PhaseTech

Not sure about the DD part, but if they are wound like the Coiltek AI coils, you can still get Iron ID to work on them. And if you switch into the Mono position on your coil switch, then it will work like a straight mono.

What's worse is watching comparisons videos and they are doing narrow repeated sweeps over the target. Or digging ground noises and not once moving the coil away, pumping it, and then re-checking the area.

Can't speak for others but I'm 6'4" and I can get that Sadie coil much further out in front of me than I would ever want.

100% this! Nice and stretchy, locks the cable in place, and comes off clean. Any sticky residue is easily removed with a bit of WD40 on paper towel. With Velcro wraps, you really need a strip of stick on Velcro on the shaft, and then wrap the velcro strap on this. This way it won't spin.

Well looks like Simon beat me by a day, but I've got a video up showing the user interface in detail and cover most of the settings. AlgoForce E1500 Specifications & Settings

Have you ever used the PM tarantula coil?

Early days so far, but I'm starting to feel that may be the best option for the use of Fine. For Ultra Fine which is capable of tiny specks, a smaller coil will probably still be better. But in areas with zippy hotrocks, a 14x9" Evo in Fine is will be a lot easier to handle than a Sadie in Ultra Fine.

Ok guys, I've gone through all my testing notes and did some fresh air testing as well - I know, not really a test of the machine, but does give some insight into how the different timings and coils may perform in the field. The Sadie is the best on EMI. For some reason the 12x8" Evo is a little chattier. 14x9" Evo is a bit quieter than the 12x8" - can't work that one out? I don't have a 14x9" Evo here at the moment to test. Also, haven't compared a Detech 8" yet. Here are some coil/timing comparisons. All carried out using Sens 23. Using the Sadie, comparing Fine and Ultra Fine, there is only about 5mm difference either way, and the crossover point where Fine starts to do a little better is about 0.3g. Anything smaller and Ultra Fine was the same or better. But it depends on target texture. I tested a 0.72g bit with ironstone, and Ultra Fine was still seeing this one a little deeper. On an Aussie 5c coin (our smallest, lowest conductor) depth was identical. Sadie vs 12x8" Evo, both in Fine, the Evo was consistently better across a range of targets. On a 0.33g rough bit of gold I was getting 3cm better with the Evo. 4cm better on the 5c coin. On a prickly 0.26g bit, the Evo was only 5mm deeper. I suspect on much smaller gold, they will be about the same and would come down to the settings you can run. I compared a Coiltek 11" Elite and 12" round Evo, and the Evo was 5-10mm better across the board. On the 5c coin, the Evo was seeing it 15mm better. I also tried an old 12x7" Advantage Mono (I've asked Rohan to bring this back into production!) and depth was consistent with the Sadie. Across the range of gold tested, the 12x7" was the same to 5mm better. But, the 12x7" started to pull away on anything bigger than a gram. On the 0.26g prickly piece, the Sadie in Ultra Fine was 15mm better than the 12x7" in Fine. I didn't test the 12x7" in Ultra Fine. Overall, here's who won the showdown on specific targets. I wouldn't take this too seriously as performance in the field with optimised settings will obviously change the results. But assuming everything was equal, and all coils were happy to run on Sens 23, this would be somewhat accurate. Aussie 5c - 16" NF Superlight Mono beat the 12" Evo by 2cm (20mm). Gold plated pendant - 16" Advantage Mono beat the 12" Evo by 3cm. 0.26g prickly - SDC2300 was better than E1500 12x8" in Fine by 5mm. (haha yes thought I'd throw that in there) 0.32g flat/worn - 12" Evo in Fine beat the Sadie & 12x8 Evo, both 10mm behind. 0.72g gold w/ironstone - the 12" Evo in Fine beat the 11" Elite and 12x8" Evo by 10mm The 14x9" Evo I used briefly in the field and tested on a few targets, and it seemed a very nice compromise between the 12" round and 12x8" Evos. Obviously stuff around 0.1g and smaller will see the small coils and Ultra Fine start to pull away.

