Jump to content

Argyris

Member
  • Content Count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

61

1 Follower

About Argyris

  • Rank
    Contributor

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I think you'll be very impressed with their sound quality and volume underwater Joe....! Mine also came with some behind the ear additional earplugs to stay put but don't seem to need it....if you use the right size in-ear plug they won't come out at all...at least in my experience so far! ps. Make sure you bought the ones with the normal lenght 1m cord (cause I remember there is a short cord version also) Can't wait for your opinion when you try them underwater mate! Other than that, only time will tell if they last..so best of luck to both of us with our purchase!
  2. Joe indeed...everything would be so much easier if we could go wireless underwater! Anyway, I may go a step further and buy the bungee wire extension you proposed (or use and modify my minelab's yellows cord to use with the H2O earphones)...not only for better sealing, but to also have some extra length in use while underwater, and also strengthen the first cms of the connection due to the thicker cord of the bungee/yellow's cord (in order to handle the continious bending of the cord to avoid any breakage etc)
  3. PPP, is a really simple mod... First, you have to pierce the original plastic screw cap in the same diameter as the 3.5mm earphones jack elastic body. The smoothness of the hole itself is not critical (I know I could do much better drilling), but the "face" of the screw piece has to be smooth and even in order to have good complete contact with the o-ring when you connect them. (see below) Next and most important, you must find an o-ring that fits perfectly to the earphones 3.5mm jack elastic body, and is wide enough to be almost the same diameter as the plastic plugs "face". When you insert the earphones 3.5mm jack in the Nox jack with the above o-ring in it's body, you then screw the modified plastic plug until it's face comes flash with the o-ring and that's it. The screw will move forward the 0-ring against the jack and it will watertight it. Now the water and-or sand can only insert between the plastic screw's hole margin and the o-ring, but cannot insert the jack hole itself. *Joe D above gave a much better alternative (bungee wire extension that has a ML waterproof end and a 1/8 plug end) that I may try also, but as you know, the Nox jack itslef is waterproof inside the tiny hole and the extra o-ring I used is already a step up. Don't forget to rinse after every use and it should be fine! **Another option would be to use the cord and jack of the minelab's yellows that I already have (that would be a perfect solution regarding sealing and strenghtening of the earphones thin cord also, but don't wanna mess with the yellows since they are brand new and nice to have a back-up in my backpack)
  4. Thank you all! I have miles and miles of virgin shorelines here to keep me busy for a looong time (all the finds above where recovered from just a short 100m of beach...and with same target intensity every day..will return next week there to find more staff), and also can't wait for some trips to our "hot" Greek islands (mykonos, santorini etc) in the end of the tourist session to see if I can get any "international" gold there! The main thing that gets me so excited, is the luck of aluminum junk underwater...I mean, almost every signal is a coin or lead (ooor something even better..gold..silver..even relics) and not aluminum at all...obviously, people dont use/through aluminum junk underwater, and even the minimum amount of aluminum is so light that the waves take care of it....And of course not to mention the easy recovery underwater also (just some fanning) witch helps with time efficiency! If you remember my older comments, I had a really hard time in the dry part of my pebble beaches with all these aluminum junk and difficult recovery diging through the pebbles...the underwater conditions are completelly different and remains for me to see if other alike old beaches will behave the same. ps. Chase thanks, indeed..the temperature issue was my only real concern before sealing everything and I was already alerted by a post of yours in another thread regarding the temperature issue..however, when underwater temp is not a problem indeed due to water-cooling effect as you say, and I really don't hunt in the daylight (dry beach or inland) in summer days..only night hunts in dry beach in summer so I will be fine I guess. Furthermore, when I reach to the beach, I try to submerge the machine asap and not leave it in sunlight in order to not have expansion/contruction issues due to extreme temp differences..And of course, same as everything that's used in salt water, a full water rinse after every hunt and some silicon sprey where needed is a total must. However only time will tell if the mods I did will give any side effects, I believe not but will see. Best to all, Argyris
