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12 hours ago, ognjen said:

What do you think of those results, and how much worse are they compared to some of the previously mentioned metal detectors in this discussion?

I actually confirm to myself that I want the Pulsedive 8" for snorkeling in the summer when the crowd observe and ask questions continuously...

The real change You can obtain, more than the depth, it is in the less trash/finds ratio.

A Vlf like D2 or Manticore or Nox900, can suit a bit different time management downthere.

As for me, going back to a Pulse now seems to be hard as hell, but the one You own it is a discrete tool and I like the idea to do my business without to have too much eyes on me.

Depth, frequency used, and a lot of other things, depends by location.

Don't stick to pre-boxed settings cause sooner or later the experience with the machine will tell how and where to change things.

  • Like 3

On 9/25/2024 at 9:58 AM, ognjen said:

I exclusively detect underwater in the sea. I have never detected outside of the sea, and for now, I don't have a strong desire to do so, so I will base the purchase of my next detector on that information.

The problem is that when you, for example, mention a frequency of 24kHz, I have no idea what you're talking about 🙂 I know that there are detectors with single frequency and multiple frequencies, but now to know what each frequency means and what it's good for... there are a lot of unknowns for me, which people who have used more metal detectors probably don't have.

The only thing I’m sure of is that I’ve made a list of metal detectors I’ve seen people use in saltwater. I’m still far from making any decision, or even narrowing down which underwater metal detector to choose that would be significantly better (i.e., give better results) than the Pulse Dive. Otherwise, with the Pulse Dive, I pretty much dig up everything, except when the detector beeps over a wide area and the signal is too loud—because then it's 100% nothing valuable.

If it’s not too much trouble, could you take a look at the part of the video where the coil is loaded and comment on the results? What do you think of those results, and how much worse are they compared to some of the previously mentioned metal detectors in this discussion?

I saw Michael Oliver from Australia in a YouTube video with the Deus II (not sure what coil he used), where he shows the distance underwater between the coil and a coin, and it seems like the distance is much greater than what the Pulse Dive can achieve. 

My 0.2 cents tip for Pulse dive use: Always when holding the handle of the metal detector, also hold a crumpled, flexible aluminum container in your hand. As you move your hand with the aluminum piece closer to the search coil, the detector will start to beep. At that point, simply move your hand with the aluminum back towards the handle, about half a centimeter, where detector not beeping. People says that this technique is known as "coil loading". It  increase the detection range of the detector by a few centimeters. The aluminum I using because it's malleable and comfortable to grip.

D2 dive mode is very shallow. I believe it it intentional because diving you don't typically use scoops?

Their beach modes are very deep especially for an IB machine and very stable in the salt. Ground tracking on them is excellent. I would suggest the 9" coil.

The seahunter is a pi and a dig all machine much like your pulse dive but much more powerful. Control box on it is heavy and meant for diving, 8" coil isn't all that great for beach combing and dry sand doesn't do as well as an ib machine like d2 and others. It is also very prone to emi and other machine interference. In the water the machine is excellent.

  • Like 4
3 hours ago, kac said:

D2 dive mode is very shallow. I believe it it intentional because diving you don't typically use scoops?

Not sure how "shallow" it is compared to the beach modes as I've never done the comparision, but Dive uses a default max FMF of 14 khz so it is not going to hit as hard on gold, especially small gold targets, so perhaps that what you were seeing.  Conversely, it should actually be the deepest overall mode on high conductors, as a result.  I think the reason XP chose 14 khz is that it is probably the most stable overall for high salt density environments you might encounter at the detecor's max dive rating of 20 meters, although they did also set the default salt sensitivity at its highest setting of 9 (i.e., least stable in high salt), so there's that.  Kind of a mixed bag.  One thing though, even in Dive mode the max FMF can be set to 24 or 40 khz to improve it's sensitivity to gold, at some decrease in salt stability.  Experimentation should show that identically set up Dive/Beach modes should have similar performance.  FWIW.

For the OP - D2 has greater dive capability over Manticore, but at the Manticore's submergence depth rating, utilizing the M8 coil which is smaller than D2's smallest coil (9" round), there seems to be anecdotal reports especially from Skull diver above, of Manticore having the edge over the D2 for submerged salt water detecting for gold jewelry. And as kac and Skull diver have mentioned, a vlf IB rig (Nox, Manticore, or D2) going to give you a better shot at selective digging and time management vs. either a hand-held PI like the pulse dive or a full-size PI rig.  Full size PI rig may have an advantage on depth, though, because it is not as subject to gold signal attenuation as the vlf IB rigs.

  • Like 6

When I measured the signal range where target frequency ended on the D2 between modes the dive mode was 6" and others at 9.5" on the 9" coil. The detection depth is always greater than that but as signal falls off at that point the id numbers will shift lower as the frequency drops off especially with mid and low conductors.

 

  • Like 2
18 minutes ago, kac said:

the signal range where target frequency ended

kac - what do you mean by "target frequency ended"?

ognjen  

Free diving for that many hours is pretty impressive to this old dirt pirate !👍

If you're deciding to get a larger detector there will be a learning curve.

Good News !  You are now posting on the best place to find the answers you seek and conquer that learning curve.

Here's a link to a lot of guide posts done up by our fearless leader Steve H. to get you started !

https://www.detectorprospector.com/magazine/steves-guides/steves-guides/

 Lots of other goodies already posted in the many things discussed to date and you can always ask more questions like this excellent one you have here ! 

Once you have a detector that is more capable you might be tempted to come ashore to detect from time to time too 😏  thar be treasure washed up and dropped ashore too 🏴‍☠️ arrrrrr !(and you won't have to hold your breath either)🖖 

Good luck on the bottom ! 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

You're doing well considering the depth limitation on the machine, but I can say for sure you are definitely missing a lot of deeper targets. I would highly recommend investing in a Minelab Manticore.

You will dig far less trash and better targets at depth. To put it in perspective, you only need about 29 grams of 18ct gold to pay off the machine and headphones. that's 3 heavy 18ct rings, or 5 average sized 18ct bands. Half if you got a Equinox 900 instead. Even less if you decided for a Equinox 700.

I've had many single hunts that have produced individually 20-30 grams of gold. I paid off my Manticore in the first 3 weeks I had it. 

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...

Late to the thread, just bought a pulsedive myself for a low profile snorkel detector and only free dive as well. Couple things to consider.
 

 Digging deeper will be harder and increasing difficult if you are out of arm’s length. Diving down detecting and returning several times to complete digging will hurt your time per target.  On wet sand my Equinox 800 has me digging much deeper than I could do on a breath hold.

Something like a Blue Nemo would be nice but battery life is short for the length of dives you do, one thing I love about freediving is the ability to stay in the water as long as you want

Cost to ship for repair/ replace when the seals give up, a few on here in other threads have mentioned selling their detectors while warranty is still good and buying a new one if in the water all the time so your detector is always under warranty.  Also you sell the old one while it still has value so the next one costs less.

I also considered something like a Nokta Triple Score, $500 for a waterproof to 16’ detector, is a pretty good deal and would likely give you more depth and discrimination. Affordable enough it’ not the end of the world if it dies. I have not used one though.  It would probably get you more in the shallows, then you still might want the Pulsedive when diving deeper.  Less resistance, less depth to dig, and your cover less area on a breathhold so coil size is less important. I think a better detector before a Blue Nemo if it was me.
 

Good Luck, Clear waters, and stay safe.   

 

  • Like 1

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