I have used the 11" Detech Ultra which is spiral/flat wound, and it's an excellent coil. Found gold with it right away. In the stock bundle wound version the most similar size I've used is the 12.5" round. That is a great coil. Ran really stable in bad ground I was having trouble with using the flat wind coils. The only thing I didn't like was the thick profile of the coil. But performance was really nice. If the 11" is anything like that you'll be happy. The 8" Detech mono is also excellent, and I've sold a bunch of them, and is a regular seller.

I've been using a Companion Solar 16000 mAh, with built in flash light. It has a nice robust case as well. Just mount the solar panel facing upright when fitting it on the detector. You could probably find a smaller/lighter one but this one is the perfect weight as it helps to counterbalance some of the heavier coils. Same as the one in this image:

Noise Cancel on the 6000 is lightning quick. This one is slower, but you can see the visual progress, and can observe the noise levels in each of the available channels. I timed it and it took 43 seconds. The Auto Ground Balance takes about 7 secs, but it can vary depending on how "out" it is. If it's totally out of whack, it can take around 10 secs, so you just pump the coil and watch the indicator bars come back to the centre - I like it! Signal sharpness / tone modulation is very good, but like with all PI's, to get the maximum sensitivity, you should sweep fairly slow. It will handle a fairly moderate patch hunting speed, but if you whip it around too fast you will miss targets. Steve's reply about the coil parameters is bang on the money. The Coil Calibration feature basically tweaks the detector to be in harmony with your specific coils parameters. I would assume there is still a required tolerance for the coil to work, and the detector can't pick up the slack if a coil is wound too far off the mark. I tried a really old beat up 11" Minelab super gold search mono, and it calibrated and worked just fine.

Yes Simon is right. The Left and Right arrow buttons are for scrolling the menu. So basically, you press the Power Button. Wait for it to boot up. It defaults to being on Sensitivity adjustment. Pressing the + or - buttons immediately adjusts sensitivity. Volume +/- has it's own dedicated buttons. When you are in the Default screen, the left arrow button is for switching into pin-point mode. Pressing the Right arrow button takes you to Threshold, then Audio Tone, Freq Scan, Detection mode, Mic Volume, Coil Selection then Misc info which shows software version, serial number, Factory Reset. When you are done just press the Back (#8) button which takes you to the default screen. Very easy. One cool feature is that in the default screen, under the speaker icon, #18, this flashes to show what timing is selected and also what Coil Selection is selected.

10Ah power bank should be good for 13-14 hrs run time.

