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phrunt

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Everything posted by phrunt

  1. That's pretty interesting, how long were you down at that depth? Good video, it will probably help a lot of people over the years... not really a fault I guess, more a consequence of the design.
  2. Outstanding Jim, if that's what White's are like, hats off to them... very rare indeed to get such service out of anyone. I understand your obvious devotion to them now.
  3. Employee's like that are what make a company successful. I'm going to have to own a Nokta product in the near future just because I want to be part it's success. I'd like that product to be PI gold machine ๐Ÿ™‚
  4. I don't mean to be picky Jim but there are laws around this, well at least in NZ there are, if a product is not as described, fit for purpose, or last a reasonable amount of time and be of acceptable quality it must be repaired, replaced or refunded by the manufacturer. Even if a unit is out of "manufacturer" warranty they must repair or replace it if it fails within an unreasonable amount of time. I have had a Dishwasher replaced a year out of warranty and they came out and installed the new one for me. A washing machine refunded in full 2 years after buying it due to a breakdown and the new replacement model not fitting in the space I had for it. I had a TV recalled with 2 months left of it's 3 year warranty as it was a topple risk and one fell of a kid somewhere and was able to get a full refund for it's purchase price and buy a newer bigger TV with the money and have a few hundred change as TV's dropped in price over the years. I imagine White's had little or no choice but to fix Chuck's machine and bring it up to acceptable quality. Here they'd even be paying the shipping for him.
  5. If you look closely in the video Steve posted you'll see the battery compartment and the control pod are separated. The wires coming thru have epoxy or something around them so a leak into the battery compartment is unlikely to flood the control pod. The most likely source of leaks is the speaker I guess.
  6. The battery compartment has rubber seals https://md-hunter.com/minelab-equinox-battery-replacement-teardown/
  7. Rubber seals act opposite to how you think, in heat they shrink (and can leak), in cold they expand.... so dunking into cold water is actually safer than dunking in hot water. A lot of water proof watches say you can use them in the sea or swimming pools but not in a Spa bath due to the warmer water. I have one of the very early Equinoxes long before most in the US could get their hands on them, mine spent 2 days and 2 nights underwater in my bath and it came out fine, no speaker problems either which is lucky as I only use the speaker. ๐Ÿ™‚ Even if there has been 100 flooded Noxes I am not concerned, compared to the hundreds of thousands of them likely sold that's not a bad failure rate. I'm sure most car manufacturers wish they could achieve those results ๐Ÿ™‚ Every product you buy will have a AFR (Annualized Failure Rate) that the manufacturer monitors, most products I know of in the IT industry a 1 to 5% failure rate was considered normal. Some products were up at 20%. Not everyone's Nox goes underwater but everyone may as well dunk their Nox overnight while under warranty just to make sure. People who get faults always speak the loudest, those with no issues rarely say a word.
  8. I just bought my first White's product, it arrived this week. A TRX pinpointer, I've only used Carrots up until this one... I wanted one less sensitive on the edges and more sensitive on the tip and a pinpointer was small enough shipping didn't require me to get a mortgage on my house... I felt that would work better for me as I get confused sometimes with my Carrot finding targets ๐Ÿ™‚ So far I like it a lot but it's sure not ground breaking, other than less sensitive on the edges I can't see anything better about it, and that's a personal thing as others may find that a disadvantage.... I wanted to resist an Aussie one as I've got too much of their stuff and I wanted a White's as I've never had a White's product. It seems very good quality. A nice tough feeling button on it. If the 24k came out 10 years ago we'd likely all have one. It was certainly released at the wrong time. In saying that I'd still like to own one, I have resisted so far as I just don't need it when it's so similar to what I've already got.. again not a ground breaker so not a necessary purchase, I only have so many arms.. I wish I was an octopus.... ๐Ÿ™‚ I would of liked to buy your MX Sport Chuck to try out a White's detector, It was one hell of a deal. I hope White's have the ability to come out with something good as even the brand loyal will eventually trickle away, I hope they can make White's great again ๐Ÿ™‚
  9. A52S New A52S Super Sluice box $324.95 A52SCS New A52S Classifier Screen System $84.95 A52SLK Leg Kit A52S & Mini Max $99.50 A52SRA New A52S Riffle board carpets, mats $54.95 You can buy it all seperately
  10. Looking forward to the video, great gold ๐Ÿ™‚ chunky bits. nice.
  11. I'll film it and show you.. seeing it happens almost every time so it won't be hard to capture. Busy day today so I'll do it tomorrow.
  12. I was trying to tune it to coins but it was already good on them, the ferrite was the key. ๐Ÿ™‚
  13. I wonder if 1.7.5 is going to be the only update, I'd love if they'd fix the pinpoint volume problem where it's very quiet and you have to either wait for it to come right or flick pinpoint mode off and on to get it to come right. Mine does it almost every time I use pinpoint mode.
  14. I'd love to go to a place like that. I'd roam around there for weeks trying to find one and not give up until I do.. ๐Ÿ™‚ The tent sites there are pretty reasonable prices.
