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You maybe thought I sold it - no way! I am the original owner of this Bigfoot coil and it is treated like the gem it is. It certainly is not going anywhere. However, I have bounced it back and forth between several detectors over the years. It started on a DFX, the went to a Vision, then an MXT, then a V3i, then a DFX, then back to a V3i.... and now back to a DFX. I really love the V3i, but the Bigfoot coil was not designed for it, and it has erratic performance that I just can't really get used to. Specifically, the 22.5 kHz frequency target id numbers triple in value, and this makes everything on the high end, like all coins, wrap around into a ferrous reading. This creates an intriguing expanded low end VDI range with a 100 point spread between ferrous and a nickel. But it make running in multifrequency pretty weird. It also seems to throw the multi ground balance off, which makes sense as 22.5 kHz is involved in that. I really only get stable operation running in 7.5 kHz single frequency. But then why bother? I love the features the V3i offers, but getting solid stable performance with the Bigfoot coil is questionable at best. So I decided to go back to the DFX, again, and found a clean one at a decent price on eBay. Many DFX are overpriced right now, going for up to $500, but with shopping you should pay half that. I got a clean one delivered to me for $260. The detector will be dedicated to the DFX, and the 950 concentric will help fill out my V3i coil collection, which right now includes the new D2 coil and a 6" concentric. The 950 may not be V rated so remains to see if the gain can be maxed out on the V3i. Be fun to get out again with this all time favorite combo of mine. White's DFX with Bigfoot coil

I have received some bad news in the last few hours and I don't know how many around Europe know the current availability of the D2 with 9 "coil. There seems to be nothing in this second delivery batch either, except 11 "coils. This could mean an additional one to two months of waiting for anyone who wants the smaller version. Bad, really bad😣

We have a new season of gold hunting just about to start and I've already seen a couple guys out and about making some finds of the heavy yellow metal. With the new season about to start is a few beginner nugget hunter want-a-bees. Let's take the time to share some of the knowledge we have learned. I myself recommend newer users to the nugget hunting scene to run as small of a coil on their VLF gold detector as possible. I have my reasoning for this, but before I say, I'd like to hear from others, your input, thoughts and experiences. What's interesting is the manufactures stock coil is usually larger than what I prefer and recommend for newer hunters. Thanks for helping out the newbies everyone.

If you get out your measuring tape you will find that most are not what they say they are. I have the beast coil and it’s called a 12” coil. I found from side to side it’s 11 7/8 . I’d say that’s near enough to call it a 12” coil. From front to back you will find it to be 11 1/2” and that’s due to it having a flat nose front and back. If any of you can check what is the true measurement of the stock coil I would appreciate it. I plan on ordering the stock coil and I’m wondering what’s the true size. I was thinking about getting another shaft but at I believe is 60 dollars is on the high side. I don’t see 12 dollars for a coil cover to be a bad price. Thanks ahead for your time! Chuck

Hello, i just bought my new Garrett Ace Apex with 8.5x11 Raider Coil This is my first metal detector and I relied on a person who recommended it to me and I was sure everyone came with a viper coil. And in the end I got an 8.5 raider coil. I wanted to ask what is the difference between them? Does the viper have higher detection capabilities? Apart from the size there is a real difference? im usually working on the beach and i want to know if i will miss things with this coil? thanks!

I'm new to this forum and was pleasantly surprised at the number of knowledgeable members here. Hopefully someone can help diagnose my coil problem. I have two M6's, both about 12-13 years old and have the 9.5 coil and the 4x6 shooter coils. One has less than 10 hours use and the other has 100's of hours use. The most used one had been unused for a few months and when I took it out with the 4x6 coil, it overloaded immediately when I turned the sensitivity level to max. I always run it that way. I took the other (barely used) 4x6 and put it on and same thing. So I took the other M6 and tried both 4x6 coils on it and they overloaded as well. The 9.5 coils have no issues. I took the metal detector to a different location to rule out possible EMI and the same overload issue. After using the detector with the 9.5 for a few weeks I put the unused 4x6 on it and it will work for a while 40-45 minutes and then overload. The heavily used 4x6 won't work at all at high sens. It's got me stumped.

