Gold Seeker

Well,I stand corrected, good job, but I knew it had to be a dedicated employee, and it was easy to immediately call on yourself!! I just wanted to point out you should be given the benefit of doubt, since you do go out of your way to make White's customers happy and I for one appreciate you doing so for anyone that needs it!

Del, Just an FYI, I sometimes get online to a forum and make a reply and then get called away or sidetracked from my computer, and during the time I'm away from my computer if the forum shows regular members "Who's Online" it my appear that I'm still there even though I'm not. That being said and the following is just an assumption on my part but I believe that Tom joined and started being active on this forum because he's first and foremost a metal detector enthusiast and his love of metal detecting being that this forum is one of the best online, and not IMHO because he was directed to do so from his employers at White's, I also believe after joining this forum he took it upon himself being a dedicated employee to become a sounding board for White's and to become a go between for customers and White's helping customers with issues and giving updates on what's happening at White's and with any issues anyone is having.(Tom feel free to correct any of my assumptions) I can personally assure you from my past experiences that White's truly cares about their customers and their concerns, I will share my very recent experience on this matter.... about a week or so ago Tom stated in one of his post about a coupon code for 30% off on any of their coils ordered on their website, I told a friend about the discount because he was wanting a new coil, he went to White's website to order the coil, it didn't appear the the code worked to give him the discount so I visited the website and discovered that he didn't continue any further than the first page of ordering the coil and the discount does indeed shows up if my friend had continued to the next page of ordering, so I told him this and he tried again and indeed got the discount, but then due to a software glitch when ordering only the particular coil my friend wanted the shipping options weren't showing up when he entered his shipping address and at that time he could of easily got the issue resolved by a quick call to White's because they would of still been at the office at that time, but my friend who tends to over react over the least little frustrating event in his life told me that "White's has lost a customer", I told him to not act hastily and let me check into it, well I login here and sent Tom a PM, it took a few hours before Tom visited the forum and read my PM, well to make a longer story shorter, Tom immediately contacted another White's employee, who it appears is another dedicated employee, got out of bed after 9:00 PM and went in to the office and resolved the website checkout glitch in very short order!!! My friend was able to order his coil that night and after I told him about getting the issue resolved he was so impressed of the quick action of the employees at White's that he is now a lifetime White's customer! Now I ask you to name another company that would react so quickly, not to mention get out of bed to handle the issue??? I know that our metal detector manufacturing friends in Turkey would act quickly, but I would tend to think they would of waited until the morning to do so, but again that's an assumption on my part. So my point is you should of given Tom the benefit of doubt that he wasn't ignoring your question and that he may very well be very busy or in this case went out to lunch with his wife and wait a little longer than a mere 2 hours before reacting. Skip

Well that's for sure some tough tests, but I bet I could break it!!

This true most places I've been too, to be a Meteorologist I think the main requirement is being very good at the guessing game, I always look at the big picture of all the weather fronts heading my way on satellite and usually predict the weather better than most of the guys on TV.

I would suggest that you compare a signal before you dig it with your headphones and then borrow your mate's headphones and see if you notice the different, or even better have your mate wait before he digs his next faint signal and then check it with your detector using his settings and your headphones and then your detector using his settings and his headphones, then you can decide for yourself if you think spending the money would be worth it to you! I say his settings and your detector because as with many other models of other detectors in the past some of the same models can be more sensitive than another of the same model, it's possible that his detector or your detector maybe more or less sensitive using the same settings

Scott, That coupon won't do Klunker any good, he doesn't need blinkers out in the boondocks, but I really appreciate you posting it because I drive mostly in the city and I'm tried of getting tickets for no turn signal, the money I'm going to save I can use for buying a new computer monitor, it's hard reading all the new posts on the one I have now after cutting out the coupon!

Klunker, I hear ya, I've been driving my Suburban for quite sometime now, but the wheels just fell off, so time to jack it up and put new wheels on it!!

Klunker, Those photos are from the internet, click on the link above them for more photos of petrified palm. I have lots of gold and gold specimens, a few other mineral specimens but they're all locked away at the bank and all of my photos of them are on my old computer which bit the dust, so no photos to show, sorry.

