NCtoad

I'm curious as to why you're not running the highest recovery speed. On my 800 I hardly ever go below 5 and am usually at 6 or 7 in my trashy parks.

That is a really, really nice end result! I've been following this thread from the beginning waiting for the end result. I had never thought of kevlar as a shaft material, but it seems like a great, high quality choice for top performance. Thanks for posting all the pics and the step by step process.

I had to send my mojave in a while back because it was so noisy. Got two messages from Rusty at Tesoro...one on my cell and one on my home phone that it was a bad coil and they replaced it and it was on its way back to me. When I opened the box, there was also a handwritten receipt of what had been done to it and he mentioned in the note that they had included a new battery compartment cover! How often do you experience that today?

I"m thinking of a scoop for creeks around where I live and found this one that looks very sturdy for rocky/gravel bottoms: https://www.nuttallenterprises.com/products/copy-of-diamond-head-48-stainless-beach-scoop-yellow-grip-handle I asked a fellow member on the FMDF who has one and he thinks it's a great scoop for tough conditions.

I bought the Anderson shaft mainly because he includes a carbon fiber lower rod and a sturdy metal arm cuff. With the minelab cuff and the anderson rod the weight was almost exactly the same with the minelab rod just very slightly lighter. With the anderson metal cuff It was slightly heavier than the stock rod, but not noticeable IMO. I like it because it's rock solid now. Even though my stock rod seemed tight once I shimmed the cam lock, it still felt like something was loose when swinging. It might have been the arm cuff (I shimmed with tape too so it was a tighter fit on the rod). The one thing about the Anderson is that if you use his cuff, there's no built in stand on the underside. I ended up making one out of nylon round stock and delrin and now I'm very happy with it.

Congrats on a very cool find!

That's some great information Randy thanks for posting! Lower sens settings on the nox will still get pretty deep. I've found 8-9" lincoln cents with the sense at 17 or 18. This in moderately damp ground though. I guess the ticket for drier conditions would be to lower the sense, especially in mineralized soil.

What a great post and I agree with everything said especially lowering sensitivity. The OP never stated what sense he was using, but I suspect it was at least the factory default of 20. Lots of times I go down to 15 or 16 and still have dug coins at 7-8". And if you're looking for gold, you can probably go lower than that...most modern gold dropped in parks and ballfields isn't very deep...at least the gold I've found. On another note, Chase, are you the guy that wrote the Equinox book?

Ok, had my first hunt with the new Anderson shaft yesterday and it's rock solid, no looseness or creaking. As mentioned in my previous post, I ended up using the Anderson cuff which doesn't have a built-in stand. I really like the built-in stand of the minelab cuff and missed it while detecting yesterday. So last evening I made one for the Anderson shaft. This also covers up the scratches I made to the end of the shaft when I switched back and forth between the minelab and Anderson cuffs. I think my stand will make the detector much more stable when I set it down on the ground.

Received my anderson shaft today and just put it together. I do have the shaft twist...it's very slight, but if I tighten the screw pretty tight it's pretty much rock solid. But that screw is small and the surface area that makes contact with the lower shaft is very small and I just don't know how it will hold up over time. And I don't want to strip that screw as it's plastic. My main concern is with the lower rod on the closest hole to the head unit and with the head unit on the lowest hole, the detector is still about 1/2" higher (longer) than with the stock set up where the lower rod is on the 4th hole from the top. I'm 5'10" and don't have exceptionally long arms so it feels that the detector is still just a little long for my tastes. There's plenty of room in the upper rod for more holes. I wonder why Anderson didn't drill more for shorter people. For people shorter than me or people with long arms this shaft would be too long unless you like swinging way out in front of you. I also weighed the detector totally stock and with the new shaft and anderson cuff. It's slightly heavier now, but it seems a little better balanced. Hard to tell for sure on the balance because I don't have two to compare side by side...one stock and one with the anderson set up. I'm just going by remembering what the stock setup felt like before I changed it over to the Anderson. My only other gripe is that I originally took the Anderson cuff off as I wanted the stock one with the "feet" on it. (The Anderson doesn't have any feet on it's cuff to help keep the detector upright when you set it down.) As I slid it off the screw holes in it were not deburred and scratched the shaft pretty badly...it's just superficial, but it looks bad. I ended up putting the Anderson cuff back on because with the detector head in the lower hole the minelab cuff was up near my elbow...there's no adjustment for it, only one hole. The Anderson cuff has three adjustment holes and on the lowest one it feels good.

