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NCtoad

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Posts posted by NCtoad

  1. 4 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

    Killer finds NC! šŸ‘ That is an argument in favor of the Deus... šŸ¤”Ā  Although you probably could have found that half with anything unless it was on edge.

    What program?

    I was using program 2 (sensitive) when I found the walker. Ā Three tones but second tone break set at 86 and I upped the frequency of the high tone to 881 hz. Ā I also think I set the sensitivity to 95. Ā Stock settings other than this. Ā I don’t think that half was on edge although I think it was tilted slightly from horizontal. Ā I need to pay more attention to what I dig. Ā I see shiny in the hole and just want to get it out! Ā  Lol

    • Like 3
  2. 18 hours ago, mn90403 said:

    I have a scoop made by this company and it is the same as I bought it 5 years later.

    Ā 

    https://www.borderlineengineering.com/Ā 

    I bought one of their stainless scoops. I’ve only detected at the ocean three times since I started detecting and done fresh water hunting only a few times more than that, but it worked well and is very strong. Ā I bought mine off his ebay store and contacted him about modifying it with a solid strap around the back. Ā He did that for me for no extra charge. Ā 

    • Like 3
  3. On 5/25/2022 at 7:55 AM, ColonelDan said:

    The higher the discrimination setting the greater number of targets will register as ferrous.Ā Ā  If for example you set the discrim at 7, targets'TDI that range from 7 or below willĀ  be reported as "iron."

    It doesn’t work like that in full tones. Ā See this thread: Ā 

    Ā 

    • Like 1
  4. 1 hour ago, F350Platinum said:

    Makes sense NC! šŸ‘

    Thing is, I detest that 🤬 lanyard, I'm hoping now to sand the adapter a bit like Cap'n Ghostlight did, and use the thumbscrew to easily remove the RC. Or not. 😁

    One of the things I'm not too thrilled with about the Deus 2 is the charging procedure, having to shorten the shaft when I want to charge the RC, coil, and headphones. That will cause undue wear on the clamp, leading to wobble.Ā 

    The other alternative of course is to get another power supply from them and charge the coil separately.

    Ā 

    I shorten the rod every time I take it in the car. Ā I don’t worry too much about wear and tear on the camlocks because if they do wear out you can buy them as parts from XP. Ā It’s another reason I like this detector: Ā  You can buy spare parts if they break or wear out. Ā 

    • Like 2
  5. 21 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

    Gotta add another one to this list:

    https://www.detectingdoodads.com/store/p53/Locking_shoe_for_the_Deus_2.html

    s963253682610875296_p53_i10_w903.jpeg.428cb971b99a9491fa14a8d84617733e.jpeg

    Wish it came in black, but I guess the maker wants it to stand out. One is on the way. Looks like the fit and finish will be great.

    I saw those a couple of weeks ago and was going to order one but then I got to thinking about it. Ā What would happen if I tripped and fell on my detector? Ā Something’s got to give and either that mounting device will break or the plastic on the back of my remote will. Ā So I decided to just go with the factory tether. Ā What made me think of this was about 20 years ago I bought a BMW R1150GS motorcycle. Ā This was an adventure type motorcycle with the two horizontally opposed cylinders that stick out from the sides of the bike. Ā This is commonly known as a ā€œboxerā€ engine. Ā Being an adventure bike I rode it on gravel roads and other places where you wouldn’t take a strictly street oriented bike. Ā When you do that with a big, heavy bike you’ll eventually drop it. Ā When you do drop it the first thing that makes contact with the ground is the cylinder head. Ā Now BMW is aware of this and provides stock plastic cylinder head guards. Ā They look and feel pretty flimsy. Ā It wasn’t long after that bike came on the market that there were aftermarket suppliers of better, more robust cylinder guards. Ā One such company made very stout aluminum guards that just bolted to the engine in the same bolt holes that the stock guards used. Ā I thought they looked very strong and rugged so I bought a pair and installed them. Ā Not too long after that I dropped the bike at a walking pace coming off the edge of a sidewalk. Ā Guess what happened? Ā  That strong aluminum cylinder guard was so stiff that the weight of the bike made it crack the bolt hole where it attached to the engine! Ā  If I would have had the stock plastic guard it would have flexed and just gotten scratched and I could have replaced it and the bike would have looked like new. Ā Instead I had to take those guards off and left them off. Ā I ended up selling the bike about a year later with full disclosure of the damage. Ā If I would have kept the bike I would have had to find someone to weld that hole with aluminum then drill and re-tap it. Ā 
    Ā 

    Sorry for the long story but just a heads up of what could happen. Ā 
    Ā 

    Edit: Ā I’m not trying to discredit detecting doodads product, it’s probably great for water hunters and such where the detector probably won’t get dropped or fallen upon. Ā But if you’re hiking through the woods and you trip and fall on the remote in such a way that there’s a lot of force put on it, something’s going to give. Ā I would probably bet XP designed the remote attachment so that it does pop off before something breaks. Ā 

    • Like 2
  6. 4 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

    Do you think you found a site that has seen few or no detectors?Ā Ā  Does the depth of the coins you found give an indication?Ā  Is the area a maintained/manicured sports field or just a general unpampered play area where fertilizer and watering aren't applied?