MMman, I think what you have found appears to be a piece of Palmoxylon, or the common name, petrified palm wood, i.e. fossilized palm tree wood, so yes it is now a rock. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palmoxylon Here's couple of photos of polished pieces of petrified palm wood. https://www.google.com/search?q=petrified+palm+wood&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=638&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjV6_fsperPAhUG5yYKHSbrBFgQiR4IlgE#imgrc=_

I found this doing a search, it wasn't on the GPAA website and I think it's from 2010 but I also saw the same number on another website dated 2013 so I don't know if it's a current number but hopefully it is. http://www.goldrushnuggets.com/goprclstdi.html GPAA Kenai Chapter President – Joe Demaree (907)283-7808 I also found this on the GPAA website, doesn't look like Joe's e-mail but maybe "Debra" can get you in contact. http://www.goldprospectors.org/Community/Chapter-Map/Chapter-Home/ChapterId/KENAAK Contact KENAI AK CHAPTER CONTACT INFO JOE DEMAREE debra@kpccc.org WWW.GPAAKENAICHAPTER.COM LOCATION KENAI, AK

Chuck, I agree at 1/10th the cost the paint would be the way to go and you should be able to re-paint several times from the same can as the paint wears off, be sure to lightly sand the shell before painting it for better adhesion of the paint.

Chuck, If you visited the link for the colored shells at White's website you should've seen the price posted there.....a little steep if you ask me, but such is the price of plastic these days!! TRX Replacement Shell – COLOR $39.95

Here's what the product "Wink Rust Stain Remover" looks like because there are other "Wink" products and you need to get the exact product shown below for the desired results, the other "Wink" products will not do the job and also a link to the product's webpage, wear rubber gloves and don't get it on your skin, eyes, etc., also use a plastic container, Hydrofluoric acid will at least etch glass and after prolong contact it will eat glass, also at the link click on the "SDS" link below the product discription for the Safety Data Sheet, for safety precautions, first aid, etc., it states that it contains 1.5% to 3% Hydrofluoric acid, I have gotten it on my skin once before knowing any better but did know to wash the area well by reading the label before using it and I had no ill affects. I'm also including a few links on 100% Hydrofluoric acid and what it can do to you, not good at all!! I not trying to scare you with these other links I just want you to know more about the active ingredient in Wink Rust Stain Remover and how dangerous Hydrofluoric acid is when used in it's purer form which some of us do use to clean some gold specimens but with much greater precautions, Wink is relatively safe using the recommended safety precautions and first aid on the label or they wouldn't be selling it to housewifes to clean rust stains or at all to the general public for that matter. https://www.whink.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=cEcommerce.Product&ProductID=4328 http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ershdb/EmergencyResponseCard_29750030.html http://emedicine.medscape.com/article/773304-overview https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid

River rat, The recipe can be scaled down to a portion the sized needed to feed only few people, and easily done in your own kitchen, so maybe you can cook up a pot for you and your family's dinner one evening!

River rat, We do the same thing here in the southeastern USA, only we use shrimp instead of crayfish and toss in some red potatoes, it has several different names depending on location, locally it's called "Frogmore Stew" named after a small fishing community near Beaufort South Carolina, some newcomers here and in most other areas call it "Low-Country Boil", I'm sure down in Louisiana and other Gulf of Mexico coast states they use the crayfish and also the shrimp version. Try it you will love it!! Frogmore Stew/Low Country Boil recipe http://www.myrecipes.com/recipe/frogmore-stew

Goldgrabber, I watched all 3 parts of your sluicing trip to Tyndrum, and there is gold to be had as your videos prove, good job! Here in the USA if you find a gold bearing stream you can usually find a good bit of fine gold in the moss on the rocks which acts as a very good "miner's moss" or carpet and most times even better than what is in many regular type riffle sluices, I see in your videos that there's moss all over the rocks in the stream, have you ever gather the moss to see if any gold is getting trapped within the moss? Here we usually gather a good bit of moss let it dry and then burn it and pan the ashes to get all the gold, but if it has gold you can get a lot of the gold but not all out by just breaking the moss up as fine as possible and agitating the moss in a bucket of water then remove the moss and pan the cons.

