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That looks like 18k rose gold, did you test it? What material is that old ring on the bottom pic? I found similar ones out here and thought they are bronze. Good finds

Nice read, so I'm not crazy! Might explain why I and another guy with a Whites with a concentric are doing really well in some trashy areas and others are struggling. I never realized this issue until I got the 10x12 dd on my Tejon and ran into trash in an area I could skip through silently and pick out the good stuff. Thanks

As you see I have disc one that trims out bottle caps at the foil line with the concentric. Disc 2 is where the same cap trims out with the dd coil. I don't know if a dd has narrower magnetic field than my concentric as the concentric on the 8x9 Tesoro is really small when compared to a Whites or Garretts. Scan field is similar to the width of the ATP being 8 1/2" wide dd and depth are pretty similar between the 2 machines. Interesting the clean sweep has similar break as other dd's Other iron break same spot between machines and coils as well as other metals. Anyone have a concentric of any size and can say where bottle caps trim out? Curious on other machines and concentric sizes. As far as trashy areas I do swap back to that concentric and it has plenty of depth for a park. I will give give up the coverage when hitting fields of caps as that concentric I can literally pick out a dime completely surrounded by old iron nails and not hear the iron. Something I found DD's will struggle with as they depend on the angle you approach the targets.

Has anyone been able to figure out why my concentric coil can snub out a steel cap so low which is perfect in trashy parks yet on the DD on both the same machine or my ATP they tone break is so much higher? Is it a DD quirk? I noticed that DD's struggle much more with iron around an object especially if it is parallel to the target ie dime and nail with Tx and Rx cross over lined up.

Out here many of the old trails are still hiking trails and show up on most gps apps. Off of those are the less used hunting trails that when the foliage is up or coming up are thin paths where the dirt has been trampled down. My first detecting is to find shotgun shell ends or brass casings. If I'm finding the lead then I try to find where the hunters had advantage. Often it's just a hillside and lead usually in where there was clearings at one time that you can see by trees of similar smaller trunk sizes. There is LiDar mapping that shows the terrains but to find the area you want is more work and time consuming than walking through the woods. The data for LiDar is horribly unorganized. LiDar does show the land without trees, you can even see paths, roads and foundations.

I thought of that too but it seems to hold fine for him. Is cool how it balances the machine out. I need to come up with an easy clip that attaches to the detector shaft. For now I just toss it in my pouch or dangle off my fingers.

If your not finding old coins, check historicaerials.com that has ariel maps going back to 1938 as well as old topo maps. I find majority of my old coins in the woods. Easy detecting as there is usually much less trash and coins tend to be in far better shape. Copper and Copper alloy coins really get trashed with fertilizer and road salts so I usually don't expect anything great in the farm fields and parks unless they are silver. Do a bit of research and should get you into some good spots.

Gave one of my friends a digger to beat up on and he carries it in a cool way. Tucked in the end of his Nox 800 and it balances the machine perfectly! Gives me an idea to make a clip for it to attach to the detectors shafts rather than a holster or sheath. I'm amazed it fit so easily on the end, would have never have guessed that.

$49 you can't even buy the materials to make one for that!

Stainless that has high nickel content is more corrosion resistant. More nickel the more difficult it is to work with like welding etc and may bend easier. 440 series used in knives is too brittle. Majority of your garden tools are either high nickel stainless and don't hold up well for our type of digging. Some companies use low grade steel and chrome plate them which also doesn't last long. The better choice I found is 4130 chromemoly which has incredible strength to weight ratio, a fairly good degree of corrosion resistance and can be easily tempered. 4130 is typically used in aircraft frames, roll cages in race cars etc. The easier it is to cut, form weld and finish the digger the more cost effective it is. Steel itself has become incredibly expensive lately which doesn't help.

Powder coating is ok on a handle but will chip off on an edge. Best bet is if it's not stainless is to leave it alone or nickel plate them for corrosion resistance. Nickel plating is more durable than a power coat just not as cool looking.

Aliexpress and Alibaba are usually pretty quick to shut down most the scams if brought to their attention. Ebay is probably at the bottom of the list when it comes to enforcement of this stuff. I certainly would buy a machine from any of those sources or even Amazon as they are just merchant outlets. As soon as a scam merchant is kicked they will be back on doing the same thing under a new name. I have bought a machine from a USA dealer that happened to have an Ebay store but they also have a regular online store. I do prefer to purchase from the small dealers for stuff directly when they have what I want in stock. Bigger issue I think is the shopping adverts that direct people to poor sources when they do Google searches or Bing etc. The search engines have been so horribly hijacked with bad data it is almost impossible to find anything legitimate. As long as people are directed in the wrong direction they will continue to make wrong choices.