I hope it's not twisty as I just ordered one a few days ago and should be here today. I got the Anderson over the Pluggers because the Anderson comes with a carbon fiber lower shaft which is hopefully a better spec shaft than than the plastic stock one. Which should prevent any twisting or wobbling.

There is no VDI in pinpoint mode. Whatever number is in the VDI when in pinpoint is the last number that was in search mode the moment you switched to pinpoint. If you'll notice the VDI stays constant while in pinpoint. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.

That's a great piece of gold! Sure beats finding those measly 6 or 10 gram rings?

Is there any detector that will sound differently on a gold ring that rings up at say 14 on the nox and a pulltab that rings up at 14. I'm fairly new to detecting (2 years) and can't discern any difference in the sound of a gold ring and pulltab that comes in at the same disc on my fisher F70, multiple tesoros or the nox.

Thanks for the reply. That's how I also set up my tone breaks in 5 tones, but I narrow the nickel range to 12 and 13 only. Too many pull tabs at 14. I also set my tone pitch for nickels at 20 instead of 25. That way I don't have to look at the display and tell from tones only if nickel or other.

Congrats on the silver! That's a great idea using 2 tones with the break at 22, I'll have to try that. What approach would you have used at an older park?

Nice return! As for me I found this big 10k Gardner Webb University ring tbe very first time out with my equinox 800. In fact it the 3rd I'd ever dug with it! After I got home I did an online search of the graduating class and found the name that the initials on the inside of the ring matched up to. After I had the name my wife used her Facebook and found the guy's phone number through a mutual friend. I called him and we met up at the soccer field where I found it. He was very happy to get it back! Btw, it rang up exactly the same as a fresh zinc penny (20-21).

Daniel, do you know the dimensions of the Nuttall scoop. I went to their website and they don't give any dimensions for it other than it's made of 304 stainless and the handle is 48". Is it a sturdy scoop? thanks!

Very nice of you to return it. On my very first outing with my 800 I found a 14.6g 10k Gardner Webb University class ring at my son's soccer field. It was the third target dug and rang up 20-21. With the help of google I found the owner and he worked at the community college next to the soccer field. I returned it to him the following week at the same soccer field and then dug a nice silver pendant. BTW, do you always dig 3-4's? I hardly ever dig #'s that low as they're usually foil gum wrappers or very small pieces of can slaw.

That's what I'm thinking also. Definitely the gold rang as an 8. The other two is a tossup, but I'll go with silver as 18 since it's bigger.

Mine is sometimes hard to turn on also. Thought it was just me, but maybe not. It seems to turn off much easier...never had a problem turning off. I also did a factory reset once and it took a few tries before I got it to reset.

Thanks for the heads up. Just checked mine and they're good, no cracks or stress points.

Mine was fairly tight when I got it, but I could rotate the lower rod about 1/10 of a turn or less. I ended up putting a small piece of electrical tape on the camlock pad and that worked for a while and then it loosened up again. So I then put a small piece of black friction tape on top of the electrical tape and that has held fine so far. You can definitely tell if it's shimmed enough if when tightening the camlock it starts to tighten up before turning it very much. And, as someone mentioned above, my armcuff was slightly loose also making it feel like the lower rod was loose. I took it apart and put a couple of wraps of electrical tape where it contacts the shaft and that fixed the looseness.

That was me and thanks for your comment. I have a cover for my fisher F70 and when used in bright sunlight the glare makes it almost impossible to see the screen. Nice to know this one doesn't have that problem.