  15. They look really good, well done... I prefer a wider scraper on my picks, you may want to consider going wider on the next model ๐Ÿ™‚
  16. Well Pimento, I knew you'd come up with the goods, you were 100% correct, A medium size ferrite is what I needed, after an hour of fiddling using a ferrite choke and a hot rock both come up as an ID of 3 on my original T2 and were coming up in the high 90's on this T2 Classic I solved the problem. It ended up being the VR1 pot that fixed it up, the other VR2 pot seems more fine tuning, the VR1 pot does the dramatic changes. For some reason at the start I only wanted to fiddle with the VR2 pot, mostly I guess because it was in a very different position to my other T2 where as the VR1 looked very similar. It's only when I decided to move the VR1 I was able to solve it. Here is the ferrite choke and hot rock I used. The ground balance numbers now in my front yard ground are identical to my original T2, the Hot rock and Ferrite are now showing an ID of 3 and doing a boing hotrock noise like on my original T2 and it's performing much better, ID's are far more stable on my deep burried test coins. It's problem is solved. Now I know how to do it I could do it in 5 minutes to any T2. It's very easy when you've worked out how to do it. I did it live too, T2 turned on and kept adjusting until they come right, waving the ferrite in front of the coil and doing slight turns until it came good. While it was open I also put another coat of my graphite EMI paint on it, can never have too many coats of that stuff ๐Ÿ™‚ Photo before and after with the EMI paint, it ends up looking a lot neater when it dries, it loses the sheen and goes dull black like the original paint. I also added a bit more tape to hold the exposed wire against the casing and painted it on, the paint acts like glue. The green tape is mine. This is fresh paint on it, once it dries it looks much neater. All done, a fixed up T2 ๐Ÿ™‚ Pretty happy about that, now I don't have a T2 shaft for my QED though. ---Update: Tested in a location I struggled with the other day due to the hotrocks, even in Disc mode with the disc set at 40 they were annoying as they were reading up in the 90's, now I can set my disc at 5 and knock them out. In all metal they're coming up as Rock like they're meant to with the boing sound. All is well now. Very happy.
  17. Well for the fun of it I'll mark their current locations then copy their locations off my other T2, then compare ground balance results, and manually tweak it until the ground balance results are the same. Might work, if not I can set it back how it was.... no big deal. Looks like I'll just use it's shaft for my QED like I originally planned ๐Ÿ™‚ I found an Italian website that I translated that showed someone was able to adjust theirs by copying a photo, I still have hope ๐Ÿ™‚ https://metaldetectoritalia.forumfree.it/?t=68480956 After a lot of fiddling and going outside to run over test targets in the ground I've improved it a bit and it's ground balancing a little closer to the numbers of the other T2, it's ferrite is off badly still, on my other T2 a ferrite choke reads as a solid 3, on this one a 97 so something is way off. Coins are coming up with the correct ID's, so are nails, I can disc them out no problems but some hotrocks are coming up in the 90's where as on my other T2 they come up in the Rock range under 10. This isn't going to be easy. I have only adjusted one of the two pots, maybe I need to do both but that makes even more combinations to mess with ๐Ÿ™‚
  18. I'm kinda hoping you can help on this one, you seem very clued on and I keep an eye out for your posts. ๐Ÿ™‚
  19. Well, I now know why the person sold me their T2 classic at a killer price, for some reason they've messed with the trim potentiometers on the PCB. One of which seems off, If you recall in a previous post I said it ground balances higher numbers on the same soil to my original T2. I thought this was really weird. After popping it open and doing a bit of research it seems people tried to adjust these to get better performance. The guy I bought my "bargain" T2 classic off admitted to messing with it but the mistake he made is not knowing the original position... he didn't mark it or take a photo or anything.. crazy mistake. These pots wouldn't exist if every T2 was the same so clearly they have to adjust them at the factory for each detector to calibrate it due to variances in components. There has to be a baseline, something waved in front of the coil in the factory to give it a default GB position. I've circled on this photo of a T2 circuit board the trim pots I'm talking about, One is marked VR1 and the other VR2. I am guessing one is for ground phase adjustment and the other discrimination. The Target ID numbers are spot on so I am guessing he messed with the ground phase.... I now need to work out the original position of the ground phase. I am planning on copying the position of the incorrectly positioned one in comparison to my older T2 and see if that works tomorrow..... It's too dark outside now to test. Failing that I'll have to mark a spot in the ground outside, ground balance the working T2 and gradually adjust the pot on this one until I get the same ground balance numbers I guess. Time consuming process. After my querying this and working out something is wrong with the GB he has admitted playing with a Pot and offered for me to send it back and he'll give me a refund but then I lose the international shipping money and the fun of trying to fix it ๐Ÿ™‚ If anyone has any information on how to do so and which Pot needs adjusted for ground balance that would be gratefully appreciated. I'm still puzzled why someone would mess with a pot and not mark the original position And no, sending it to First Texas for repairs isn't viable, shipping to USA would cost more than what I paid for it I'll take a photo of my actual board tomorrow in daylight if it helps although I doubt it will, they'll possibly be slightly different positions. Funny thing is I can switch it on and use it fine in my soils here, I don't need to ground balance it at all, I can pump the coil above the ground and all is OK, no ground feedback going up or down without doing a Fast Grab, it's completely silent but I just don't like the idea of something being wrong with it and it defaults in GB 90 which is the worst ground it can handle so I am guessing I'm losing depth because of the GB not working properly.
  20. Home sites can be ok, but I prefer spots where large amounts of people gathered, showgrounds, horse racing tracks, sports grounds, places with outdoor concerts, old churches... things like that. It's a numbers game for me... more people = more lost goodies. Welcome to the hobby and the forum ๐Ÿ™‚
  21. Hi Westy, Welcome to the forum, Hunting parks can be a lot of fun, I primarily look for gold but I also really enjoy hunting for old coins and you never know, some jewellery may make it into the mix. The Nox is outstanding for that. It may lose depth in your gold country soil that's for sure but you never know, nuggets can and often are near the surface... especially if you find some good bedrock or even creeks. You may end up needing to get yourself a PI of some form to handle the WA soils to look for gold, either way.. once you've got the fever.......
  22. I wish I was there to help you, some of my best coin hunting has been done at night I'd be pulling an all nighter to get it all before it's too late ๐Ÿ™‚
  23. Well, I've ordered a Detect-Ed Nox Shaft and some of these coil saver washers now. My Nox deserves a treat, it's been used and abused lately.
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