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steveg

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  1. OK, so you started in All-Terrain Fast (thinking it would be best in iron), but you were not doing well with that mode; so, THEN you switched to All-Terrain Low Conductors, and got drastically different results. That is very interesting... Steve
  2. PUHH -- Very interesting. I wish I knew more of what I was looking at, with those graphs/that equipment, and I wish someone could translate the Russian to English! BUT -- it was clear that "amplitude" (power?) of the MC signal trace is DEFINITELY greater than EQX. It was also obvious that the amplitude of the MC signal trace, while running in both ATHC and ATLC, was the same. ONLY when switching to beach mode, was the amplitude reduced. So, can it safely be concluded that there is NOT more xmit power in ATHC, vs. ATLC? If so, this would suggest perhaps it's the lower frequency weighting that makes the machine more "unstable" in iron? Another interesting note...the signal trace in beach mode on the MC (like in the EQX) shows reduced "amplitude" (power?) of the signal by some percentage...which we already knew. BUT -- if you note the amplitude on the graph for MC beach mode...it's interesting that while it's definitely reduced compared to the other MC modes, its reduction moved it ONLY down to the same as the amplitude of the REGULAR hunt modes in EQX (with EQX beach mode being lower still). So, said another way, I tentatively conclude: 1. MC "xmit power" greater than EQX... 2. MC "xmit power" the same, in ATHC and ATLC (ONLY lower in beach mode) 3. MC beach mode "xmit power" is reduced from other MC modes, BUT -- reduced to the level of EQX STANDARD modes... 4. EQX beach mode "xmit power" was the lowest of all, lower than EQX standard modes, and MUCH lower than MC standard modes AND beach modes... Interesting. And please, if anyone more knowledgeable about electricity/electronics than I can point out flaws in my understanding, please do! I would like to understand this properly... Steve
  3. JCR -- it kind of SEEMS that way...but not sure...and I doubt we'll ever know. Shelton -- to clarify, you started out in HC, and then switched to LC and changed a few other settings, and as a result, you were able to have better success? Steve
  4. Rattlehead, Very hard to say, as I don't have enough hours on the machine to get a feel for how accurate the IDs SHOULD be... Interesting that you say that though...I dug a roughly 6" deep Roosevelt silver dime, and the ID was bouncing between 60s and 90s...and I assumed it must have been on edge, due to the way it ID'd. But, maybe it was partly due to the ATLC... Hunterjunk, I hear you! That's how I felt! The machine got so quiet when I switched out of ATHC, that I started thinking something was wrong! 🙂 I'm going to try All-Terrain General, soon...but might stick with ATLC for a bit...though I think Rattlehead may be right, now that I think more about it. I think VDI will suffer, in low conductor mode... Steve
  5. Hey all. Just a brief post here (at least, brief by my standards, LOL) to share something quick that I've learned so far... I primarily hunt DEEP old coins, and I generally hunt areas in central Oklahoma, where irony-red clay prevails. This dirt is problematic, for many machines...so that's some background, for context. SO FAR, in my dirt, I've found that running the Manticore in All-Terrain High Conductors is very difficult, when nails and such abound. The high-tone falsing is very problematic. It's NOT that I can't figure out what is a false, and what might be a "real" high-conductive non-ferrous target. BUT -- it DOES require me to stop, and spend a couple of seconds "interrogating" the target, to confirm that it's a likely a "false." And so, the issue is, in areas with abundant iron objects in the ground, I am stopping CONSTANTLY to confirm each one of those high tones...and thus, I'm not able to cover ground, being instead "detained" by the abundant high tones I'm hearing. Finally, during my last hunt, being barraged by high-tone falses, I cried "uncle," and switched to All-Terrain Low Conductors and...what a NIGHT AND DAY difference. I was literally SHOCKED, within about 5 seconds of switching modes. The high-tone falsing was cut IMMEDIATELY by 90 to 95%... The other benefit, was that I was having to lower sensitivity lower than I wanted to, when in