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I seem to have lost my charging cable for my ML 80 Headphones for my Equinox 800. Do I just need a type C cable for that? I have searched high and low for the minelab cable OEM but impossible to find. Any after market ideas? Thanks so much!

I've ordered the solar charging kit in the picture below.. I bought it because it claims to be able to charge lithium batteries, all the others I looked at said 'only for lead batteries'.. I'm no great expert on these things (you could say absolutely clueless) but I'm thinking about cutting the cord on the car charger and plugging it into the control box.. I've got another 25W panel without a control box but I'm a bit worried what might happen if I hook this straight onto the GPX battery.. I don't want to kill the bloody thing.. My question is will a 20W panel hooked onto a control box charge my GPX 5000 battery without blowing it up? Thank you very much for any advice on this one.. I plan to prospect areas well away from the power grid and the 12V charging plug in my old 4WD has stopped working since the car got flooded during a river crossing.. If this solar charger does work it'll be a huge bonus for people prospecting in areas far away from civilisation.. Maybe it'll be the game-changer we've all been waiting for 😁.. I do realise this idea has probably been thought of a million times already, it's just that i can't find any related info on the net..

I was looking for battery tray design for my Tdi SL which would allow 4 x 18650 batteries. As luck would have it on the local Prospecting Australia website XLOOX posted a simple mod for a Whites factory battery tray. I don't know how to post links so the full description is to be found in the Prospecting Australia site. Simple cut out the guts of the tray, leaving the original battery connectors with mods on one end and a copper connector on the other. I can fit Panasonic NCR18650B cells, without nipples but with protection. They just fit snuggly. The only issue is closing the lid, you need to cut a channel under the batteries into the base of the tray to allow for this. I'll cover this with a thin carbon fibre sheet and look at using a thinner sheet for the cover also. I will also add something to secure the batteries in position. Just waiting for the postman to deliver my carbon fibre sheet before finishing my own version of XLOOX's design. What I like most is that this is simple and cheap. Must confess I am aware of many different designs, since there have been no reports of smoking Tdi Sl machines I have finally decided to give it a go. All the best, Karelian

Whites 5900 Di SL Pro Need a way to power the unit, New adventure.. , but I would rather copy What options do I have? (Welcome to suggestions) What can I replace the "C" holder with? For instance, moving the 4.5 volt power pack to a waist belt and cable system, using a 1/8" phono/headphone jack to quick disconnect. Or perhaps a rechargeable battery pack that can be plugged into a charger without removing. Has anyone designed a battery system that is fairly quick and easy? (and perhaps even lighter than 4 "C size batteries) Sub "C" or Double "A" batteries might be an option. I may make a balsa wood holder if I cannot find the Whites Original for less than 33.00 plus shipping. Would like to see what others may have done to improve their power requirements. So many options when it comes to batteries, each with Pros and Cons.. Offer suggestions as I am brainstorming, Thank you in advance... PS. (right now I can get a 4 "AA" battery holder for $1.95 and the balsa wood block would be quick and easy to adapt as a slide in)

Just now reading Ridge Runner's contest (I know , it's over!), I noticed some comments mentioned looking for one....... I live in my RV so inverters (and solar) are in my wheelhouse ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR ! I am partial to the pure sine wave (PSW) type as the sensitive electronics like computers (or a Nox) , are often a bit "gun shy" around the modified sine wave (MSW) units. I just got a Renogy 700watt PSW inverter last summer and am very impressed with it. ANNNND My Nox seems to like it too. A bit more power than the prize unit but it will charge two detectors including headphones at the same time. with power to spare. ( A good thing.) (I won't mention my old inverter as it sucked slime water from the Black Lagoon .... OK, it released the "magic smoke" )

I have been married two times and it’s been a long time.haha To win this inverter tell me the total number of years to both wives. Please only one guess for each person. I’ll stop the contest on 3/17/18 6PM CST and the nearest guess without going over is the winner. If someone gets it correct sooner I’ll stop it then. Chuck PS Has one USB port

Got sick of buying 9v batteries for my Profind pp. Blackube just came out with rechargeable 9v lithium batters that have the same voltage as an alkaline. A little pricey at $25 for 2 but the PP no longer falses out when put on it's side then turned back up. This used to drive me crazy. Batteries put out near full power until they run out instead of fading in power like alkalines do. IMO worth the few extra bucks.

