Deep Beeps

On 8/15/2022 at 10:45 AM, Steve Herschbach said:

Yeah, folding version of same one I linked to in my last post. Same price, $117 shipped. I prefer the durability/simplicity of less parts myself, but that version is even more compact for stowing, that's for sure. For completeness, here is the link for the non-folding version also.

Hello Steve,

Leaving to go sniping on July 21st and was wanting to make a Micronox™ to take up the river to snipe & crevice with. What's your thought on submerging this shaft in the river... Im bound to get some silt or sand in something. Probably 50% sniping & 50% dry detecting on the banks/crevices.

Also, for this task, do you recommend the ML 6" coil or the Coiltek 5x9 coil.

Thanks

Got it.... No SP01 here. In fact, they have been out of stock for a while now over here. Were you using it while making these videos?

1 hour ago, midalake said:

Beach sensitive is a clear winner of the beach programs for gold chains. If you are going to use a program out of beach modes make sure you are not handicapping your ability to find gold chains 

Most of my early V.6 custom programs were built off of Beach Sensitive. I used it about 60 % of the time. Beach 30 % and Diving 10%.

18 hours ago, ColonelDan said:

Keep in mind that predetermined settings only get you in the ballpark. It’s up to you then to pick the best seat.    Adjust to your environment.

Of Course, just was wondering how the new software was running with the new added features. I had mine pretty early and figured it out on my own before.... But I've been looking for gold up till the new shoulder surgery and not up to speed on V1.1.

Nice scores!

Have fun over there Rick.... Should be wonderful weather this time of year.

And always stay positive about your finds luck... I believe theres something to be said for that. 🍀🍀🍀

As always Phrunt, well done.

I have to say though, that feels different than my GPZ and 12NF combo, compared to yours. I have loaned mine out to a friend while rehabbing a new shoulder, so I cant do a similar test here until mid August. But I know I've pulled out several .01gram specks at 5"-6" on my combo. Seemingly, more sensitive than what I would gather from the your video here.

Also, amazed how quiet your machine is with those settings. Thats a high sensitivity and threshold combo with no detuning other than the volume is down from what I always run (max). Wondering if that higher threshold might be talking over some of the target response....By chance, is that your typical starting point there in NZ for that GPZ and 12NF combo or X Coil?

If you have a chance, try my above settings next time you have the GPZ out with those same lead targets and report your thoughts.

Cool beans!

Can we see the other side with the wiped out name.

5 hours ago, Ethan in Adelaide said:

Beep, do you think it will lose big nugget with 12 coil than 14?

Im not going to lie... I think you do loose a bit of depth on larger gold with the NF 12, but it's worth it in added sensitivity.

Conversely, you should find plenty of smaller bits at depth than any other set-up out there (Phrunt will make a good case for X- Coils here, most likely a 15" concentric). Think about that last sentence for a minute.... That revels a lot of smaller bits in known spots that GPX's have missed over the years. Even 6K's (They just don't have the umpf to get all the small bits at depth in mineralization).

I have the 19" and, but it's an absolute battle axe to swing all day... But in the mostly flatness of WA and lack of brush, its an option if you want to look for bigger nuggets. It is also surprisingly sensitive on small bits for its size..... Theres the newer NF as well and I've met 2 guys swinging it out in the fields here in Arizona and California, one praised it, the other had buyers remorse over it. I never used it so cannot comment on it, but I will say Im considering getting it next. 

Bogene's Settings came from a guy named Bogene on the Finders Forum that used these settings on his 3500 to deal with bad EMI from thunderstorms in the area. Some have been using it ever since on their GP's to get more sensitivity at depth in bad ground. I feel that it is an awesome all around setting for the GPZ.... But thats were I hunt in the Western USA, not OZ🤷‍♂️.

Here are the Bogenes settings on the Z.

• Sensitivity at 20 (max)
• Threshold at zero or near it... 5 max.
• Volume at max.
• Semi Auto
• Audio smoothing on low or high
• High Yield
• Normal
• Locate patch as a second to last resort in noisy ground

You will have some chatter to listen to but the depth and sensitivity at depth is remarkable. If it's too squawky for your ground, then I would first up the audio smoothing to low... then high.... after that start backing off the sensitivity one increment at a time. But when you start getting below 17 your depth and sensitivity really start to fall off... At least where Im hunting.  If you need to go below 17 in sensitivity then I turn on the "Locate Patch" and back the smoothing back down to low and try to go back up in sensitivity.

