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Say I'm trout fishing today and find a 4" quartz seam loaded with visible gold (Googly 'gold in quartz and it's as good as anything on page 1). But, the land is already claimed by an armchair 'miner' that actually just uses it as loooong term camping/fishing/hunting space without campground antics and charges plus it's close to a deer layover area. Say I know this for sure since I met his grandkids and son years ago during hunting season and taught them how to snipe for gold on that very stream since the 'miner' was oblivious as to how. What would you do; Tell him? Wait for him to lapse his claim into abandonment or die?

I have an equinox 800 debating on whether to upgrade to the etrac is a significant difference any information would be helpful thank you

So I have a Tesoro Mojave that I love, it made me put the "all mighty" AT Pro down and never pick it up again. But ever since I got it I couldn't use it on the "Low" ground condition setting because it would false like crazy. I finally decided to have a serious look around and see if anyone had this problem and had fixed it and I couldn't find anything. I posted on treasurenet to see if anyone could help with at least some knowledge of the trim pots on the circuit board but i didn't get much help. Then I remembered about a website I saw a while ago, TreasureLinx, that had some diagrams of Tesoro mods on it. So I emailed Sven, the owner and asked if he could help out. He told me which trim pot controlled the ground balance and I fixed the problem, at least so far I think it's fixed. I'm going to copy and paste the posts I made to treasurenet and the email to Sven here... (POST 1) Hey all. I've searched around google but I can't really find any information about this. I bought a Mojave on eBay a year or two ago and I love it. I found my first and best gold ring with it and i even ditched my AT Pro in favor of it. The problem is it's always been pretty hot and falsed a lot in the low setting of the GB. In southern CT I had to run it on the high ground balance even though I'm pretty sure the ground there isn't that mineralized. I love in Costa Rica now and the few times I've taken it out it likes to false on the high GB setting and the low is basically unusable. I've tuned the ground balance on my compadre that ran hot when I got it too but from what I can see there's no GB potentiometer screw on the Mojave. Does anyone know of anything I can do tune it a bit so it doesn't run so hot? (EMAIL TO SVEN) Hi, my name is Josh. I have a Tesoro Mojave that runs hot in high ground phase mode and I was wondering if you knew if either of the trim pots on the board are for adjusting the ground balance? I'm trying to ask on treasurenet and on the Facebook Tesoro group but I'm pretty sure it was you who put a manual ground balance on your Mojave. I've adjusted my compadre because when I got it it would false on some basalt rocks and now it runs perfectly quiet. But the Mojave has been chattery since I got it. Here's a picture of the board, I don't think you need it but I marked the two trim pots and the two wires coming from the ground phase toggle. Thanks! (EMAIL BACK FROM SVEN) Hi, one towards the PCB center should be GB pot, the other will be disc bias- don't touch it. Tom has reworked his Mojave with full mods, contact him thru Findmall Link deleted since Findmall Forum update broke all old links Sven (EXPLANATION OF MY SOLUTION ON TNET) Ok I fixed this one too (I'm referring to the almost same problem I had with the Compadre that is documented on this forum also). I emailed Sven from treasurelinx, hoping he'd see the email and get back to me at some point in the next couple weeks...it was less than 12 hours before I had a reply. I asked him if he knew which trim pot, if any, controlled the ground balance. He informed me it was the one on the left, the innermost one that did. The one on the outside controls the discrimination and should not be touched. Here's what I did. I opened up the control box and exposed the board. I made sure the disc was set to the lowest position in iron (basically no disc), the sensitivity was on 4 and the ground condition was on low. I took the coil and pumped it at the ground and it falsed. I then turned the trimmer all the way CLOCKWISE until it wouldn't turn any more. I did this very very easily and lightly. If you attempt this remember, easily and lightly. I then pumped the coil to the ground to make sure it wasn't falseing still and it wasn't. Then I started turning it back COUNTER CLOCKWISE a tiny bit at a time until it started to false and then turned it slightly back CLOCKWISE to where it didn't false any more. Remember, the movements are slight when turning the trimmer. I also noticed that when I touched the yellow wire coming from the ground condition toggle, it made the machine false also. Knowing why and being able to fix it is probably beyond my knowledge and comfort zone so I made sure that when I put it back together it was snug and didn't move. I'm guessing some of the falseing was for that wire and other falseing was from the ground balance being off. Again, this was the solution to my problem. It might not be the same for everyone but it worked for me. I hope this helps at least one person with the same problem since I couldn't find a solution for it myself, or even a good picture of the board Here are some pictures of the Mojave board for reference