I will also mention if you own one of the original black TRX pin pointer and not happy with the color you can order just the outer casing in any of the 3 new colors. https://www.whiteselectronics.com/product/trx-replacement-shell-color/

Well it only makes sense that that our pin pointers matches our tin foil hats!

The only detector I know of that will do what you want only works on sunbakers, it's the human eye!

I agree that it's a replication, when I was checking around on the coin Paul found, I couldn't find one exactly like it because of the minor differences on a real one and the coin found making me think it was a replication.... but I found the site that Paul posted above and if you read carefully on that site about the real coin like the one Paul found they are indeed blank on the reverse, so the replica coin Paul found does replicate a real one in that regard.

All solid shot has a molding seam, sometimes depending on the finishing work (i.e, filing) done after casting may have made the seam less apparent on some shot. I guess at some point someone could have milled square slots in some larger cannonballs after they were found to aid in moving them around. http://www.pochefamily.org/books/SolidShotEssentialsMod.html

Some cannonballs were solid shot, all cannonballs were cast iron with the exception of a few lead balls, none were made of steel, brass or other metals. https://archive.org/stream/ordnancemanualfo00unitrich#page/n7/mode/2up All solid shot should be void of indentations other than pitting from corrosion, I have never seen or heard of a solid cannonball with holes in them square or otherwise. The ones that had black powder in them would of had a fuse hole, earlier ones had just a round hole for a wooden fuse, later ones would have a threaded hole for a metallic fuse, one such fuse was the Bormann fuse, see attached photos, the last photo shows the hole drilled to disarm/defuse/remove the black powder from the cannonball. Bormann fuse. Bormann fuse in a cannonball The above Bormann cannonball with a drilled hole to remove the black powder..

As much as I would like to see that it was defused and saved as the relic it was, it's very very dangerous to do even for the experts which are few and far between, modern Bomb Squads aren't up to the task, or I should say the risk involved in defusing them,that's why they explode these relics instead, IMHO 1000 old cannonballs aren't worth the life of even one person. The experts that know how to defused or risk defusing these relics aren't modern Bomb Squad personnel but are themselves historians and relic enthusiasts first and foremost, one such expert, Sam White was considered one of if not the best at defusing these old cannonballs, sadly he died in 2008 defusing a Civil War cannonball, this just goes to show how dangerous it is defusing one even for an expert. http://www.americandigger.com/SamWhiteAccident.htm http://www.foxnews.com/story/2008/05/02/virginia-man-killed-in-civil-war-cannonball-blast.html One other expert at defusing these cannonballs that Steve may very well know is Steve Phillips of Southern Skin Divers Supply in Alabama who has gone to Nome for many, many years to dredge for gold both in the ocean and inland, Steve has the best way IMHO to defuse these cannonballs without risking someone getting killed, the risk involved is when one is drilling a hole in the cannonball to remove the black powder, one little spark and BOOM , Steve has build a shed and rigged up a remote controlled drilling press to do the drilling while Steve is safely out of harms way, once the hole is drilled there's no more danger involved, one has to just empty the black powder from the cannonball. A link to Steve's website..(there's no mention of his cannonball defusing on the website, just diving, dredging, etc.) http://www.ssdsupply.com/

Art, not meaning to burst your bubble, but you have read the date on the coin incorrectly, the coin you found is from occupied France during WWII and were only minted in the years 1942, 1943, and 1944, it was most likely brought back by a returning soldier, your's appears to me to be a 1943 and may have a mint mark on the reverse but I can't tell because of the dirt still on the coin, the mint mark "B" would be above the wheat to the left of the double headed axe. Not great deal of value to these coins unless they are uncirculated and then only for the rarer minted ones. http://coinquest.com/cgi-bin/cq/coins?main_coin=4123 https://www.google.com/search?q=1916+TRAVail+Famille+Patrie+1+franc+coin&sa=X&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ved=0ahUKEwitwZjinKjMAhUF4SYKHe0KD3AQsAQIIg#imgrc=Wbvzsf1rvenriM%3A

Very nice nugget, sure paid for your new/used coil!