Disregard. Thanks!!!

Curious to your thoughts on the LiPo batteries contained within the Nokta machines. They (Lithium Polymer batteries) are a wild breed in many formats and within the RC community tales of exploding fire batteries are not uncommon. They have special regulations regarding transport/shipment (especially within aircraft) and I've read they can be extremely fickle in regards to charging/storage. I'm only looking for input on the batteries themselves. The product line is amazing and what you get for the price is impressive (SIMPLEX!) and not in question. Hope everyone is well! -Bryan

I took a Fatshark battery pack that holds two 18650 li-ion cells and fed it into a buck converter adjusted to 6.86V output and used it to power my GP Extreme. I'm testing out a (TDI) Beach Hog coil at the beach. I have a Barrie Johnson Nuggettfinder MKII that has its own speaker/amp as well as speaker/phones volume controls. The buck converter has less than a volt dropout so it has a reasonable life of about an hour and a half. I did run into a problem though - if the coil got too near my scoop the detector overloaded. Something, the audio amp, the detector, I don't know which, overloaded and went into a low frequency oscillation. I thought I had fried the detector inputs but I shut everything down, waited a bit, and repowered and everything was fine. I can't duplicate the issue using an input signal from a signal generator into the Nuggettfinder - which has me scared now. It happened twice in the latter part of the battery life so maybe this is a factor? Is the GP Extreme designed to take overloads from large metal or is it at risk of frying? I bought mine with fried inputs and fixed it - don't want to do that again. I may move to a buck boost converter, put a 2S battery management circuit on the pack, and use larger 26650 cells which would keep the voltage stable and last longer.

Hey All, Measured White's TDI SL factory battery packs and discovered the following differences. NiMh Battery - HD #802-5321, 2200 mAh. After full a charge, one day later..........................................10.99 VDC AA Battery Holder - #802-7150, 8 cell. With Nuon Industrial Alkaline from White's Factory............12.94 VDC With Member's Mark Alkaline from Sam's Club...................12.96 VDC With Energizer Ultimate Lithium...........................................14.46 VDC Was very surprised that with Alkaline batteries, the tested voltage was higher than with the NiMh battery pack. Also, the NiMh battery pack seems to drop about 0.05 VDC a day. But the clear winner are the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries at 14.46 VDC! Stay Safe!

It took me 4 short hunts to finally run the battery down. Total run time was approximately 11 hours and 35 minutes. That sure beat the 3 1/2 from the factory battery. I ran about 95% of the time in AM and only switched to Tone or Mute to check targets. Running mostly presets on the other settings. The audio of certain targets is starting to become inbedded in my brain now. Nickels are easy to recognize now.

Got my BBB (Beachnut Big Battery) 11 hour (est) run time battery today. Hope to give it a spin tomorrow. This should help me from having to backpack extra gear around for 3 1/2 hours or until the first battery quits me. I opted for the standard headphone connector to keep things simpler. The standard FT hearphones seem to sufficient at this point. Although I have been reading a lot on some of the threads about adapting other headphone for the AQ. That may be something I need to address down the road but not for now. I am just now starting to discern one target from another and don't want to start the learning curve again. LOL Thanks OBN for such a nice looking addition to my AQ. 11 hours is something FT really needs to think hard about now. Or at least the 8 hour version. That would be very do able I would think. I will keep you posted on run times. Joe PS: I am not sure why my pics are sideways.