  5. Hey guys, I've been using my Nox 800 underwater (salt water) for some days now (7 underwater hunts total, about 2 hours each), and thought I could share some first results, plus give a nice and cheap alternative to the minelab yellow headphones for underwater use if anyone interested. My first ever snorkel-dive with Nox in my usual pebble beach was by using just the speaker (no headphones) with my head submerged, and as expected, I soon realized that this wasn't enough...even with my head underwater was very difficult to hear through the speaker due to extremely low volume even in calm sea...(however, as already posted in my first topic in the forum, I was still able to get my first whote gold ring with Nox using just the speaker 🙂). Anyway, in my second hunt I bought the Minelab's yellows, but to my experience with them, again I wasn't able to hear the signals good enough underwater due to their low vol especially after some minutes underwater when the soft earpads and the space between was geting full of water. Furthermore, the yellows are huge headphones and I need to be more descret in my beaches this time of year. In my last hunts however, I tried something different and wanted to share my experience...I bought a pair of 100% waterproof and submersible swimming in-ear headphones especially designed for swimming and watersports that had some quite good reviews from athletes around... the product is the "H2O Surge+ waterpoof headphones" (company is "H2O") and bought them for $40 through Amazon...(arrived from amazon UK). Well guys, in my last underwater hunts with them, my experience is tremendously good....their sound quality underwater and their volume is honestly out of this world, and I'm not kidding...especially when comparing to Minelab's yellows. Volume is high enough to hear even the tinniest faint signal and you feel the tone inside your ear like hell... their earplugs completelly seal the external sounds also, and their sound-tones & bass quality is very immpresive for such a small pair of headphones. These small earbuds come with a 3.6ft straight cord so at least for me were comfortable enough while snorkelling and still able to leave the Nox in the bottom (chest depth max) while relaxing in the surface with my mask waiting for the "recovery fog" to leave. Their speakers are 100% waterpoof (IPX8 rating) and can be submerged to 3.5m depth no prob. The company states that maybe sometimes they need equalization (blowing air inside them) but sinnce now I didn't need it. However the cord is thin so you mast be carefull not to stretch it, and if you feel to you can make an easy mod to seal the hole-plug of the Nox where they are inserted (I made a simple yet effective mod by drilling a small hall to the original plastic protective threaded plug of the nox, and used 2 perfect fit o-rings inside to seal the 3.5mm jack connection while screwing the plastic plug...you already know that the nox is waterproof in that point also, but better safe than sorry and made the extra mile to seal it better). As already stated, the H2O earbuds are designed for athletes (especially designed for swimming and watersports) and come 5 sets of earplugs to fit perfectly in every ear...in my ears they fit so nice and they completely seal external sounds and water from my ear canal. Don't wanna say much more about them, and waiting to see how they handle overtime, but as for now I'm totally impressed with them and their volume and sound quality, and my finds went immediatelly up. Furthermore, In fear of flooding the Nox in the future as many other members experienced, and in order to make it more usable underwater while snorkelling, I made some extra mods. I totally water-sealed the machine by: a) using silicon paste inside the battery compartment inside the handle (removable if needed but should be a pain to remove)...b) used marine epoxy paste to seal the control box and screen perimeter where the plastic parts join together, and also sealed the point that the control pad meets the handle (critical point there).... c) completelly sealed and eliminated the external speaker (will never use it anyway)...d) made a custom shaft by modifying the original lower shaft to shorten it and also drilled a small drain hole near the bottom...I know I may void the warranty with my mods, but took the risk and now I'm using the machine underwater with