I run High Yield & Normal. I never go to General or Difficult as you loose the magic with either on the Z.... In really bad ground, like you'll most likely be in, I would keep backing off the sensitivity... I wouldn't go to General or Difficult first, but only as a last resort. I would slow the swing down and keep using your balance button as you move slower to dull the ground noise... Nuggets will still pop with that sweet mellow Whohoo sound saying "Im gold and I'm down here".

I know a lot of people in western OZ run their Z's in General, Difficult, Sensitivity around 12 and no smoothing. These are completely different approaches to the machine's architecture. In Bogene's you have it wound up and then dumb down the chatter with threshold & smoothing. Then sensitivity. Lastly, Locate Patch.... In the normal approach in OZ you start by dumbing down the machine and then try to amp it up, if that makes sense.

Give it a go next time out. And as I said, it pairs well with that new NF12 your going to be getting. 😉

Just my 2 cents.

7 minutes ago, ColonelDan said:

I merely experimented with Gary’s Sonar program. I’ve not seriously used it for anything yet.  Relic hunts for me are very few and very far between.  
Later today, I’ll PM you my spreadsheet of the programs I use which includes the modified General.

Thank you!.... Thats just what Im in need of after being off the D2 for a year now.

Got it. I thought I had read you were using it on the beach.🤷‍♂️

22 minutes ago, Ethan in Adelaide said:

Hi Fellas I am seeking for some advice. Currently I have a GPZ7000 and GPX6000 both with standard coils only.  I am planning a trip to WA or Tib in NSW either this or next year with dad, so we will use two detectors. I have seem some positive reviews on 12' coils for GPZ7000. I wonder what is your advice? With a GPX6000 would it be a good complementary to 7000 instead of spending another 1300 dollars?😳

Gday Radalaide Ethan,

I love mine. Found more & smaller gold with it since I pulled the trigger. Maybe cause I can hunt longer as it balances way better. I also got a pair of CTX3030 batteries that are half the weight (but last half as long) to also cut weight. Lastly, started running Bogene's almost all the time. that combo is pretty awesome.

Conversely, I was just messaging Phrunt on here and he's not impressed by the sensitivity of the NF12 compared to his arsenal of X-Coils.... But to get a pigtail made and buy an X-coil here in the States is pretty darn expensive (Shipping my 19" to and back to Melbourne, tech fees for making the pigtail + the X Coil and shipping from Kazakstan make it look cheap).

9 hours ago, ColonelDan said:

It's true that the beach programs have an issue with iron separation on buried targets...ferrous and non-ferrous targets on top of the ground can be separated by those same beach programs...a conundrum as I called it in that post. 

However, just going by my experience on the Florida tourist beaches I hunt, we don't run into much iron at all...unlike land hunters.  So until the talented XP engineers can resolve this issue with the beach programs, I'll continue to place ultimate trust in my Deus II, the best detector on the market in my opinion, and bank on the odds that the little iron we do see on our beaches won't affect a successful hunt very much.

As for using land programs on the beach, I have used a modified General and Deep HC but ONLY on VERY dry sand away from any "saltyness."  My experience over the years has been that once you get into even the least bit of sand tainted by saltwater, those land programs aren't effective.  They're just not designed to hunt in saltwater environments. 

Now again, I caveat all of the above in that this is just my experience on the beaches I hunt.  Not all beaches are the same by a long shot.  The settings I use in Florida may not be effective on Virginia or Hawaii beaches for example. Programs and settings must be tailored to the specific environment...particularly on saltwater beaches.

Just the view from my "beachy" foxhole...  😉

Thanks Dan. Your post is what made me ask the original question in this thread as I have 0 hours on V1.1. I had actually used some of the beach programs to tune out EMI while hunting under power lines in coastal Virginia last year in one of the older versions. likely V.6.

The beaches here in SoCal have a fair bit of black sands. But due to fresh sutures I'll be staying high and dry.

What is the modified General settings? Also I see at the end you started using Gary's Sonar program?

8 hours ago, RickUK said:

What is a Micronox ?? has me scratching my head on this one.

 

Looking to upgrade a Equinox 800 to a Micronox. Needing a watertight 6" coil and some waterproof headphones. 