ATHC, trying to combat the high-tone iron falsing. While the EMI conditions would have allowed higher sensitivity settings, I had lowered to 21/22, trying to "calm down" the falsing, but with very little success. Obviously, I could have gone even lower, and maybe, eventually, found a setting that would reduce some of the falsing noise, BUT, given that I was targeting very deep coins, in a heavily hunted park, I felt that I would have been sabotaging my efforts to lower it much further. BUT -- after switching to ATLC, and re-ground-balancing and a new "long-press" noise cancel, I was able to move my sensitivity up substantially. I ended up running it at 27 to 28 the remainder of the day, that being the level that was just below where EMI would have become audible...just on the "edge," so to speak. So, I just wanted to toss that out there, for anyone finding that the machine, in their dirt, is especially "falsy" on nails/iron. I will try All-Terrain General, as well, in subsequent hunts, but for now, I'm going to stick with ATLC, as it is an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT MACHINE for me, in my dirt, changing to this mode. Steve
  6. THANKS for the confirmation, Hunterjunk. I'm glad to know that it's not my battery that's the issue, just the nature of the "Beast" (no pun intended!) Steve
  7. rvpopeye -- THANK YOU! Kent -- I appreciate the kind words! Steve
  8. abenson -- I am trying to follow your post, which is very interesting, but it's missing a couple of details I'd like to hear. SO -- forget about your disc pattern for now, I just want to focus on your "iron mask" (i.e. taking the machine out of all-metal mode, and allowing the "factory" ferrous limits settings to be your "iron disc" or "iron mask"). IN OTHER WORDS, no iron audio at all, correct? SO, when you say non-ferrous targets "masked by iron" in open screen, suddenly become "non-ferrous tones" when you turn "iron mask" on, are you saying that if you sweep one of these targets in question with open screen, you hear ONLY iron grunts, and NOTHING MORE, but then you turn your "iron mask" on, which eliminates the iron grunts, and NOW you are hearing a good, diggable high tone? It went from PURE iron grunts to PURE high tone, by switching from "all-metal" to "iron mask on?" Steve
  9. Al -- $69 plus $11 shipping is what I plan to sell them at (for a standard length one; tall-man ones will be $10 more). But, I will offer them at a $65 "introductory sale price" initially... So in your case, two of them would be $140 total (shipped). Just let me know if you would like me to mark you down on the wait list... Thanks! Steve
  10. Interesting post, basstrackerman, and one I'll like to see the responses to. I have only about 10 hours on my MC, so nowhere near enough experience to comment. I'll be interested in the other comments... Steve
  11. Thanks for all of this terrific information! Steve
  12. GB -- I totally agree on your "point number two." That's what I plan...a way to attach it -- Velcro? Otherwise? And then, attach it under the arm cuff (i.e. attach to the arm cuff stand). Yes, it would act as a counterweight, and yes, that would help, with the MC. With your point number one, the only reason I wanted to do it the other way -- i.e. attach it at the BEGINNING of a long hunt, is that I was concerned that if the battery went dead, that a portable charger would not supply enough power to "keep up with" the power demands of the unit. But, if it can, then your way of doing it should be fine (and Chase's email seems to suggest that this would work, as well, from what I can tell, though I am admittedly not nearly as well-versed in electrical concepts as I'd like to be). Steve
  13. THANKS, Chase! I can't find all the specs, but here's the one I decided on; hopefully it will work well. It's only 12W, but should be thus able to supply 5 volts at slightly over 2 amps, right? Anker 321 Power Bank (PowerCore 5K) - Anker US Steve
  14. Al F -- You have not contacted me, LOL! 🙂 I expect to have carbon-fiber 700/900 lower rods available in 3 to 4 weeks... Steve www.stevesdetectorrods.com www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods email: steve@stevesdetectorrods.com
  15. So, longbow, was the MC "dead" when you turned on the backup power source? If so, you got about 7 hours... Steve
