V3i - Screen Replacement Substitute

[chiil]

Just a heads up.  My screen started to develop the dead pixel lines.  Nothing that won't stop me from using it, but I figured I would check around to see if I could score an economical replacement screen.  Centreville Electronics does have them in stock, but they're running about $140 + shipping... which is about $150 for a DIY screen replacement.

I ended up opening the V3i and saw that it's running a Sharp LQ035Q7DB05 screen.  Ebay had a few listings, but this one seemed to be the closest when inspecting the photo.  The original Sharp's LCD has two ribbon cables, one large and one small.  I traced out the smaller ribbon cable and only two of the leads are being used - same as the listing.

I'm quite certain this LCD will work... and for around $30 + shipping.  I ordered two and will report back if all goes well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/263099618885

[Cascade Steven]

Thanks for sharing!  I hope it works out for you.  It would be great for people to have a "work-around" replacement when the NOS White's screens are no longer available.  Looking forward to your update report.

[Cascade Steven]

I checked out the ebay add and noted that they do not accept returns.  However, for that price, at least to me, a no-returns policy is not a big deal, and actually a  moot point.  If I had a V3i, and these will work, I personally would be ecstatic to have the option of an inexpensive replacement available.  And I would  seriously consider purchasing at least one to have on the shelf for a spare, while these are available.

[Cascade Steven]

chiil:

Just curious if you have had an opportunity to test the replacement display, and if so did it work as desired?

[chiil]

Yes, just got back from a work trip... and the two new screens were waiting for me.  Plugged in screen 1 and found a large black line.  Well that sucks.  Plugged in screen 2 and similar results, although the black large line is located elsewhere on the screen.  Tried re-seating the ribbon cables several times, and playing with them to see if the results would change.  Nada.

Found the issue is really with the backlight, which is fed from the smaller ribbon cable.  You can see in one of the photos I disconnected the LCD input and the black line remains.  If I remove the smaller backlight cable, and keep only the LCD input - there are no issues except for not having a backlight.

I'm wondering if these are just a bad batch or something.  I've reached out to the seller to see if he'll accept a return or send me two additional screens as replacement.

[phrunt]

Does moving the ribbon cable around affect it? it could be a small crack in the mylar cable which you could solve with a bridge.  Have you applied pressure around the edges of the screen on the metal surround to see if you can make the lines go away or move?  Have you left the detector on for some time to see if the lines go away with time? 

It could be a bad batch of screens I guess, or a fault with the PCB.

[locator]

On 8/5/2023 at 5:40 AM, chiil said:

Yes, just got back from a work trip... and the two new screens were waiting for me.  Plugged in screen 1 and found a large black line.  Well that sucks.  Plugged in screen 2 and similar results, although the black large line is located elsewhere on the screen.  Tried re-seating the ribbon cables several times, and playing with them to see if the results would change.  Nada.

Found the issue is really with the backlight, which is fed from the smaller ribbon cable.  You can see in one of the photos I disconnected the LCD input and the black line remains.  If I remove the smaller backlight cable, and keep only the LCD input - there are no issues except for not having a backlight.

I'm wondering if these are just a bad batch or something.  I've reached out to the seller to see if he'll accept a return or send me two additional screens as replacement.

Hello chiil.

First off, you do a great job on this.

One question is, can you adjust the backlight brightness and will this take affect to the "dark" lines? My guess is the light is somewhat triggered and if it is switched "on" it is shortening the data from the display. Just a guess.

What I would try is to drive backlight directly from the battery but the current limited by a resisitor.

May be Carl Moreland can chime in.

[Cascade Steven]

Chiil:

Thanks for the update and although I do not have any answers, I do wish you the very best with this project.

[Geotech]

Trying to sub a color display is tricky. Did you compare the data sheets to make sure the flex tail pinouts were the same, and that the timing was the same? The fact that the sub works at all suggests they are very close, but the black bars may be due to a timing difference.