Skullgolddiver

15 hours ago, okara gold said:

9.4 gram

Were You at neck level depth?😳

9 minutes ago, Tony said:

Is that freshwater inside or salt........sorry to see that picture. 
if it’s salt then you must open her out and flush with demineralised water and then a good flushing with methylated spirits.

It Is saltwater...

As usual I was freediving at less than 2m in depth in the only spot I can Hunt with latest restrictions.

I'll do exactly what You suggested..

Hopefully the coil Is the only broken part.

As I mentioned some days ago, I was afraid to have a non waterproof control box after minor works on the coil's cable and the PCB inside.

The final result of this morning Is been: lot of unstable treshold drift since a few minutes inside the water(no way to calm down the treshold even with GB off).

Some minor short cause I can see the voltmeter crashed and fuc...d up...

After almost two hours of terrible noise and a few real signals, nothing to Say but a finally stable treshold without signals at all when targets were under or over the coil...

This means to me:the coil isn't working anymore...

Maybe the dumping resistor?

Maybe the lower resistance due to the cable shortening?

Nope....The gasket leakage and maybe the connector too.

I don't even have the time to dismantle again today..🤬🤬🤬🤬

Pissed as usual 

Skull

58 minutes ago, GB_Amateur said:

Or am I misunderstanding what you are doing and the problems you are experiencing?

You're right...

I'm just afraid to ruin anything cause of an easy work for I can't consider to send at the factory the machine especially right now with all the delays.

Unluckily Is not merely a gasket problem, but even the plastics are prone to crack.

I'v used this detector for less than ten sessions and for sure I'll never see the payback time with It.

I Also take in account that I frequently pay the bills doing this and unlikely to an hobbyst, this is a bad ending for me.

34 minutes ago, locator said:

Hello Skullgolddiver. You did a great job.👍

Just want to share one thing we did in the past when we serviced sewer laser. Those laser had a condensate outlet device. That only was a larger screw with a gasket ring. When the laser was serviced, closed and sealed we had to prove tightness. And for that we had one of those screws with an glued in bicycle valve. So a little pressure with a bicycle tire inflator (hand-operated) was given to the housing and then the whole laser was submerged. When bubbles came out you could see it was leaky and where it was, so you could seal again. If I had a detector for underwater usage I'd glue in a valve also. May be first add a srew joint which can be replaced if something happens to the valve. Doing this way I always had a little pressure to the detector housing that would prevent water flooding.

Thanks for your suggestion!Really appreciated.

Unluckily I'm afraid to do other works on this machine as I yet noticed minor cracks around the screws Holes and if not properly handled this Will cause for sure a further damage when in use under real pressure.

Right now I'm chewing some coil's winding procedures and meanwhile I have to calm down my spirits due to the fragile patient I have on the surgery table.

After the add on of a voltmeter and a lithium battery and another coil, I'm back to the original setup with only less cable between control box and coil.

On 3/12/2021 at 10:24 AM, Surf Detector said:

For anyone interested in seeing how a Dual Field is put together,  I recently did a video on making one after reading a lengthy thread on the Geotech Forum.

Cheers

 

 

Loved this content!

I hope to find in your Channel something on a plain mono too, as I'm forced to build one on my own, due to a past attempt to change my dualfield with a Detech 8" mono, great coil but for land use.. Underwater Is Just another game and I think Is Better to build a new One in a new empty housing instead to ruin that One trying to open it and modify the mold with new resin.

I Also think to Land  @t 11" 

Nothing too hard even for a rookie technician like me with not so High knowledge on boards whistles and bells...

I'm Just posting a couple pictures at the end of the work, but really (again) misappointed regard the gasket system in the TDI beachhunter.

To give some value to this post, I Just want to Say: please BE CAREFUL doing surgery on this control box, as the plastics are something to severely review to the death White's factory, now Garrett property.

Not only the gasket tunnel between the upper and the lower part of the box is been made to create gasket's cuts and leaks at the first attempt to re-assemble the box, but even a Nightmare to get the job done without the o-ring moving inside and over the PCB when 6 of the 8 screws are already there again....😭.

So this time I'm not so sure to have a leakproof TDI and I swear to want a detector.mod hard case for It.

I Just don't understand why not to create a flat against flat surface with again a flat gasket in between😒😒😒.

White's ...Come on!

(I don't want to advertise for free or without Steve to be ok with these words) so Sorry for complaining with a self exposed solution to this bad thing...

You reminded me when I almost left a Bvlgari Bzero in the trash bin years ago.

Clueless hunt in a trashy and boring area, with only that ring in three hours underwater.

I was so pissed and tired to don't check immediately the find, leaving the beach with the intention to throw all the nuisance stuff in the first available bin.

Damn, that Gold ring was like stainless steel, with the black brand Bvlgari inscription on the side and a heck of weight too!

Inside It, for my luck, a date and a name plus a 750 Mark😆

You are a Warrior!

Truly inspiring pictures for me, so usually badly looking for erosion and gold stuff, that I've lost the Joy To Simply dig and tune a PI.

