Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'rods shafts hardware'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Metal Detecting & Gold Prospecting Forums
    • Meet & Greet
    • Detector Prospector Forum
    • Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
    • Metal Detecting For Jewelry
    • Metal Detecting For Meteorites
    • Gold Panning, Sluicing, Dredging, Drywashing, Etc
    • Rocks, Minerals, Gems & Geology
    • Metal Detector Advice & Comparisons
    • Metal Detecting & Prospecting Classifieds
    • First Texas - Bounty Hunter, Fisher & Teknetics
    • Garrett Metal Detectors
    • Minelab Metal Detectors
    • Nokta / Makro Metal Detectors
    • Tesoro Metal Detectors
    • White's Metal Detectors
    • XP Metal Detectors

Categories

  • Best of Forums
  • Gold Prospecting
  • Steve's Guides
  • Steve's Mining Journal
  • Steve's Reviews

Categories

  • Free Books
  • Bounty Hunter
  • Fisher Labs
  • Garrett Electronics
  • Keene Engineering
  • Minelab Electronics
  • Miscellaneous
  • Nokta/Makro
  • Teknetics
  • Tesoro Electronics
  • White's Electronics
  • XP Metal Detectors
  • Metal Detector Settings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


Facebook


YouTube


Instagram


Twitter


Pinterest


LinkedIn


Skype


Location:


Interests:


Gear Used:

Found 43 results

  1. Hi all; As some of you may know, I've been producing lower rods for the CTX 3030 for about 8 months now, selling them through the forums and my website (www.stevesdetectorrods.com) to a number of satisfied customers. Along the way, I've had several inquiries regarding whether I could build Equinox rods. My answer was always "no," as a major stumbling block was that piece that fits onto the "coil end" of the rod, i.e. the piece to which the coil attaches -- the "yoke," or "clevis," as I call it. Well, with requests for me to build Equinox lower rods so frequent that eventually I couldn't ignore it any longer, I set my mind on working on a design for that clevis/yoke piece. Once I came up with a working design idea, I submitted engineering drawings of my design to the machining/fabrication company that supplies my CTX rod parts, and asked if they could build me a prototype. Meanwhile, I ordered a carbon-fiber tube from my tube supplier, in the precise diameter to fit inside the Minelab Equinox middle rod, and also some washers specific to my yoke/clevis design. The tube and washers arrived recently, and just today, the yoke/clevis was delivered. I'm pleased to say that it turned out perfectly! All the dimensions are correct/exacting, and I "test fit" the parts with success -- please see the pictures below. The only parts I'm still waiting on are the push-button "spring clip" for the upper end of the rod, and a specialized drill bit for drilling the hole for the spring clip. Those will be here soon -- and at that point my "proof-of-concept" prototype rod will be ready for me to use! MEANWHILE, given the successful prototype, I am ordering parts tomorrow to make a first batch of 20 Equinox lower rods. As I said above, these rods are designed to fit seamlessly into the Minelab EQX middle rod -- exactly as the Minelab stock lower rod does. I plan to build them the same length as the Minelab lower rod as "standard practice," but can also build them to whatever length desired. I expect to have the first batch of rods available for sale in roughly 4 weeks. Tentatively, I expect pricing to be roughly $60 plus shipping -- but will know for sure once I place that first "bulk" order of carbon fiber tubes and yoke/clevis pieces. If you have any interest one of these lower rods, please let me know, and I'll be sure to have one available for you. THANKS! Steve
  2. What do you guys think about these? I made them initially because it’s what I need but... I’ve got a small batch of Carbon shafts for the Minelab Equinox that are perfect for shortening your detector right up for transport or water type detecting, for a fully collapsed detector you’ll have shave down or melt the small plastic locating pin on the handle clamp to let the inner shaft come in and get the last 100mm of retraction. They look superb, have no wobble or slop and are a lot lighter than the stock shaft (110g vs 186g) Even when fully collapsed and the aluminium clamp Is within the coils proximity it has no effect on detection depth, sensitivity or ID surprisingly. Taking PRE-ORDERS for a discounted price of AUD$75.00 ~USD$54.00 They are very limited so definitely be quick as most are already gone! http://www.detect-Ed.com All comments welcome ? Cheers! Ed
  3. Today I had a look at the shaft that my father put together for his 800. I thought it turned out very well, so I thought I would take a few pictures to share here. We looked at a few options but ultimately thought a true one piece shaft was best and easiest. Based on a previous conversation I had with an experienced water hunter on here, we figured it would be alright to run the carbon fiber almost all the way to the coil. The lower fiberglass factory shaft was cut down to about 6" and secured into the inanimate carbon tube with epoxy. This, along with the lack of clamps really reduced the weight. A couple of holes for the armrest and pod completed the project. Looks like he even got the button on the end of the shaft too. I will be doing something similar with mine, although I still think I want to try a kevlar shaft just for fun as it is basically transparent to RF. I'm in the process of finding one with the right diameters tonight. The main thing for me is to get the 0.875" O.D. (~22mm) to fit the pod, i can modify the lower piece if need be, or print a new one. I'll also tilt the handle a little bit towards myself. I love this because it is light and simple.
  4. I purchased a Golden Mask telescoping rod with the intent of using it for my Deus HF elliptical coil. XP placing the battery in the trapezoidal lower rod section however made an adaptation more trouble than it is worth for something I am not sure I will keep anyway. I decided to repurpose it instead to the Minelab Gold Monster 1000 in an attempt to make it as easy as possible to collapse down and put in a rucksack. The arm cup removal is easy. Just remove the bolts. The grip/handle however is both screwed together and glued. Have to give them credit - beautifully made rod assembly. Some heat from a hair dryer and careful prying got the grip assembly off the rod. The upper rod is thicker than the standard rod diameter and so the neat little clamps Minelab includes with the GM1000 will not work. Instead standard hose clamps will serve until I get some that fit better. The upper rod is not quite long enough to get the proper spacing for the armrest, so this is a mockup until I find a short piece of rod the correct diameter to install in the upper rod for a little extra length. Roughly 30" long when collapsed. The coil needed to be shimmed with an extra rubber washer. I used the skinny little Golden Mask plastic bolt but will drill the isolator rod out to accommodate the Minelab bolt later. Near final product, with way more length fully extended than I need at my height of 5'11" but that is good for working overhead cut banks and poking around in the brush. Click all photos for larger versions. Once I get the rough edges finished this will be a sweet little backpacker unit.
