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I just ordered my wife a Vanquish 540. I am hoping it's a step up from her old Whites Classic ID she has been hunting with. I saw that some people have converted their Vanquish and other detectors to a straight shaft. I have never used a straight shaft before so I was wondering what the advantage is and has anyone converted their Vanquish to a straight shaft. Thanks for any comments.

Guys, I just wanted to share with you my new three-piece GM shaft, custom made by "Steve's Detector Rods". Absolutely superb craftmanship with perfect fit and easy assembly. Ideal for backpacking and traveling (longest piece is just 24 inch). The rod is super light (much lighter than the stock rod) but yet very sturdy. The clamps are high quality, something I would love to see on the 6000.... I am very happy with it and can highly recommend it. Steve is also a super nice guy, one of the few guys left who you would say is a true craftsman. http://www.stevesdetectorrods.com/ GC

hello i need to shorten my equinox shaft unfortunately the original shaft of the nox only shortens 1 meter i need something to go down as 50cm or 70 cm do you guys know any aftermarket shafts for equinox ?

I have had a 600 for over a year now. There is much to like about the detector; however, the ergonomics are something of a problem. Unlike all my other detectors, I must use the Equinox arm strap, otherwise my arm will not stay within the arm cuff while swinging the detector. My original plan was to try to turn the middle rod into an S rod. I wasn't sure I could do this with just bending, or, if it would be smarter to attach a separate S section either mechanically, via welding, or even via epoxy. Since then, I have acquired two additional middle rods, one for each coil. This would now mean three times the work if I alter the middle rod. The other day I was looking at my AKA Signum MFD. It has the older style plastic housing. Rather than being a straight rod, or an S rod, it is more of a V setup. This got me thinking that if I bend the upper rod of the Equinox so that the arm cuff is higher, (similar to a hockey stick) this may solve the ergonomic problem, or, at least let me get rid of the arm strap. Has anyone tried bending their Equinox shaft? Will a simple conduit bender be sufficient to do the job?

Hey all! I just wanted to let everyone know that I now offer complete, carbon-fiber shafts (which can also be counterweighted if you desire) for the Gold Monster 1000. I'll attach a picture of a completed one, assembled with the unit, below. Additionally, I also have begun offering lower rods for the GPX 4500/4800/5000, and now the 6000 (and of course lower rods for the CTX 3030, and complete shafts for the Equinox). Finally, I also offer custom shafts for the Excalibur series, also with a couple of pictures, below. Thanks all!

Hey Guys, Since the Hipstick was created I have been selling them. However, the last time I talked with Chris Porter, I thought he mentioned he was not making nor selling them. Does anyone know where some of my customers can get the newer Hipstick 2.0, I'm completely out and struggling to get a hold of anyone that is making or carrying them now. Any help would be appreciated - rob@robsdetectors.com Hope you all had a Happy New Year. Rob

looking at a mod with the nox remote is it posssible ? by removng the handle??

I'm not sure how I rated this, I don't have a Youtube channel and don't make videos, in fact I'm a relative noob with less than 2 years on the Nox, but Steve was nice enough to send me a protoype of his new S-Shaft for the Equinox to beta test. I must say it's pretty nice. It weighs in 1 ounce lighter than the bare stock shaft without coil, cuff, and control pod installed. So far I've tested it with the 6" and 10x5" coils and it feels really nice and responsive, but I'm not doing a full review until testing is done. I still have to run the 11" and 12x15" coils. He said I could post a photo so here ya go. I was doing a 5 hour test today when some college-age youngsters were sledding nearby and one of them came up to me and told me her friend had lost his ring in the snow and asked me if I could help find it. So the field test turned into a rescue mission.

stumbled onto a thread all about adjustable rods for the EQ800 that inspired me to search for an adjustable for the Monster. Had no luck searching this forum and also the interweb, all I came up with was Doc's rod which doesn't interest me for my needs. need something like the stock Minelab rod on the 6000 or very similar? Any ideas or links....? Thanks!

I have no problem with coil twisting and I am using the 17” now. I think people who are having a problem are not tightening down hard enough. The shafts are carbon fiber you’re not going to break them tighten the clamp as tight as it can possibly get. If you’re just weakly tightening it down then you are going to have some twist. Quite honestly if you wanted to drill a hole and put a pin in yourself it would not be a big deal but I think it defeats the purpose when you want to tighten up the cord by giving it a twist before engaging the locks. So far I’m satisfied with it. Keep this in mind to if you think you can actually tighten it to the point where you’re going to break it it’s under warranty for three years! But if you drill the hole it’s probably not under warranty anymore.

