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Detector Prospector Magazine

Detector Database



Posts posted by NCtoad

  1. 2 hours ago, Cheddar said:

    well the good thing is the remote unhooks from the stem. so honestly just sit there on the couch or computer chair and mess with it. watch some videos and move along. no substitute for hands on experience.

    ^This is how I learned to navigate the menu. I just took the remote off the stem and took it to bed with me and fooled around with it.  I know this sounds a little perverted, but it worked!  LOL!   I set the lower stem with coil beside the bed so it didn’t lose connection.  I also had the owner’s manual on the nightstand next to me in case I needed it. Pretty easy to learn. 

    Congrats on picking the D2.  I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.  

    • Like 5
    • Haha 1
  2. 7 hours ago, GeoBill said:

    Found the Quick Start Guide for the V80 on the Quest website. Here's what it says about the Gyro Sensor

    Gyro Sensor
    Instruct the detector to automatically initiate ground
    balance without manual button press. Enable the
    detector to automatically enter power-saving mode if
    there is no motion detected for 5 seconds. Activate
    motion detection for the detector to measure swing
    speed and angle for improved accuracy.



    I like that idea of not having to press a button to ground balance.  It senses the pumping motion and ground balances whenever you pump the coil.  Nice!

    • Like 4
  3. 26 minutes ago, Commonwealthdetector said:

    This is true and it's always been the toughest place I've ever swung. This should be factored more when going probably as I know what it could turn into but I also know it's a only I've swung cw camp plus wealthy 1800 speaking slave owning first few family in county kinda farm so I guess expectations contribute. Darn Shame it seems the square nail watchers dumped the square nail heaven on the grounds. And now that I'm actually thinking slowing down wouldn't hurt lol damnit it sucks when one realizes many many lessons still await!?

    Yes, slowing down is a major factor.  Try roping off a small area and concentrating just on that one small area. Go slow!

    • Like 1
  4. Seriously though.  If you’ve hit a site so much that you’re just digging non- ferrous signals, you need to turn your silencer and bottlecap reject both to zero.  Then you will dig nails that sound good.  But that’s what you’re gonna have to do in hopes to find something good intermingled with iron.  

    • Like 2
  5. 7 minutes ago, F350Platinum said:

    Thanks NC, it was great to finally find one. I walked a very long way hearing absolutely nothing, and had this premonition that if I went "over there", I'd find something unique. Sure enough. 🥳 A hard won goal. I always follow these thoughts.

    I have those “gut” or “hunch” feelings every so often and most of the time they do pay off!  Just the week before last I had about 45 minutes after work before it got dark.  There’s an old spring in the woods about 100 yards from my house.  About 30 yards from the spring is a huge oak tree about 3-4’ in diameter.  Tons of trash around that tree; aluminum pop cans and lots of iron.  Anyways in that short time before it got dark I figured I’d try around the base of that tree one more time.  I used my nox with the six inch coil.  Amongst all the iron and trash signals I got a fairly decent tone ringing up 20-21.  About 3” down was a 189? indian head penny!   My first ihp for the year.  I just had that hunch that there had to be a coin around the base of that tree!

    • Like 5
  6. 1 hour ago, CPT_GhostLight said:

    Now I'm rethinking this whole thing. I mainly just want another coil to make a WS Master rig and to also have as a backup. I got the 9" with the D2 almost a year ago and haven't really needed a larger coil. 

    I had the 6", 11", and 12x15" with my previous detector and 98% of the time I just used the 11", until the 10x5" came out, then I just used the 10X5" and never used anything else. I originally got the 12x15" coil for large sports fields and the few times we went to the beach on vacation, but in both types of locations, I remember I ditched the 12x15" and just went with the 11" and 10x5" to save weight, which at my age is preferable to gaining an inch or two coverage per swing.

    I realize the D2 and D2 coils are much lighter, but let's look at the breakdown:

    9" coil = 345g (12.17oz)

    11" coil = 470g (16.57oz)

    11x13" coil = 570g (20.11oz)

    9.5x5" coil (if it existed) = 300g (10.58oz)

    To go from the 9" to 11" coil adds 125g (4.4oz), but to go from the 9" to 11x13" coil adds 225g (7.95oz). 

    I can handle lifting a quarter pound. I do it at McDonalds all the time. But adding a half pound is something I'll have to think more about.

    Now if the imaginary 9.5x5" coil weighed 300g (10.58oz), then that would knock off 45g (1.59oz)!