    Just from the vast amount of clad I’ve found, I’d say this school hasn’t been detected for (and I’m guessing here), at least 10 years. Ā Most of the clad is in the 2-5ā€ range. Ā If I’m remembering correctly the two silver dimes were in the 6-7ā€ range but they were in an area that gets more shade and the ground was softer there. Ā I didn’t hunt the sports fields, only the surrounding grassy areas. Ā I don’t think there’s any watering done and I don’t know about fertilizer. Ā 

    • Like 1
  7. 24 minutes ago, F350Platinum said:

    I have both the Ranger and the Barracuda. The Barracuda is a T handle and the Ranger is a D handle. There is a longer handle version of the Ranger, if you're over 6' you might look into it.

    Aside from handle type, the Ranger digs deeper than the Barracuda, I'll often find my target right at the bottom of the plug. I've always had to dig a bit more with the Barracuda.

    Any model you choose will be good, but I like the Ranger. I'm 6'1, and don't find it hard to use. They are the best shovels out there IMO.

    Ā 

    Since I subscribed to Paystreak’s videos, I want to get the phoenix model because of the curved, dish-shaped blade. Ā For the last few years I’ve been using a rootslayer nomad. Ā I’ve been pretty happy with it, but looking to try something different. Ā 

    • Like 1
  8. 13 minutes ago, F350Platinum said:

    Nice one. šŸ‘ I agree with you - sometimes it's a blast to dig a lot of money. It sharpens your retrieval of stuff.

    Going to a campground I've hunted before soon, that's pretty much what I'll find there but there is an old farmhouse site. Out of the farms for now 😵

    Cool silver coin! Is that all junk jewelry?Ā 

    The deus 2 is definitely a very good clad machine!  Yes, unfortunately all the jewelry is junk😄. I dug both rings within minutes of each other.  That sorta put me in jewelry mode for the rest of the hunt!  Lol

    • Like 1
  9. 20 minutes ago, Skate said:

    It's money! Every coin I can put back in my pocket is a win. Awesome how you were able to convince the kids to go to the school with you. Jedi warrior mind tricks you have.Ā 

    Actually my girls wanted to see the band concert so I said I’d take them and do a little detecting while they were watching the concert😁

    I agree on the ā€œit’s moneyā€. It adds up over time. Ā I usually use my clad to buy metal detecting accessories. Ā I’ve had my eye on a predator shovel. Ā 

    • Like 2
  10. 1 hour ago, longbow62 said:

    Sorry must have forgot it was 5. Have not ran mine on 5 in Park1 for so long must have forgotten. Thought it was 4 where mine stays most of the time. Yeah I've read everything on Dankowski's forum about recovery speed. I've just never heard anyone mention turning up the recovery in Park1. Seems most turn it down. Wasn't it stated that 3 was actually the fastest it would go and every time you raise the recovery number after 3 you are just affecting the audio response?Ā 

    Wherever you read that 3 was the fastest recovery speed, they might have been talking about the 600. Ā There is no audio response on the nox. Ā Audio response is volume modulation where deeper targets sound fainter than shallow targets. Ā IMO the nox has poor modulation no matter what the recovery speed is set to. Ā 

    • Like 1
  11. 6 hours ago, Steve Herschbach said:

    I agree. Removing dirt from the equation negates tests as far as I’m concerned. It’s like racing cars by jacking them up with tires off the ground, and comparing speedometer readings. Seems like some people never metal detect, just test, and test, and test. It's an actual subset of the hobby now, just like coin detecting or relic detecting. But hey, as long as they are having fun, that's all that matters. Me, I'd rather go find stuff.Ā :smile:

    Right on Steve! Ā  I’d much rather spend my precious metal detecting time actually detecting. Ā However there are times when I’ll do a few tests just to wrap my head around how the detector functions under certain circumstances. Ā When I do those tests, the objects I’m testing are sitting directly on the ground which still isn’t anything close to an object that has been sitting in the ground undisturbed for many years. Ā This discussion also reminds of guys who swear every nickel they’ve ever dug rang up as a 12 on a nox! Ā  You just gotta take these tests with a grain of salt. Ā 

    • Like 3
  12. On 5/19/2022 at 4:02 PM, mudwhale said:

    It could be the year the Half was minted. My 1958 Benjamin is 90% and my 1967 Kennedy is 40%.

    I’m assuming that since the large majority of silver halves are 90% silver, Ā that is what he used in his test. Ā 

    • Like 1
  13. 7 hours ago, Aaron said:

    Great job on the categorization, that’s A LOT of work!

    Yes, I noticed the gold ring numbers a couple weeks ago when I tested my jewelry. I’m actually disappointed w these numbers especially w the ones in the 80s & 90s. I don’t understand why silver dollars are at 99, usually items that high are in the iron wrap around.

    There’s very little differentiation between medium to large silver coins, not good….

    Im no engineer, however I do know it’s not a good idea to be intermingling gold targets w silver. Hopefully this will be addressed in a future update…..

    Aaron

    It was a silver half dollar that came in at 99. Ā The Morgan silver dollar came in at 96. I find that strange. Ā Can someone explain to me why a the larger silver dollar came in lower than the silver half?

  14. When I need to charge, I usually plug the charger in before going to bed and unplug it in the morning. Ā I also don’t charge anything unless it needs it. Ā For example, if I know I’ll be going on a five hour hunt and the coil is showing 2 bars, I’ll charge it the night before. Ā If I’m going out for an hour or two I won’t charge it. Ā My coil gets charged more than the remote or ws6. Ā 

    • Like 3
    • Oh my! 1
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