parkgt

1 hour ago, Brad Plohman said:

Update.

The WS6 drained down overnight and shut off by morning. I recharged it during the day and when I got home I turned on my remote first, selected the wireless phone option and got the message to hold down the (-) on the WS6. I held it down for a good 8-10 seconds until it indicated it was successfully paired, and it then operated correctly as slave. It turns off and on with the remote now and functions as it should.

I'm not sure exactly what I did to cause it to lock up but it appears to be resolved.

Thanks for posting!  It worked for me following your procedure.

Same thing has occurred with mine.  Guess I will wait it out also.   Please post how it goes after restarting.  

I thought things would be fine starting back up.  When I selected the startup audio selection it said something like, hold the "headphone button" when starting up.  That seems a little cryptic since there is no button labeled headphone.  May have meant the power button on the puck, but it wasn't obvious to me.

The equally important question is which program and settings are the best starting point.

Earbuds from the puck is the only way I have ever used a Deus in the last 8 years.  Did the LL Bluetooth earbuds with a EQ 800 some years back, but it is hard to find true low latency earbuds.  Had to order them straight from the manufacturer in China.

Earbuds are great in the summer and even better in the winter under a stocking cap and hood if needed.

9 hours ago, Jeff McClendon said:

I didn’t mind the actual Mi-6 depth and sensitivity. It just isn’t as deep as the Tek-Point PI.

I did mind all of the pairing problems my Mi-6 had and just got tired of dealing with it.

If XP updates the pairing software I might consider owning one again if I keep my Deus 2.

The second day I had mine I had pairing issues. After deleting and redoing it I haven't had another issue with pairing.  May be luck of the draw, hope I haven't jinxed myself say that. 

My only wish is that one could get vibration while paired.

1 hour ago, Jeff McClendon said:

It matters to people like me too that recover targets in high iron mineralization on turf. 12 kHz pinpointers are great, but they don’t go as deep as the F-Pulse/Tek-Point in that mineralization. I can regularly count on 4+” depth on coin sized target with my Tek-Points. My Garrett Carrot and former Mi-6 struggled to do 3”

Fair point; then it is not working well for you.  For many others it works well and it probably doesn't matter.

If the MI-6 works well why does it matter?

6 hours ago, Jeff McClendon said:

I tried the clamp idea years ago but the clamp kept hitting me or my finds pouch during swings.

Yes, that could be a issue depending on how one sweeps their coil and what they have on their belt.

I use a light weight molle belt with slots all the way around.  My finds pouch is far enough around my side that it doesn't interfere with my motion.

Many ways to improve on the XP oversight.

With Deus1 I found the stand legs to be useless, same for the Deus 2.

A easy inexpensive solution that works well for me is to use a modified spring clamp.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002244Z/?coliid=IJ6D378XODYU3&colid=1IMEAO7UQIWLQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Cutting the pad arms off and shorter allows the clamp to spread farther improving stability. It goes on or off in seconds.

6 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

Program 1, General, and the 3 water programs, Diving, Beach 1 and 2. All 3 use Conductive soil subtraction, here is an excerpt from XP:

F350Platinum do you have any field use of them that demonstrated that they were better in wet soil?  So far I haven't run across any testing reports or video of various programs in wet soil.

Are there base programs and/or settings that are considered better for wet mild soil for general detecting?

1 hour ago, Jeff McClendon said:

I just look at the mineralization meter at the bottom left of the Deus 2 remote display. 3 to 5 bars is moderate mineralization. Anything above that is going to cause some issues unless I do a good ground balance.

So at 3 to 5 on the what GB numbers do you get?

2 hours ago, JCR said:

The Ground Balance(phase) number tells of the soil type, not really how mineralized it is. But yes, a good GB will always help the detector run smoother & give more accurate TIDs especially if minerals are present.

Page 21 of the manual calls the upper window on the right the "Ground Mineralization Index"  How is that not an indication of how mineralized the soil is?    It doesn't say anything about telling the "soil type."

People often mention that their soil is either "Hot" or "Mild".  What GB numbers does one consider 'Hot" and conversely what numbers indicate 'Mild" soil?

4 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

I'd only give those settings out for experienced D2 folks that can change them to suit, yeah, it's going to find everything, but you get a choice. king thing on the top left?

I like and have used relic quite a bit.   I would like to know what settings you find of benefit?

13 minutes ago, Carolina said:

 On another note, has anyone seen a clear cover for the WS6 master ?

I had an old unused piece of IPad/iPhone screen protector laying around.  I just cut it the size of the screen area of the puck and stuck it on.  It has stayed well and protected the screen area; I know because there is one faint scratch in.  I can make many more out of a single cheap iPad screen protector.