My friend is asking what the restrictions are bringing gold nuggets into the United States from a foreign country? She also wants to know what the taxes might be or if there is a broker fee or any special license? I have no idea and only wish it was something I knew from experience but my nuggets wouldn’t draw much notice, however looking online I don’t see anything that would be an issue other than possibly normal currency limits and taxes although I’ve no idea how an exact value would be placed on something like natural unrefined gold, or are nuggets treated similar to loose and/or unpolished gem stones?

Hay guys I'm still deciding on what vlf to get again to go with my pis ..I've had monster 1000 (love it) found alot of small gold and stupidly small to the point it was almost anoying ... and had the nox 800 tho the nox was more of my all rounder its gold capabilities were on par with the monster and both out did my gold bug 2 on small gold by alot .. but my gold bug 2 ran smother on the ground than both the others ..so theres trade offs ... but heres my question what are the older gmts like I'm guessing simalar to the gb2 with not quite the sensitivity to super small stuff like modern vlfs ... but I like its features the ground scan trigger analyze etc ... now I know people will say what about the new 24k and it is on my list and I'm very tempted if anything just to put it head to head with my friends gm1000 and make a video for people but I'm weary because it's been out for 5 months now and not one video on you tube other than dealers or a couple coin hunting and that worrys me abit ... ... but I'm interested to hear people experianced with the gmt like depth on low to mild ground how small it will go etc and how smooth... I'll say one thing for whites they have good ideas I have the tdi sl pi machine and yes it lacks omph compared to my modded gpx4500 but the fact you can put it in low conductivity mode and use the pulse delay and ground balance to tune out nails nd trash etc and only pick up ya gold and lead or low conductors for a pi that's awsome and makes hunting trash areas doable with a pi

Does anyone know of any war nickels that don't have silver content except for the 1942.

I am kicking myself for not picking one up a few days ago, looks like the prices are creeping up on these and most stores show as sold out. Anyone know where I can pick one up at list in the US (~$179) that will ship in a few days?

Contact problems. The + (positive) tab for the right side battery bends backwards when changing batteries. Any suggestions on a fix?

I have been pounding the beaches with my AT Pro and a Nel Big coil but the black sand gets annoying so I have been looking at some PI machines. I was curious how well the Sea Hunter MKII does with small finds like earings, small silver pendants. Also how well does it do with NiCad rechargeable batteries or are there better battery alternatives like the RD pack I use on my AT Pro that gives me 40+ hours per charge? Thanks!

Hello - I'm looking some help locating an old issue of Lost Treasure Magazine. For years I held on to the August 2007 issue because of an article in it titled "Train Robbers Loot Found in Denver". Unfortunately, I can no longer find the issue and am searching for another copy of it or of that article. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated!

Hey all, I'm a newbie here, thinking about getting into this hobby. I have no clue who to trust with my business, for purchasing equipment. So far, I haven't seen any links for website sponsors, if this board even has any. Who do you folks praise when giving them your business?

I recently broke a vow and took my Tejon to the beach and surprisingly did pretty well. I came across this ring about 4-6" down in the damp sand. It has no makers mark or any marks, the diamonds look like cz's not real diamonds as they refract some color and huff test they do not fog. When I compared the vdi on it from my AT Pro it comes in as a solid 55. Stainless rings come in at 48, titanium around 50 and 14k come in at solid 52 on that machine. Jeffersons come in at 52. Usually in my past experience 55 is a square tab or junk. Anyone know what range white gold comes in on? Weight is .3 oz

