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Argyris

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  1. I think you'll be very impressed with their sound quality and volume underwater Joe....! Mine also came with some behind the ear additional earplugs to stay put but don't seem to need it....if you use the right size in-ear plug they won't come out at all...at least in my experience so far! ps. Make sure you bought the ones with the normal lenght 1m cord (cause I remember there is a short cord version also) Can't wait for your opinion when you try them underwater mate! Other than that, only time will tell if they last..so best of luck to both of us with our purchase!
  2. Joe indeed...everything would be so much easier if we could go wireless underwater! Anyway, I may go a step further and buy the bungee wire extension you proposed (or use and modify my minelab's yellows cord to use with the H2O earphones)...not only for better sealing, but to also have some extra length in use while underwater, and also strengthen the first cms of the connection due to the thicker cord of the bungee/yellow's cord (in order to handle the continious bending of the cord to avoid any breakage etc)
  3. PPP, is a really simple mod... First, you have to pierce the original plastic screw cap in the same diameter as the 3.5mm earphones jack elastic body. The smoothness of the hole itself is not critical (I know I could do much better drilling), but the "face" of the screw piece has to be smooth and even in order to have good complete contact with the o-ring when you connect them. (see below) Next and most important, you must find an o-ring that fits perfectly to the earphones 3.5mm jack elastic body, and is wide enough to be almost the same diameter as the plastic plugs "face". W
  4. Thank you all! I have miles and miles of virgin shorelines here to keep me busy for a looong time (all the finds above where recovered from just a short 100m of beach...and with same target intensity every day..will return next week there to find more staff), and also can't wait for some trips to our "hot" Greek islands (mykonos, santorini etc) in the end of the tourist session to see if I can get any "international" gold there! The main thing that gets me so excited, is the luck of aluminum junk underwater...I mean, almost every signal is a coin or lead (ooor something even better..
  5. Hey guys, I've been using my Nox 800 underwater (salt water) for some days now (7 underwater hunts total, about 2 hours each), and thought I could share some first results, plus give a nice and cheap alternative to the minelab yellow headphones for underwater use if anyone interested. My first ever snorkel-dive with Nox in my usual pebble beach was by using just the speaker (no headphones) with my head submerged, and as expected, I soon realized that this wasn't enough...even with my head underwater was very difficult to hear through the speaker due to extremely low volume even in ca
  6. Very happy for the conversation in this thread. All these "negative VDI - iron buzz" testimonies in deep and/or small non-ferrous targets that many experienced, and my own experience with iron buzzes in non-ferrous targets when using max iron bias (as witnessed in 2€ coins, uneven melted aluminum nuggets etc), was the reason I raised this iron bias thing in this beach-hunting thread and looked for answers........cause many of us were thinking that iron bias would only affect unmasking capabilities of the detector in iron-masked targets, and would be ready to use a higher IB setting thinki
  7. +1...and those days that we can't detect (work, weather etc), what's best than reading and learning the key theory behind our favorite hobby & machines...otherwise, all settings would be just "buttons". First you understand what something can do (theory)....then you do it (practice)...then you do it better (time)
  8. We are aligned, so Iron Bias mystery closed 🙂 I only have to test (maybe tomorrow) what's the minimum possible IB F2 setting that allows me to run stable while underwater...I use Beach 2 mode there, with reactivity from 4 to 6 max (whichever runs stable in salt) and sensitivity from minimum 17 to 20 regarding minerals/salt falsing...my underwater seabed conditions are quite difficult due to soft rocks, pebbles and sand mixture of the bottom, and some "black ashy staff" underneath that I witnessed to come to surface may times while fanning to retrieve targets (maybe black sand)..... If I
  9. I won't say much 'cause I don't have enough knowledge to do it, so I'll leave the comments to the experts, BUT I understood all that I needed through your response GB Amateur.....great reply, at least for my understanding level! One comment only: When I realized through my testing as described in this thread, that Iron Bias setting affects the signal of ferromagnetic targets (whatever sticks to a magnet), my second thought was that Iron Bias setting may also affect signals of non-magnetic targets that are burried in ferromagnetic ground.....so a high Iron Bias setting it may give iron buz
  10. correct, so that could explain the iron bias effect (iron buzz when f2=max) to the 2 euro coin only
  11. hmm...GB Amateur indeed, I confirm that both €1 and €2 coins inner part is slightly magnetic due to nickel. (The outer part has no magnetic properties). However, 1€ coin doesn't affect at all from max F2 Iron bias...pure high tone @vdi 22.....Only the 2€ coin gives strong iron grunt with max F2 setting.....(I assume that it has to do with how % magnetic material (nickel) is between the two) So, what does this tell me? That basically, a high iron bias setting gives iron buzz only to ferromagnetic targets that have enough magnetic metal in their composition?...(eg iron containing targe
  12. JB Amateur described very good which targets I was trying to refer, but just to make myself more clear (since English are not my mother tongue but i'm trying to do my best), by the term "bimetalic" or "macroscopic mixed" alloys I indeed do refer to targets that are composed of two (or more) separate metals joined together or mixed inconsistently (not in atomic scale), instead of being a mixture of two or more metals that are well mixed together like real alloys (in atomic scale, hence I used the term "microscopic" for the latest).... There, regarding Iron Bias setting, the answer is yes b
  13. Thanks everyone...going underwater seems to verify everyone's insights regarding beach hunting: treasure/junk ratio is the best possible in the water, vs in the dry part where I have to dig 100 aluminum junk targets for every good target. No light trash underwater since waves take care of them and drive them in the shore...only heavy good targets stay in the water...so I guess I'm already hooked to the underwater thing 🙂 Anyway, regarding iron bias and following GB Amateur, Phrunt and Jeff's comments, when I tried in the dry beach part the other days and used high iron bias to help some w
  14. Well, I finally made it to my favorite pebble beach for a decent 2 hours hunt and thought I should share my results! I intented to hunt only the dry part to make some practice in these aluminum junk targets that make me suffer, but the huge amount of trush between the pebbles nightmare and the fact that the water was so calm and without swimmers, I very soon decided to give it a first try underwater in waste depth while snorkeling with my mask. It was my first time with Nox underwater so I was really nervous to see if it leaks but everything went fine and really enjoyed it 🙂 In my v
  15. Thanks Joe, I'm also waiting for one of Clive's Equinox Skill books to arrive...I love hunting, but also love to read and learn as much as I can about my hobbys when I can't be in the field...and also, being a mechanical engineer, it's in my DNA to learn the fundamentals and interprete the behavior of these machines......! However, Minelab has already done a great job with the factory settings so I keep telling to myself to not overthinking it...Turn on, choose Park 1, noise cancel, GB, adjust sensitivity and go hunting....field time will teach us everything else....it's a fun process aft
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