mh9162013

Never mind. I saw one of your posts which makes my response moot. Sorry about that.

Rusting shouldn't be a problem as long as you use stainless steel.The problem is that if they penetrate the OEM endcap from the top, that could potentially lead to water intrusion. Also, if they stick past the endcap too far, they might interfere with the 9V battery inside. Screwing into the sides of the endcap might work, though. You have far more plastic to work with.

How would you bond the "T" to the endcap? Is there a solvent that would work? I think, given the forces needed to twist off the endcap, a solvent would be needed, not just an adhesive or glue. Or maybe some kind of mechanical way of attaching it. Another idea is to attach a thick, round disc to the endcap. I'm thinking this disc can be 6 to 10 mm thick. Then in the middle you can cut/etch a line so you can use a coin to twist off the endcap, kind of like what the F-Pulse has. I dunno how durable this would be. You'd need a very durable material if you wanted to keep the round disc as thin as possible. However, I doubt a hard enough material would be able to be solvent-welded to the OEM endcap.

If I had to do that, yes, I'd use some sort of insert/spacer. As for the end-cap being slick, I hear you. The endcap on the Pro-Find 35 was a little bit better, but it was still a bit of a hassle. I noticed that adding some silicone grease (which is a necessary part of maintenance) to the o-ring can help a little bit with the difficult endcap removal.

I'm trying to stick with cells I already have. I have more than a hundred of LSD AA and AAA cells (mostly Eneloop) for all my devices (flashlights, controllers, homemade battery banks, radios, etc.), so I try to stick with my standardization of choice.

I just finished the next iteration of my 9V to AAA battery adapter for my Pro-Pointer AT (Carrot). You can read about it in my blog post that will be uploaded soon (see my profile for the link, if you're that curious), but most of the "juice" is in the pictures. In case you're wondering (or you don't recall my prior blog posts about this building process😞 1. Yes, waterproof integrity is maintained.2. Yes, the performance when using this adapter is identical to using a regular 9V battery.3. Yes, this can still use a regular 9V battery.4. Yes, runtime is less than with a regular 9V battery, but should be enough to get you at least a full day (8+ hours) of run time. I estimate this will get you about 1/3 of whatever an alkaline 9V battery will get you.5. Yes, this can run on other types of AAA cells, including NiCd, NiMH, lithium (primary; think Energizer Ultimate Lithiums) and alkaline.6. I did this modification because I like tinkering and because I really hate 9V batteries. Background info of prior builds:

😄

My "bid" is early 2023.

That explains a lot, thanks! Looks like I have a bit of brainstorming to do...

I've successfully removed 9V batteries from my Garrett Carrot (which now uses AAA batteries) and I've started on the process and getting rid of 9V batteries in my Fisher F2. I've taken the approach if trying to use a single battery to power the F2. A while back, I read from somewhere that the F2 ran off two 9v batteries running in parallel. However, this means that if I use a single battery for the F2, it should work (assuming the single battery has the ability to provide the necessary current). But when I try to use this set up, my battery gets warm. I eventually realized that the Fisher F2 is NOT using a "pure" parallel setup. If it were, it would not be creating a short circuit in my single power source setup. So my question is: how exactly is the Fisher F2 power wiring arranged? It's not parallel and it doesn't appear to be in series, either. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

That's a good deal on a decent detector. I'd go that route. Then use the money you saved on a quality pinpointer.

I've thought about that too, although it wouldn't be a course, but rather, a set location. I imagined it could be a small plastic kiddie pool filled with dry sand and say...6 out of a total of 10 possible buried objects, such as a clad quarter, clad penny, clad nickel, silver dime, silver quarter, sterling silver ring, 14K gold chain, pull tab, iron nail, skeleton key, etc. Each competitor would get point(s) for correctly identifying the object (without digging it up, of course) with a tie breaker being the shortest time taken to complete the hunt.

That's good to know, thanks for the additional info.

What Steve said: contact the deal directly, but do not reveal your pressing need for the machine ASAP. You can mention it after you agree on a price, but whatever you agree on will most likely include USPS Priority Mail at best and if you need something by Friday, you'll want overnight or two-day shipping which could cost a pretty penny. I'd be surprised if you're able to get the 15% military discount on top of another significant cash discount, but I could be wrong. I'm guessing you could get the 15% military discount plus free overnight shipping. That's the best I imagine you can expect. And because shipping is important to you, you might have better luck finding a dealer that's close by, like the next state over.

Your issues seem to relate to that particular battery's physical shape, not chemistry.

I would agree, but apparently there's a difference between the power bank and the wall wart that the Vanquish can detect. I was wondering if it's current delivery capability. So maybe the wall wart can deliver 5W, but the power bank can only deliver 1W or something? If that's the case, it would have to be a really cheap power bank.

So the Vanquish will run off a USB wall wart, but not a power bank?

The reliability is debatable.

I got the impression that one of the issues with the F-Pulse was that it glitched/froze when the batteries couldn't provide enough power to it at certain times. I think I remember reading that someone had issues when using regular alkaline batteries, but when using primary lithium (like Energizer), it worked perfectly.

As long as they are user replaceable common cells, I would definitely agree.

Besides rechargeability, that's an awesome benefit, right there.

I could see something like this...but I don't think it would result in a Vanquish Pro. Instead, there might be an new and improved Equinox (Equinox 1000?) and/or maybe a "cheaper" version of the Equinox line, such as an Equinox 400 or something. This Equinox "400" might be the equivalent of what you call the Vanquish Pro.

Huh, I wonder what would happen if you applied the same logic to insurance. To be fair, I get what he's saying. But I think there's a lot more to the desire for waterproofing than just detecting underwater. And yes, I'm sure he knows that. But he's spinning the best he can (and I don't blame him; he's just doing his job).

Ugh

To add on to what Steve said, it could have been cheaper to use a miniUSB port instead of something else. But more importantly (in my opinion) is that Garrett didn't want to require a proprietary plug/cord to charge the Apex in the field. Just bring a typical battery bank that many people already have (which will almost assuredly come with a micro or mini USB plug, as well as possibly other plugs, such as USB-C).