  5. Dear Valued Members, We got requests from customers for longer shafts for our devices. Please note that we are now adding a longer middle shaft to our accessories line up that will be compatible with the Fors / Racer and Kruzer series. The length of the shaft is 4 inches longer than the standard one included in the packages. We hope this will satisfy the need of taller customers who have been asking for this. The part number and pricing will be sent out to dealers tomorrow. We apologize that it took us long to take action on this. As a matter of fact, all your requests / demands that we believe we can accomodate always stay in my notes but as you can understand, some things take priority over others as the resources are not unlimited for any company. Thank you! New longer middle rod for Makro Racer, Kruzer, and Nokta FORS metal detectors
  6. All - I thought I would share an idea on carrying your gold monster. This is more for those of you that hike very far before you are ready to detect, or maybe you already have your hands full with another detector like a GPX or GPZ. It is not an original idea but one I saw recently for carry spare fishing poles. I recently tried it on a night hunt and really liked how it handled. It allowed me to use my GPZ and then switch to my GM1000 when I hit the bedrock. A major caveat is that I have converted my GPZ to telescoping rods, but I think the idea might still be useful for some people. For starters, this is for people who have made their own stand with PVC pipe fittings. you simply remove the elbow at the end of the stand so that you have a straight piece at the end. This is key, because the first contact point is low on your Camelpak (or other backpack). For this low contact point, you need a zip tie or similar method to make a loop. This is where you put the pole end of the GM1000, then you swing it over your shoulder and hook it to a caribiner that is latched to a high point of the backpack, typically the carrying handle. I used a caribiner but you could sew a velcro loop on there with back pack clips. There are many ways of doing this. Whichever way you choose, don't forget to bring the stand with you. ?
  7. I dont know if this has been posted before - I just found a minelab sub-website, which lists some service parts and their numbers for various minelab machines including the equinox: http://parts.minelab.com/default.asp Equinox 800: http://parts.minelab.com/category-s/256.htm
  8. A friend of mine got the Anderson shaft for his Nox, put it together, and when he has the coil on the ground and turns his wrist left and right, while holding the handle, the upper rod twist with his hand movements while the coil stays flat on the ground. Is this normal? Or, should the coil be lifted a bit depending on which way his wrist is turning? I hope I'm explaining this well enough to be understood. Thanks for any info you may have.
  9. I was looking for an option to do away with the 3 piece Minelab system. I came across the rods Doc makes for the gold hunters. I might be the first one shipped to use on the Nox. I like the stuff gold guys have, they swing big coils and are in tough conditions. This is a good price point on this 2 piece system. Also great for tall persons. I am splitting with someone but for $230 we received two fiberglass lowers and a carbon fiber upper each for a unit cost of $115. Be aware this is for the rods only. I have added pictures and in the pictures you can see I have added my own Minelab two piece alum. cuff with neoprene covering [i think one of the best cuffs made]. I have also added a separate hand hold and will not use the detector itself to swing the rod. There are no holes for the Nox arm cuff or control unit you will need to drill for these. Dave
  10. Decided to mod the 800 rod by switching out the straight middle rod to the White's S rod. I know a lot of folks like a straight rod but by switching it out, it eliminates the detector's handgrip from wanting to twist at the end of each swing. In a side by side comparison, both myself and a buddy with an 800 both like the feel of the modified version. The mod requires the middle rod from a White's DFX, or MXT. The rod needs to be drilled on the upper top end for the spring plunger and again adjustment holes need to be drilled on the bottom for length adjustment. The Lower rod from a Makro Racer or Kruzer is used as the lower rod from the Nox is larger in diameter. The top of the S rod also needs to be shimmed about .040" in diameter to fit snug into the Nox upper rod. Now it swings about as close to an F75 as you can get.
  11. Easy to make and easy to use. Click your power bank under the armrest. Armrest is reverseble. The power bank automatic starts when you connect the connector to the Equinox. The power bank =5000 Mah of Anker. The detector is in two parts is 60 cm long x35 cm x12cm. Carbon tube of Ali 50 cm long, 1x 22 mm x20 mm and 1x 20 mm x17 mm and 3x tube clip AT pro. Nakky
  12. Subject came up elsewhere so I thought I would run a little poll. The poll only gives you two choices but if you want to post about what you think your number one most comfortable detector model has ever been that would be great. It could be a lousy detector in every other way, all I am looking for it what detectors feel best on your arm when held for long hours. There are no right or wrong answers - this is a personal preference thing, determined in large part by hand and forearm size. The "S" rod grip is where the grip is just part of the rod itself, not a separate element. The Post grip is a separate post attached to the rod. Lots of people call this a pistol grip, but that really is more about the shape of the grip. I have seen good pistol grips in an S rod design. There are also Post grips on S rods so it is not the S that makes for the S rod grip but the fact it is integrated into the S. The photos here make it more obvious. There is a difference simply between curved shafts and straight shafts but that is actually a separate subject so I will make a separate poll on it.
  13. This is pretty simple. Straight shaft, or some kind of curved shaft? The most common curved shaft is the S rod but there are others. Please vote in the poll so it tallies results but if you want to add commentary/particulars that is great.
