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Lobo Exp

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About Lobo Exp

  • Rank
    Contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Black HIlls
  • Interests:
    Lots of things. Mechanics, racing, fishing, hunting, electronics, renewable energy and now getting into prospecting. Always wanted to do this and never did.
  • Gear Used:
    Never used any. Just started collecting some of the things needed. Where it says Exp. that isn't for expert, it's for experiment.

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  1. Thing is with this model the board is most likely a multiple layer which makes it even harder to reverse trace the circuitry. The Russian clone model on Ebay is only a 2 layer, conductors on both sides and nothing in between with a laminated board. It's a big enough mess by itself and for sure this model is way beyond that. Is this a replacement board or was it removed by unsoldering the leads? It appears to be a new board with no solder in the J points, so there must be some instructions lit for it. If so, it would be a big help to Trisha providing her board isn't toast now. I would like to k
  2. For sure on that! A schematic would be a life saver. I could draw one up but it would take a fair bit of time to do it. I just don't have one to reverse engineer. Trouble is with the ST is what I have seen as at current here in the photo posted, they are SMD which makes it tougher to do. I have attempted to track down this info myself and spent a good amount of time to come up with NOTHING yet. Someone has to have this info but finding out who is the deal and it would probably require a subscription fee to access that info. I used to have that kind of access years ago when I was doing repair w
  3. Pots inside the housing on the board are for tuning the detectors frequency, discrim, rough ground balance, amplitude, and then there are the volume, fine ground balance, external discrim, sensitivity and threshold on the panel. The ST has a momentary push button on the handle a think for resetting the GB. I think it can be used in auto or manual GB by setting a switch on the panel too. If the photo posted of the circuit board is of a ST, I see 9 pots, and no one has a schematic of that detector or has found one and posted it that I know of, so I can't say exactly what each one does. The phot
  4. Ok I just came back to this post and from looking at the photo, which is kind of hard to go by, you basically have 3 colors of wire, Red, Black and White, I'm going to go out on a limb and state this, most of the Black wires are going to go to a ground point. If you look at the wires going to the dials, these are what are variable voltage dividers for adjusting the detector circuitry. Black wires should go to a ground, red wires are going to go to various points of the board that supply the positive side of the power in the circuitry. The white wires go to the circuit points that are classifi
  5. Yeah my bad, I see that now, I just went by it too fast for it to register and as I was reading and responding, that part of the post went away on my screen.
  6. I saw that, 4 or 5 pin arrangement. I finally found my way to MetalDetector.com yesterday evening and looked at what they have to offer and found several coils that are listed to work with Tesoro models compatible with each other. The prices are not too bad considering what they run for some other Detectors/brands. I don't have a problem with paying $150 give or take $50 for a piece if it's right and since I am not an experienced prospector, (yet) Haha, I only need to lay out the cash for just one coil to start with and make sure my project is even going to work. If and once I get to that poin
  7. I am looking someone that has extra or used coils that are still in decent condition. I am trying to build a detector from one of the Russian boards and will be needing a coil first for testing and later if the detector works, for hunting. It needs to be tuned to 17 to 18khz to work. The coils for Tejons, Vaquero and Cibola and maybe other Tesoro models will function. I don't know that much about the models Tesoro sold and there doesn't seem to be much info on the net about such details. Coils seem to be hard to find for these units also. I have been searching and not finding much. I found on
  8. Well that sounds like a possible cold solder connection. Most of the time when something stops after it warms up it is a component issue. But working when it warms up, I would look for a bad connection first. If the board is assembled with lead free solder, it is more brittle than the older 60/40 lead tin stuff and can fracture at the joints.
  9. If you can post a photo of the side of the board with the traces, may be both sides have traces. I can tell you for certain if the photo is clear enough. I have a board for the old classic in kit form from across the Atlantic I am working on. There should be a Voltage regulator for the board, it has 3 large flat leads, the center lead is the negative terminal, also tied to the heat sink, which should lead to a wide trace that boarders the PCB. The black wire goes to the center lead. The red wire will go to the trace that leads to the end of a diode(opposite end from the white band if the diode
  10. Kind of what I thought too. I understand the old lobo is not top of the line in technical advancement by current standards and have been trying to find out how well people think the Lobo (not the ST) works. I would like to find some boards for a more advanced detector to build. I haven't sold myself on one of the features of the ST, the auto discrim, but it has the option to choose auto or manual from what I have read. I would like to find some parts for some of the other models too, but haven't seen much. I'm of the opinion that the more dials and switches something has the better it works,
  11. I just read something today about the audio battery indicator which I am assuming is a feature of the older units, has been replaced with the little LED placed in the central area of the PCB such as on the Russian Fed PCB offered on Ebay. Since I never had any experience with any of these, I am anxious to get my board finished and tested. I do remember many years ago someone with a detector prospecting for coins and stuff in a local park. I was a still a young kid at the time,( like 40 or 50 years ago) it seems like the thing made so much noise I didn't understand how anyone could tell when t
  12. To Jeff Jones,,, I was wondering if you got rid of the controller you mentioned earlier? I have been working on one of those Russian Federation PCB's for a while now, a little here and there as I can get parts for it. I'm also looking for a coil that is tuned to the frequency this board is running at, 17,5khz. I may give a try at making my own coil, I have some enamel coated wire, but not sure if I have enough to make the coil. Making the form and getting the housing may turn out to be the hard part, getting the proper materials needed for it.
  13. I cannot say for positive on the issue of using a control box without the coil plugged, but I can say that with other circuits like 2 way radios, it is not a good idea to turn them on without the load coil which is what these machines are, transmitter/receivers. 2 way radios are meant to work with antennas tuned for a low standing wave ratio. Take CB's for instance, there are SWR meters for tuning the antenna length. Ideally you want a 1:1 SWR. Different frequency transmitters require different length antennas. Metal detectors work on the same principle. They send out a electromagnetic wave fr
  14. I forgot to mention a neat little piece of test gear that makes working with electronics much less hassle. The little GM328 transistor tester, which tests about every standard component one would work with. Transistors, MOSFET's, Capacitors, Resistors, Diodes, and Zeners up to 9 V, Inductors, and it identifies component leads and values. It will tell you what something is if you cannot identify it by the numbers or color code. Frankly I don't know how I got along without this device this long. It uses AVR C++ code running on a ATmega 328 controller with LCD display. The tester comes in kit or
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