    So add 1/4 pound or 1/2 pound or lose a couple of ounces... I think I see which would be the best way to go. 😏

    To be honest, I would have no problem ever buying another coil and just continuing to use the 9” coil.  That 9” coil is the goldilocks of coil sizes….at least for the D2 and the hunting I do.  If I need something smaller I have my nox set up and ready to go with the 6” coil.  In reality I don’t think a larger or smaller coil for the D2 would pay for itself with finds over and above what the 9 will get.  Maybe if I did a lot of beach hunting…maybe?  BUT, it’s always fun to buy a new toy and have specific tools for specific jobs!  I guess I’m just rambling here.  Lol

    • Like 2
  7. 3 hours ago, PimentoUK said:
    To be extra nerdy, the length of the co-ax cable matters, and it should ideally be multiples of half-wavelength long, ie. 62mm. It matters because the RF signal current flows in the inner core AND the outer screen.

    ( Anyone familiar with CB radio, for example, would know the ideal co-ax cable length ( rig to antenna ) is 18 feet in Imperial units ( 5.5metres ), and even if your vehicle installation only required 12 feet, you don't cut down the cable, just leave the slack in your trunk etc.)

    So, a multiple of 62 mm, which to us still using the dinosaur units of inches and feet, is 2.44”.  Which in multiples is:  2.44, 4.88, 7.32, etc.   The ideal lengths depending on how tall you are and how far your shaft is extended will  most likely fall in the following ranges: 31.72, 34.16, 36.6, 38.04, 41.48, 43.92.  All in inches.  I’m not so nerdy as I am anal, so I would use the length that best fits my needs.  Thanks for the specs Pimento!

    • Like 1
  8. 46 minutes ago, CPT_GhostLight said:

    Ditto that!

    10x5... 9.5x5... 9x5... any of those will do! 😏

    I would even take a 6” round if it’s possible to stuff a battery and circuit board in it.  I have always (and still do) loved my 6” nox coil.  

    • Like 2
  9. 1 hour ago, Carolina said:

    Couldn’t make up my mind soooooo. Good side by side for judgement.


    That 11x13 looks so much bigger than the 11”.  Has anyone actually measured the width of both?   From your pic the 11x13 looks a little wider than the 11”.  It’s probably just the perspective.  

  10. 33 minutes ago, Chase Goldman said:

    Gotcha.  I just figured the the further you run it up the metal shaft, the more attenuation occurs, with the mid point probably being the worst.  The closer you are to either end of the upper less attenuation.  Couldn't say where in the upper Parkgt terminated the waveguide so I just assumed it was being attenuated by the upper shaft metal.  I'll have to run some tests myself because the "cut to suit" coax solution seems best.  It also looks like that's where XP is headed with their new antenna pack.

    I’ll probably do what Carolina has done and coil the cable so it contracts as the rod is collapsed into its travel configuration.  That way I could hunt in water that’s as deep as the top of the upper rod.  

    • Like 3
  11. 8 hours ago, Chase Goldman said:

    See my explanation in the previous post above.

    Thanks for the explanation Chase.  I had surmised that the co-ax radiated it’s signal from the unshielded end.  However, in the original post Parkgt’s photo shows the end of the cable sticking just past the end of the lower rod.  When he puts the lower rod in the upper metal, the end of that cable is then enclosed in the upper metal tube and as shown in the video it works fine.  Why is that?

  12. On 1/23/2023 at 11:50 AM, Carolina said:

    The upper shaft is metal therefore it prevents the signal unless you run it all the way into the plastic retainer that the RC snaps onto. I coiled my cable like the CTX and ran it all the way up to the retainer and held it in place with a plastic tie wrap so it works with my WS6 module. 

    What you posted above is what is confusing me about the remote losing it’s signal.  In that post Parkgt said that he tried running the co-ax cable all the way up the upper shaft but the signal wasn’t good.  What I’m not understanding is that if you run the co-ax cable just long enough so that it hangs out of the top of the lower shaft, some of that cable is still inside of the upper metal shaft.  If the metal shaft is causing interference, why doesn’t it cause interference when the co-ax end is is at the bottom half of the upper shaft?   In other words, if I run the co-ax so it just hangs out of the top of the lower shaft like Parkgt shows in his pic in the original post, the top of that cable will still be inside of the upper metal shaft.  If I made that cable longer so the end is near the top of the upper shaft, why would that make the signal worse?   Maybe I’m misunderstanding something.  Sorry if I am. 

  13. Ok now I’m confused.  Some are saying if you extend the antenna higher up (closer to the remote) in the stock metal upper shaft it won’t work as well.  But leaving the end extended just past the end of the lower (I’m using the cf nokta lower shaft) it works fine.  How can that be because the upper end of the lower shaft is still inside of the metal upper especially in my case where I don’t extend it very far?   

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