
  • Interests:
    Prospecting, Electronics
  • Gear Used:
    GPZ7000, GPX4500, Equinox 800, SteelPhase Enhancer, Eureka Gold, Numerous Experimental Detectors

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.steelphase.com.au
  • Facebook
    https://www.facebook.com/steelphase/
  • YouTube
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvyvOfX1_NDLI01YRQ9XxVw

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  1. Well done Mitchel. I knew you'd get something. Sorry I haven't been able to catch up with you but this week has been so busy with work and next week I am away. Good luck and I look forward to seeing more of the yellow from you. regards Pat
  2. Its a bit hard to say without looking at the circuit. Some audio has a floating outputs where none are grounded. You'll really need to look at the board and see if you can spot some sort of ground. It will probably be a wider track, connected to some of the negative pins on electros, go to the ground pin on some of the ic's etc.
  3. As long as you are enjoying yourself Mitchel. I have to admit that I'd probably be doing the same as you. Lets face it, with any adventure, the journey is often as good as the destination. Enjoy and good luck.
  4. Check the cases of the pots I have circled. Check and see if there is continuity between them. Often they are grounded - you may find its a multilayer board and the ground connections may be on an alternate layer. If they are connected then the odds are they are grounded. I'd just solder a wire to one of them if thats the case. Otherwise look for a common connection between things like the ground of the headphone socket, negative of electro caps etc.
  5. Rather than the battery, look on the circuit board for a ground plane of some sort. Only reason being is that some detectors dont use the negative of the battery as a ground. regards Pat
  6. Holy crap, you're all over the place. You have to decide if you are prospecting or sight seeing. You'll need at least a couple of days in each of those spots just to get your head around what is going on. Spend the first part of the day looking around and trying to understand the ground and what is going on. Then in the afternoon go for a swing and get the excitement out of your blood. Then the following day, slow down and concentrate on working the area properly. Gold has had millions of years to learn how to hide from us. Cant expect to find it in one day. Ok lecture over - looks like your having fun though. If I didn't have so many backorders to get through before the weekend, I'd join you (and maybe hobble you a little to slow you down lol). Good luck for todays adventure and I do hope you get on to some yellow. regards Pat
  7. Mitchel did send me a message but I wasnt on my computer all day so I missed it until it was too late. Bell is great for surfers (none take anything valuable near the water except for their boards) and generally tourists only get as far as the carpark . As for the gold - you'd be better off picking a spot and giving yourself at least a few days. The first day you'll be buzzing from spot to spot not really covering the ground properly. On the second day you will have gotten over the initial excitement and slowed down. The gold here isnt that easy to find and it takes time and patience (unless your that kid who tripped over a nugget in Bendigo).
  8. Glad you got it sorted. Hopefully it will get better as the coating dries. regards Pat
  9. The other thing to remember is that those coatings require over 24hrs to dry to get best conductivity. Try again tomorrow and see how it goes. regards Pat
  10. That may not give good contact. The best way is to hold the wire in place using a bit of tape with the bare end of the wire still showing. Then use the conductive paint to 'glue' the bare wire to the area you have coated. This will probably require a few applications. Then once thats done and dried, use hot glue over the top to provide mechanical support. Did you measure the conductivity of the coating once it was dry? How many ohms per inch?
  11. I'm not sure its a PI. Its a multi IQ machine so that tends to indicate treasure unit. CTX3030 replacement maybe?
  12. Just for those who like to DIY - you can also make your own conductive paint/adhesive. Mix PVA glue with graphite powder. I cant remember exact ratio's but basically you keep adding graphite until its only just still able to be brushed onto a surface. Paint some test strips and allow to dry. It can take quite a while. Then test with multimeter for conductivity. If its not conductive enough then add more graphite. You can also use the mixture for gluing wires onto a conductive surface. I've used this with success when making the shielding for coils.
  13. PI machines dont discriminate. Therefore you dig every target. High trash areas can be a nightmare but also very rewarding if you have the patience. VLF machines can discriminate the iron out but its a tradeoff for depth in mineralised ground. Basically ALL VLF machines will struggle with mineralised ground. The higher frequency machines are great for smaller gold but only if you pick your ground as I mentioned before and as geof_junk mentioned for sniping creeks etc. The guys using the Monster and Gold Bugs are doing well going over quartz piles, quartz reefs, tailings and old mullock heaps. They are finding the small gold the old timers missed.
  14. Hey Al I can only speak from my personal experience within the Victorian Goldfields. We have some of the most mineralised ground in the world. The honest truth (IMHO) is that most, if not all, VLF machines will struggle. The likes of the Minelab Goldmonster, Fisher Gold Bug etc will get gold but you have to pick your ground. White pipe clay, mullock heaps and quartz piles are the usual targets for those machines. They certainly don't punch as deep as a PI machine and are harder to work in our soil. But they are cheaper. As for PI machines - not all are created equal. Although the basic technology is the same, the way they handle mineralised ground, emi etc is very different. Basically you get what you pay for. For my way of thinking, for a beginner who wants an intermediate machine thats easy to use and a proven gold getter - a Minelab SDC2300 is the way to go. The Whites is an ok machine but I have yet to see one perform as well as the Minelab (down here anyway). I have only seen one in use down here and it has found gold but not much. The user was struggling to get the depths of the Minelab due to having to dumb it down to handle the mineralised ground. Now I do admit that I am a Minelab fan so I'm probably a little biased but if I am always open to other machines if they prove themselves as capable as the Minelabs. In other countries where soils aren't quite as hot, I'm sure I'd certainly have more of a choice. Disclaimer:: I am only speaking about how the machines work over here in AUS (especially down in Vic). So please all you guys based in the US, dont jump down my throat because another machine may work better over there. 😎😎 regards Pat
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