NCtoad

So, a multiple of 62 mm, which to us still using the dinosaur units of inches and feet, is 2.44”. Which in multiples is: 2.44, 4.88, 7.32, etc. The ideal lengths depending on how tall you are and how far your shaft is extended will most likely fall in the following ranges: 31.72, 34.16, 36.6, 38.04, 41.48, 43.92. All in inches. I’m not so nerdy as I am anal, so I would use the length that best fits my needs. Thanks for the specs Pimento!

Hell yeah!

Call me different, but I like challenging sites like that, especially if I can hunt them multiple times trying different settings.

I would even take a 6” round if it’s possible to stuff a battery and circuit board in it. I have always (and still do) loved my 6” nox coil.

That 11x13 looks so much bigger than the 11”. Has anyone actually measured the width of both? From your pic the 11x13 looks a little wider than the 11”. It’s probably just the perspective.

One thing that may be an advantage to the 11” is that, since it being a stock coil, there may be more used ones available. Thus cheaper.

I’ll probably do what Carolina has done and coil the cable so it contracts as the rod is collapsed into its travel configuration. That way I could hunt in water that’s as deep as the top of the upper rod.

Me too! Lol

If I were to buy a larger coil, I would get the 11x13 over the 11”.

Hell yeah! And thanks for posting the tid that it came in at.

Thanks for the explanation Chase. I had surmised that the co-ax radiated it’s signal from the unshielded end. However, in the original post Parkgt’s photo shows the end of the cable sticking just past the end of the lower rod. When he puts the lower rod in the upper metal, the end of that cable is then enclosed in the upper metal tube and as shown in the video it works fine. Why is that?

What you posted above is what is confusing me about the remote losing it’s signal. In that post Parkgt said that he tried running the co-ax cable all the way up the upper shaft but the signal wasn’t good. What I’m not understanding is that if you run the co-ax cable just long enough so that it hangs out of the top of the lower shaft, some of that cable is still inside of the upper metal shaft. If the metal shaft is causing interference, why doesn’t it cause interference when the co-ax end is is at the bottom half of the upper shaft? In other words, if I run the co-ax so it just hangs out of the top of the lower shaft like Parkgt shows in his pic in the original post, the top of that cable will still be inside of the upper metal shaft. If I made that cable longer so the end is near the top of the upper shaft, why would that make the signal worse? Maybe I’m misunderstanding something. Sorry if I am.

Ok now I’m confused. Some are saying if you extend the antenna higher up (closer to the remote) in the stock metal upper shaft it won’t work as well. But leaving the end extended just past the end of the lower (I’m using the cf nokta lower shaft) it works fine. How can that be because the upper end of the lower shaft is still inside of the metal upper especially in my case where I don’t extend it very far?

Where did you get the cover to go over you nokta lower shaft?

Wow! Those are great finds. For me, even though I live in North Carolina, I live in an area that had little or no civil war activity. I’d love to find some civil war relics like that. As far as disc vs. notch, my take is this, (and please correct me if I’m wrong): Disc is basically a tone break so setting disc at 40 everything 40 and below will give a low tone just like iron. Notch is different in that if your disc is set at, say, 7 and you notch from 7-40, anything below 7 will come in with a low tone and anything from 7-40 will be silent. Whether one way or the other unmasks better in iron is, I think, still up for debate. I know some have posted that notching unmasks better, but I don’t think anyone’s got any actual proof of that. However since everything 7-40 is silent using notch, you may hear a high blip easier than if you just had your disc set at 40.

Excellent! This setup is perfect for me as I rarely water hunt but would like to submerge the coil at the edge of streams or in springs, etc. Thanks for sharing!

This right here! It takes at least 12 pumps to get a stable ground balance number. Too much in my opinion. Nox takes about half that many pumps to ground balance.

Wow! That’s a great hunt! Two Indian head pennies, a nice sized silver coin, a large cent and some nice relics! Nice goin’!

Hell yeah!

I tried it out after work last night in my test garden. My test garden consists of one silver dime buried at 8” in mild soil. Lol The musketeer hit it but barely. Definitely enough of a signal to dig though. I thought that was pretty good for a 7 3/8” coil. As a side note, my Tesoro mojave with its 7” coil will not hit this dime. I also tried my nox with the 6” coil and it hit it hard!

Doesn’t XP say in the manual that most detectors with a ground stability setting won’t even let you adjust the ground stability to the equivalent of setting 1 on the d2? Something like, that setting is for very experienced users? I’m going from memory here so please excuse me if I have this totally wrong.

Those are some great finds! I’d love to find stuff that old around here. That round knob reminds me of a knob from safe.

A minelab musketeer advantage, that is. It’s in nearly new condition and I can’t wait to try it out. I need to buy some batteries though. From what I’ve learned from internet searches is that these musketeers were analog machines and very deep even with the small ts800 coil, which is what mine came with. Anyone else ever use one of these?

It was on 2.

Once again Chase, a very concise and easy to understand post on the ground stability feature!