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About Deep1

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  • Location:
    Carolina Lowcountry
  • Gear Used:
    Nox 800,
    Garrett Sea Hunter Mark II,
    Wore out, still finding, Fisher 1266

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  1. Just received Nox #3. The first two were bad out of box. The first thing I noticed about both of them, when I noise cancel, I had to press detect button 2 twice to return to detect screen at times. This didn't happen all the time, but often. I noise cancel and press detect 1 time and hear beep, but screen remains in noise cancel until button is pressed again. If in NC and 1 press doesn't return to detect screen, I can NC and 1 press a few times and then the detect screen will return after a NC and 1 press. Pulled Nox #3 out of box, connected coil, turned it on, did NC, pressed detect button, screen froze, tried again, same thing 2 or 3 times. Turned off, turned on, same thing. Went to video the problem and it worked like it should 4 or 5 times, before a screen freeze. Does anybody have this issue? Do you have to press detect button 2 times to return to detect screen?
  2. For dedicated beach/water hunting a pulse induction detector is the only way to go. If you have the patience to dig everything. No VLF can compare to PI for depth. For the money the Garrett Sea Hunter Mark II can't be beat. If you want to step up, Whites and Minelab make great beach detectors. Whatever brand you chose, go with a PI for max saltwater depth.
  3. fleaBay doesn't care. Whatever it is, real or counterfeit, when it sells they make money. It you buy a major branded detector from china, there's a 99.99% chance it's bogus. "Pretty shameless - I forwarded the link to First Texas, I suspect that eBay.au will be hearing from them if these re indeed bogus" fleaBay heard from Garrett years ago, but there's still plenty of bogus Garrett pinpointers on fleabay today.
  4. This is not a new problem for Minelab or any other manufacturer for that matter. List of Legitimate Metal Detector Dealers Here's a Minelab update from 2013: https://www.minelab.com/support/stop-counterfeits/counterfeit-update They're putting security stickers on detectors to help identify fakes. More info from Minelab on fakes: https://www.minelab.com/usa/support/stop-counterfeits Known counterfeiters and sellers: https://www.minelab.com/usa/support/stop-counterfeits/known-counterfeit-manufacturers And somebody stole a load of GPX-4500's in 2011: https://www.minelab.com/usa/support/stop-counterfeits/stolen-gpx-4500-metal-detectors
  5. Holy Moly, I had no idea this thread would turn into such a debate. I was just offering a simple solution to a common problem. As can be seen from some of the posts, I'm not the first one to do this, I would guess it's been done for many years by the smarter detectorist. Beach hunted the 800 20 or 30 hours before I drilled drain holes. Have 50+ hours since drilling holes, I see no difference in performance of the 800, with or without the holes. I see a difference in the coil weight when I swing out of water to dry sand, as the coil will drain sand and water quickly. And before I drilled drain holes, I would have to remove cover after every few hunts to clean coil, it would be packed with dirt or sand depending on where I was hunting. Put 10 hunts after holes drilled, beach, surf, wet sand and fine dry sand, flushed with fresh water after saltwater use, open fields, and park before I removed cover. It was clean, no sand, a little fine dirt from field hunt. I did not flush after last field hunts. I drilled only a few small holes for a reason, the few small holes will not affect the structural integrity noticeably and the smaller holes allow less dirt and sand in . I have not found any adverse effects from drain holes.