So I'm doing a lot of research here and other message boards about making the most of your time while metal detecting. One thing I knew (and have subsequently seen confirmed online) is that you REALLY need to know your machine well (features, how it responds in different conditions, etc.) to make the most of it. Given this, how many of you factor in similarity among metal detectors when upgrading (aka: staying within the ecosystem)? For example, I will eventually upgrade from the F2 (assuming I stay in this hobby). Most likely, that will be several years from now because I've told myself any new machine must be funded from finds made by the F2. By that point, I'll know my F2 like it's nobody's business. I imagine it would be "best" for me to stay within the Fisher Labs ecosystem due to my anticipated familiarity with the F2. So given inherent time limitations in learning a new machine, I figure I'd be making finds faster with say an F44 or F75 than a Minelab CTX-3030. Is this true and if so, how many of you out there take this into consideration when upgrading your machine? I ask because I'm surprised by how little "brand loyalty" I see among metal detectors users. Not that this is a problem, but I just figured more people would find one or two brands and stick with them. Luckily, I have plenty of time to figure out whether I'll stay with Fisher or move on to Garrett, Minelab, White's or some other brand.

So I was out hunting today with my F2 in my backyard. There's a good deal of trash so I ramp up the discrimination all the way. I notice that I will sometimes hear the high pitch beep on the outer portion of my swing, whether it's to the far right or far left. But when I go back and check out it to figure out the exact spot, my F2 picks up nothing. I'll spend a few minutes scanning the area from multiple angles, but I can never repeat the high pitched beep. What's going on (or what am I doing wrong)?

Saw some neato rocks in the Cajon Pass Area by the train tracks. I suspect this is a byproduct of the railroad somehow but wasn’t sure what they could be so I figured I’d share and someone smart would recognize it! As you can see, the first rock is chocolate-glazed. The third pic is of a clear sugar-glazed rock - much harder to see the glaze because it’s clear, just take my word for it. What could’ve caused this? I suspect heat was involved but past that I’m clueless. ? Thanks in advance!

I have been having a real problem when going into a new area trying to decide were to detect. Washes from time to time I find a piece or two by turning over rocks and detecting in that spot, but for the most part, most of the gold is gone. I've tried detecting on the top of the washes with a little better results if the washes aren't to deep but some of these washes have sides that go up a long way and are difficult to detect. So now I have been looking for contact zone or at least as I think I understand them. I have attached a pic in and area I am detecting now and it seems overwhelming to me. Everything looks like contact zones. I know gold is coming out of this area but I am really struggling to find any. I could use a little help deciding how to detect this area. I have circle and area that seems like a contact zone but is it? I am constantly looking for different signs, fuggy quarts, iron, etc until it drives me nuts.

https://www.minelab.com/usa/go-minelabbing/treasure-talk/equinox-tech-tip-best-settings-for-silver-hoard-hunting

I doubt that we have much gold here in Alabama, we're too far from the beach, and not much civil war fought here, so, that leaves coin shooting . However, we do have lots of iron in the ground (bad soil) and rusty nails. Will the GPX's, SD2200's or 2300's actually discriminate iron good enough to be able to go a little deeper than my CTX3030? My CTX is good for about 4" in worst soil and 7" at best. I need something to get a little deeper. The only PI's that I've owned is the original TDI several years back and presently have a TDI SL. The original TDI was deeper than the SL and I was thinking that I could tell small iron nails while adjusting GB would lose nails at "5" on GB then continuing to hear hi conductors on down to "3" on GB. I can in no way tell a rusty nail from a high conductor with the TDL SL. Will any PI discriminate good enough to detect only high conductors? IF no, then I'm waiting on the Fisher Manta. Thanks, Joe

Minelab Equinox 800, Minelab Excalibur II, Quest Pro, Makro Multi Kruzer, Quest Scuba Tector. How to stabilize machine. Garrett Sea Hunter Mark II, Garrett AT Max, XP Deus, Whites MX Sport, Stable beach settings part 2

While out yesterday with the Equinox and new 15 in. coil (thanks, Gerry), I ran into an issue. First off, I shortened the shaft to accomodate the increased weight of the larger coil compared to stock 11 in. That led to me needing to look closer to my feet just to watch the coil (for coil control, etc.). After less than 30 minutes detecting not only did I have a lot of neck pain but also deterioration of eyesight. After resting I lengthened to shaft back to my usual position and the problem went away. However, this led to me wondering if there might be a solution for having to look (down) frequently at the screen to see the target ID (or even to tune). The idea I had isn't even half-baked so keep in mind it might be a complete non-starter, but here it is: combine an endoscope (see example below) with Google Glass to project the image of the screen onto eyeglasses. Would it work? https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-TSAAGAN-Inspection-Semi-Rigid-Smartphone/dp/B07KFM2V5K/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=endoscope&qid=1551290686&s=electronics&sr=1-13

