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That is a cool test though I have neither of those detectors I did that test on my AT Pro with stock and Tejon with both the 10x12 dd and the 8x9 concentric.

The ATP performed pretty much like the test but numbers locked in really good but blind on edge just like your test yet tip and tail hit solid.

The 10x12 on Tejon performed ok but not as consistent as the AT Pro. Distance on tip and and tail about the same, maybe more hard to tell.

The concentric on the Tejon was blind more in one direction than the other. More blind parallel to edge like a dd yet the perimeter of the Rx coil hit solid as if it was the tip or tail.

I'm on my 2nd Profind 35, I can rarely run it at max and it often just falses out if i change the angle on it. When I first put it on I need to keep it close to the ground about 2" facing downward for 2 sec or so to calibrate. I can only run it at half sensitivity.

Even at half sensitivity it does have a good range to it though. It is possible your Profind 15 might be faulty and if under warranty submit for an RMA. I need to do the same.

Been tempted to just leave it in the next hole I dig and get a Garret or maybe Fisher.

Your suggestion on picking those pull tabs paid off this time. Those pennies were right in the range where I would normally skim over or trim out. It's not the detector so much as knowing the machine though the Tesoo's have excellent sound where you can hear the subtle differences between good and bad targets most of their machines don't have a vdi to assist. I do have tons of hours son that machine literally put in 10+ hours a week on it.

Those are my first flying eagles, too bad they are in rough shape. The pine forest really kills copper it seems.

Thanks!

Did a bit more scrubbing and the top 2 pennies are flying eagles, one unreadable other 1858. Thought they were IH's too because the back is similar. Dig those ring tabs!

I usually run with Iron Audio off and discriminate it out and take the first notch out on the left other wise there is just too many beeps to keep track of. I try to run it as silent as possible and the 2 tones is enough info for my brain to keep up. I wish they did have audio adjust on the machine then I could use my sea hunter headphones on my pro when hitting local puddles and not worry about killing the headset. Audio on Garretts has always been brash. Still if I took any one of my detectors camping and hiking it would be the pro since it's plenty rugged.

Dragged a buddy mine to an area where I found a 2 cent. Had my Tejon with larger coil this time around and got a small but nice hit near a pine tree, told him to dig it might be good.

I looked back after a few minutes and saw a huge mound of dirt  so i went back and relocated it. Turned out to be a 4 leaf clover charm gold plated over zinc so I said want it? Might bring you some luck... he said no all pissed off.

Continuing on i found 5 Indian heads with dates from late 1800's to 1908, pocket knife and a barber dime to top it off.

The Charm is now hot glued to the Tejon 🙂

What was odd is the Indian heads showed up as a 60 on his Garrett. Really strange as they usually show up 74-76 on those machines. Even on my Tejon they were pretty much on the pull ring if not on the fringe. Usually  skip those signals but for some reason they just sounded a bit better than a pull ring. Too bad the pine trees beat them up. Think a bit more baking soda and toothbrush will clean them up a bit more.

The At Pro does have adjustable iron audio on/off (zero inclusive). I agree the iron audio should have at least a high low and off on the MAX.

Been using the pro for a few years and never had any real issue with it in tough areas other than simple information overload. I wish I had a finer discrim and cut out iron to alum fringe a bit better but then again that blocky trim does come in handy on those in between hits.  I still find it very reliable. I find more contrast between detectors not so much as their button features but rather are they digital or analog and I still go back to the analog for the majority of my detecting. That is just me and my comfort zone.

I think it is a few factors, yes lower frequency is one but Garrett boosted the power on the MAX. It is chattery if run at full power in many cases. The target ID is pretty stable from what I saw at depth. You should try your Nox at a low khz and you should get some good depth but you will loose sensitivity to lower conductors. Can you run it the same Khz as your Ace?

Lastly what coil do you have on the Ace? Their concentric does go deeper but the inner coil makes pinpoints about as accurate as centering a truck tire.

Last machine I bought this past spring was the Sea Hunter mk2 pi for beach pounding. Got tired of the chatter and fiddling with gb to find anything. Need to put more hours on it but the few times I had it out I find it just far better than a vlf on the beaches around here. Prior to that I picked up my Tejon with the concentric coil for the trashy areas I hit and find more stuff wtih that machine. I keep eying some of the newer machine with vdi's but just keep going back to that Tesoro. Once that audio clicked with my simple brain i found it just too easy to find stuff.

So when companies put in small circuits with caps on them is that to adjust or boost the power on the coil so it better balances with the detector?

From what I understand the coil is matched to the detector and needs to have a certain amount of impedance so if the coil is bigger it would have the same amount of copper just spread out over a bigger area. If there is more copper then there is a chance the frequency will drop and not perform as well. Some if not most companies will have small boards in the coil with capacitors to adjust the coil to the detector.

You planning on making coils? I thought about making a better concentric for my Garrett but they have a proprietary connector that isn't available to the public.