Maybe Takada airbag company should try that for a business model... Hats off to Nokta for keeping up on stuff, I'm impressed

Never realized it was a pp as well as small detector. That is cool! If I do more salt in the future I might get one for that and leave my reg pp home as I find the reg pp kind of useless once I hit the wet sand. Thanks for the info.

I did send it back and they replaced it. Works better now and doesn't randomly go off like it did before unless im near some bad emi (transformers etc). I noticed that when I put it on I hold it close to the ground initially like the instructions but hold it there for double the time they say and it is more stable if im in bad areas. I wish the first one didn't die as that worked awesome, way better than the 3rd one I have but at least it does the job. Glad I got someone else for the RMA on this one, they where nicer and service was much much better. I do like to run it as high as possible in most cases because I usually cut plugs and like to know if the object is in the plug or not before I start making gofer holes.

Got a pi already, love it but not enough hours on it yet. Snagged a Garrett Seahunter mk2 last spring and only put maybe 20 hours on it tops as the summer here I am 15 min from the beach but 3 hours with traffic.... parking is insane and people too obnoxious so waiting for things to cool down. Wish i could find a Vequero board that would be nice for a fresh water hunter but seems to be only the lobo which is also good. I do prefer manual gb but could live with out it.

Hadn't gone out in a while, weathers been rough and had a miserable cold but snuck out for couple hours and got these. Funny the stupid plastic flashlight was good 6-7" down and not that far away a merc dime on the surface. Next to the merc was the seated an an IH that were bit deeper. Always blows me away when you dig and dig to find something modern yet so many times the old stuff is so shallow.

That's a nice take, no bobby pins?

There is an 8x9 concentric coil that I think is one of the best out there. Gives you great depth and the scan area is small enough you can hit really trashy areas with it. I have that and the 10x12 widescan. The 10x12 give just a bit more depth than the 8x11 so they are almost the same. I have these on my Tejon which is similar to the Vequero but has higher frequency and dual disc. Here is the oddity. When using the 8x9 c i can disc out steel bottle caps below nickels. The larger 10x12 dd those same caps will trim out above ring tabs! No one has been able to answer why that is. I think the 8x9 c would serve you better as you already have a super small coil on the compadre and would fill the gap between hunting areas.

I have a 28" ground shark. Couple buddies have the 36" and use them as walking sticks but I found my larger coils sound off on it so the shorter one I can toss on my shoulder works better for me. It's a really nice digger and does far better than wider blades (less likely to hit rocks). I wish the foot peg was on the inside as it sometimes get's in the way digging deep. If you use it to pop out a good size plug in fields it's perfect. Like all foot diggers I wouldn't recommend using it on groomed grass like parks unless you plan on getting thrown out.

I appreciate the offer but think I too will start off with a ready made board. The doo dad looks like how he can see the coils frequency on the computer using a sound card. That's pretty cool and be really handy on making your own coil. I thought it was just an adjustment done after, was wrong on that. Printing large parts on FDM (Maker Bot style printer) is tricky. You are better off with SLS (selective laser sintering) as the parts are printed without stress and you can use a wider variety range of materials. If there is a printer service over there it might be just easier to send it to them. SLS is much more accurate of fits. My thoughts is to gather all the parts and build my housing around it. I have some thoughts on the coil connection but want to use the ones that come with the original Tesoros rather than hard wire them in which makes it tricky to keep waterproof. This will be a late winter project for me. I just want a machine I can poke around the ponds and streams and when we have iffy weather.

That is really cool. Too bad the vase is broken. What's the brass piece?

The doo dad is to fine tune the coil to the board I believe. I was looking at getting one already assembled as to buy all the components I need might be cost prohibitive as there are minimum quantities. DigiKey is a good source but you can't just buy 1 or 2 pieces. Pots, switches and knobs i found this supplier that seems to have the same knobs that tesoro used http://www.precisionsales.com/index.htm I'm not an electrical engineer but can read schematics and handy with a soldering iron. I rewired and upgraded my little CO2 laser cutter/engraver with a digital signal processor and the machines a precision monster now. I also did build a stud finder that i used for a pin pointer for a bit and yes even adjusting the pots on that was tricky. Really have to balance them out. Curious what you want for the board?

Did you ever get that board assembled? I saw some on e-bay assembled and tempted to put one together with some waterproof pots and Ultimate 13 coil. If the boards do work I am really thinking of making a shallow water hunter and relic/coin hunter.

Ahh 1/4" to small, should be some in a Walmart or if there is a Bestbuy or any place that sells audio stuff. If your hooking small foam pad type headphones to your detector you may not like the sound, they are usually weak and cords too short. For me that is what I ran into when I tried some on my Tesoro. You should have headphones with the coil cord so you have flexibility when you set it down to dig and not have them dangling around when swinging. Just my thoughts.