kac

Kruzer and Anfibio patch the external battery to the wired headphone jack BUT the external battery has a jack for the wired headphones so it doesn't matter. Legend wouldn't make much of an upgrade for me as the Pulse Dive pointer isn't compatible with the Legend wireless. Not sure why they junked the green wireless hp compatibility. If anything keeping that tech on the Legend and maybe come out with a higher end hp that would also be compatible with the Anfibio makes more sense to me. Coil wise, no concentric option doesn't really give it any edge over the Nox. Just a less expensive Nox alternative as far as I see. I kind of wish they did their own thing with SMF. Even an SMF Anfibio. The screen layout on Anfibio and Kruzers are well thought out and no digging through menus.

If the external battery pack is like the Anfibio and Kruzer it is an excellent addition. I run my MK off the external most of the time and use the internal for backup. The slight bit of weight is under the cuff and helps balance the machine.

Have you ever tried the 6x9 concentric on it? I had the 9x12 but found it on the heavy side. I still like the AT Pro for fresh water hunting.

More than just nails, take a piec of rusty sheet metal and place it above a silver dime or copper penny etc. If your using a DD coil that is SMF you should only hear iron and if you disc out iron you should have no signal. If the sheet metal is small enough the machine may not even sense the target below yet still mask. Now go through the single frequency modes and you will notice that you will pick up on the target below only on the lower frequencies ie <10khz. Preferably 5-7khz is the better range. This is why the Blisstool is able to sniff out targets others miss. It isn't necessarily the coil size but more of finding that sweet spot in frequencies. Alternatively if you have only a single frequency machine that is higher than 7khz then use a concentric coils to pick up the target below. One of the reasons when I hunt and start hearing a lot of iron I jump to 5khz on my Multi Kruzer or Apex or just use my Tejon with the concentric.

There are sites that do that but you need to be a member, blah blah... I don't bother with them myself. Digital spot on the forum might be good so users can download a file and send it to one of the print services like shapeways etc. There was a guy that was making parts this way but I forgot the name and link. He would be more than welcome to print them. I have a large format fdm coming in and plan on making cuffs, coil shells and had an idea on a coil cover design that has thumb clips so it can be removed easier for cleaning or beach/water hunting. I don't like how tight the covers fit on most machines and always nervouse on cracking a coil trying to remove them.

The belt buckle is pretty interesting, looks like they had a bit of history to them. Lucky you got some thawed grounds to dig!

Make sure you get some flux and don't glob it all over.

Nice! Make me want to start a Coin Abatement Initiative 🙂

Button looks like it was gold plated at one time, found similar up this way.

You could solder it for her at least lol. Contenti out of RI has silver solder, small torch should do the trick.

Hunting around obvious iron targets is very different than silent masking where a machine might not be capable of reporting an iron target and instead just masks out the targets around and below. Find a piece of rusty sheet metal, doesn't have to be big and you will see a good example of what happens.

EMI is brutal here, can make many machines almost useless at certain times of the day. I believe it could be the new wifi alarm crap being dumped out on the market.

How do they check iron on a pi? Is it just a magnetometer? Running the SH which is a simple PI, I can only disk out the tiny stuff with the pulse delay but for nails and lobster trap pieces I would wipe out majority of the targets. If I am lucky the iron is long enough and flat I can get a double beep in one direction.

Sound like you need to find an old analog 🙂

Think you need to find someone that works for less than min wage to count the rings...

So there is a sign others detected there! Think earlier Bucks had nickel silver and brass fittings. Still a descent freebie 🙂

Ya different calculator. There are many factors that effect tree growth so I'm sure there are some big variations. Best way is to take a core sample or cut the tree down and count rings but this is non destructive and I'm pretty sure your neighbor would rather have a tree hugger next door 🙂 If you have a tree and know the age simply take the years/dia = factor. I'll check around here and see how the numbers compare.

Found growth factors chart so simply multiply the growth factor with the dia of the tree. I sorted them as many trees have similar growth rates. Site says 4ft up for measurement. They also noted that trees in the open area have lower growth rates. Original source is here: https://goodcalculators.com/tree-age-calculator/#Tree Species & Growth Factors Black Willow 2 Quaking Aspen 2 Basswood 3 Box Elder 3 Honeylocust 3 Kentucky Coffee Tree 3 Littleleaf Linden 3 Pin Oak 3 Shumard Oak 3 Silver Maple 3 Tulip Tree 3 River Birch 3.5 Scotch Pine 3.5 American Elm 4 American Sycamore 4 European Beech 4 Green Ash 4 Northern Red Oak 4 Scarlet Oak 4 Sweetgum 4 Austrian Pine 4.5 Black Walnut 4.5 Colorado Blue Spruce 4.5 Norway Maple 4.5 Red Maple 4.5 Black Cherry 5 Black Maple 5 Douglas Fir 5 European White Birch 5 Norway Spruce 5 White Ash 5 White Birch 5 White Oak 5 White Pine 5 Yellow Buckeye 5 Red Pine (Norway Pine) 5.5 Sugar Maple 5.5 erican Beech 6 Shingle Oak 6 Cottonwood2Dogwood 7 Ironwood 7 Redbud 7 Shagbark Hickory 7.5 White Fir 7.5 Common Horsechestnut 8

Gives a good ball park +- 10 years. I may make a quick reference chart I can print out and laminate.

Awesome. You think about making coils for it? That is one machine I regret never getting.

https://www.tree-guide.com/tree-age-calculator For those that ask why? If you look carefully you will see groups of trees of similar sizes in patches. This can mean many things such as forgotten farm land or even areas that once had structures. Also helps to get an idea when scouting areas that you may have seen on an old map of a given period.

Surprised you went home after 🙂 Good way to end the day on a high note.

Smaller the coils the better the are around trash where targets are close together but smaller coils have less depth. For beach hunting the Raider is a bit deeper than the stock Viper and lighter than the Reaper. Raider is a good choice for beach hunting and you should do well with it. I have a Viper, Ultimate 9" which I use the most and a Reaper. I found that the Reaper strains my elbow if I use it too long. Found it a little tough to work an embankments due to the weight but will probably use it in open fields with low trash. Raider is the same size coil that is stock on the AT Pro and Max.

I hope they do a stock 11 dd and make a concentric coil for it as a package. Big dd's are fine for open fields and beaches but a concentric will do much better in iron infested areas.

I leave mine in the pouch holster. Now if you buy a Deus or can borrow one, can you pair it up and use the lost pointer finder they have to locate it?