  16. Dave, good info, thanks. That's much bigger than I'd hope; what about this one... Anker 321 Power Bank (PowerCore 5K), 5,200mAh Portable Charger, Compatible with iPhone 13 and 12 Series, Samsung, Google Pixel, LG, and More (amazon.com) I know it's MUCH lower capacity (1/4), if it works the same way, AND gets me about 4 hours, I'm good. Another question though, is "what" within the description of the one you linked (the 325 model) shows it to be "power delivery," as opposed to another portable charger? I thought that's what portable chargers DID -- deliver power. No? There's something "special" about a "power delivery" portable charger? Steve
  17. One other thing, I saw where F350Platinum noted in one post that you may wish to get a charger with "Power Delivery," and I don't know what that means, versus just a regular portable charger. Anyone familiar with this? (Calling F350, LOL). Steve
  18. THANKS, Dave! I did see that, but was hoping to do something smaller/less "obtrusive" if possible. But I would be curious to know how that pack is working for him, in terms of "being capable of charging the MC battery faster than it wants to drain, or not." Steve
  19. Thanks for the replies. I do NOT have vibrate, or flashlight, on. I MAY have screen backlighting set to max (never checked, so should be at default), and may have button backlighting on (again, never checked, should be at default). BUT, I charged it all night on a quality Anker powerport smart charger, until the light went steady green, and started hunting about 11 AM. Battery was dead at 5:30 PM, and had drained to "one bar" at least an hour or two before that... The GOOD news, I guess, is that a battery change is not difficult; I saw a video on it, and it's not hard. Anyone know offhand the replacement battery type? I'm not home, or would check the manual. Might be smart for me to buy a good, high-quality one in ANY case, and expect that it's at least possible that I have a dud. Thanks for the info, on the charger, Yatahaze. My only question is, while those are proper "specs," WILL such a charger be able to charge faster than the MC battery wants to drain, so that it essentially keeps the MC battery at "full charge" until it runs out of juice? Hunterjunk -- YES, if you could keep an eye on your run time, before the battery dies, that would be great, as I'd then have a better idea as to what I may be dealing with here. But, it sounds like you are definitely doing better than I am... Steve
  20. Hi all. I know I haven't posted much since receiving my MC; my apologies. I have been so swamped with building D2 shafts, that I've literally been able to carve out hunting time only TWICE since receiving it -- and now have a sum-total of only 10 hours on the unit. So, I NEED MORE HUNT TIME! But, I must say, as much as I like my Manticore thus far, I do NOT like the battery life. I hunted the unit in all-terrain high conductors, which is of course the highest battery-drain mode. BUT, with that said, about 6 1/2 hours, and my battery went from "full charge" to dead/machine shutdown. This will NOT work for me. SO -- I'm looking to explore whether or not there's a relatively small portable charger, that I can hook up to the unit, that will charge the battery at about the same rate as the battery drains. In other words, if I had a portable charger that could charge fast enough, so that IT is what is being "drained" as opposed to the MC battery itself, this would be a solution. That way, when the charger dies, I'd then have the full MC battery capacity to use. From this perspective, what I'm hoping to see is a charger that I can hook up, and for at least 4 hours, will maintain a full charge on the MC, WHILE HUNTING, and then when it dies, would leave me with the 6 1/2 hours of MC battery charge available. That would give 10 1/2 hours run time, and should be enough for me abuot 98 percent of the time. Anyone have any thoughts? I expect it would be EASY to hook up a charger that would charge SLOWER than the MC battery is draining while in use, but that might still leave me with a dead MC battery, and a charger that still has capacity available but can't get it to the MC quickly enough. I want one that will charge FASTER than the MC drains, so that it's the CHARGER that dies, after MAINTAINING 100% charge on the MC up until it dies... Thoughts? Steve
  21. THANK YOU for the kind words, F350! I'm glad you are pleased with the handles, and your rigs look great! Steve
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