Before I got a Sovereign and Equinox my go to detector was the Explorer 2. It is a little heavy for a 3-4 hour Beach hunt. This mod made it a little lighter. I also switched the 11" Smart coil to the NeL Superfly coil. I had an old Anderson shaft that was not being used with an Outside Diameter of .875 . You will be using parts from the stock shaft. Be Aware doing this mod will render the stock shaft useless. Use a heat gun to remove the lower portion of stock shaft, then use a hack saw and cut the upper stock shaft cam lock off. You will need to determine the length you will need for your swing. Same for the carbon shaft. Use Epoxy to glue the lower portion to the carbon fiber shaft.

Hi there The first design Armrest for Minelab Vanquish. 3D print, Material PETG

Final Modified Version of my Excalibur. Was able to silence the machine in rough waters by removing all of the knobs except one which ..and it is sealed from the saltwater by a o-ring and custom easy, fine tune knob. Stability is very good close to shore where water is smacking the control pod and the coil wire... I do need to get a shorter Allen set screw for the sealed on/off threshold knob I made...but for now the allen is coated with aquaseal and the internal shaft on the pot has a plastic cover to break contact with the SS knob shaft. Not real happy about the toggle on the handle which is used to go between PP and disc. But I had a bad batch of the IP68 yellow momentary push buttons ..... had two fail on me.... I was right in the middle of a good hunt and had one go out on me..so I pulled it out and chopped it off to finish the hunt., got home and made more changes to the excal. Hopefully in the future they can get better quality switches. And special Thanks to Steve detector rods for rushing a few of the cam locks for the lower shaft..., so much easier adjusting the coil for the hunt, which is a very important part of coil control and Pin pointing the target..... Picture of the hunt I was in the middle of and the yellow IP68 button went on me.. I can not stand to hunt in disc, which was the mod it was stuck in..chop-chop and all was good..

I have to share this with you. Steve has flawless, magnificent and unmatched complete carbon fiber shafts for Minelab Equinox. Check it out.

Hi, does anyone tried this config for diving with the Nox? Is just the original stem only with the lower part of the rod. Is a little bit long, but I think it should work!

I saw SteveG announced he did an his after market shaft to fit the MDT. I have one and have to say for water hunter its worth every penny. The ID and OD on it fits very snug especially into the upper where its important since thats where it might move the most from all the torque. Mine extends even beyond the length of the coil cable. Looks like Dimitar is willing to add a longer cable if you want a new coil to go along with the new shaft. The shaft takes it down to a standard size..... so there maybe about 30% less drag out there. The past few weeks ive been using on some yellow or red flag days..... so it handles the rip currents, big waves and some really swift current. It even makes the machine lighter....hard to believe. His lock is removable .... so for someone who wanted a much longer lower ..... the middle could be modified easily. I like the design..... i think the price is fair. Hopefully he will come on and give a little more info about it and what hes willing to do. Even if you want another shaft to fit a second coil.... its sure nice to have.

Wanted to shave a little off in weight off the Apex after I got inspired from Palzynski's setup so I snagged one of Steve's detecor rods for the Apex. Shaves about 30g off of the total weight bringing the stock machine with the mid sized Viper coil down to 1206g. Love the quick clip which makes adjusting easier. Fantastic quality to the shaft and looks sweet. Big Thanks to Steve. Shaft can be found here: https://www.stevesdetectorrods.com/

Got a package from @steveg today, I am proud to be the first to buy one of his "Woodland Camo" shafts and a counterweight setup. Version 2 of my Equinox was a DetectEd Redbelly shaft and cuff: The Redbelly is great, I've used it everywhere. Light, locks up nicely. I have no problem with it. Steve posted his new selection and I just had to have one. It's a bit more rigid than the DetectEd shaft, possibly because of the Realtree wrap. It might be a bit heavier but I haven't noticed it. The heavy clear coat makes it really shiny. I also bought the 7" counterweight with enough bags for a 15" coil, it's black carbon fiber but looks good. Right now I don't need it but it's good to have it if I do. Here's the new setup: I'm keeping the DetectEd cuff as it has no guide pin so I can put it wherever I want. I have a neoprene cushion on it. Also managed to snag a Detecting Innovations sticker to match. Perfect! 😎 Thanks to Steve for this awesome high quality offering. "There are many like it but this one is mine". 🇺🇸

I have an 800 that I use at the beach. Sometimes it drops and this causes the plastic stand to break. I glue it but it has happened about 3 times and soon I won't be able to glue it. It is time to get a new cuff/stand. I'm really not interested in new shafts but ... I use the 15" more than any coil if that makes a difference. Mitchel