This Battery musical chairs .....was a big thorn in my side ..... This Pack is all black and well balanced it looks like the rest of the machine was built to compliment the battery pack ....I chose the M12 connector from my old 3030 headphones gray ghost when they made good stuff my daughter bought me a set for my simplex last Christmas never worked I called left a message never called back new In box .....still dead ....guess they went out of business...anyway .... you can shift this a little up or down to balance it out a little more on coil control.. Good Job Big Joe...... please remember ole Jim hunts year round And on a good day 16 hours and Thirty Lashes....for insubordination Host the Jolly Roger ye sully sods... In the queen’s English ....Gonna need pack number Two ?.... Happy Trails me Bucko’s

Just a short note on Joe’s “shorty” AQ battery. It fits well under the cuff and balance was not noticeably effected from the lighter than stock battery. Run time for me in “tone mode” was 6 hours 20 minutes. It is my understanding that in all metal it is approximately one hour less. The M12 (CTX) phones connector was a welcomed change and the power cable with a small loop and ninety degree connector also worked well. Get one of his battery set ups and avoid changing batteries in mid hunt, while they are available. I believe he has other set ups with even longer run times. Knocked it out of the park again Joe, thanks.

I even bought the universal charger with 4 USB ports from Minelab and NEVER used anything but this to charge the machine. I have used it three times, I plugged it in the first night and I though it charged it fine. I had not been paying attention and today the fourth time I took it out it flashed BF. Left charging all day and green light even stays on indicating that it is fully charged but when I turn it on its flashing the battery meaning its less than 5% charged. very frustrating, going to try another charger that has greater than 2 amps. Thanks for any comments / feedback

Being a Fisher Repair center for the South East Back In Los Banos era I met and talked with some very incredible people from Jim L. President of Fisher Research Labs To a few legendary Relic hunters of that time in the south east that needed help Repairs inspiration or a pointer in the right direction...... To this day I still have my Repair manuals and updates some the best electronics ever conceived Mike asked me not to sell or give out the technology .....I have always kept my word. I would have 3D printer or a jig and router and a one inch extension of the battery lid on the 1280x or Cz casing.epoxy or use to battery gaskets......throw in 5 gallon paint pressure tank filled with water and compress tank 90 psi no leaks good to go..... get rid of the connector issue In and out of salt Batteries not included....due to shipping etc each customer would order batteries and charger from battery store online.....this set up 4S2P would give 7 amp hours copper 3m tape and foam 4 series times 2 parallel . built tuff for Navy Seal in You face plate route on lexan paint Black Spartan 300 in Red paint do you have what it takes..... add 15 and 20 micro second to or just change the last values deep salt water values Happy Trails jimpugh aKa old south east Fisher repair before da Cuda Go Long Horns Built like tank good to 100 meters

After a busy week, doing an effort between heavy rain interruptions, I finally finished this work! Thanks for all people involved in this project for their knowledge shared... Underwater test next week(I hope)

