kac

You get waterproof headphones for it yet? They have 2, I have the original ones that aren't very loud but if I crank the audio on the MK to max they are fine. New ones have a volume adjust on the cord which I think is a bad idea as it that style the volume switch tends to snag on clothing. I have a pair of Garrets with volume on cord and it is annoying.

BTW machine looks too clean 🙂

Curious about Pitch mode on the Legend. Any demos on that?

Nice Buffalo! Nuggets aren't shabby either :)

EMI causes spikes in the signal making id's jump. Some frequencies have more obvious flutter than others. If you have issues with id's that don't seem accurate then try testing the individual fequencies one at a time. You will probably find one of them giving poor results and others more steady.

My hunch is emi is a big player in the variations of ID's. If you have any of the frequencies getting spiked and the machine is trying to lock on then good change it will have difficulty or oftne lock on to a different number. Easy test is to try cycling through the single frequency modes to see how it behaves.

Very cool!

Most likely there is nothing to worry about with break in. If that was the case the manufacturer would have instructions on break in. When I changed the battery on my phone I had read about break in and running the battery to 0 etc to calibrate. Manufacturer instructions said nothing about it so I ran the phone with new batter as is. Just charged it up and ran it. Had no issues.

So my guess with detectors is if there is a need to break the battery in they either do it at the factory or it isn't necessary.

Nice merc, sometimes silvers and even clad can have off numbers or different phase. Finding that in a soccer field that is very iron rich as it is near some wet lands. Grass roots are deeper than 6" to give you an idea how rich the soil is. Other day dug a bunch of nickels that were above pull tab mark which totally screwed me up, was thinking they were war nicks at first.

You said that the ground has been re-worked, is there signs of any of the dirt being pushed to the sides of the part or did they do a good ole turn it over and cover it up? I say that because the soccer field I been hunting has 8" top soil on top of gravel and well below that is fill. It was once a farm so anything old is long gone. Most the targets are 70's or newer and only found one 54 rosie and a merc in a dirt pile off the side from when they redid the field.

I am doing well sniping out dime and quarters and copper pennies with my Tejon and concentric coil as I am discing out zincs and lower. Got 2nd disc to break on screw caps so not digging any trash really. Something you might want to try. Figured I can always go back and work the below nickel range later. Much easier than getting blasted with tons of junk target hits.

BTW nickels are usually below the square flip tabs, should be easy to pick out at most depths. That is a cool trick you do to identify them though.

Curious, wouldn't you get better results for depth with a pi if the target is buried? EMi slaughters my simple Seahunter in air test but in the wet sand it does well.

Thanks Chase for the info.

As for detectors with built in batteries I wouldn't worry about it too much. Use the machine, and if in the next few years replace the battery or have the mfg replace the battery. Look at how often you charge your phone and how long those last and compare that to the far fewer charge cycles your detector will go through. If it means anything I have many many recharges on my AA lithiums and have had them for a few years now. They still run strong.

I believe most machines use lithium ion and not lithium polymer batteries. Lipo are the older type that had a nasty issue with burning up if damaged.

With that being said I heard that you keep them charged between 50-80% to get the most life out of them. I tried that with my iphone and after a few years the 50-80% part of the battery would discharge very rapidly and the older remaining would discharge slower. My ipad which is older I would run it down quite often but never fully discharge it and charge it fully and battery seems to discharge evenly.

Recently replaced the battery in the iphone (not a job for those with unsteady hands or lack of magnifying glass) and been running it same as the ipad. Will let you guys know in a few years how that compares if I can remember 🙂

Bottle caps on a DD coil ring in pretty high, closer to pennies etc. On a concentric they come in closer to nickels. Most gold is below a nickel. I have found some "gold" rings that came in above nickels  but turned out they were rolled gold and not pure. All my pure gold rings 14k, 10k were below nickels with the exception of a class ring that was closer to a ring pull.

One easy trick for b caps is to set a tone break to hit on them so they give an off sound. Can save ya listening to iron tones. For my Tesoro when using a DD I will put the disc just slightly above iron mark so nosing off the cap will give a crackle, only option on a single tone machine.

AQ falses in salt? Isn't it a PI?

If you have iron audio on can you get any iron signals from the nose of the coil when hitting bottle caps? This is something the ORX can't seem to do.

Ya it seems to be more of a park hunter.

I believe that because the threshold discriminator is software based then it wouldn't behave the same as an analog. I heard it wasn't a depth demon but for most conditions that is not an issue.

Coil mounting about 1/3 up from tail seem to work well for me, still gives me the center to see for pp and don't nose up.

Interesting, I would think the Nox with 11" would do better than D2 with 9". Guess your the one that could answer that.

I do pretty well with the superfly on the MK at the beach, I like the gen mode because big iron will give a bouncy signal in the salt. Depth it does pretty well probably same as a Nox does. Keep in mind I manually ground balance for salt and not a fan of beach mode on the MK.

Not using the 11" coil for the beach? The beach is one place I like the bigger coils, more for ground coverage than the little bit of depth you gain.

So you like the Nox better on the beach over the D2?

That is the stuff I used. Still have a little left. I used it on the potentiometers on my Tejon and it worked wonders.

I noticed that any over spray can collect dirt so make sure you wipe off extra around the connector. Never used it on the connectors on my AT Pro but never had any issues with it. Good chance the connection had some crap on it and just enough to mess up the connection.

If your coil is knock sensitive then check for any cracks on it. I had cracked my stock coil on a log. Just tapping with your finger would make it go nuts.

Those Garrett connector pins are pretty thin. Wonder if that cleaner is similar to the radio shak potentiometer cleaner I use on my machines?

Rear mounted coils tend to nose up but it is so small why not just lock it in place?

Beach combing get yourself one of the wire scoops from RTG. Not very pricey, very light and great to shake out sand. I use one more than the regular scoop. Regular scoops work good in the surf but harder to shake out on shore. Real back saver too.

Looks like your catching on to the D2 🙂

You look on any of the old topos to see if there were some summer cottages that are gone now? I found some around most the lakes and ponds here. Many where in the 40's and earlier. They don't typically have cellars or typical foundations.

Think your almost better off cherry picking with the 3030 or Nox for that instead of a PI. Used my SH a few times at local puddles here and tend beat myself up digging stupid stuff at stupid depths but never really did any better than the ib machines. Amazes me how many bobby pins there are in the world....

Sounds like a nice machine, looking forward to your finds.