  6. I don't your location but, I've had the same problem. Tried low recovery speeds and didn't work well. I hunt the waterline and if a wave comes in and covers my coil I will have a falsing problem, til the water recedes. There's a trade off between recovery speed and depth, the faster recovery the less depth. But there are times when slow recovery speed is bad. Saltwater beach detecting is one of them. The default recovery speed in beach 2 is 6. Default sensitivity is 20. Minelab set that number for a reason, that is the optimum setting for the average salt water beach. A higher recovery setting allows the detector the react better to the changing conditions, which in turn allows you to increase sensitivity. Also do ground balance at waterline. From Minelab manual: "The default Ground Balance setting of 0 is recommended for Park, Field and Beach Modes because these locations typically have less mineralisation than goldfields. However, if the ground is generating many noise signals (and/ or the Sensitivity level is set very low), then using Auto Ground Balance is recommended. If the Auto Ground Balance process does not greatly reduce ground noise (due to highly mineralised ground or high salt levels), then repeat the Auto Ground Balance process by sweeping the coil from side-to-side, rather than the standard up-and-down motion." Use higher recovery speeds 6,7,8 which will allow you to use higher sensitivity settings , 20-25, which can offset your loss of depth from higher recovery speed.
  7. Do not use sandpaper to clean contacts, even fine grit will cause fine scratches on contacts. You want your contacts baby butt smooth. I use a pencil eraser or the striker strip from a paper matchbook.
  8. This seller has nearly a half million positive feedbacks. https://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=vette1986&&_trksid=p2047675.l2560&rt=nc&iid=233254189948&sspagename=VIP%3Afeedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller I don't believe he got that by selling fakes. As many coins as this seller has seen, I imagine he could spot a fake in the dark. Lastly, it would be hard for me to believe he would risk his reputation on a fake $13.00 quarter.
  9. If stop blinking early problem still happens after cleaning contacts. Disconnect the cable and reconnect, give it a little wiggle, you might feel it seat differently. And see if the problem happens again by letting it charge. The blinking problem happened on my first 800 one time. I reseated cable and it charged. Ever since I pay mind when connecting charger and make sure it's seated properly. That 800 had numerous problems and was replaced. I attributed the 1 time charging issue to bad connection. However if your problem persist, the problem could be in the control head.
  10. 4 to 6 inches.They ring mid to high 20's. Instead of discrimination, I use tone volume control. I hunt in 5 tone and mute tone 1 & 2 and turn tone 3 to low volume, I leave tones 4 & 5 on 25.
  11. I was typing while you were posting. Your cable is fine, your contacts are dirty.
  12. The connector is designed to slide off, so to say. Not be pulled off. If you are pulling, that could be the cause. I put my finger on side opposite of wire and push, it comes right off. Yes , check the contacts, they could be dirty. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check continuity and confirm it's the cable and not the contacts.
  13. Been working an old railroad freight yard. It is covered in trash, mainly iron. I cannot find an area clean enough to ground balance, I just run at 0. I've found a few railroad tags and fell in love with them. The rarest local history I've ever found. I want to find more. I've dug a few coins from the site, but they are few and far between and come up in very poor condition. I want to concentrate on the tags. They are made of brass and range in size from 1X2 to 2X3 inches and are 1/8 thick. What is the best detect mode to use for these conditions? Any recommendations on settings?
  14. I wonder if a warranty issue arose with a cracked or damaged coil, if they would blame it more on the fact of not using a cover than the use of epoxy. Coil cover serves 2 purposes, to protect the bottom and sides of the coil. I've heard many stories of people damaging the side of the coil by hitting rocks, usually they didn't have a coil cover. A coil cover will blunt the shock of hitting something like a rock and it will least likely suffer damage, as opposed to no cover. I considered epoxy, but the 800 is so nose heavy to me that I didn't want to add anymore weight to the coil. I can feel the extra weight of a few ounces of water when the 800 came out of the water to dry beach, I would probably be adding more weight in epoxy than what water weighs and I didn't want to be swinging that extra weight all day. So, to me the simplest solution was to take 30 seconds to drill some holes in the bottom of my cover. After 2 beach hunts and a dirt hunt, I removed the cover, there wasn't enough sand or dirt to amount to anything.I will no longer have to remove the cover to clean the coil and I still have complete bottom and side protection. Won't have to worry about warranty questions.
  15. What is attached to his shaft at 1:22.? It does not look like my WM 08
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