kac

I agree the Nel/Cors coils are heavy. I don't use the AT Pro that much and usually if I hit a big field or if the weather looks dodgy. I mainly use the Tejon and considering the 13" coil on that but hesitant as Tesoro's don't seem to have anyone to repair it so not sure if I want to start investing in coils for that machine. I may hold off till next year and check out the Deus or maybe the Nokta Anfibio.

11" coil on your Minelab would be tough to beat with just 2" larger coil. You might be right about getting one for the Tejon.

The ATP with stock coil does about the same as the Tejon concentric with Tejon in discrim, Tejon is quite a bit deeper in all metal mode but that can be exhausting when there is tons of iron bits as you need to constantly flick the 2nd discrim to trash check not having a vdi. Fringe targets might get lost going between AMM and Discrim.

My goal is to hit a nice solid 14" or so which gets me to the clay line in most the fields.

Thanks

I been looking for another coil for my AT Pro. I have the stock and Nel Big and find the Big coil hard to gb in most the areas around me and also too heavy. I was looking at the smaller Nel coils and see that a comparable coil in size to the Ultimate 13 is way heavier. The Ultimate weighs in lighter than the stock coil. 

Anyone have opinions on it's performance ie depth and separation? 

I plan on using it in open fields that have a good amount of iron in them.

Thanks

You may want to snag a book by Chris Ralph called Fists Full of Gold on Amazon. Well worth a read and should be very useful.

I snagged a copy and about halfway through and find it incredibly informative beyond what I plan to do.

So both triggers do the same thing? Just lefty and righty? Be cool if they came out with a similar concentric coil like Tesoro had, I think that small Rx is killer in trashy areas and hard to beat.

Did they work a deal so Blisstool is no longer sold in the USA directly?

For anyone reading the posts on the Vista X and only have a VDI machine may really like the machine. Analog machine really sharpened my skills hunting as you need to have a consistent swing to determine target size and type. Still amazes me that I know what a dime sounds like and a penny etc. and have a good degree of certainty of how deep. There are many targets I would have skipped if I relied on numbers and don't necessarily dig any more or less trash than I do with a VDI.

Thanks for sharing the video Keith

Those are pretty impressive tests for depth, seem to be bit deeper than my Tejon. I actually rely on the signal not cutting too clean, I use the scratchy or marginal signal when identifying targets. As an example if I put my alternate disc to pull tab I can often tell if a square tab is there especially if they are flat as they will have a subtle broken signal.  Another example is if I set the discrim to middle dead on nickel and it is scratchy it is a nickel or in lucky cases a gold ring or ear ring. Bottom of nickel mark is almost always a beaver tail and top of nickel is almost always a smaller square tab.

Over all how do you like the machine in the field?

With the coil on and fresh batteries, does it still do that with threshold all the way down and sensitivity down?

I never try a machine without a coil, I heard it could damage a machine. Not sure if that is true or not or specific to digital machines but never took the chance.

People are selling lobo boards (remakes) online. I had seen a fully assembled board for around $39.

Here is an uncirculated 43. No artifact on the die near bottom left back, letters are flat, talons are above the log.

I brought this to the forms for others opinions because I thought it looked odd. The more I looked the more discrepancies I saw. If I didn't post the link to a particular seller then would your opinion change? People seem to be stuck on how many sales someone has made and a sellers rating over the images and points I had in question. 

I regret putting a direct link to one of these sellers as it created some bias on peoples opinions. 

Lastly if you think about it, lower more common coins that are not typically rated could be easier to pass off to unsuspecting buyers as they are filling their collections rather than high ticket items that people pay for ratings on. Who would pay $20-$50 for a rating on a coin worth less than that? My guess is I may have stumbled on something much more wide spread and probably extends across many other coins of different years.

Only real way to confirm is to get a hold of one of the coins or if someone has bought one

The area around the talons on the real coin are not recessed as they are carved below the log surface on the suspect coin.

Back is the same die on several years on suspect coins.

Lastly the real quarter has sharp edges where the text meets the base as it is milled that way. Suspect coin has soft blended edges as you would see from a model or point cloud converted in a voxel program such as 3dCoat. I know this because I uses that software occasionally.

Maybe you didn't read but I am not accusing anyone and in fact the images posted are the same coin or coin with same oddities sold by another ebay seller and not the one I posted a link to. In the case of these silver "uncirculated" quarters of various years have the same backs and same errors. I don't believe the mint would use the same die over several years as they wear down and make new ones along with fronts at the same time.

My point is to show so people don't get ripped off, that's all.

Doing a bit more research there are several years using the same backs as the one I had in question and sold by different dealers. To be fair and trying not to make direct accusations of any of the sellers and to make clear my intentions is more of a heads up to anyone considering buying to do some careful looking first.

I took better pictures of the 43 quarter I found and have the original images found on ebay so others can compare. Take a look at the feet on the back. Original the feet go above the log, ebay one the feet are deeply carved into the log. Another really suspicious artifact is there is a raised line on the bottom left background behind the text on the back that can only be created if it is in the die itself.

I wasn't accusing a particular seller, I was using the images posted on that one as an example because of the anomalies I saw. The 1943 I have that has been sitting in the dirt for maybe 50 years is in better shape than the one indicated on that listing. There are other sellers with the same year uncirculated quarter with same sunken date and bulging wreath. Further down in the listing there are some that you can tell are legit because the base is even and does not vary in thickness.

It wouldn't surprise me if these guys don't know. I can't imagine how many coins the sell and go through.

Seller feedback really doesn't mean much these days. Aside from that what I spotted on that quarter in particular is there a few with the same artifacts and oddities especially for being uncirculated.

