CliveHamy

Many thanks all.

I thought I had a coil problem recently, so I did a factory reset on my NOX 800. Anyone know, does it take it back to the oldest software version that it was originally shipped with, or does it go back to the latest current software version that I had downloaded? It would be nice not to dig out the old computer I used to download the latest version again. Cheers Clive

In the UK for the Nox 600/800 we have a PWR-NOX back up storage (from RB Innovations) it clips under the arm rest and you use the NOX USB charging cable to connect to the NOX. It basically doubles your detecting time which is useful when you are on a weekender and don't have any mains charging capability. If the NOX600/800 uses the same voltage as the Manticore (which I see in this thread it does) then that will do the job. No doubt the provider does one for the Manticore by now. Here's a link to Crawfords the Minelab distributer in the UK. RNB Pwr-Nox USB Power Pack for Metal Detectors

"The NOX also has superb accuracy both digital and audio--to help you sort though the aluminum" Hi Clive, could you summarise how one can sort through the aluminium ? I find that alu foil and can slaw is anywhere between 2 and 24, whilst whole can are 24 on my NOX (Field 2,) It gives a good all round signal (but does not sound the same as coins or rings but I can't describe the difference. Your tips on this would be much appreciated. Cheers Clive H.

I've had an old Garret pin-pointer until it started to go unstable, then I bought an F-Pulse which turned out to be a complete nightmare, unstable, hard to use "tone - function selection" menu, finally locked up and would not reset, then I got the Profind-35 which turned out to be brilliant. Simple to use, separate + & - buttons to change the sensitivity, very stable, even the speaker opening on the reverse was useful cause I could mute it with my finger, and the Iron tone function that I thought would be pointless (as if you get that close to an object you may well as dig it out) was useful in archaeological situations to quickly confirm if finds were Iron. So I think it is a lottery whatever model that you get a good un.

Good point. It is easy for the top md experts to disparage the simpler entry level machines. They forget that to the entry level newbies, often short of cash, confronting a new complex hobby, a simple to use, high value for money, great performance detector like the Vanquish is ideal. These "shortcomings" are advantages. Beginners have more chance of gaining confidence and learning the hobby. They can (if they have the money) then trade up for the fancier machines. In the past the Garrett ACE machines were the affordable go to's for the beginner. Now the Vanquish, with same pick up and use simplicity, but with the powerful Equinox Multi-IQ engine seems to have taken over that market segment. ML got the product and the market pitch just right. I've taught over 60 archaeological students completely new to detecting to be effective with the vanquish within 45 minutes of practise and coaching. The bonus is that the Vanquish signals are very similar to my NOX 800, so I can easily check out what the students have detected. In addition I'm finding in my MD club that many detectorists with over 20 years experience, who did not have the cash to buy the expert Equinoxs, Deus, CTZ3030 etc, have bought the Vanquish and are very successful in finding coins and artefacts. Their recent finds include medieval hammered and Roman coins.

Hi Steve, what's your (or anyone else's) view on the mineralization levels in England, especially the southwest where we have red soil? I've not got access to someone with those machines that can measure it. When I ground balance here the numbers are generally around 35 to 48 on my Nox 800, can I read anything into that? I'm trying to understand how mineralised my area is to help me decide whether it is worthwhile buying the Monty. i.e. if it counts as highly mineralised, its probably not worth the investment for me. Low mineralization and it may be worth the risk.

I have the Nox 800, I prefer to use Field 2 with the horseshoe mode on so I can hear everything. Some deep coins and coins on edge give less than ideal signals. (Also, I've read on the forum somewhere that the Iron bias (possibly F2) works better with horseshoe mode on) After a while if I get tied of hearing everything and only want to dig clean consistent signals then I'll turn the horseshoe off - but I know I'll be missing things.