piece of mind. Results: As already said, I have used my Nox underwater for 7 hunts till now...about 2 hours each. Attached some photos of the finds. In these +/- 14 hours I have: - 4 gold rings: All are solid gold (14k & 9k the smallest one), except the large and heavy one wich is bi-metal silver with 14k gold piece on top. (ps. the top white 14k gold ring with small diamonds is the one I posted some days ago) - 1 crusifix (silver with gold Christ) - Almost €22 in change - 82(!) old clad coins (all are pre-euro drachmas..no worth unfortunatelly, but yeap 82 of them in these 14 hours) - Good amount of lead sinkers (including some huge ones) - 2 spoons, 3 keys, a jank pin jewel piece, a junk watch, and a live HXP-95 military cartridge (strange to find it underwater though..!) - Aluminum junk: MINIMUM!..we're talking almost no junk comparing to dry hunt!!! I think I gonna love this underwater thing!!!!! 😄 Ps. My Nox settings if someone's interested are: Beach 2, Recovery @5, Iron Bias F2@0 , 2 tones only (pitch 1 for iron / pitch 23 for non-fe), notch only -9 to -7 to avoid ground/ceramic rocks underwater (all other is open and able to hear iron from -6 to 0 in low vol pitch 1), tone break @0, sensitivity @17, GB manual by pumping sideways (have uneven bottom), no threshold. That's all 🙂 Happy hunting everyone! Argyris
  6. Very happy for the conversation in this thread. All these "negative VDI - iron buzz" testimonies in deep and/or small non-ferrous targets that many experienced, and my own experience with iron buzzes in non-ferrous targets when using max iron bias (as witnessed in 2€ coins, uneven melted aluminum nuggets etc), was the reason I raised this iron bias thing in this beach-hunting thread and looked for answers........cause many of us were thinking that iron bias would only affect unmasking capabilities of the detector in iron-masked targets, and would be ready to use a higher IB setting thinking it should be harmless in the beach where there is no high iron density (so no iron-masking issues). This discussion and the "iron-buzzing" effect that iron bias has in lone (not iron-masked) magnetic targets or targets burried in magnetic ground/sand has proven that, even at an iron-free beach, a high iron bias setting could possibly eliminate some small and/or deep gold even with no iron nearby....and beach hunting is all about gold afterall so.... If gold nuggets (even large ones like Simon's example) or coins (like GB Amateur's Buffalo nickel) are able to give iron buzzes with a high IB setting, I'm expecting exactly the same for a very thin gold chain, earring, or even a ring that happens to be burried in ferromagnetic ground or beach areas with even little magnetic black sand...high iron bias will "filter" this magnetic sand signal, and maybe will eliminate the gold also by giving iron buzz to both of them. Combining this, with the fact that we run the least gold-sensitive mode underwater (very low weighted beach 2) which already works against us regarding small gold, things become even harder. Anyway, remains to be seen if a F2@zero setting is still usable in underwater salt conditions regarding stability (with proper GB, reactivity and sensitivity)...otherwise I'll try to not exceed F2@4 max or maybe I'll try the smaller 6'' coil to read less bottom signals with the expense of area coverage.... something I have to try this week and keep you posted on the results.
  7. +1...and those days that we can't detect (work, weather etc), what's best than reading and learning the key theory behind our favorite hobby & machines...otherwise, all settings would be just "buttons". First you understand what something can do (theory)....then you do it (practice)...then you do it better (time)
  8. We are aligned, so Iron Bias mystery closed 🙂 I only have to test (maybe tomorrow) what's the minimum possible IB F2 setting that allows me to run stable while underwater...I use Beach 2 mode there, with reactivity from 4 to 6 max (whichever runs stable in salt) and sensitivity from minimum 17 to 20 regarding minerals/salt falsing...my underwater seabed conditions are quite difficult due to soft rocks, pebbles and sand mixture of the bottom, and some "black ashy staff" underneath that I witnessed to come to surface may times while fanning to retrieve targets (maybe black sand)..... If I can manage to run F2 at zero with above RE/Sens settings and still be stable, I'll be happy....but I'll try not to exceed F2@4 in any case. I have the whole upcoming week to hunt and practice there so no more pc staff till newer observations 🙂 Already packed my wetsuit, fins, mask, snorkel etc, so I'm hopping for my second gold in this beach...Happy hunting everyone!
