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Cascade Steven

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  • Location:
    Spokane, WA
  • Gear Used:
    Whites Goldmaster 24k; Whites TDI SL; TRX pinpointer

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  1. Thanks for the idea and info. It is always nice to have a few extra "tricks in the bag" for this hobby. 👍
  2. Steve H. Just wanted to say thanks for fixing the ad issue. I like the way you have run the site.👍
  3. Welcome to the forum; glad you chose to join us. 🙂
  4. Welcome aboard. Glad you chose to join us.
  5. Welcome to the forum. Sorry to learn about your father. Congratulations on your finds, and best wishes for your future detecting.
  6. Thanks for the additional info and link. I will pursue this when I have time. 🙂
  7. Looks like a good idea to me, especially in wooded areas. Could prevent some accidental knob movement. I would like to see some more details on how he mounted the "D" rings and whether there was any case modification necessary. I personally would prefer to keep the case unmodified. Thanks for sharing.
  8. Raphis: I just found this thread and wanted to congratulate you on your finds.🙂
  9. Chet: thanks for sharing your insight and experience and marking ideas.
  10. Interesting statistics and congratulations on your success. Best Wishes in your future searches.
  11. For those of us that do not have a 3D printer there is another older technology that is less expensive and will work. To use this technology one must have a sample part, borrow a sample part or carve a sample. This process involves making a rubber mold and casting a fast curing plastic into the mold. When the plastic is cured it can be easily removed from the mold. Because of the nature of the part, an open face mold will work well. One may need to try different plastics to find a composition that has just a little flexibility so that it does not break when stretched or flexed. Many art stores sell rubber mold making kits and also the plastic to cast into the rubber mold. Just a thought.
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