I ended an hour ago to dismantle and re-assemble my TDI Bh with less coil cable and can't wait to dive again the next week with less lockdown restrictions.

All the best!

5 hours ago, pjrough said:

Speaking on 8" detech coil. Any problems with water leaking inside of the coil housing?

I have mine somewhere. Not tested yet. Waiting for new fancy TDI like this one:

 

 

No leakage for now, but trust me, You might want to open the shell and create a slim open design One...Otherwise Is terribly buoyant and Empty for 95%I Guess.

Excellent work there!

Another One of Yours!

I really love the Pieces You've found, but specifically the pictures of them!

Really nice post mate!

Congratulations

On 4/10/2021 at 7:51 AM, Joe Beechnut OBN said:

I've tested, No performance gain due to the small amount cut off....18 inches a VLF and if I remember correct a subject over on (Findmall) Technology forum many years ago  .......

Only gain I have found .......  less chance of the cable moving or exposure to the conditions, with I have tried several different things, one was running the coil cable thru the shaft.. .. and exact length needed. (both pictured)

I love going thru and reading the old Findmall post with Eric, Wire Chief, Mr Bill, Reg...etc..

The capacitance and the resistance of the coil cable has to be taken into consideration as a total value of the coil.

Depending on the exact particulars, chopping off a lot of cable would change the way the electronics looks at the coil. Adding length would affect it also.

Now in reality I have chopped fairly good sized amounts off of cables in order to permanently pole mount the electronics box. The need to get rid of excess cable length was there. I have not noticed a drop off in performance, although it could happen depending on the unit.

Mr. Bill

 

Re: Coil Cable - straight or spiralled? Frank Hamill Date: August 19, 2002 08:43AM

One addition thing. In the other two PI's I owned in the water the currents of the ocean along with swinging against the resistance of the water cause the coil wire to move...when the coil wire would move the units would give target signals which were not there. After Terry told me about running the wire straight up it still moved in the currents. So I split malt straws and put them one by one around the straight up coil wire and taped them lightly...Falsing of that "type" stopped. A users answer to the problem. However this coil on the Goldquest SS does not need the straws as you put the connection next to the rod connection and straight up is no problem as the distance between the rod and the connection is mere nothing. On my other PI's the distance between connection and rod was several inches and allowed the movement of the coil which caused falsing. From a users standpoint who goes in the water this is a great feature that is needed to be put into coils that are used underwater.
Thank you again....Frank

Coil Cable - straight or spiralled? Eric Foster Date: August 19, 2002 04:19AM

Hi Frank and Larry,
Good to hear reports of the units performing well. There are always some surprises that come back from the field, though. Why running the coil wire straight up the pole rather than spiralled around, should make a difference to the field pattern has me puzzled. One of the properties of coax cable is that there is no external field generated by the cable. Does winding the cable clockwise give a different result to it being anti-clockwise?
How is this change in field pattern manifested?
Do other detectors show this problem?
Eric.

 

Re: Shorter coil cable question. Eric Foster Date: May 10, 2005 05:34PM

Hi Tommy,
Shouldn't affect it at all, as the capacitance of the coil/cable circuit will be reduced.
Eric.

Thanks a loro Joe!And Sorry for late reply!

 

2 hours ago, mn90403 said:

I got an email today from Fisher.  They said they have AQs available for me to purchase!

Now ... how should I reply?  haha

Wait for the summer to happen!

Just the time to see if the final type will appear on the table.

In a way or another, thanks to the italian dealer I'm in partnership with, I'll get one to test and to produce some Footages.

If the meat will be of some value for me, the item will stay there in my home.Otherwise...Friends like before.

Nice stuff!

2 minutes ago, F350Platinum said:

So ya call the tide lines edges

Nope....I'm referring to the pool's edges...Not to mention the deepest central area of them for the heaviest stuff...(supposing to be not on the hump).

Never forget the "trench" shape ...Keep in mind edges and central area of that paradise my friend...

4 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

 

Early on at peak low the above was my view back at the beach. The umbrella is sitting at high tide!  😀

These tidal pools produced some stuff but the real sweet zone was a few feet from the top cut. I found older coins in the pools.

Jeez!

It seems like a not so deep exposed trough with a rip too.

It all depends on ground hardness there.

Pay attention to those almost invisible cuts..............Better to call them edges.......Good luck

I have an easy and maybe stupid question to present now...

Observing my TDI Bh, with both of the coils I own (the original 12" and the aftermarket Detech 8"), I can clearly see way too long wire around the shaft and I'm forced to make several loops up to the control box near the handle.

Supposing to measure the right lenght for the maximum extended shaft, and to cut away the hipmount mile long cable.....Am I doing a disaster or not?

I actually can't remember the technical cable's specs in the amazing pdf Steve posted time ago, but if I'm correct it talked about to reduce some current resistance with a slight performance improvement too...Have I seen a mirage or what?...

I'm not kidding 😜...

It's just me, looking for something to play with, suffering for a missed AQ. 

As a regular fisherman You own inside your brain the attitude to find holes......Be careful then, and for now try to hit a trough...

Congratulations on your hunt!