I was considering reinforcing the coil ears with some fiberglass and epoxy (on the outside). Two questions: a) does it make sense to do that at all? b) I'm partial to JB Weld for the epoxy part, which is non-conductive (the steel powder is fine and the particles isolated by the epoxy matrix), but it is relatively ferromagnetic. Even though the ears don't move with respect to the coil, would it have a potential of disturbing the magnetic field so close to the coil, as I understand some metal lower rods and bolts did in older detectors designs?

Just curious I'd anyone knows if the Detech boomarang coils are flat wound like delete and evolution coils. The shape of the housing suggests it. If so how do they compare to the similar evo and elite coils? Also anyone using one of the ultimate 15 dd coils? Thanks

Can someone explain why coils are different between a CTX and a Equinox? Or an Etrac and a Equinox? What's going on with the coils that makes each model not compatible with other models? I understand we are talking about 3 different types here FBS, FBSII, Multi-IQ. It just seems odd to me to put something in the coils that make them function only with the model they were designed for.

I like an 8" or 9" coil. I don't care for an 11" coil that much but I relic and lake hunt in Michigan. Bigger than a 9" coil gets tiring faster in the water. I really liked the Tesoro 8" coil in the water.

Dear Minelab.. You've probably never heard of me but I've bought quite a few of your detectors and coils.. So it's time to return the favour, I've supported your business and now I want you to make me a coil.. Just a one-off for now.. I need a bigger coil for my Foxy Noxy to detect on beaches.. I'm thinking about 20" round so it'll punch deeper than current options.. Not just for beach hunting but also to sniff out some deeper silver coins.. I'm not just thinking about myself here.. I'm sure creating a 20" coil for the Equinox will make you a lot of badly needed cash.. You'd be able to settle your huge tax debt in one swoop.. There's no need to thank me yet, we can discuss my share of the pie later.. For now, just knock me up a coil.. I'll give it a trail run and if I'm happy with it you can begin mass production.. Win/Win.. So get off your arse, I want to swing the 20" coil during the Xmas holidays.. Your sincerely, Erik

Looking for information. Which ones are best for the NOX 800

Consider myself pretty handy, a question for anyone. I would like to repair an ATX 12in dd with the typical cracked up coil wire, looking for info on replacement coiled wire and a new connector plug . If none are available then what would be the proper straight cable to use to connect it without the capability to retract it? Just for a “see if I can fix it” project. Thx for any info, Jerseybones

Hey I was wandering If anyone knew where I can buy or get a coil connector plug for my equinox I just broke it very frustrated.

I own an Equinox 800. I've had it as one of the first ones in the United States and was the first one to find gold nuggets with it after Steve H who found his during testing. I now have 6, 11 and 15 inch coils. None of them has had a 'coil ear' problem. When the Equinox came out with this particular coil design I was very disappointed and knew it was only a matter of time before coil ears would break. How did I know this? It is because I had coil ears break on my 17" CTX 3030 many years ago. At the time the ears broke I didn't even know what to call them. I tried to heat and melt them back into position. I tried every glue and epoxy and it would still re-break. I was on another forum at the time and some suggest an individual who made a 'yoke' out of space age rubber. You see the problem with my ears was that they just did not flex enough to let me tighten the coil to keep it from flopping around. The ears broke laterally just above the coil. The first yoke I received from the guy was not really very good. It was designed to be glued on to the broken coil after you smoothed off the old ears. A few months later the guy in New York sent me his next fix and it still works today. You attach that yoke to the detector with plastic ties. I haven't had any problems. Maybe some of you have fixed your coils the same way.

I sold an essentially new 9” hf coil to a guy who tells me after first use that it won’t stay connected to the remote. Does anyone know what the problem could be? He also says it should have come with a charger but I’ve bought several XP coils and they don’t come with a charger. I’m going to suggest he re-enter the coil serial number and give the coil a full charge. Coil was perfect for me.