Hi Steve, thanks for that. You did not mention what was showing on the 2-D display for the coins. I assume it was just mapping the audio you were hearing? Was everything along the central line, or where some of the high tones and grunts shown off the axis? Cheers Clive

Hi folks, first I'd like to say thanks to Steve H., Chase, Phrunt, CJC, Strike and many others that have been contributing over the years. I have been following the Nox and now the Manticore forums since early 2018 and your advice has been brilliant in helping me to get the best out of the NOX 800. I appreciate that the answer to the Topic I've raised depends a lot on ones detecting environment, experience levels, funding and objectives. In my case I'm a NOX 800 user in the Southwest of England primarily interested in discovering artefacts in the rural Devon countryside. I have two roles: one as a hobbyist where time on Club digs and my own permissions is limited, so I want to ignore Iron (BOAT - Bit's off a tractor) and find interesting stuff in the limited time. The Romans did not have a massive presence, and the local British tribe the Dumnoni did not have coins until the Saxons took over in about 650AD, so our fields are quiet with the occasional hammered coins, buckles, horse brasses etc. (My default setting is Field2, sensitivity 22-24, All metal, rest standard, no discrimination) My second role in retirement is as an archaeologist teaching students to use MD in archaeological excavations, checking excavations and spoil heaps. Here I have to change my hobbyist approach and discover all metallic objects as they are all indicative of human activity. I find the Nox 800 excellent but as a hobbyist I wish I did not dig so much BOAT! I've been following the Monticore forum closely and nearly bought one earlier in the year, the idea of being able to determine (via the 2-d display and enhanced audio) whether an object is likely to be Iron before digging particularly appeals to me in my hobbyist role. However the price, and the less than glowing reports (depth, ID and software update issues) makes me wonder whether the Manticore provides any extra depth or Identification compared to my trusty Nox 800. I appreciate that it takes time to learn and get the best out of a new machine and that you folks have only just started on the journey, but my question for you all is:- Does the Manticore really provide any extra depth and Identification compared to the Nox800? (All the other fancy features are secondary) Many thanks in advance Cheers Clive H.

Thanks to all those regular contributors who’ve help me master the Nox, I’m hoping to understand the Montisarous better. Some questions re 2d trace, 1) the horizontal line is conductance, how does it compare to the NOX VDi readings? I assume it starts at 0 and goes to 99, is that equivalent to the Nox 0 and 40? Or Nox -10 to 40? I’m assuming the former as the ferrous negative numbers are plotted on the vertical scale. 2) I get that the vertical scale is for ferrous cantered around a zero line in the middle, but what is the basis for above or below the line? I see Iron nails above, and a beer top below, but how is it doing that?

Great thanks Dan - Were you using AM? Also. Some people report that Iron can screw pinpointing, Did you use pinpoint mode at all, and was there any difference between the location centres with pinpoint compared to "normal" wiggle/cross centring? Cheers

Excellent experiment Dan. Can you confirm how you did the experiement, I can read it two different ways. - Were the two sticks/targets buried at the same time when you tested, if so how far apart? Or where you just testing F2 on one stick/target , and then replaced it with the other and tested that? What mode was this done in, I assume Beach 1 or Beach 2? Anyone have a suggestion how the results would change if in Field2 Cheers.

Hi Ed, I'm in the UK just been out today, I use Field2 as my prefered. I tried out the F2 at 6 for the first time recently, Noise Cancelled and Ground Balanced as normal, other setting as standard. - All seemed Ok with me, found a couple of corroded coins 200 years old + all seemed OK to me. I'm out again tomorrow evening, I'll check out your list. (Iron Falsing still a hassle, I've changed my approach recently - digging a lot more iffy signals if they are more that 2spades indicated (4") deep.) What location were you in - Field?s, what was the ground like - lots of signals every swing or quiet?, what sensitivity did you use? I assume if it was recent the ground was wet - so good conductivity?

Hi Jackpine, what is the link for Tom's clarification? I'm trying to understand the equivalence of F2 at 5 and above compared to FE. Anyone know Is F2 just an extension of the FE tones above and below FE0, or does it do something extra/different? My challenge is to not waste time being distracted by Iron Falsing. I'm fed up digging horseshoes and Iron crap at 13, on the off-chance that the variable signals I'm seeing may be deep or on-edge coins. I check using AM and 5Hz but too many still fool me (UK fields, Field 2 using standard settings)