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  1. Yes Jim, a toggle switch would do it.
  2. I am afraid to do the high gain mod, I run a 25 inch and 19 inch NF coil on my SL. Looking to get a second as back up.
  3. Jim, Thanks for clarifying , that pic makes it much easier to understand.
  4. There seems to be much interest still on the TDI-SL mods that our friend Reginald Sniff made. I often find old emails in my junk box from people trying to get the mods. I apologize for not replying as I find them late and often busy with day chores. I will share what I still have left from my conversations with Reg many years ago. Most were over the phone as he had difficulty typing on the keyboard. I took notes and why I have the last picture with a summary of the three mods. Correspondence Reg, Thanks for the picture. I do have a few questions regarding my early model SL. 1- you had mentioned in another thread about doing something also with D20 and D21. We spoke only on changing C20, C21 and removing C56. What is the purpose of the D20,21 Mod? 2- Are C20,21 Polarized? what is the direction of flow ? ( thinking about building a board with a toggle switch to change from OEM to modified.} just in case the mod has an effect on my using my BIG coil. 3. If I did a board would the cables running from the capacitor board to the detector board need to be shielded? I just ordered the Reidman battery. Thanks Gilbert EMAIL sent by Reg in response: I mentioned mods added in 2015 to the SL to correct a problem in Australia. The mods to correct that problem included D20 and D21.. The D20 and D21 were part of that mod as was C56. You can remove D20 and short out D21 with a simple jumper to complete the Aussie mods. This will smooth out the ground balancing a little. If you use the proper caps, C20 and C21 are not polarized. Do not use polarized caps. I don't recommend a board to be added. Just tweak the Delay a little if the cap mod increases the sensitivity too much. On the latest pic I sent you, you will see an arrow pointing to C42. Adding a jumper across this cap will increase the gain and make very weak signals more reliable. Adding a jumper is easy. Simply look for two test points TP2 and TP31. They are near C42. Simply add a jumper from one test point to the other jumpers C42 and takes care of the problem. C42 and R75 are a high pass filter that isn't needed and causes problems. Eric added them when he had a drift problem and thought they would help. The drift was coming from some place else he later found out. Reg ( caps being removed are C20 &21, .47uf and will be replaced with .22uf. Use 50v Panasonic, or Rubicon Stacked Metal Film Polyester type ) from another post by Reg Picture sent by Reg My Summary of all three TDI-SL REG mods Gilbert
  5. Hello everyone, I have received many emails about the REG mods and responded to them. I finally spoke to Reg by phone and he is OK with me Posting the mods on this forum. He just wants me to send the info back to him to revise and make sure everything is OK. I am also glad he is still doing well. We also spoke about Whites and the situation at the company and how some of us are brand loyal and hope to see improvements. This way it will be easier as some times I delay email responses. Hope to post soon with Steve's permission of course. Gilbert
  6. I wrote Reg an email, hope to hear back. G
  7. I spoke with Reg many times about making changes to my TDI-SL We also exchanged many emails, I do still have them. He describes the changes and purpose and also included images of the circuit board and locations. Anyone interested can shoot me an email and I will forward. I can also copy them and post them here but would like to know if Reg is OK with it first. Gilbert gflores71@hotmail.com
  8. I have been using a 25" Mono NF Advantage coil on my SL and runs stable with 10us and full gain. Very few times I get unstable operation and it is related to close by storms that also affect my VLF units. I did do a carbon fiber mod just in case. Gilbert
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