Click or double click any photos in this article for high resolution versions. I bought this 4 x 26650 battery holder on eBay after quite a bit of Google work. They are a surprisingly rare item. It comes with sleeves that can use 4 x 18650 batteries also. It ran me $29.65 delivered including shipping and tax. I ordered it on June 25th and it arrived from China on July 14th. The holder delivers 16.8V via a DC adapter plug or 5V via a USB outlet. It has a thin oring on the lid for an IP67 seal. I also ordered an IP67 M8 4 pole 16.4 foot female to pigtail cable from Automation Direct for $10.50 plus shipping and tax. I ordered several different cables so lets add $5.00 for s&h for this one cable. They delivered next day! And finally 4ea EBL 26650 batteries from Walmart for $20.99 free shipping, delivered in a few days. Total parts cost about $70. I have a 26650 charger already that came with my Tarsacci so you'd have to figure that. Some sets of the batteries come with a charger. By the way, the EBL seem in short supply lately. I shortened the power cable to 5 feet, more than enough to set the detector on ground if need be. The DC adapter that comes with this battery box is great. Blue wire to negative post and brown wire to positive. Warning - I am not vouching for the polarity. I used a multimeter to check my AQ battery and matched that. You should do the same. I take no responsibility for anyone doing this mod and blowing their AQ! The black and white are headphone wires. I hooked up a 1/4" female jack to those. I am using the AQ mostly as a wader unit employing some true chest high waders that have a big pocket on the inside front. I'll drop this battery in that pocket and plug my Sun Ray Pro Gold headphones in. I could use my TaoTronics to go wireless, but that seems pointless the way the battery is mounted near my head. I need to determine run time with four 26650 batteries - should be way better than the current 3 (all metal) to 3.5 (tones/mute) hours running time I get with the Fisher battery. Enough that I probably will not need to do a battery change at all and perhaps enough for a long day. I also need to determine how the detector handles without a battery under the elbow. Lighter of course, but too nose heavy? Should be fine in the water as the coil is neutral. Maybe too nose heavy for some people for dry beach use. We will see. This would be a great belt hip mount battery for dry beach use. I suppose it could also be mounted under the elbow, perhaps with the included strap, so I'll consider that also. It would balance well like that. It is IP67 rated and with proper headphone / power cables might be good enough to use under arm for wading / shallow dunking use at least. Operating sequence. Power up battery pack (it has its own power switch) then power up detector. Power off detector, power off battery pack. Doing otherwise may trip the circuit protector on the battery pack, necessitating removing and reinstalling the lid to reset. The pack has its own built in battery level indicator. And it may be used to charge a phone or other USB device! I was warned this USB capability might create interference in the AQ, but that has not proved to be an issue so far. The two circuits, 16.8V and 5V, appear to be isolated. Powered up - and no smoke! I really like this. Very easy for a not super skilled person like me to do, less than third the cost of a spare AQ battery, and should get well over twice the run time. If I had another complete set of batteries ready, it would be an easy swap for even more running time. It leaves only one cable to the rear end of the detector, and that is my only concern at all - I will try and beef that up and protect it better. I'm thinking a rubber boot that clamps completely over the end of the detector rod. I ordered a couple like like the one pictured below to see if it will stretch enough to work. Long story short is there is a very good chance this will replace my Fisher batteries for most of my use. This is why I had no problem getting the Limited "wader version" of the AQ as I find chest waders to be a good option at Tahoe and it's cold water for all but a couple months of the season when the water gets reasonably warm for mask and snorkel work. I used to do a lot of ice diving with drysuits while gold dredging, but am not looking to get quite that serious any more. Joe’s Fully Waterproof 26650 Alternative Description: Features: 100% brand new and high quality. Without 18650 battery. You need to prepare 4x 18650 or 26650 batteries yourself to use. DC 5.5x2.1mm interface has input and output functions, with DC adapter, easy to use. DC 5.5x2.1mm port for 16.8V devices USB 5V Port for Charging Smart phone GPS Tablet PC or 5V LED Light and more. Improve replacement battery pack fixes inconvenient shortcomings, greatly facilitates the users of the battery pack DIY requirements, without spot welding battery, thereby greatly reducing the battery internal resistance, improve the battery discharge performance, so as to effectively improve battery life Power supply: you can use 18650 rechargeable lithium battery as a power source The output side: USB and DC dual output power supply function,DC output voltage is 16.8V(can power the 16.8V device, such as the bike light), USB output voltage is 5V(can power the cellphone and other 5V device), to meet a wider usage scenarios, the product comes with overcharge and over discharge protection, protection of the battery is more safe and sustainable Specification: Material: Plastic+metal Color: Black or Red Input Voltage:DC 16.8V Output Voltage: DC Port 16.8V Standby current Under 80μA USB Output Voltage: DC 5V USB Output Current: 2000mA Overcharge Protection Voltage: 16.8V Over Dischage Protection Voltage: 10V Over Current Protection Voltage: 7.2A Size: 9x6.5 x 6.5cm Cable length: 29cm 18650 and 26650 Batteries are not Included Note Please put in battery in a right way. Charge it when power indicator light flashes. Don't use the device in the water. Waterproof standard is IP67 Packing list: 1x Waterproof 4x 18650 /26650 battery box case.(without battery ) 1x 5.5x2.1mm adapter 4x 18650 to 26650 battery converter