  14. One of these days I am anticipating getting the V4 update for the XP Deus and along with that the new 4.7" x 9.5" DD coil. This should be a great coil not only for better "see through" capability is thick trash but a very good prospecting coil. The V4 update is supposed to include the ability to use 15, 30, and 45 kHz but only with new coils designed to operate at those frequencies. The 4.7" x 9.5" coil is the first of the coils designed to work at the higher frequencies. The Deus running at 40 kHz with this new coil should be a formidable gold prospecting device for trashy locations in particular. I did not want to have to swap my 11" coil around with the new coil and XP rod assemblies are a bit pricey. The full rod assembly is $264 and just the lower rod is $57.00 I had heard about the Golden Mask Universal Rod Assembly for sale at on eBay for about US$120 plus US$30 shipping from Bulgaria so ordered one on May 31 and it arrived today just over two weeks later. There was no issue buying the item and the seller answered questions promptly. That seller is gone now so here is a link to the manufacturer website. The bottom line is the rod is much higher quality than I imagined it would be. The tubes are carbon fiber. The armrest assembly looks like cheap plastic in the photos but is powder coated metal. The rod locking rings have rubber grip surfaces and are some of the best I have ever felt. The unit collapses to 21" and expands to 55" with a weight of 1 lb 1.8 oz without the included armrest strap compared to XP rod assembly at 1 lb 0.4 oz also without arm strap. Slightly more weight but also more compact when collapsed. The end is 5/8" diameter and same bolt as the XP. The rod is just a tiny bit loose in the XP coil ears but will work. It is a hair tight on White's coils but also will work. It would be loose on most other brand coils and bolt too small. However, many lower rods will swap out with the lower rod on this unit so should be easy to mate up with most anything. I am very pleased with this purchase.
  15. I stand about 6 feet but the GM 1000 shaft is just too long. So this is what I done to make it right for me only. I first put the shaft together then put the large coil on. Then I slip the control head on and found if I put it just past the end shaft where the middle starts is just right for me. I then slip the arm rest where I wanted but this leaves the shaft hitting me when I swing my detector. I took it and cut off 5 1/2 inches. this still leaves 2 inches behind the arm rest. You can now unscrew the end shaft with arm rest from the other. You now have the control head with the coil on two parts of the shaft and the other with the arm rest. When you screw them back together you may have to adjust the arm rest a little. You will find the longest part with the head and coil is 36 inches. I buy gun cases for my metal detectors and most are 38" if not longer with three big pockets on one side. The cost runs about 79.but can get them on sale for 49-59. Be sure this will work for you before you make a cut. Chuck PS The end shaft is aluminum and you can knock the plastic plug out after you cut the shaft to put it in the other.
  16. I have had a Nokta AU Gold Finder sitting around for some time. The Gold Finder is the same 56 kHz detector as the Makro Gold Racer, but stuck in an old school knobs and switches waterproof housing. As such it lacks a LCD display and therefore the ability to display target id information. In exchange you get a unit where the battereis are in the control box, so it can be hip or chest mounted. Or in this case, put onto an alternative shaft assembly. I have an old Otto fiberglass shaft for the Minelab PI detectors I kept when I sold off my last Minelab GPX. I was planning on using it for my Garrett ATX modification but I ended up using a White's "S" rod for that project. I also have a 15" x 13.5" DD coil for my Gold Racer that I really liked. The problem there is even though it is a very light 15" coil, it still makes the Gold Racer more nose heavy than I prefer. So Gold Finder sitting around and rod assembly sitting around - Bingo - it's mod time! Easiest job ever. Since the AU Gold Finder is already set up to hip mount, all I had to do is drill the Otto rod to mount the Gold Finder control box. I wanted to mount the control box under elbow for better balance. The controls look upside down when you do this but in reality when you are using the detector and go to make adjustments it works better that way looking down from topside. The AU Gold Finder box almost seems intended to be set up like this as it has a shelf over the LED lights that makes a nice footrest when the control box is flipped over. Since the box is waterproof no need to worry about speaker etc. getting wet or dirty - just hose it off. Came out very nice, only 4 pounds 2.1 ounces with batteries or 4.13 pounds, and way better balanced than the Gold Racer would be running the same coil. I can use a bungee if need be but at 4.13 pounds this weighs no more than many coils running smaller coils. Nice, I am keeping it permanently set up like this. Click on images for larger versions.
  17. Hi Steve, Wanted to share with you an issue you may have when detecting the sands of Hawaii, I found this out this past Sunday when hunting a California beach. No matter how careful you are with keeping sand away from the shaft it will be in there and be almost impossible to get out, The find ocean sand will find it's way in there especially the cam locks boy was it a nightmare getting the find grit out even after washing down the detector and shafts.. In fact, Scratched the shafts that will be the last time I take the ATX to the ocean. Fresh water lake sand isn't as fine as ocean wet sand so lake sand can be washed off allot easier, If you can hip mount your detector for the ocean wet sand. If not, Prepare yourself for punishment. If anything, Enjoy your time there and take another detector if you can't get the ATX hip mounted in time. Paul (Ca)
×
×
  • Create New...