43 minutes ago, F350Platinum said:

Getting ready to hit the beach this morning. Bringing a CooB scoop today and I had a thought - how far out do ya go? Is there a certain depth that is better than another?

Don't want to "get in over my head" here 😀

If You mean inside the water... Anywhere You feel hard ground under your feets.Before to go inside on the wet and after You're in right in front of that area...

6 hours ago, Joe Beechnut OBN said:

I still love mine, a good time to pick up another. 27 gold with the machine I got from Rick last year covered the price of both. Got to Love this Hobby, and the " Fisher Impulse AQ" ......... Come on Summer.

Second picture is the battery I made for the New AQ, has a audio cut off. And a Excalibur battery...I was expecting 60 hours from it but looks closer to 100+ hours .. same batteries on the AQ last 5.5 hours. 

 

Please Joe...Tell me more about the Excal Dynamite battery...😉

On 4/4/2021 at 9:27 PM, Joe Beechnut OBN said:

I no longer make them... I might suggest hard wiring and specially for anyone diving. 

....

Always a pleasure to see Your clean master works Joe!

Late happy Easter to You...

(I'm not here to advertise other's guys work, but to share my personal experience being a potential buyer for the AQ and as detector.mod big fan).

I was so happy when here I found the way to write straight to Rick and to have finally a human contact with FT.Not to mention the engineer and creator of the AQ project writing between Us!

At that time FT was like offline and the only link to the factory was a decade old website...

Just the time to write to Rick and the first bad news was there for me...No machines outside the USA borders...

After that, I've seen dozens of Joe Beechnut's posts with amazing mods and dreaming to have even a slightly similar setup on my machine...

Months later, a barely appearing doubt regarding the real value of the shell and the juice inside too...

I mean: is it possible that a supposed beach and water detector still is to the point to be water fragile and without a simple TDI like pcd box?

Is it possible that to obtain one reasonably, effective and well priced machine I still need to wait for......? For what? For how much more time?

Can I find a place for it, between my TDI Beachunter and my brand new Excalibur2 (cause I bought it again bored to use a CTX in a "non CTX friendly environment")?...

I'm a diver and maybe I'm asking too much, but the evidence here is clear.

I'd never buy a 2.500USD machine from Texas, to be fooled in Italy without a way to have further assistance for it.

There's still no trace of a sales manager to have an idea of what will be the further evolution of the limited.

Alexandre is been like neglected by FT and cause of this poor details care, his platform is already to be done again, entirely.Maybe his project would have been better in other hands.

I can only say thanks to Steve for keeping me and others constantly updated and to Rick for the prompt answer, even if negative....

Deeply sorry for Mr. Tartar too.

Good job!

34 minutes ago, kac said:

Does the Excall do better in the salt and go deeper than the CTX? Other option I guess would be the AQ?

I own both (again) as I bought another Excal after 9years...

The Ctx is a killer machine but really "conditions sensitive"...

Really good discrimination but the Nox today is deeper and cheaper with the 11" stock and less sensitivity setting.

Lot of the Ctx settings are useless however in the beach and I hate the true threshold on the Nox only in the underwater unusable gold2 mode...

I also tried a pulse but missed the "tone description contact"...More depth but way more time to understand what's worth to dig or not.Slow food machine.

So I ended to buy again an old green rifle that never missed me a shot.

11 hours ago, PPP said:

Hi Northeast!

The place i'm hunting in the water is now almost hunted out and you find only time to time some super deep coins or gold if the sand moves on a good way.I have sea hunter with the big coil as well and even it goes deep,i have hard time to find anything.I know there is still a lot of gold left but deep and my ctx3030 have catch some gold and i'm looking for a deeper machine.The beach is not so mineralized and i can run ctx with max sensitivity.Talked to my dealer and asked about TDI beachhunter but after he contacted the Garrett they have'nt figured out about the selling the unit and right now they don't sell TDI.I thought maybe TDI goes deeper than ctx?

I own two of the three machines involved in your post, so:

Fact no.1

My environment is terribly salty and I can Barely turn up to 25 the sensitivity with the stock 11" on the Ctx, more than that and is useless and unstable.

Fact no.2

I bought the Tdi BH to punch deeper as even here I have an army hunting out every piece of coast around for 400km (seriously).

I learned with it to swing really slower than usual, and had some satisfaction in drained places...But...The 12" coil was making me crazy under 17/15uS delay time and I modified it with a closed shell 8". Worst floater ever used.I can use it to go up on the surface in case I leave my weight harness down on the bottom. Nice pinpoint however, compared with the dual field antennas.

Fact no.3

I never hunt the hump.

Sometimes I'm still fooled by the other half of myself that push me to enter the water even without the minimum clue of some sand movement and anytime I repeat to myself that I'm an idiot, again, another time.

Fact no.4 and conclusion (I swear)

Think about your will to dig so deep, sooner or later You'll find yourself to seek for an old trusty vlf with no more than 10" coil and without screen and bells.

Today I dig anything sounds like a sweet, fast, low tone in all metal and If I want to check I switch to disc........

All the best