  9. I won't say much 'cause I don't have enough knowledge to do it, so I'll leave the comments to the experts, BUT I understood all that I needed through your response GB Amateur.....great reply, at least for my understanding level! One comment only: When I realized through my testing as described in this thread, that Iron Bias setting affects the signal of ferromagnetic targets (whatever sticks to a magnet), my second thought was that Iron Bias setting may also affect signals of non-magnetic targets that are burried in ferromagnetic ground.....so a high Iron Bias setting it may give iron buzzes not only to ferromagnetic targets (eg my 2€ coin example), but also to very deep non-magnetic targets with week signals, because of the ferromagnetic ground around them when using high iron bias setting... (and all these info also enhances the importance of ground balance too, since it's also affected from ferromagnetic ground) This assumption was the main reason to overthink it regarding iron bias (and not only the "loosing 2€ coins issue that I staed), cause it indeed helps to eliminate some unwanted beach targets (which was the main reason to start this thread), but if my beach has ferromagnetic matterial in the bottom underwater (or the same case when inland), a high Iron Bias setting will also run the risk to have iron buzzes even in deep pure non-magnetic targets and will may miss them. All in all, I'try to limit the use of IB to the minimum setting needed in order to run stable, at least underwater in my beach. Thanks for the great reply GB Amateur...all make sense now! (and I guess that maybe I have to change my thread's title, because there is some really useful knowledge in these thread, at least for me) Best, Argyris
  10. correct, so that could explain the iron bias effect (iron buzz when f2=max) to the 2 euro coin only
  11. hmm...GB Amateur indeed, I confirm that both €1 and €2 coins inner part is slightly magnetic due to nickel. (The outer part has no magnetic properties). However, 1€ coin doesn't affect at all from max F2 Iron bias...pure high tone @vdi 22.....Only the 2€ coin gives strong iron grunt with max F2 setting.....(I assume that it has to do with how % magnetic material (nickel) is between the two) So, what does this tell me? That basically, a high iron bias setting gives iron buzz only to ferromagnetic targets that have enough magnetic metal in their composition?...(eg iron containing targets such as bottlecaps, and iron-free but high magnetic targets such as the 2€ coin due to high % pure nickel content)...and that iron grunts from max iron bias is not a "bi-mettalic / tri-metallic" or whatever complex target issue, but a megnetism thing instead. If that's the case, I assume that all targets that are not magnetic, even if it happens to be a rare bi-metallic jewelry (not alloy) that has a silver piece attached to a gold piece for example, should not turn to iron buzz even with max iron bias. I learned something new today for sure so thanks for that info! However I'll stay away from max iron bias setting cause these 2€ coins is our most valuable clad coin in Europe and I expect to find plenty of them underwater while hunting for jewelry. I only have to experiment with the lower or lowest settings and see if I can handle F2@0 regarding stability....otherwise I'll use the minimum IB needed, cause especially underwater where trash isn't an issue I don't really find any reason to use IB at all, and don't wont to risk loosing anything deep that may sound as iron because of IB like others mentioned. Other than that, I'll try hard to not overthink it with the settings and deep-dive explanations as Chase always advices me and correctly mentions in his awesome answer some posts ago ...I know he's 100% right, but my stubborn head doesn't seem to comply... 😛 Thanks again guys
  12. JB Amateur described very good which targets I was trying to refer, but just to make myself more clear (since English are not my mother tongue but i'm trying to do my best), by the term "bimetalic" or "macroscopic mixed" alloys I indeed do refer to targets that are composed of two (or more) separate metals joined together or mixed inconsistently (not in atomic scale), instead of being a mixture of two or more metals that are well mixed together like real alloys (in atomic scale, hence I used the term "microscopic" for the latest).... There, regarding Iron Bias setting, the answer is yes by me....it has a major effect as can be witnessed when set F2@max, and swing over a "complex multi-metal mixture" 2€ coin (Outer segment: copper-nickel. Inner segment: three layers: nickel-brass, nickel, nickel-brass.) vs a 10k gold ring (alloy mixture in atomic scale)....none of those targets contain any iron, but still, the 2€ coin is giving strong iron buzz with F2@max and you miss it, when the gold ring gives pure high tone. Same thing witnessed to some large inconsistently melted aluminum nuggets at the beach as others have adviced me to try...max iron bias eliminates them to! When lowering the iron bias, 2€ coin returns to a pure high tone.....so, based on this 2€ coin or inconsistent melted aluminum experience, I trully believe that a high iron bias F2 setting may give iron buzz (as many witnessed) in some good targets that not contain any iron neither have any iron junk nearby (eg a jewelry composed of different metalls...not alloy, same as the 2€ coin example), hence my comments about it regarding using high IB underwater when jewelry hunting when you probably don't need to due to absence of iron issues. Just an observation anyway, maybe I'm wrong, but Iron Bias seems to not only affect iron containing targets but iron free targets too... so maybe it needs some extra attention when using it. Apologies if I wasn't clear, hope it makes sence now since I was reffering to iron bias properties and how could affect good unmasked and iron free targets Thanks for the usefull comments everyone 🙂
  13. Thanks everyone...going underwater seems to verify everyone's insights regarding beach hunting: treasure/junk ratio is the best possible in the water, vs in the dry part where I have to dig 100 aluminum junk targets for every good target. No light trash underwater since waves take care of them and drive them in the shore...only heavy good targets stay in the water...so I guess I'm already hooked to the underwater thing 🙂 Anyway, regarding iron bias and following GB Amateur, Phrunt and Jeff's comments, when I tried in the dry beach part the other days and used high iron bias to help some with melted aluminum nuggets, I experienced the same iron grunts on many good coin targets with no iron nearby, and I also had iron grunts in complex alloy targets such as bimetallic coins or big melted aluminum...but I''try to describe how I understand it after reading some Clive's posts to help some: High IB settings allow to "brake" and give strong iron grunts in not pure consistent one-metal targets or not good microscopic-level mixed alloys, or targets that are very "grounded" (their metal is very well mixed in the soil such as rusted iron for example because iron especially is more close to the ground characteristics than a non-ferrous), so iron bias reads this inconsistency between ground-metal or between the multiple metals of inconsistent alloy targets and depending of the setting either favors iron buzz or high tone. A shallow gold ring eg. of whatever karats or silver coins (that are well mixed alloys in microscopic level - clean metals- and not multimetal or "grounded-mixed in the soil") always give a pure high tone no matter the Iron Bias setting. However, targets that are macroskopic-mixed alloys or bimetallic compositions, or very rusted-corroded items (eg bimetallic 2€ coins, big melted pieces such as alum nuggets that probably contain other metalls too, rusted corroded coins that behave as multi-metal targets due to rust, bottlecaps offcourse and many other "complex" aloys that contain multiple metalls), with a max iron bias they "brake" and give strong iron grunts because iron bias reads this inconsistency due to multiple metal composition. The same happens with iron due to the "ground-mixed" effect descibed above. I quote some Clive's info on iron bias from another thread which describes what I'm talking about: “Iron Bias” is a filter. Whereas the ground’s signal represents a large, unstable, response, a good target can be seen as a small, narrow and consistent response. “Iron Bias acts to mediate the “line” where this distinction is made. This doesn’t just include iron—but any object which contains multiple metals. So “Iron Bias” can be used to change responses from bottlecaps, corroded coins—anything that’s not “clean” metal such as silver, copper aluminum or gold. What a detector does is to assess both the ground and any metal that’s in it and then separate the two—based upon this consistent / inconsistent scale. This is the scale that an “Iron Bias” control operates on." So from my perspective, this could explain the iron grunts in some non ferrous targets but also explain why very deep targets (week signals) could be mixed with the ground response and give iron grunts, due to a high iron bias setting