Hi Guys, Happy Australia Day!! Kind of cool to have another Aussie developed PI raising some eyebrows today. I should start by saying that unfortunately, FCC testing has not been done yet, so the product cannot be sold to the US at this point in time. But is available to NZ customers - so ignore my email Simon 😉 I have done a little testing on the E1500, and a few of my features/suggestions were added in, but the detector was already quite developed when I was approached for some feedback. There was a software update and then the user manual needed to be updated to include the changes. I've only had limited time on the latest version, but here's some info that will get you up to speed a little bit. 1. First of all, performance wise, this thing sits between a Gold Monster/Gold Kruzer and SDC2300. It is extremely sensitive to tiny targets, but depth won't match a 5000/6000 on large targets. I think the SDC2300 will remain superior in really bad soil conditions, but the E1500 is quite adjustable (broad sensitivity range), and obviously with different coil options, e.g. round/elliptical/semi-elliptical and flat wound/bundle wound, you can kind of dictate the performance a little bit. 2. It is for mono coils only, but works very well. Coil calibration feature is a nice touch, and optimises the electronics for any slight variations between coils. It will also tell you if you need to calibrate or not. 3. Current wise it draws about 700 ma on average, so a 10 AH power bank should run for about 13-14 hrs. Great for guys hiking into remote spots with no power. Just carry three power banks and you're good to go for days. 4. Tested on a 0.05g bit of gold and the E1500 was better than a 4500. With a Sadie coil it is super sensitive, and the tone modulation is very sharp. With an older Minelab 11" super gold search coil, depth is improved, but signal sharpness is not as good, but runs extremely stable. The 14x9" Evo seems to be a great coil for it. I think a Detech 8" mono, Minelab 8" Mono and NF 12x7" Advantage would be the pick of the coils for really hot ground, as they are bundle wound. Possibly add in the old Coiltek 11" round terracotta, and Minelab Commander and earlier Super Gold Search. But in average mineralised conditions, the Evo coils work great. 5. Hotrocks. A 6000 with 11" Mono is a little more immune to hotrocks than the E1500 with Sadie coil in Ultra Fine timing. With a slower timing, and larger coil, hot rocks are far less detectable as you'd expect. But, being a PI it is vastly superior to a VLF. 6. The shaft and hand grip feel great. 2 arm strap sizes is excellent and should cater for most people. 7. Buttons feel really nice. They have a very positive click about them. 8. The Auto ground balance works great, but is on the slower side. Slower than 4500. This is a ground balance reset only, i.e. after it has ground balanced, the ground balance is locked - just like a GP/GPX machine in Fixed. It is not continuously tracking like the SDC2300 or 6000. However, you can see when the ground balance is going out with the Ground Drift function - so it is sort of tracking in the background, but it's up to the user to reset it. 9. Interference with other detectors - I've only been out once with another prospector who was using a GPZ7000 with a 12" NF coil. We found that I needed to be about 10 metres away, that's with a Sadie on the E1500. Any closer and the GPZ would start to pick it up. 10. The Sensitivity range is great. I expect most people are going to run it in the low 20's, but in super quiet conditions, 26-30 are kind of like boost. I've got a lot more testing I'd like to do, and still playing around with headphone options, but having independent threshold and volume controls as well as adjustable tone, it should be able to adapt to pretty much any wired or wireless options. The target ID feature was demo'd to me, and appeared to be quite stable, but I haven't played around with it much at this point. So what is? It is a very well built PI machine, with a collapsible 3 pc shaft, has the benefit of being compatible with legacy 5-pin coils, a very well thought out user interface with a simple menu, and all the important functions you need. It is not waterproof, and doesn't have built in wireless, and comes as a bare bones kit, but all these things have allowed it to be offered at an attractive price point. It is not a deep machine. If you want depth on a budget, get a S/H 4500 or 5000 with a 20" mono or 25" DD. If you want to find small gold as well as specimens and reefy gold, then the AlgoForce E1500 is worth a look. Hope that gives you a bit of a better understanding of its capabilities. Yes, I plan on doing some videos so you can see how it behaves and what it sounds like.

If it's solid gold, on a 2 gram nugget, my money would be on the 5000. Especially with a 17x13" coil. If it's specimen or reefy gold, the 6000 would beat the pants off the 5000.

Chet, your air test results, where these with the detector in Normal or Difficult setting? I know Normal has a noticeable improvement over Difficult with the 14" DD.

My experience with the GPX17 is the following: - You give up a little sharpness on smaller bits at depth, but it is still crazy sensitive on shallow targets - It does give a little more depth, but only where mineralisation doesn't create more noise - Obviously not as light as the 11", so I found I need to start using a bungy. - I've had a little success with it in more open ground, which for me is in the older pine forest areas, but the ground needs to be super dry, which is quite rare as it's always in shade and covered in a layer of pine needles! In the native vegetation it is just way too overgrown to swing it nicely. If you have open ground where you can swing it, and don't have other detectors with big coils, then I think it's a good addition to the kit.

Technically true, but a 16x10 is hardly enough length for the true patch hunters in WA. 12" and 14" just isn't long enough is the feedback that I've got. They want coverage and would probably prefer an 18" length coil.

Hi Simon, what's the weight of the coil?

