Tom Slick

The narrow 5" width gets your coil into places the Minelab coils can't get to like between rocks while still giving decent coverage with the 10" length. Separation and coverage, what more could you ask?

I received an email saying the coils were in stock so I ordered the 5x10" also. Then I received a phone call saying they only received two and they already went out, so I'm still on the waiting list. Anxious to hear how it works for you.

I, myself wouldn't add a larger coil to the F5 as I already have a Nox 800 and the Deus for deeper hunting and/or relic hunting. I do however have a CORS Shrew 3.5 x 6" DD that I once used on a EuroTek Pro. The F5 with that tiny coil gets the job done when hunting around picnic tables where there's lots on aluminum trash (tabs) and bottle caps.

I've had an F5 off and on for a few years in addition to the Deus and Nox 800 (and others). The F5 is a great Coin and jewelry detector for hunting parks and school grounds. It not the deepest detector but has some nice features like ground grab and manual G/B, Threshold, Notch, Multi tones, etc. Just a fun detector to use. I think all the Knobs may have scared off a lot of buyers and more experienced users felt like the F5 was a beginners unit (wrong).

it was 1975, was 21 years old and listed my high school band Saxophone in the local Green Sheet. A guy called and asked if I'd be interested in trading for a metal Detector. He had brain cancer and couldn't get out to detect, and I always wanted a detector so I traded with him. It was a White's Gold Master with a Metal/Mineral knob, and used 14 batteries if I remember. Found 36 Mercury dimes in a three foot circle next to the driveway of my 1917 house. I was hooked!

45+ years detecting, buying, trying, selling and trying the next. Probably well over 100 but I never have more than 10 at a time. I've probably really used 50 or so, the rest were tried in the yard and let go.

I don't understand why you'd want or need an F75 if you already have a Simplex and Equinox 600. What are you hoping the F75 will do for you that the other two can't do?

For me, the 800 is worth the extra expense. You can always sell the ML wireless headphones and w8m wireless module to recoup some if not most of the difference in price and the 800 will always have a better resale price. Almost everyone that wants a Equinox would prefer the 800 over the 600 so selling somewhere down the line makes the 800 the better buy.

Steve, My first detector (1975) was the one on the top of the ad. I traded a saxophone for it to a guy with a brain tumor that couldn't go out detecting but thought he might learn to play the sax. Looking back I think we both made a poor deal, except it got me into a great hobby.

Coiltek is releasing a 5x10" DD for the Nox.

Thanks, but I'll keep my $45.00 White's "S" rod conversion.

My I/B has been set at F2 -0 since F2 was released. In my types of hunting, I'm not really bothered by digging a little iron and with other skills and tactics I don't dig that much iron. I try to adjust all my settings to eliminate iron masking of good targets.

98 % of the time here an Arizona I use Bluetooth Earbuds. I use another pair of "Over the ear" headphones when at the beach to muffle the sound of the waves and when it's cold which is rare here. The ML headphones are in the original box for the next owner.

I bought an Eagle II SL 90.5 in 1990. One of my all time favorite detectors. I had mine fitted with the White's Hip Mount Kit so I only had to swing the coil and rod. I made some great finds with that detector. The 600 coil was an excellent coil but that Hot Head was really sad. I think it was advertised that it added 30% to the depth over the standard 950 coil but it's performance was crap. I'm happy you got yours back out and fired up. Go find some good stuff!!

In 2019 I sold my White's V3i that I had bought new in 2009. It was one of the original "Vision" versions before White's was forced to rename the detector. I sent it in to White's and had it updated to the V3i version and expected them to change the decal but they didn't so it still had Vision on it. After having it for 10 years, I just knew that White's would have to be releasing a "NEW" top of the line detector so I thought I'd sell mine before it was no longer White's "Top Of The Line". Well we all know what happened next. Wish I had kept it. The V3i with a BigFoot coil is a killer Clad & Jewelry machine. For now, my C & J detector is the DFX with BigFoot.

Thanks Rick. I'm getting stronger every day and got off the oxygen. Going to a club hunt tomorrow. I'll be slow but at least I'll be there. Keep on the mend and keep improving. It's great that your legs have already improved that much. Stay healthy!

Rick, I'm glad you're on the mend. I just got out of a 10 hospital stint from Covid and lost 26 pounds. Came out very hungry after hardly eating anything for 3 weeks. If only I had low sodium. I'd eat 26 pounds of potato chips and French Fries!!

