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  • The title was changed to Anybody Ever Seen Any Custom Rods For The F-75?

12 hours ago, Robert Eaton Jr said:

I'm always in a hurry when I detect, are there any collapsible it's quick change rods out there? I hate the push button connectors

The pod is affixed to the top of the handle, with wires running down the handle, into the upper rod, and then into the battery/speaker box under the arm. Swapping this out would be quite difficult, so nobody has done any rod options for the series as far as I know. That and it is one of the best ergonomically designed setups ever as is. If you hate the push buttons, simply pull them out of the rods and rely on the twist locks. But if you do so it will be easier for the rod to twist or be out of alignment.

fisher-f75-plus-ltd-se-metal-detector.jpg

  • Like 5

I made a custom rod for my F75. And the info from Steve is correct, the wiring between the pod and the battery box/rear electronics/speaker is the big problem. Also, the two sets of nut/bolt securing the handle to the shaft pass straight through the rod, hence blocking the insertion of telescoping rods.

My rod doesn't address your issues, anyway. I changed the length of the three rods ( new upper and middle aluminium rods, cut down carbon lower ) and some other tweeks, so I got minimum size when packed. I still used the original Fisher cam-locks on it.

With engineering skills, it should be possible to do what you're after, but it's not easy. The wiring could be run [b]outside[/b] the shaft if need be. Perhaps a length of heatshrink sleeving would toughen it up more.

It should also be possible to make a two-piece shaft: extending the upper by machining up a coupler tube that joins the upper to a cut-down middle-rod, then using a custom longer carbon lower rod ( is there a 'tall man' rod available from FTP? ). Then you only have one cam-lock / pip to bother with.

Surely, though, leaving the detector fully / near-fully assembled is the 'quickest' way to use it?

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The easiest tuning for the F 75 would be to leave the upper S rod with electronics as is... replace only the middle and lower rods... which will have a different lock....

...except in the case of detectors where the detector electronics, battery, and speaker are in one place.. for example Teknetic G2, Equinox.- this is a very simple tuning.. in the case of detectors similarly designed as the F 75.. things start to get really complicated...

 

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 Quote: "I hate the push button connectors"

What is the specific issue with the spring-pip / cam-lock ?

If you are using the shaft with the pip located in anything but the end hole, I can see that getting it located right is tedious.

One solution is to drill a new hole in the middle shaft, on the opposite side of the rod. Then you only have to slide the lower into one place, and it won't jump into another hole etc etc. It also doesn't foul on the square cam-lock wedge, too. Additionally, applying a band of electricians insulating tape ( white or yellow ) around the lower rod, just below your chosen insertion length, will guide your insertion. Insert the rod at 90 degrees, slide it in until the tape is indicating the correct insertion, then rotate the lower rod 90 degrees into the pip-hole.

[ the positioning of the cam-lock is poor design by FTP. The square hole for the cam-lock wedge should be opposite from the pip holes. Then the pip won't foul the wedge, wearing it down. My new custom shafts were made this way. ]

If you were wanting a telescopic shaft, the most obvious way would be to attach the new shaft below the existing upper rod, perhaps attaching just in front of the handgrip, and just in front of the elbow-cup.

Such a shaft would somewhat spoil the ergonomics of the S-bend... though it should be possible to fabricate an "offset coil ear adaptor" , to move the effective coil ear position to the rear end of the coil. This would shift the coil forwards maybe 3 inches / 7cm. That might claw back a little of the weight-shift.

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