Tom Slick

Great Buckle Brian! I'm sure you'll find some NV treasures soon (wink - wink).

I met Monte years ago at one of his W.T.H.O. hunts and attended most of them over the years. Monte was all about helping folks improve their detecting abilities and was always open to trying new equipment, and testing to find their best attributes. Monte had another WTHO scheduled for early June this year which I was planning on attending. It's a sad day learning of his passing and my thoughts and prayers go out to his family at this time of sadness. R.I.P. Monte Tom Bush

I just upgraded mine also. I added the Nokta Legend Carbon fiber lower rod $35.00 and added a small piece of ABS to the armrest so mine doesn't fall over either.

Whichever detector I'm using at the time is the "Beast detector out there". Just sayin'

The Fisher F-Pulse Pin Pointer is Pulse Induction, and they work extremely well. When I'm not using the Deus II and MI-6, I'm using the Fisher with all my other detectors.

I have one just like it. Sure wish it had multiple tones.

I'm a little worried that you know about something called Glitter Gel. 😁

The Bigfoot with the thin cable was made for the 6.59 kHz detectors like the Eagle, Spectrum, XLT, 6000 Di Pro, and the Classics. The later version with the heavier cable was made for the DFX, M6, and MXT. ( It will also work but a little wonky on the V3i) There is much less demand for the earlier BigFoot so it won't fetch nearly as much on the secondary market. Probably looking at $150 - $200 for a good condition earlier model and $400-$500 for the DFX model.

The handle or grip is shaped like the 1980's Whites hip mount kit handles. More of an oval shape. I slaughtered the silver back then. I wonder if the grip shape had anything to do with it. If so, the Manticore should do great hauling in the silver. 🙂

I recommend having an extra lower rod for each of your extra coils to help insure you don't lose the rubber washers while switching coils. make switching between coils much quicker and easier also. Another thing to be careful of is only using enough tension on the coil bolts to keep the coil from flopping around. Its not necessary to crank down on the coil bolt.

Thanks Steve but I'm sure they wouldn't cover it now that I've glued new tabs in place. I guess it's been less than two years but as I get older it's hard to tell time. 🙂. Besides I discovered them being cracked and broken the night before I was headed out to use it again. I had it fixed in about 30 minutes and its stronger than a new coil so I'm good to go. Maybe I should sell repair kits, two tabs and a can of black ABS cement 😁

When I say the tabs broke on my Coiltek, they broke just like the second photo above posted by Phrunt. They both cracked out at the hole. I'm usually very careful about not using my detector to aid in getting up and I'm very careful to make sure I don't attach the coil to the rod stressing them in or out. I'm not upset about it, S*** happens. I figure I'm very fortunate that it's only ever happened to me twice in all the years and as often as I detect. I have repaired my buddy's Nox 11" coil ears though.

I've had the Coiltek coil since they first came out about two years or so ago. I haven't taken it off since, until a week ago due to the tabs or ears cracking and breaking. I repaired it by attaching two pieces of 1/8" ABS plastic using black ABS cement. The tabs or ears are now much thicker than before. In 45 years of detecting, this is only the second coil that I've had the ears break on me. The other was a Macro Racer coil back when they first came out. Makro actually had me do a long term reliability test on their Racer 2 coil. Anyways, I think you'll really like your new Coiltek coil. Tom

"The ear is the only way to distinguish a good target from the trash." I would argue it's the eye. We're talking gold verses trash, we're not discussing music. 🙂

Looks like the top is a railroad spike hammer and the second item is the mechanism for a hand crank ice cream maker. Large iron can be some really nice items.

Nel and CORS Labs coils have the same parent company. The CORS coils should still be available.

Yes, That's it. Thanks!

I know somebody is making a new 18" BigFoot style coil for multiple detectors but I'm having trouble find out who. I'd like to see some reports of performance, etc. A little help please. Thanks Tom

1. Equinox Super Pro 1000 Plus 2. Deus 3 3. Racer 3 Professional 4. Apex 17 5. Whites Treasure Master Classic III IDX Eagle Vision

I'd sure never want to buy any of his used detectors "hundreds and hundreds of times with the Simplex" In 45 years of detecting, I've never found a need to drop or throw a detector. Just sayin'

Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I've had all your test detectors with the exception of the Apex. I love the Deus with the two HF coils in the iron but the Racer 2 with that OOR coil (and the 3X6 Snake) is really tough to beat in the worst iron infested sites.

I've never had to do a factory reset switching coils on my Nox 800. The Id's remain the same no matter which coil I use, 11, 5x10 or the 6". Maybe I got a good one.

Brian, I've been using the 5x10 since they first became available. I was lucky and got in on the first shipment to the U.S. I haven't noticed any forward sweet spot, it pinpoints very accurately using the pinpoint feature and/or Xing the spot. Separation is better than the 11" as to be expected but lacks just a little bit of depth. I think better depth than the 6" which is excellent for that small of a coil. Mine hasn't come off since I got it. I like the lighter weigh over the 11" also. I think you'll be wishing you had gotten it sooner. Good Luck Tom

Tom, I found that as long as the "find" is totally submerged in the Peroxide, it can be safely zapped over and over without having to remove it from the microwave. You just can't have exposed metal in the microwave. This makes the operation much quicker.

Brian- I'd put that coin Cookie/Phoenix button in some Hydrogen Peroxide and nuke it in the microwave. On bronze, brass, copper coins it causes them to fizz like an alka seltzer and pushes the crud off without damaging the coin. shallow dish with just enough HP to cover the button. Zap for about 30 seconds or until the HP boils. Let it sit for about 10 minutes and zap again. Al long as there is no metal exposed you can zap it as many times as necessary. A tooth brush between zaps will help.