For a new kid in town you sure seem to know a lot about detectors, enough to be opinionated.. Anyhow... I'm sorry needing to say this, kind of again, but you continue to hold us to an un-necessary disadvantage.. How can we possibly give you better / best choices, or can you expect better information, when the extent of what we know about where you want to prospect is 'somewhere in the mother lode'.. Further, from what little you've shared location-wise and otherwise it continues sounding to me as though a detector isn't even the correct recovery tool / method for serious exploration and recovery of values.. If you have exclusive access to a land in the mother lode, theoretically meaning you cannot be 'claimed out from under', how about at least sharing with us which county or mining district the property is located -- and better yet the N-S-E-W area of same..? How many acres are you talking about..? Is it private property that just happens to be surrounded by old mines or is it someone else's claim..? If claim, patented or unpatented..? Has the parcel of land ever been worked (mined in any manner) in the past..? Are there any visible outcroppings on this land..? Mountainous terrain, hilly, rolling, flat..? Etc. You really need to give us useful information to work with if you truly expect useful information and recommendations in return.. Because as things stand right now it sounds to me as though a detector would be useful only for picking up surface residual from hard rock mining.. And I again have to ask what makes you think there's near-surface gold on this property when it's surrounded by mines..? What's different about this property from its neighbors..? It continues feeling to me what you're wanting to do is detect leftovers from hard rock mining rather than committing to working the property properly, either because of the hassle and expense of doing so or more likely because it's already been mined.. Please convince me otherwise.. Swamp EDIT: Please understand the above is meant to help you help yourself as well as for us to be able to help you the best ways possible; it is not meant as a slight or cut.. Having a permission to detect a gold producing property is great.. However, if that property and everything around it are hard rock producers and one wants to go in swinging a detector, welll, expectations and methodologies need adjusted..

Hi to app. I have a Nox 600 since 1 year and I used here in Italy to find everywhere generally on beaches but not only. I choosed to buy the 600 instead of the 800 version due to the fact that here I can't find native Gold but this is my opinion that for me Nox 800 was wasted. I found just 4 Gold little items last year and I made a lot of work for that. I digged a lot on beaches and I digged from VDI 1 to VDI 29 in Beach 1 and 2 depending of near the sea or just in the Sand. As I remember 3 little rings at VDI 6, 10 and 12. Now what I want to ask you in your experience is: Is it ok to stay with 600? Or could be very different for finding gold rings in the beach (my possibile gold items here are just rings and other little items on beach, no native gold nuggets...) Is a good idea to change mi finding way to All Metal mode? I used generally 5 tones. Do you advice me to start Learning the 50 tones in the way that I could choose to dig low ID (2 to 12) and be more helpful to find gold instead of tinfoil. Now the probability that from VDI 2 to 12 could be gold items la very low just looking at the target ID. In your esperience with Equinox which trick or method you advise me most for the search for gold objects like rings or earrings or small objects on the beach? Thank you very much. Every SUGGESTION is appreciated. I would like to see a table of VDI made by you diggers to compare it with mine on attachment related to findings here in Italy: Best Pat

You can find some excellent info on the Anfibio, straight from the horses mouth here: https://www.noktadetectors.com/anfibio-settings/ Well worth a read for current owners, but a few little nuggets of info there for prospective buyers wanting to know a little more.

I didn’t realize this. Example https://www.whiteselectronics.com/cart/

You asked for it, @Steve Herschbach! ? This one might be fun for y’all though. I hope so! Let’s say your best friend was brand new to the hobby - maybe they have a brand new detector (maybe an Equinox 800 on order - totally hypothetical, you understand) and a basic digging tool or two but that’s about it. The friend told you they were heading to a gold and treasure trade show that weekend (maybe the show in Quartzsite, and of course invited you along). What would you tell them to buy? What would you tell them to avoid? If you want more info before advising them, let’s say that they had a strong interest in beach jewelry and gold detecting and a moderate interest in everything else. ? Thanks in advance! -Julie the n00b