Badger-NH

If you are not passing up targets then there is no need to notch anything, but I can only dig trash for so long. When I get tired after a few hours of swinging, I often start skipping over targets that are not coins. Switching to a coins only notch program at that point allows me to relax and increases my odds of finding a good coin before the end of the day.

Notching 17 and 18 will eliminate Trimes and some Half Dimes. If I was planning on returning many times in the future, I would start by notching out everything below 20. Then as I run out of targets, I would gradually open up the teens. If I only had one day there, your plan seems like a good one.

I didn't read the entire thread either, but I will say, I've been detecting for 25 years and have never needed a pinpointer at the beach. For the dry sand, you want a wire mesh scoop, or one similar to the Stealth above. Either a long handled or hand held type. Don't get the kind with the spaced out round holes, they don't sift well. The hand held mesh scoops are easy to make if you are good at building things. All you need is some half inch hardware cloth, some sheet metal and a pop rivet gun. Nor is there any need for a pinpointer in the wet sand. Once you get the target out of the hole, just kick the sand around with your foot to locate the target. Pinpointers are a necessity in the dirt, but if most of your hunting is at the beach, you don't need one. I only recently started using a long handled scoop on the wet sand. If you are on a budget, a plain old shovel will work just fine and a lot of times, I still choose a shovel over the scoop if there are any rocks around. Rocks will destroy a scoop in no time. Here is the hand held scoop that I made 20 years ago for the dry sand. I've dug holes nearly two feet deep with it and it still works great. 5" x 9" 3.5"

I've dug down two or three feet on some targets. The thought of walking away from large cache of coins can drive you crazy. So far, it has always turned out to be a big piece of iron or aluminum.

I like the button arrangement but the rewiring looks like a lot of delicate work.

I didn't say that you were ridiculous. I said your reason for not posting your finds was ridiculous. 🙂 Who cares if someone might think you are bragging. Ignore them. Their opinion means nothing.

I can understand reason two but reason one is ridiculous. You should never let those thoughts stop you from posting your finds. If you do well, we want to see it.

I would rather see two models. A heavier waterproof model and an ultralight, less expensive non-waterproof model. Waterproof is nice to have but not at the expense of extra weight and higher cost. Water resistant is all I need.

If I'm not mistaken, I think the conversation starts here. https://www.dankowskidetectors.com/discussions/read.php?2,166825,179346#msg-179346

In my test garden, I found no increase in depth on coins below a recovery speed of 4. It's nice to have settings lower than 4 but speeds that slow are not practical at most of the places I hunt. Maybe in some very clean soil with no iron or mineralization searching for larger targets, I might use 3, 2, or 1.

Yes, I depth tested it both ways with DST on and off, and saw no difference in performance. In fact, I saw little if any difference in EMI either, so I ran mine with DST off most of the time. I think I read somewhere that the difference between on and off was very small. Lots of F-75/T2 info if you search Tom Dankowski's site.

As far as I know, you can't have it both ways. By adding DST to the machine, you lose the performance of a non-DST machine. I have both the F-75 LDT DST and the T2 SE non-DST. The T2 is much hotter and gets nearly an inch more depth on a dime. They say the same thing about the original F-75.

Reducing the effects of EMI might detract from the performance of the detector as we've seen with the various F-75 and T-2 models. The models with DST (Digital Shield Technology) are less affected by EMI while the models without DST are noticeably deeper.

I've never heard of water scooters. What is it? Edit - I took me a while to figure out what you meant. I thought it might be some sort of water repellent spray that makes water scoot away. Then I Googled it. You meant add water scooters to the list of things that silicone grease is used on. Got it. .

Silicone grease will not harm the O-ring and will help prevent the metal from corroding. Many manufacturers of products that use O-rings such as camera housings and swimming pool pumps recommend using it. I've been using silicone grease on the rubber seal of my CZ-20 for over 20 years and it still looks like new. It actually helps prolong the life of O-rings by preventing them from drying and cracking. O-rings only need to be greased every 5 years or so. Metal maybe once a year at most. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-O-Ring-Silicone-Grease-Tube-93003/304709587 It should prevent your headphone jack from corroding. Putting it on the threads will help keep water out. Put it everywhere that you don't want corrosion to happen with just a light coating on the jack post. It won't interfere with the connection. Also use it on your rod parts where they connect and the clamps as well. .

The headphones that come with the 600 are cheap throwaways. You will likely want to upgrade to something better. The Trond V4.2 Bluetooth phones work great both wired and wireless. I've had mine for two years. They were about $70 on Amazon. Half the price of the Minelab phones and equal in quality if not better. I find mine to be more comfortable to wear. I also have the Trond V5.0 transmitter which allows me use these headphones with all my other detectors and make them wireless as well.

Thanks Chase, I'll give it a few more tries. .

I was asking if Bluetooth needs to be turned on (top button/left side of control pod) in order to use the module. Since the module runs on wifi, I'm guessing it probably doesn't. Thanks to Valens for explaining that. I didn't know that you have to go through the initialization process again when going from the module back to Bluetooth headphones. That explains why I wasn't able to get my headphones to pair the other day.

Does that mean that the Bluetooth transmitter on the detector does not need to be turned on while using the module? If so, good to know.

I tried the counterweight for a few hunts and didn't like the extra weight and extra length it adds to the detector. I can understand how it might make your slop problem worse. From what I've heard, the counterweight works best when combined with the carbon fiber rod.

I actually prefer using the module. To me it has better sound quality than the Bluetooth in the headphones.

I haven't worn a watch since I got my first cell phone almost 20years ago. 🙂 To me, using the strap allows me to have a much lighter grip on the handle. When I need to use both hands, I can let go without worrying about the detector falling on the ground. The strap is also useful for setting the detector on the ground or picking it up.

Most people would say my arms are long and skinny. My forearm where it goes though the arm cuff measures 10 inches around and I don't have any slop at all with the strap pulled tight. Just out of curiosity, what is the circumference of your forearm where it sits in the arm cuff? Do you have the cuff adjusted all the way back on the rod? It might also be the way you swing the detector. If you swing with your arm bent, there will be more side to side movement in the arm cuff than if you swing with your arm straight. A friend of mine insists on swinging with his arm bent and has worn right through the foam padding on the arm cuff. That's because as he swings, his arm moves back and forth inside the arm cuff even though his forearms are much bigger than mine. I swing with my arm straight and my foam pads still look like new. Swinging with the arm bent usually causes people to lift the coil at each end of their swing. Swinging with your arm straight makes it easier to keep the coil level to the ground as you swing.

Mounting the handle on an S-Rod would raise the control pod about 5 inches. All it would take is some drilling and installing a grip if it doesn't already have one. You would then hold the detector by the S part of the rod instead.

I'm using the green Energizer Vision HD + LED headlamp. I got mine at Walmart for $17. You can also find them at Home Depot and lots of other stores as well as Amazon. I like everything about it but mostly I like that is has the red light for night vision. Energizer makes a wide variety of headlamps to choose from. https://www.energizer.com/lighting/headlights#vhdplh I have two of those tactical flashlights. One is rechargeable and the other isn't. They are sold under many names and have subtle differences. I think my rechargeable one is waterproof. They are both very bright but would be heavy to use on a detector. I do most of my shopping on Amazon these days. Very happy with their services. Especially the super easy return policy.