Thanks,

Deep Beeps

2 hours ago, midalake said:

If the Deus 2 did not suffer from Iron-wrap around. One would not have to worry about this!   

Well, I don't think anyone hunts this little beach much so I should be able to pick out plenty of quarters quit easily.... Im sure the rolled up balls of foil will get me here and there.... At least thats how previous versions were. But those small rings and earrings might be.another story by the sound of things.

5 minutes ago, Chase Goldman said:

To be clear, I would go with General on dry sand ONLY.  Although in my opinion, the observed ferrous separation issues are not that big a deal, its not like you are typically detecting in a bed of nails situation on the beach, so I just stick with variants of Beach Sensitive everywhere (the variants are based on the three different FMF Maximimum frequencies that are available now - see below).  If I have my doubts about a ferrous target, I can turn on it or use General as an interrogation program if I am concerned something might actually be masked against a tent stake.  I don't lose much sleep over it, but it is a real thing that has been demonstrated.   If you are in the wet sand or surf, you really don't have a choice for stability and you need to go with beach or beach sensitive (or Dive if you want to go a little deeper on high conductors).

You can go to this thread for more details on what's new with Ver 1.1 (and some of the lingering issues and new quirks) but there are basically four major changes of note:

• You can now adjust the top end (maximum) FMF frequency for any FMF (XP's version simultaneous multifrequency) program - you pick either 14 khz, 24 khz, or 40 khz.  This biases the FMF towards depth and high conductors (14 khz), Middle of the road performance (24 khz), or bias towards micro targets and lower conductors such as gold, brass, or lead (40 khz).
• Full Tones has been improved to enable iron volume to be used at or below the discrimination breakpoint regardless of the disc setting (it used to only work at disc = 0 or below.
• A new audio profile has been added called HiSquare - it is sort of a hybrid between Square and PCM.  Gives you a little more tonal harmonic distortion to aid in audible target ID but not to the extent of the mosquito tones of PCM.
• Finally, XP added a 5 level audio filter - increase the setting and you can get more tonal nuance out of non-ferrous targets which can perhaps aid in depth or identifying the harmonic distortion associated with aluminum can slaw and the like.

HTH gets you started.

Thanks Chase... I was going through that thread and it was helpful. From watch a few videos on Youtube it seems that General is now the "standard". 

I used Sensitive FT a lot before on the fields and Beach & Beach Sensitive in the older versions. Will give the General a try in the next few days around the fire pits at the beach. Lots of nails from pallets that get burned. Also lots of pull tabs.

28 minutes ago, TJ Jeepguy said:

Well it seems the beach programs may have an issue with iron separation, so you may want to stick to General around those areas. Otherwise there’s no magic pill for all around  detecting.  Find some targets in an area try some different programs and settings on them.  Note the differences and enjoy the never ending process 

Thanks....I was just reading the thread below about this. The SoCal beaches are definitely littered with those pesky guys.

I had a pair of Deus 2's that I was using down on the Florida beaches and Virginia fields. Got fairly proficient with the original V.6 but had to step away with some health issues. If any can throw this broken down detectorist a few quick program tips that are really working well in the new V1.1, I'd be appreciative. Maybe just link to a thread will do. Going to be hunting SoCal beaches here after the holiday and then some parks. Abandon mining/houses this August.

Thanks in advance to any suggestions.

Btw... People don't swim as much here due to the colder water, nor wear as much jewelry here like in Florida. Most likely will hit around the fire pits first picking up clad quarters and an occasional earring or ring (dry sand and lots of nails)

If you still have the Bug could you message me. Thanks.

19 hours ago, phrunt said:

I wondered what you were so worried about, just some bees and then I read this

https://www.news.com.au/lifestyle/real-life/news-life/six-people-stung-to-death-by-killer-bees-after-bus-plummets-into-hive/news-story/b8197fe262b580e57f5a019af6a27a03

The main bees here are big old dopey bumble bees and you can give them a pat, they're quite friendly 😉

 

Not the case here in the desert SW.... We have some very aggressive bees. Estimates say that 70 % of all bees in Arizona are Africanized. It's no joke.... Every once in a while someone even dies that wasn't allergic.

