kac

Kruzer and Anfibio patch the external battery to the wired headphone jack BUT the external battery has a jack for the wired headphones so it doesn't matter. Legend wouldn't make much of an upgrade for me as the Pulse Dive pointer isn't compatible with the Legend wireless. Not sure why they junked the green wireless hp compatibility. If anything keeping that tech on the Legend and maybe come out with a higher end hp that would also be compatible with the Anfibio makes more sense to me.

Coil wise, no concentric option doesn't really give it any edge over the Nox. Just a less expensive Nox alternative as far as I see. I kind of wish they did their own thing with SMF. Even an SMF Anfibio. The screen layout on Anfibio and Kruzers are well thought out and no digging through menus.

If the external battery pack is like the Anfibio and Kruzer it is an excellent addition. I run my MK off the external most of the time and use the internal for backup. The slight bit of weight is under the cuff and helps balance the machine.

Have you ever tried the 6x9 concentric on it? I had the 9x12 but found it on the heavy side. I still like the AT Pro for fresh water hunting.

More than just nails, take a piec of rusty sheet metal and place it above a silver dime or copper penny etc.

If your using a DD coil that is SMF you should only hear iron and if you disc out iron you should have no signal. If the sheet metal is small enough the machine may not even sense the target below yet still mask.

Now go through the single frequency modes and you will notice that you will pick up on the target below only on the lower frequencies ie <10khz. Preferably 5-7khz is the better range.

This is why the Blisstool is able to sniff out targets others miss. It isn't necessarily the coil size but more of finding that sweet spot in frequencies.

Alternatively if you have only a single frequency machine that is higher than 7khz then use a concentric coils to pick up the target below.

One of the reasons when I hunt and start hearing a lot of iron I jump to 5khz on my Multi Kruzer or Apex or just use my Tejon with the concentric.

21 hours ago, phrunt said:

That looks great.

Someone needs to create a repository of all the 3D printed metal detecting parts for easy access rather than just the big ones with a heap of stuff, a tried and true repository would be awesome.  It's a great idea to get parts that might be otherwise unavailable.

There are sites that do that but you need to be a member, blah blah... I don't bother with them myself.

Digital spot on the forum might be good so users can download a file and send it to one of the print services like shapeways etc. There was a guy that was making parts this way but I forgot the name and link. He would be more than welcome to print them.

I have a large format fdm coming in and plan on making cuffs, coil shells and had an idea on a coil cover design that has thumb clips so it can be removed easier for cleaning or beach/water hunting. I don't like how tight the covers fit on most machines and always nervouse on cracking a coil trying to remove them.

The belt buckle is pretty interesting, looks like they had a bit of history to them. Lucky you got some thawed grounds to dig!

Make sure you get some flux and don't glob it all over.

Nice!

Make me want to start a Coin Abatement Initiative 🙂

Button looks like it was gold plated at one time, found similar up this way.

You could solder it for her at least lol.

Contenti out of RI has silver solder, small torch should do the trick.

Hunting around obvious iron targets is very different than silent masking where a machine might not be capable of reporting an iron target and instead just masks out the targets around and below.

Find a piece of rusty sheet metal, doesn't have to be big and you will see a good example of what happens.

19 hours ago, phrunt said:

At about 7 minutes 30 seconds you show the Target ID on the silver, it's not even remotely what I'd call stable for the ID of a coin that's only a couple of inches away from the coil at the most in what's essentially an air test, is this normal or was that related to the iron nearby or the stability with the crazy EMI, it sure is unstable and chatty with that EMI.  I don't have the patience to run a detector that unstable.  I'm not used to EMI like that though, judging by the recent videos with the other new kid on the block the US seems to have rotten EMI problems.

It looks like it was absolutely vital Nokta incorporated an iron bias adjustment with that detector and I really hope the EMI is better away from whatever is causing that crazy EMI.  I couldn't even use a detector that unstable, I'd really not enjoy it.

Thanks for the video.

 

EMI is brutal here, can make many machines almost useless at certain times of the day. I believe it could be the new wifi alarm crap being dumped out on the market.

How do they check iron on a pi? Is it just a magnetometer? Running the SH which is a simple PI, I can only disk out the tiny stuff with the pulse delay but for nails and lobster trap pieces I would wipe out majority of the targets. If I am lucky the iron is long enough and flat I can get a double beep in one direction.