Background should be much cleaner, backs show a brushed surface.

The 1943 is worn down.

The base surface around the wreath is raised. When coins are made they use a flat piece of clay then add the details on top which means the base surface should be the same.

The head is lacking detail in the hair and looks filled in. This is common with 3d scans where point clouds are converted to polygons. 3d scans will also average a surface causing it loose some depth where there is a lot of detail as it appears around the wreath.

Lastly for uncirculated it appears to have some scratches.

I wouldn't trust that piece personally If you look through there are probably tons more counterfeits, I just happen to notice these as I was comparing it to one I have. 

I am not accusing that seller as knowingly selling counterfeits as I doubt they are striking them in their basement. Their source probably is importing the junk in and selling all over.

Just looks way to suspicious sorry.

Sometimes I do a quick search on old coins I find on ebay for quickie reference on what people are selling them for and think I found a counterfeit ring going on. See back of this quarter for example:

You will notice where there is detail it is raised more which leads me to believe that it was created from a 3d scan. I say that because typically 3d scanner will not have enough resolution no matter how good and will average the heights when details are too close and small causing a puffiness in that area. A coin back then was done from a large master and milled on a pantograph milling machine. 

Now coins dies are made from edm (electrical discharge machining) where a graphite master is burned into the die then it's polished.

Anyways the prices on them are ridiculously low and there seems to be a lot of subtle oddities that make me suspicious. The example I showed a real 1943 silver in half descent condition would be around $20-$30 and not $0.99.

Who do I contact on that? Does ebay care?

Anyways buyer beware on that.

Thanks for the tip Chase, cool site he has. His prices are pretty fair actually since the printing seems to be on an fdm (MakerBot) type printer which tend to be fairly slow. Those printers make very durable parts. Alternatively an SLS might be better and quicker but come with a heavier price tag so the part price is probably much more. I personally use an SLA (resin based printer) but the parts are more suitable for masters that I use for mold making as they are not that durable for any extended use.

Did better than a buddy of mine who hit some old ground and found his glasses he lost last year!

Think I would get sidetracked and snag it too if it came with a Tejon. 

They don't do anything different on the Back series on that electronic wise do they?  Doesn't it just have the DD coil and a new paint job?

In any case those analog machines really shine with the lithium rechargeable, just make sure they are the 1.5v aa's.

I don't doubt the Nox does better than traditional single frequency IB machines but it is still an IB machine. Lower frequency machines < 8 khz do pretty well in the salt too. They won't compare to a pi machine that is immune to the salt though.

You are correct on the TDI where it can sort of tune out iron and doesn't have the typical discrimination an IB machine would have. The SeaHunter has a pretty useless discrim and effects the size of an object more than the type of metal. The ATX does have iron check but comes with a pretty high price tag.

If you occasionally do beach hunting the Nox is probably a great choice but if you don't want to fuss with adjustments and don't have a ton of trash then a PI might be a better choice. I have no regrets on the SeaHunter and found turning the power on and searching is more fun than trying to decipher targets especially small targets through chatter. Not everyone would like a PI especially if there is a lot of iron bits ie bobby pins, lobster traps etc. I think it really depends on the beaches you intend to hit.

VLF's in general have problems in salt. I had some success with my AT Pro and great success on damp to dry sand with my Tesoro but I found the constant fiddling with ground balance and sensitivity got annoying. The Nox does do better than most vlfs and I assume still has the same problems. Personally where I hit wasn't all that bad on trash and ended up with a PI. For the amount of beach combing I do I grabbed the SeaHunter MK2 and really like the machine but PI's have their own issues especially with iron bits. 

I am not worried about digging a pull tab or few as gold/platinum tend to be in that range and digging in sand is not exactly tough with a scoop. If you do a lot of beach combing you may want to check out one of ML's Pi units or the Whites TDI where there may be a little better discrim on iron. The SeaHunter is pretty much a turn on and go machine and depth wise probably not a whole lot of difference.

Think I'll do that as a last resort, wish there were wiring diagrams out there on it. My luck I'll have it so out of whack I'll start picking up talk radio. How annoying would that be?

The one with the biq square stone I believe is crystal, I found a similar if not the same type in a park near me.

Nice finds, not everyone finds a Porsche with their detector :)

Wow that's a good price, thought those went for around $450 or so. Did you get it from a reputable dealer?

You will also need a digger of some sorts, hand digger if your hitting parks, headphones and groomed lawns and a pin pointer.

Let me know how that detector works out, might get one for my nephews.

Ahh good, thought it might be like an iPhone or iPad. That would be a pain.

What do they do with the Nox if the battery pack dies is that not built in on the unit?

I looked up the BH Land Ranger Pro and that is pretty pricey for what it seems to be. Garrett has a sport package on their AT Pro at 488 that is not much more. Note the standard AT Pro ships for 552 with headphones and standard 8 1/2 x 11 coil. Sport package has the 5x8 coil and no headphones. The slightly smaller coil works very well in trashy areas and there are tons of coil options out there for the AT Pro. It is also water proof to 10 ft. I have had mine for a  few years and no complaints as it is a proven stable machine and very durable. Fisher, Teknetics and BH are under the same holding company First Texas and it looks like they share components such as coil castings, logic boxes etc across some models so hopefully someone that has those machines can chime in. All 3 of the First Texas companies seem to carry a 5 year warranty. Garrett has a 2 year but I can attest they have some of the best customer service.

Lots of choices out there. If possible see if there is a local dealer you can take a machine for a swing and see what you like.

Sorry for the double posting.