I hope this topic hasn't already been covered and I'm not writing it in the wrong place. Recently, based on my lack of knowledge in this sector, I have however noticed large differences in actual life, not only because of battery chemistry ... I mean something about the use of power itself in using the tool. Thinking of a mobile phone, the standby time is merely relative to the battery capacity, as is the duration in call or video call, much less long ... So every time a detector is used in an area where there are several signals and we are busy digging or at least hearing many of them, the battery duration is more affected and reduced... This for me, as an inexperienced, means not being able to have a clear measure of the actual duration of the battery pack ... You can never know regardless of how many signals will pass below the coil ... So I then discovered the natural drop in voltage, added to that of absorption in the most arduous use ... And what about threshold instability and false signals if, for example, a pulse is not properly regulated and a too low delay makes it continuously sound for nothing by activating the retuning? At this point I have the impression that even with higher capacities, the voltage drop is the most difficult factor to defeat, even before the capacity .... I am facing the insertion of bms modules in these days and in the future I could add step up or step down modules if necessary, but first I would like to understand to what extent it is possible to delay the cut off, if not eliminating some form of protection that these boards cut away leaving a lot of useful voltage. Unprotected batteries can have a bad end if it is lithium, so there is a compromise between safety and durability ... I repeat again ... I am not an expert and anyone who can add his knowledge on the subject, do it without brakes because I am well open to constructive technical comments, or even comic and bad ...

Joe, are you using a bms module inside the 4s1p tube?I hope not because.... I actually don't know if I'm correct but seems to be the easier combination for a self balanced recharge without the need of multiple solder and little cables around cells, not to mention the module itself presence inside the pod... I'm developing a similar pack for the Tdi and can be the base for the future of my dreamed AQ...

Hi! after a year of snorkeling with TDI BH I concluded that I can clearly note the sensitivity goes down ones the voltage of my battery pack goes down. Other conclusion was that even at 12.6V the TDI BH is noisy underwater at maximum settings: it reacts to the waves. Thus at the moment I really prefer to have just a stabilized battery pack. For my experiment I took a couple of 21700 5aH Li-Ion cells and a dc-dc booster board. the plan is to get "one hunt" battery pack.

I just finished the next iteration of my 9V to AAA battery adapter for my Pro-Pointer AT (Carrot). You can read about it in my blog post that will be uploaded soon (see my profile for the link, if you're that curious), but most of the "juice" is in the pictures. In case you're wondering (or you don't recall my prior blog posts about this building process😞 1. Yes, waterproof integrity is maintained.2. Yes, the performance when using this adapter is identical to using a regular 9V battery.3. Yes, this can still use a regular 9V battery.4. Yes, runtime is less than with a regular 9V battery, but should be enough to get you at least a full day (8+ hours) of run time. I estimate this will get you about 1/3 of whatever an alkaline 9V battery will get you.5. Yes, this can run on other types of AAA cells, including NiCd, NiMH, lithium (primary; think Energizer Ultimate Lithiums) and alkaline.6. I did this modification because I like tinkering and because I really hate 9V batteries. Background info of prior builds:

I've successfully removed 9V batteries from my Garrett Carrot (which now uses AAA batteries) and I've started on the process and getting rid of 9V batteries in my Fisher F2. I've taken the approach if trying to use a single battery to power the F2. A while back, I read from somewhere that the F2 ran off two 9v batteries running in parallel. However, this means that if I use a single battery for the F2, it should work (assuming the single battery has the ability to provide the necessary current). But when I try to use this set up, my battery gets warm. I eventually realized that the Fisher F2 is NOT using a "pure" parallel setup. If it were, it would not be creating a short circuit in my single power source setup. So my question is: how exactly is the Fisher F2 power wiring arranged? It's not parallel and it doesn't appear to be in series, either. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

Lost ours out in the sticks lol. Where to get a replacement charging cable for the Minelab WM-12? Thanks.