Miners Den posted up their current discounted price, compared to the new recommended retail price, which makes the increases look a lot bigger than they are. If you look at the Lost Treasures one that Simon posted up, you'll see the biggest jumps are with the high end gold machines. Steve, yes the packout for Gold Monster has changed. Now without the bigger coil, but an extra battery instead. Don't know about overseas markets, but here in Oz, nearly everyone I know uses the 5" coil exclusively. Maybe our mineralisation?

Simon, if you have bad hot rocks why not run your GPZ in Difficult instead of Normal? If you run your GPX in Normal or Sensitive extra, you will still have a problem with hot rocks. Your timings selection determines your detectability of hot rocks far more than the coil does. A concentric coil isn't going to be the magic answer of being able to run Normal or Sens Extra and kill hot rocks, especially if it's spiral wound. Be interesting to see how it compares to a 15" Evo, and a 15" DD, in terms of depth, ground handling, sensitivity.

That coil reminds me of a Racer RC40 coil, including the 3 horizontal bumps in front of the decal.

Simon, yes as an ex AV tech I know all about the cable do's and don'ts, but in that world we are often looking at Line signals, going across AC power cables. With a detector its DC power, and a relatively short length, and headphone level audio signals. BUT, as with all things detectors, even the slightest little improvement can make all the difference. Same reasoning behind taping coil cables in a straight run up the lower shaft, gear maintenance, using quality audio plugs etc etc. it all adds up.

Just an observation, but I'd go straight cable over curly wherever possible - lighter, neater 😉

The GPX boxes are already a massive shield as they are aluminium. There is also aluminium shield on the end caps under the controls. Just have to make sure the paint is scratched off where the aluminium comes in contact with the case around the screw holes. I can't see how adding another layer around the outside would make any difference, especially as most of the EMI we pick up when out in the field is picked up through your coil. I did try one of these control box shields, I put it on and off during the course of a session, and didn't see any difference. Interference would come and go and change as it always does, whether I had it on or off, and a careful manual tune was the best remedy. The immediate and very noticeable change you can do to improve EMI on those bad days is go to a DD coil, or a smaller mono. Re modded detectors, I'm all ears (I did certain mods to some older models), and I still love my 4500, but the only thing it is lacking compared to newer technology machines is ability on reefy/specimen gold. The 4500 and even 5000 are nearly totally invisible to it, even on sizeable pieces. So if someone could add a GPX6000'esque timing into my 4500, I'd be the first to line up, and I'd probably offload my GPZ and 6000. Apart from that, the only two mods I would love for my 4500 are: 1. True analog audio, like the GP3500 2. An analog manual tune on the outside - I added one to my GP extreme and it was awesome. Some of the claims made re modded detectors have been a little out there over the years, and others would be extremely easy to demonstrate in a simple video, but after many years I'm still waiting. I would like someone to show some clear comparison videos with the following criteria: 1. Modded machine vs another machine untouched (not a modded machine and changing the controls to "standard") 2. Real gold targets, not aluminium cans or such 3. Targets in ground with the coil sweeping across the ground. Nearly every video I've seen of a modded machine showing some level of improvement, they never show it running across the ground. Noise is our enemy. I always have the most success in the field when whatever machine and coil I am using is purring like a kitten. 4. Use the same exact coil on both machines, and a coil that people are actually swinging out in the real world. So many of the videos that are trying to show off a modded detector show the following: 1. Targets sweeping in air, or targets on the ground and coils raised sweeping over the target (basically zero ground response) 2. No reference or even measurements when showing depth 3. In a workshop with lots of emi The other thing that would be nice is if a claim is made along the lines of: such and such mod improves the ground balance accuracy - then I need to see something to verify this statement. I've got one of Micks battery regulators, and it's really good, and the workmanship is top notch. Here's something that I've recently pondered about. During the GP days, I always thought a straight power cable would run better than a curly cord. When Minelab finally made the curly cord nice and heavy duty I went back to curly cords and kind of forgot about the straight cord. What's everyone's experience on this??