The 10x12 widescan  is 1.285 lbs with coil cover. Air test it hits a med gold ring and nickels at 13.5, pennies and dimes just below that. My air test was don in my basement with extremely high emi and find the numbers are similar or better in  ground. The Tejon has a higher frequency and I believe the widescan lowers that frequency a bit as the tone breaks seem a little off where I can tone out bottle caps with the smaller coil the larger they tend to ring in higher above where I usually run my discrim.

I think the 10x12 would work better on the Vequero and probably what it was originally tuned for?

It doesn't have an adjustable vco audio so my guess is it is like the default variable audio that is on the Tejon. If so you will probably have an easier time identifying objects as the sound varies more than just a flat pitch and not need to listen for subtle rolls or pops. I have both the 10x12 widescan and the 8x9 stock concentric. Though the concentric is shy in depth by 3" or so and doesn't cover nearly as much ground I find it a killer in high trash areas, far better than any dd I have used since it has a small scan area and your not swiping over other trash from tip and tail. If yours has a dd, try to snag the concentric.

Looked at the specs on that it's almost 3 lbs! Not a bad design otherwise.

Using a detector or Bobcat and dirt screen?

cool, know what my next purchases is :)

I think the only thing I don't like about my AT Pro would be lack of light for the display that the AT Max has now and no All Metal Mode that is found on the Max and Gold machines and lastly can't adjust the iron audio tone and make it a bit quieter.

I had purchased my Pro well before the MAX came out and was torn between the Pro and Gold units. Ended up with the Pro as it was usable at the beach in it's day. Run mine mostly in zero mode.

Overall no regrets, Garrett makes some extremely durable machines. Be cool if someone came up with a collapsible shaft for hiking. Shaft system like that should work on the Ace series as well.

If your doing good with the AT Pro you might want to check out the MAX. Interface is very similar and it has incredible depth. Target id's and gb numbers run identical to the AT Pro from my experience. My buddy is new to detecting and has one.

Weight test would be crucial as another alloy or plated material won't be the same. How far off is the weight?

https://www.uncommonwisdomdaily.com/counterfeit-gold-heres-can-tell-23868

There is a check list of tests listed towards the bottom of the page.

Garrett seems to do well with their security division and they are very conservative and often too conservative on coil designs using the same base forms for multiple machines that is good cost wise but not sure how optimized they are for the different machines. As an example my AT pro i can use the tip or heal of the coil and the target is dead on while the AT Max it is way off as the AT Max is incredibly powerful. I had mentioned before that the AT Max hits the same depth as my AT Pro with a Nel Big coil.

As far as Whites, they have done well over the years as they are often found in most coin and hobby shops. I believe many people buy them because they see them first hand rather than skimming the web and being overwhelmed with so many machines out there.

First Texas seems to do well with the Bounty Hunters as they are all over the place and seem to attract the budget minded and first time buyers. Not sure why they don't do similar distribution of Fisher and Teknetics?

Minelabs made a smart move with the Equinox series to take a chunk out of the all terrain all purpose market but that gap will close especially if the Simplex works well. Will like to see how that pans out.

I think all these companies have too many models that are just too similar and tend to confuse the market. One would think it would be better to reduce inventory on models that don't sell and push more of the better product and reduce the costs/price of those units.

I never understood price justification on similar models that are electronic yet certain ones lack features over the "better" model. The only difference in many cases might be just a rom with a program on it and the cases, poles, buttons all the same. Seems pretty wasteful and a little deceptive.

Did some poking around and found a nice led back light that only uses 3v and tested well with 2  aaa batteries. With that in mind I made a housing to hold it above the detector and angled so it lights the buttons as well. I am thinking velcro would be fine to hold it in place. Still tweaking and adjusting the parts so they can either be 3d printed or I may make a small rubber mold and bust out a few copies in urethane. It won't be water proof as I originally wanted but not that worried as who wants to dig in the mud in the middle of the night... not like the pull tabs are going any wheres right?

Have you hit the are again? If not try digging your mixed signals especially where there are pull tabs. I found a 39 wheatie under one the other day. Don't know how many times I had walked over that spot last few years. Now I have been hitting the same areas again and of course finding mostly pull tabs but you never know.

I don't think that the detector makes as much of a difference as being in the right spot unless your picking at fringe signals. Just the fancier detectors make it easier. Knowing your machine makes more of a difference too.

Passed the image on to one of my customers who does work with the Harvard Coop and knows head people there. She will hopefully find out more on that pin. The new pins they sell have plain text and are far different than this one. Will post what I can find out.

Found this while scouting out another section of woods along a main trail. It's a Harvard Crimsons pin that was gold plated over brass.

Also found a 61 silver Canadian quarter. Got excited at first until I whipped the dirt off the rim and saw it wasn't a really old USA coin :( . Also a musket ball and small round.