I've had both the 800 and the Anfibio Multi. I also had the Impact, and Multi Kruzer. I really the Makro/Nokta detectors but have sold all of them but still have the 800. I think the Equinox 800 is the best "all Around" detector available today.

Steve, I understand what you're saying about balance, but that extra weight has to be alleviated in some way and that is the fingers. With detectors being used at basically a 45 degree angle to the ground, and gravity always trying to push the detector towards the ground. What keeps the detector from dragging on the ground is the grip (fingers) wrapped around the handgrip. A person could tighten the arm cuff strap really tight, or tape the detector to their arm, bust most folks just grab the handgrip with their fingers. As an experiment, Put 3 pounds in a bucket, pickup the bucket and see how long you can hold it. Then try it with 4 pounds. Ok, wait a day so your arm can recuperate from the 3 pound test. Might be quicker to try 30 pounds and then 40 pounds. Either way, it's your fingers that keep the coil off the ground. I know that everyone doesn't necessarily like "S" rods. Same can be said about straight shafts, and straight shafts with extra weight added to their detectors.

After being a dealer for a number of years and having bought and sold hundreds of detectors, I have amassed a large assortment of detecting parts and accessories. The White's lower rod attachment point is about .250 narrower than the Minelab clevis. I just used a couple of firm rubber washers to shim the White's clevis to fit the Minelab coils. I've had my Equinox and all three coils since they first became available and have yet to break a coil ear (knocking on wood). I've always been very careful with my detectors. I don't drop them on the ground like I see so many others do and I keep them clean. Fortunately I have lived in very dry environments so my detectors don't get exposed to mud. I'm super happy with my White's/Equinox "S" rod conversion and just don't understand anyone adding weight to their detector trying to make it swing better. Let me know if there's anything else I can help with on your mod.

This is my third day home after spending the past 10 days in our Covid-19 Intensive care Unit. Touch and go for awhile but with oxygen for the next few weeks, the Doctors think a full recovery is in the future. Quite the wakeup call and despite all the mask wearing, sanitizing, and trying to stay home, my son, wife and myself all managed to get it within a day of each other. Wife & son have recovered and are doing fine. Let me tell you it's no joke. Take care, and I hope everyone has a better 2021. Tom

On the subject of scoops, Short handles make you bend over too far. 👎 Long handles make the scoop heavier and you have to use your foot to kick it into the sand. 👎. About 16-18" handle is just right in the dry sand and san be used in the wet sand if necessary although a longer handle works better in the wet. For the dry, get a scoop with a wire basket as they sift the sand much quicker than drilled or punched holes with a lot less shaking. I prefer Plain steel over stainless as they are lighter and less expensive. Forget plastic and aluminum scoops don't have wire baskets. I'm all for stainless or aluminum long handled in the wet and in the water.

For Saltwater beaches I've never, in hundreds of trips, ever used a pin pointer. A decent sand scoop is all that's required for the dry sand. For the wet sand or in the water you'll need a whole different, long handled "scoop" and there are almost as many options as there are hunters. Park hunting requires a pin pointer as to not damage or to do as little damage to the turf as possible. Again there are many different pointers on the market. In my 45 years experience, I've found that a quality unit is the preferred road to take. Cheap (inexpensive) Pin Pointers Don't last long and have very poor performance. This is my list of quality Pin Pointers, Garrett Pro Pointer, & Pro pointer II, Garrett Pro-pointer AT (Carrot), Minelab Profind 35, White's TRX, XP Mi6, Fisher F-Pulse, Teknetics Tek-Point. Be careful of units priced super cheap from China, there's lots of counterfeit pointers out there. I haven't used the Makro/Nokta units but many folks like them real well. Their detectors are top quality. Save for a top quality unit and you won't won't be disappointed. Personally for a first pin pointer, The Garrett Pro-Pointer II is a great unit, reliable, fairly inexpensive, with a great warranty. This is probably the most copied, counterfeit pointer out there. Make sure you get the real thing. Good luck out there. Tom

EMI can, and does affect both the control box and the coil. Some companies do a better job of eliminating or reducing the effects of EMI on their detectors but most detectors (if not all) still suffer the consequences of EMI .

Boeshield is a waterproof lubricant developed by the Boeing Aircraft Company. Aerosol cans are available at most car parts shores. I've used it for years in the aircraft industry and works great in exactly your type of situation. ed it