which acts in the "incosistency line" of ground response vs metal. Regarding underwater, I must play with the iron bias setting to further decide what to use but when unerwater, testing is quite difficult....The way I see it, high iron bias can help to eliminate some underwater-ground & minerals response or black sand incosistent response, but a high setting could also give iron buzz in small good targets or deep ones if ground signal & minerals dominate over them...Iron masking is not an issue when underwater in my beach since there is almost no iron junk, but there are many "ceramic" red rocks and some other black coal type soft ones and also some black sand in some areas that experienced when faning with my hands (one of the reasons I notched out -9 to -7 vdi), so a high iron bias could have a bad effect and give iron grunts in good targets near them.....that's the reason I'm thinking to run with iron bias F2=0 but I must check again if I'll have underwater stability issues due to salt/ground/minerals etc with the lowest IB setting. Thanks everyone for your comments, this first gold with nox was a good boost to continue hunting this difficult beach. best, Argyris
  14. Well, I finally made it to my favorite pebble beach for a decent 2 hours hunt and thought I should share my results! I intented to hunt only the dry part to make some practice in these aluminum junk targets that make me suffer, but the huge amount of trush between the pebbles nightmare and the fact that the water was so calm and without swimmers, I very soon decided to give it a first try underwater in waste depth while snorkeling with my mask. It was my first time with Nox underwater so I was really nervous to see if it leaks but everything went fine and really enjoyed it 🙂 In my very first underwater hunting, I didn't messed a lot with settings but made some minor adjustments..I was running beach 2 mode in 2 tones (set all VDI >0 to pitch 23 with max volume in order to hear it underwater, since I was using only the control box' speaker while snorkeling with my mask.) I also notched out only -9 to -7 to get rid of ceramic rocks and some ground noise and set iron (-6 to 0) to low volume. Reactivity was left at default 6 and Iron Bias (F2) setting also @6. Sensitivity @18 and GB at tracking mode since I didn't have enough time to experiment with auto-pumping. Well...as expected, ZERO JUNK UNDERWATER!!! No aluminum, no foil, no iron.....only good targets. In these 2 hours, I managed to get 30+ (!!!) early clad coins (drachmas of 90s...nothing special unfortunatelly and very corroded too), also found a HUGE amount of lead sinkers, and also found my first gold ring with nox (!!!)...so pretty happy with my first underwater experience!!! 🙂 🙂 🙂 Ring is marked 14k with 7 little rocks and came at a rock-solid vdi of 11 from all directions. Almost all targets where really shallow (the specific beach has a pretty solid bottom - no soft sand at all so staff don't settle very deep I guess....I suppose that's the reason I could easilly find these old drachmas of 90s in no more than 3-4'' deep). However, I do have a question regarding iron bias: is there any reason to run iron bias at zero (f2=0) while underwater in salty conditions? Does iron bias could make me miss thin chains/earrings or other difficult or very deep targets if no iron is present to mask them? Iron masking and junk doesn't seem to be an issue underwater in my beache, so I left it at f2=6 (I prefer F2 over fe) since it was my first underwater hunt and thought that maybe higher iron bias would help to eliminate some chatter from deep salt & underwater minerals...what's your usual Iron Bias setting while underwater in salt? Any pros/cons or tips regarding iron bias while underwater? best, Argyris
  15. Thanks Joe, I'm also waiting for one of Clive's Equinox Skill books to arrive...I love hunting, but also love to read and learn as much as I can about my hobbys when I can't be in the field...and also, being a mechanical engineer, it's in my DNA to learn the fundamentals and interprete the behavior of these machines......! However, Minelab has already done a great job with the factory settings so I keep telling to myself to not overthinking it...Turn on, choose Park 1, noise cancel, GB, adjust sensitivity and go hunting....field time will teach us everything else....it's a fun process afterall and should stay as such! Such a great community in here I have to say...and really knowledged members than know what they're talking about...really glad to be a part of it! 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...