I have been detecting an old home site. I started out with my ORX and the x35 9" coil it found alot of targets, and then kinda went quite, so i grabbed the Tarsacci, with its 12" coal and the ground let up again , and in the one spot the east yard it to went silent, but what gagged me was i was digging down 14 inchesand doing what i call a frontabout 3ft wide and just detecting the dirt i was throwing out of the hole and using a magnet to pull out the iron and going over the dirt again but now i was using the Mackro racer with the 5" coil to do this and it was pulling out lots of non iron targets this way but what caught me off gard was when i went out side of the hole and just for the heck of it started scanning the surface the other two detectors had gone over , i started getting hits, pulling up more shotgun shells and other non iron targets , so the 5" Racer coil was doing somthing the other two could not do . it was getting in between the metal and at a good 6 " , this took me back because i figured no way it would do so well but it did and is ,

After reading all items available I am confused. It's probably just me so I apologize if this is a dumb question. In soil that has low mineralization which coil will go deeper and is more suitable, a DD coil or a mono coil of equal size? Or in low mineralization does it not matter if you use a DD or a mono coil? Bill

as I already put in another post, I just bought a second-hand gpx 5000. It comes with the comander 11 DD and 11Mono coils. I would like if it is possible for a colleague to recommend a coil to complement the ones it brings. Its use would be to search for coins. I've been looking at the detech 15 inch DD ultra sensing. If anyone has used it, what can you tell me about it?

I’m looking for an after market COIL SUPPORT for a COILTEK 10X5 EQUINOX coil…. I just finally bit the bullet and found one…. I’d like to put a coil support on this coil to hopefully not break the tabs too soon on it…. Does anyone know where a coil support for this coil can be obtained ? ? ?………thanks …..Al

I am 80 and having problems trying to figure out the difference between COR'S coils and Nel coils.Looking at a 9.5" x 5" d.d. coil for my F-70,seems the Nel coils are harder to find ,but the Cor's are easy to find.Rumor says two brothers own both coils companies is this right?🙂

Hi, I just bought an Xp Deus lite version (WS4+ 22 x35 coil) and after the first charge of the coil the battery level is shown as very low. The charging clip works fine, the led stays on for several minutes before turning intermittent on-off every 3 seconds. I reset the WS4 with no succes. Any ideas of this problem? Video here: https://youtube.com/shorts/dtFGBvrGuMk?feature=share

They have the coil molds for a 9'' coil from the X-terra which is a waterproof coil and one that I never broke the ears off.I have all 3 of the 9'' concentric coils for the X-terra and liked the 18kz the best because it was good on gold.Maybe this machine is like the T2 and can't handle a concentric coil.They also have a 6'' coil mold which would be nice for small gold if this machine could use a concentric coil.Could a concentric make this machine even better in iron?

Coil ear bracing has been the subject of numerous posts so I thought I'd add my approach. Yes, I've used several different designs of stiffeners and sad to say, my coil ears still cracked and I was out of business until I could replace the coil. Fortunately, those coils were still under warranty. My concern was finding a way to prevent this recurring after the warranty expired. The ultimate solution is, without doubt, for Minelab to field a redesigned coil ear that is a lot tougher than the current design. Failing that, the best approach in my opinion is to epoxy the stiffener to the coil making the stiffener, the coil and the ears one solid unit. Midalake has done this and as I see it, ensures a solid repair. My concern with this approach would be two fold. One, would that void whatever warranty remains and two, if the coil is sent to Minelab for replacement, there goes the stiffener. I wanted a method by which I could attach the stiffener to the coil, be able to remove it if necessary and still use the coil cover. mn90403 has done this as shown on another post within this forum by using zip ties. A workable approach but his method shows the zip ties over the coil cover so you couldn't remove the cover to clean the coil without cutting the ties. Having said that, his system will work as he intended. I thought I'd share my approach which I've found to be simple yet effective in accomplishing my goals. The key is making the ear stiffener one with the coil so even if the ears snap, the stiffener holds the coil and shaft in place. I decided to use zip ties but in a somewhat different way than mn90403. I wanted the stiffener to be solidly attached and still be able to remove and replace the skid plate. I threaded the zip tie through and around the stiffener and bare coil without the skid plate attached. I then installed the skid plate over the coil as before covering the zip ties. The skid plate remains in place, the stiffener is solidly attached to the coil and there is no modification to the coil which risks voiding the warranty and if I have to return the coil, I can save the stiffener. Bottom line; with this approach, even if the ears break, I'm still in business. It works for me....

I just talked to the guy at Colonial Detectors back east. His distributor sent him a message that the 17" coils had arrived and were shipping this week. I'm not sure how that affects all the dealers, but at least he had some. Minelab GPX17 17″ Mono Coil part # 3011-0427 US$369.00