On 5/2/2023 at 9:47 PM, blackjack said:

Yes I agree, this is my experience with 'Domestic' bees in my topic " Killer Bees ! Or Famous Last Words " Corey had a bee caught in his hair, which stung him, that set off a rapid chain reaction from the bees. However years ago my wife and I were the target of an 'unprovoked' attack from a wild hive. It happened on the top of a steep rocky hillside, which made a rapid escape difficult I was stung at least 6 times but my wife with her long hair was stung more, about 10-12 times. We were about 20 meters from the hive when it happened. I have no idea if we have/had Africanized bees in Australia. This happened in 1989 in Western Australia at Kalbarri.

Sorry to hear. Ive been hit on occasions over 10 times in the head alone... Im not allergic but couldn't sleep either time those nights from the venom to the thinker.

Murphy's Law... You're always in some tough place when it happens. Never next to your truck door.

On 5/2/2023 at 6:46 PM, paradiceau said:

I had an experience very much like Dirtman mentioned, about two years or so back I was at one of Bill Southern's get together at LSD (Little San Domingo) and was progressing down a wash with my 500 humming along quite nicely.  I may have stopped and removed my head phones I don't remember now.  At any rate I noticed a distant noise which I could not identify and I stood still for a moment listening and wondering what I was hearing, at some point I thought it was the sound of a four wheeler approaching and I was waiting for it to come into view......  What came into view was a dark cloud of beeez, doing what bees do, swarming and I just happened to be under their air space, when I became aware of what the commotion was all about I just lay down in the wash and let the traffic clear....  I lost count but there were a good many in the swarm and they were maybe ten or fifteen feet AGL.  I thought at the time that they should not be a threat because they were just changing locations and weren't at all aggressive.  Since I am allergic to beeez I was very relieved when their tail lights faded into the beautiful evening air.

Glad to hear you got through it. Hope you keep an Epipen around then. I always carry Benydryl with me in case I do get hit by bees or a rattler.

On 5/2/2023 at 11:53 AM, GeoBill said:

I keep bees and currently have several hives but I can only speak to how honey bees behave here in norcal. In general honey bees will only sting if defending their home or if trapped against your skin (stepped on, caught in hair, etc). When bees are swarming, like dirtman described, again they are very unlikely to sting as they are migrating to set up a new hive and are not in a defensive mode. Swarming bees are also engorged with honey which makes it very difficult for them to bend their bodies to drive in the stinger. This is in part why we "smoke" bees when checking their hives - they load up on honey in case they need to flee, and it also confuses/dampens their defense alarm pheromones.

What Deep Beeps describes, "I came on a 4-5' tall creosote bush and was half way under the bush with my coil when I noticed what looked like a dark brown cowboy boot laying near the ground. As I looked a bit closer that boot turned out to be a bee hive", was most likely a swarm that was away from the hive waiting for the scouts to decide on where their new home should be. When honey bees swarm about 10,000+ of the workers and the current queen will leave the hive, find a resting place while scouts come to consensus on which of previously identified potential new homes is the best. This decision process is actually studied in business schools (Honey Bee Democracy). This decision process can take several days so when the bees leave the hive they engorge themselves with enough honey to survive that time. It is very unusual for honey bees to make a hive in the open which is why I suspect that was a swarm, and also why they didn't react when you got close. When capturing swarms I can usually walk up to them and just shake them into a box. Also bees keep their hive temperatures around 95F which is difficult to do in the open, and if you find and watch a swarm it is constantly churning, the outer bees moving inward so everyone stays warm.

Now, to where you were detecting. It's been a long time since I did geologic fieldwork down in Arizona so I don't know how things may have changed or progressed. 30+ years ago we were strongly cautioned to be on the lookout for anywhere we saw dead small animals that didn't appear to be predator kills because there was a potential for a killer bee colony nearby. I've never encountered "Killer Bees" (Africanized honey bees) but apparently they are reactive to movement and will sting and kill small animals that venture too close to their hive. Apparently scavengers and predators leave the carcasses or are also chased away.

I'd love to hear any killer bee encounter stories you all have to share. Anything I could learn about their behavior to make me safer now that I'm retired and hope to get back to the deserts.

Cheers

Great insights GeoBill. It was in the low 80's that day and sunny. I had plunged my coil in pretty close to those guys before I saw them. This explains why they were so docile. Tbh... I was amazed I didnt get messed up but this explains the situation.

Too funny!