On 2/20/2022 at 2:00 PM, phrunt said:

I don't know what's wrong with me, I've lost my enthusiasm for new detectors, I used to get so excited about new models, now getting one seems more like a chore.   Perhaps I'm just happy with what I've currently got.

The ferro-check meter seems a bit pointless to me, it's a bit like the gold chance meter on the Gold Monster, you really can't rely on it much.

The Legend ID's seem decent which is a good sign for it.  I do hope Nel make coils for it though.  It'll be interesting how it performs on nuggets with it's smallest coil.

It's good to see new videos popping up from the testers again, I look forward to end user videos popping up in the next few months.

Sound like you need to find an old analog 🙂

13 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

Actually coring (taking a small diameter cylinder of material cut transverse to the age rings) is non-destructive.  I don't know what it costs to analyze that, though.  Likely too much for the typical detectorist.  Studying the tree to determine age is one clue which can be combined with others -- research for sure but also reading of the terrain, etc.  Of course you know all this stuff as it's helped you in your detecting sites.

Think you need to find someone that works for less than min wage to count the rings...

So there is a sign others detected there!

Think earlier Bucks had nickel silver and brass fittings. Still a descent freebie 🙂

5 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

That's a different calculator than the one in your initial post, right?  (The first is based on data taken in Europe, I think.  At least it references a link with a prefix ".de" -- Deutschland, i.e. Germany.)

The current link (quoted here in this post, from kac) looks to be North American species.  But even for that, I measured a pin oak in my back yard for which I have two sources of info on its age, the most reliable being Historic Aerials (other from an arborist's estimate which is consistent).  It was not there in 1965, so less than 57 years of age.  Website calculator says ~92 years.  My neighbor has a silver maple which also wasn't there in 1965.  I could measure it, too, but I'd rather ask permission first.  They'll wonder "what is that crazy metal detectorist neighbor doing now?!" if I just go over and start hugging their tree.  😁

Update:  measured another tree (tulip poplar in my yard) which is also not in the 1965 aerial photo.  Calculator says 79 years of age.  I think both these trees were planted when or right after the house was built (1969 ==> 53 years ago.)  So in my cases the calculator is high by 75% and 50% respectively.  Maybe not quite that far off assuming they were saplings when put here as opposed to seeds.

Rainfall (and amount of sunlight?) has to be a big factor and giving one number for a large geographic area (even if the climate determines where different species grow) likely leads to large uncertainties.

Ya different calculator. There are many factors that effect tree growth so I'm sure there are some big variations. Best way is to take a core sample or cut the tree down and count rings but this is non destructive and I'm pretty sure your neighbor would rather have a tree hugger next door 🙂

If you have a tree and know the age simply take the years/dia = factor.

I'll check around here and see how the numbers compare.

Found growth factors chart so simply multiply the growth factor with the dia of the tree. I sorted them as many trees have similar growth rates. Site says 4ft up for measurement. They also noted that trees in the open area have lower growth rates.

Original source is here:

https://goodcalculators.com/tree-age-calculator/#Tree Species & Growth Factors

Gives a good ball park +- 10 years. I may make a quick reference chart I can print out and laminate.

Awesome. You think about making coils for it? That is one machine I regret never getting.

Surprised you went home after 🙂

Good way to end the day on a high note.

Smaller the coils the better the are around trash where targets are close together but smaller coils have less depth.

For beach hunting the Raider is a bit deeper than the stock Viper and lighter than the Reaper.

Raider is a good choice for beach hunting and you should do well with it. I have a Viper, Ultimate 9" which I use the most and a Reaper. I found that the Reaper strains my elbow if I use it too long. Found it a little tough to work an embankments due to the weight but will probably use it in open fields with low trash.

Raider is the same size coil that is stock on the AT Pro and Max.

On 2/14/2022 at 6:20 PM, Rick N. MI said:

I'm not a fan of the 11" coil either. I would like to see an 8" or 9" round coil and a range of elliptical coils for the Legend.

I hope they do a stock 11 dd and make a concentric coil for it as a package. Big dd's are fine for open fields and beaches but a concentric will do much better in iron infested areas.

I leave mine in the pouch holster. Now if you buy a Deus or can borrow one, can you pair it up and use the lost pointer finder they have to locate it?