16 hours ago, Cheddar said:

would be nice to had a clue if you were digging a half or quarter. i know other machines have a significant gap in these coins.

Why, do you only dig halfs and leave the quarters?

16 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

I'm thinking that this might be "good enough" if brought all the way up to the top shaft inside. 🤔 Might try that. I did get the SteveG shaft with the holes for the wire, but they are still good for fast filling the tube when immersed. 👍

I tried one version that I brought all the way up the shaft.  For what ever reason that one didn't transmit the signal well.  I don't know whether the handle and metal from the shaft lock interfered. 

Also I couldn't collapse the shaft very far together without a lot of force bunching up the cable badly.  If you don't care about  collapsing the shafts together you might try stopping just below the upper shaft lock. 

17 hours ago, CPT_GhostLight said:

All great ideas! I'm thinking of using Greg's idea of running the wire up the lower shaft for a semi permanent installation and Jed's idea of using the velcro wire ties on the coil to be able to clean the coil cover and to switch coils when I get the new 9.5"x5" coil. 😎

Now that I know it works I will also switch to the velcro wraps.  I have some laying around somewhere.

23 minutes ago, Jed in NC said:

Does the signal travel on the center conductor or the shield, or both? Just curious if you removed the shield on both ends under the heat shrink. Super great idea!

I removed 1" of shielding from both ends.  I don't know if more or less would make a difference in results.

It is also possible to charge the coil without removing the cable ties at the bottom end on the coil.

Just be sure to get things positioned far enough away from the charging clamp area.

I had seen a vague reference that the antenna cable from the coil did not have to come all the way up to the RC to get a signal.  I don't dive but, may want to detect the edge of fresh water streams, ponds and lakes.  What I came up with will allow submerging the coil about 20" inches or so.   It can be left in place for ground hunting and does not prevent quickly collapsing or taking apart the rods.

So I bought a thin black RG174 coaxial cable to play with.  I stripped the ends and used marine grade heatshrink to seal them back up.

I made the length just long enough to extend past the end of the lower rod.  Wire tied the lower end and just left the upper end loose in the lower rod.

Two short clips show a testing using a penny off the side of a pond dock.    I will need to do some more testing but the initial results look promising

12 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

 

What it did was give me phantom high tones, many times a 99, and there wasn't anything but iron there if anything at all. It did indeed also make the Deus more bump sensitive.

 

 

Interesting, I have not encountered either of those problems.  I haven't been in stubble or a lot of iron though.

Although I won't use it routinely for general searching, there are times that I may want to see if anything is a little further down.

2 hours ago, Ogliuga said:

I did many depth tests with D2 and the ground stabilizer set on 1 is very important to increase depth. My custom program for mineralized soils has ground stabilizer set on 1 and also  another custom program for mild soils.

At what reading do you consider the soil to be mineralized?

15 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

Here's a video on the subject, but that's an interesting thought. 👍

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=z2o0sCHfsPs

Thanks for the link.  There seems to be very little written about this setting.  I don't recall any videos about it and no tests showing it's effect. 

I will have to do some more experimenting on my own to try to better understand what result are gotten by lowering it and if it interacts with any other settings.

If others have anything to add please chime in.

Only had my D2 for about 2 weeks after swinging the D1 for about 7 years.

Today I was out testing settings on a country lot (in western AR) that had a house back in the early 1900s, aerials show it was not standing in 1957.  A few Wheats and a IH have been found along, a very ornate broach and a bridle buckle that may be CW vintage.  I wasn't getting many good signals after an hour and a half and had only been digging junk.

I got to wondering about what depth I was getting with the different custom programs I had set up so I buried a clad Dime about 10 inches deep.  None of my custom programs would give a response.  I was using the Silver Slayer,  a modified Park.  DHC 6.8, a DHC notched to 40 and a couple of others.  All with Silencer at 1, Iron at 1 or 0, Sensitvity in the high 90s  Reactivity .5 to 1.  The ground grab was consistently at 78.

I was very baffled by this so I thought what other setting could I adjust.  It then dawned on me that I had never adjusted Ground Stability.  So I went from 2 down to 1.  The Silver Slayer program rang out loud and clear.  The DHC got it but not as cleanly, Relic barely, and a modified Park not at all.

The ID was down in the 50s which concerned me, no adjustment to the notching brought it back into the 80s or above.  When notching the DHC to 80 it disappeared completely.

I decided to dig it up and try a shallower depth to try to learn more.  When I pulled the plug and got the MI-6 out I discovered  that there were two old nails in the hole.

I reburied the Dime about 5" deep and it rang up in the low 90s.  Once again, the SS program rang out the best of my custom programs considering my settings. At that point I called it a day.

Makes me wonder wonder what i missed with Ground Stability at the default of 2.

Any thought about this experience would be appreciated?