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NCtoad

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  1. ^This is how I learned to navigate the menu. I just took the remote off the stem and took it to bed with me and fooled around with it. I know this sounds a little perverted, but it worked! LOL! I set the lower stem with coil beside the bed so it didn’t lose connection. I also had the owner’s manual on the nightstand next to me in case I needed it. Pretty easy to learn. Congrats on picking the D2. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.
  2. I like that idea of not having to press a button to ground balance. It senses the pumping motion and ground balances whenever you pump the coil. Nice!
  3. Hell yeah Chase! Those are some awesome finds for an abbreviated hunt. Actually those are some awesome finds for an all day hunt too! Lol. If I’d have found that pipe tamper I’d still be scratching my head trying to figure out what it is. Thanks for posting!
  4. Seriously though. If you’ve hit a site so much that you’re just digging non- ferrous signals, you need to turn your silencer and bottlecap reject both to zero. Then you will dig nails that sound good. But that’s what you’re gonna have to do in hopes to find something good intermingled with iron.
  5. I have those “gut” or “hunch” feelings every so often and most of the time they do pay off! Just the week before last I had about 45 minutes after work before it got dark. There’s an old spring in the woods about 100 yards from my house. About 30 yards from the spring is a huge oak tree about 3-4’ in diameter. Tons of trash around that tree; aluminum pop cans and lots of iron. Anyways in that short time before it got dark I figured I’d try around the base of that tree one more time. I used my nox with the six inch coil. Amongst all the iron and trash signals I got a fairly decent tone ringing up 20-21. About 3” down was a 189? indian head penny! My first ihp for the year. I just had that hunch that there had to be a coin around the base of that tree!
  6. To be honest, I would have no problem ever buying another coil and just continuing to use the 9” coil. That 9” coil is the goldilocks of coil sizes….at least for the D2 and the hunting I do. If I need something smaller I have my nox set up and ready to go with the 6” coil. In reality I don’t think a larger or smaller coil for the D2 would pay for itself with finds over and above what the 9 will get. Maybe if I did a lot of beach hunting…maybe? BUT, it’s always fun to buy a new toy and have specific tools for specific jobs! I guess I’m just rambling here. Lol
  7. Hell yeah! There’s probably more out there where you got the slq.
  8. So, a multiple of 62 mm, which to us still using the dinosaur units of inches and feet, is 2.44”. Which in multiples is: 2.44, 4.88, 7.32, etc. The ideal lengths depending on how tall you are and how far your shaft is extended will most likely fall in the following ranges: 31.72, 34.16, 36.6, 38.04, 41.48, 43.92. All in inches. I’m not so nerdy as I am anal, so I would use the length that best fits my needs. Thanks for the specs Pimento!
  9. Call me different, but I like challenging sites like that, especially if I can hunt them multiple times trying different settings.
  10. I would even take a 6” round if it’s possible to stuff a battery and circuit board in it. I have always (and still do) loved my 6” nox coil.
  11. That 11x13 looks so much bigger than the 11”. Has anyone actually measured the width of both? From your pic the 11x13 looks a little wider than the 11”. It’s probably just the perspective.
  12. One thing that may be an advantage to the 11” is that, since it being a stock coil, there may be more used ones available. Thus cheaper.
  13. I’ll probably do what Carolina has done and coil the cable so it contracts as the rod is collapsed into its travel configuration. That way I could hunt in water that’s as deep as the top of the upper rod.
  14. If I were to buy a larger coil, I would get the 11x13 over the 11”.
  15. Hell yeah! And thanks for posting the tid that it came in at.
  16. Thanks for the explanation Chase. I had surmised that the co-ax radiated it’s signal from the unshielded end. However, in the original post Parkgt’s photo shows the end of the cable sticking just past the end of the lower rod. When he puts the lower rod in the upper metal, the end of that cable is then enclosed in the upper metal tube and as shown in the video it works fine. Why is that?
  17. What you posted above is what is confusing me about the remote losing it’s signal. In that post Parkgt said that he tried running the co-ax cable all the way up the upper shaft but the signal wasn’t good. What I’m not understanding is that if you run the co-ax cable just long enough so that it hangs out of the top of the lower shaft, some of that cable is still inside of the upper metal shaft. If the metal shaft is causing interference, why doesn’t it cause interference when the co-ax end is is at the bottom half of the upper shaft? In other words, if I run the co-ax so it just hangs out of the top of the lower shaft like Parkgt shows in his pic in the original post, the top of that cable will still be inside of the upper metal shaft. If I made that cable longer so the end is near the top of the upper shaft, why would that make the signal worse? Maybe I’m misunderstanding something. Sorry if I am.
  18. Ok now I’m confused. Some are saying if you extend the antenna higher up (closer to the remote) in the stock metal upper shaft it won’t work as well. But leaving the end extended just past the end of the lower (I’m using the cf nokta lower shaft) it works fine. How can that be because the upper end of the lower shaft is still inside of the metal upper especially in my case where I don’t extend it very far?
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