Hopefully this Fix will allow me non-delayed hunting. Not beautiful,... but functions. Took out the bottom pin on the shaft leaving the top, seems to be the weak link area. Cut a 5.5 inch (14cm) piece of 25 x 23mm Carbon fiber, slid it over the weak area with about a 2mm space between the shaft and the carbon fiber..... Cut slots on both sides so the CF tube goes all the way to the bottom. Sealed the bottom of the CF tube, and poured a 2 part 24 hour dry epoxy into the void. Let that dry for a few hours then started pouring the epoxy down the top of the shaft to fill the hollow area in the lower clevis insert. I'm sure i added some weight with all of the epoxy added but maybe a good thing. Hope to find out this week, planning my first (real hunt) Thursday with the AQ since my accident in Jan..., Interesting, I am sure the slow dry epoxy filled in the area where I took the lower pin out. I had filled the void and did not give it much time to dry when I started to fill the main shaft with epoxy.. I soon noticed it was forcing out the epoxy in the void so I stopped and gave it enough time to firm up, then continue. I'm not sure where the inter was leaking thru to the outer. Unless it was coming out the pin holes where I pulled both earlier. I never pulled the clevis joint to see if it was solid, but it is now.

The Apex balance/weight is very good but as I thought it could still be improved , I decided to update it a little bit ... 🙂 My modifs : 1) polymer lower shaft replaced by an home made carbon shaft : 30g saved 2) aluminium mid shaft replaced by an home made carbon shaft : 40g saved 3) rubber handle replaced by a lighter foam handle : 30g saved 4) armrest replaced by a lighter and wider ML Vanquish armrest 50g saved note : I have kept the original aluminium S shaped upper shaft , just the lower and mid shafts have been replaced by carbon shafts Total : 150g saved After these modifs my Apex/Ripper only weights 960g /2.1 lbs 👍! ( vs 1110g/ 2.4lbs for the original Apex/Ripper ) I spent a little time doing this but it was worth the effort , very few detectors weigh under 1kg , and now my Apex balance is almost the same as a Deus/Orx and it is very fun to use in the field ... 🙂

I got the rod from Bulgaria.

I really needed the Equinox on a collapsible shaft so that I can put it in my backpack or stow it on the Rokon for riding cross country. I already had the Golden Mask shaft that I had modified for the Deus, so I started tinkering. The original Equinox shaft has a smaller diameter than the Golden Mask, so the shaft mounts will not mate up directly. I took the dremel tool and relieved the areas around the screw holes just enough to get the Nox handle brain/screen section to snug up to the Mask shaft. I removed the original Mask handle and fitted the Nox in the same location. (Mask handle is bolted and glued to the shaft, it takes some work to get them apart.) I then used longer NOX sized metric bolts (shown below) snugged them into the NOX handle around the Mask shaft. Its a very tight fit so the bolts end up a little bent. I then cut the heads off the bolts to make them more or less studs. I cut and drilled a hose clamp band, fitted it over the studs, then pulled them down tight over the shaft with a nut and washer combination. I added a little black paint and the whole thing is really stable. I'll had a little black Duct tape to the whole mess so that it doesn't hang up on my shirt or pants. It collapses to 24 inches and fully extends to about 50 inches. The Golden Mask shafts are all carbon fiber so corrosion, weight and shaft wobble are not a problem. I gave it a test run this morning was quite impressed. For whatever reason I can not explain, my bump falsing was cut by about half. That was the first thing I noticed so I went through all the set up functions to make sure I hadn't accidentally changed something like Sens or Recovery. Nope, all my same settings, but now a noticeable reduction in bump sensitivity. I don't know how, but I'm liking it a whole lot better now.

I have one of the first runs of the equinox. Got on a wait list with a dealer and got mine in April or May of 2018 (please correct me if I’m wrong on this, but I think I’ve had my nox for 3 years now). I had a slight case of the shaft wobble issue and ended up getting an Anderson carbon fiber upper and lower rods. When Steve first came out with his rods I inquired about getting just the upper from him mostly for the cam lock, but also for the balance pod. We sent some messages back and forth and realized that the Anderson lower rod was a slightly larger diameter and wasn’t compatible with Steve’s upper rod. Since I had just shelled out $150 on the Anderson I decided I would make my own balance pod. I had some 6/6 nylon rod and had this big piece of aluminum left over from another project. You can see from the pic how it works. The aluminum counter weight can be slid closer or farther from the fulcrum point (the equinox control box grip) to fine tune the balance. I forget what the nylon rod and counter weight weighs, but even with the counter weight slid all the way to the end, it still doesn’t perfectly balance the 11” coil, however it’s nearly perfect for the 6” coil. I wanted the overall weight of the detector as light as possible, but still help significantly with the balance. I think I got it at a fairly sweet spot between balance and overall weight.

Since I put the 15 inch coil on my 800, I’ve noticed the balance is now NOSE HEAVY....is there a fix to balance it out...ie not be so NOSE HEAVY....??