Lower End Doesn't Want To Come Off

[Johnnysalami1957]

You may have to seperate the shafts and clean after every saltwater session. Any remaining salt even a small amount isn't soluble in lubricants and will attach to the shafts. Fresh water flush just doesn't reach the inside as much as needed to remove it.

[rvpopeye]

 Good point to mention 350 . New materials bring their own rules. Maybe SteveG can get/give more info about a compatible lube? 🤔

Fluid Film is made from lanolin and wax with no solvents , silicone or teflon but why take the risk? Some/most waxes are petroleum .Not beeswax. Back before I decided to be a music industry legend (almost but no cigar LOL ) I was a partner in a candle company.  

Thx for the warning thread Scully  ! Good info for all to know  (all shafts will probably be CF eventually) .  

And good advice for everybody to check shafts and clamps frequently for crud no matter what the shaft material or environment involved .  👍

[Badger-NH]

I would avoid using any type of lube on the shaft because the clamp could lose its ability to hold the shaft in place.

Candle wax sounds like a better idea. The shaft might not slide as smoothly but it will stay in place and be less likely to get stuck.

[Johnnysalami1957]

I think any type of material on the shafts would hold particles of talc like grit. Think of dirt sticking to oils in automotive applications. Maybe a dry lube like a teflon https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-Squeeze/dp/B000C17HKS?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&gQT=1&th=1

[Badger-NH]

19 hours ago, Johnnysalami1957 said:

I think any type of material on the shafts would hold particles of talc like grit. Think of dirt sticking to oils in automotive applications. Maybe a dry lube like a teflon https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-Squeeze/dp/B000C17HKS?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&gQT=1&th=1

The problem with even the dry lube is that it will make the shaft slippery, which is not what you want on some detectors because the clamp could lose its ability to grip the shaft properly. You could try it but it won't be easy to remove it if it doesn't work.

[Johnnysalami1957]

4 minutes ago, Badger-NH said:

The problem with even the dry lube is that it will make the shaft slippery, which is not what you want on some detectors because the clamp could lose its ability to grip the shaft properly. You could try it but it won't be easy to remove it if it doesn't work.

Maybe just thoroughly clean the shaft every time you go in salt water or the beach. I have had a few telescoping umbrella shafts stick because of sand. Had to wash them out. 

[Skull diver]

Updating some progress in trying to remove the locked lower end...

Right now at work with the only trick remained of a vise for the lower end and a 19 wrench to beat with a rubber hammer to the death... Slowly gaining some movement on the shaft and loosing it in two halves finally.

[Ripcode]

@Skull diver Do you separate and clean the shaft after each outing in water?  I have found if you don't, the sand builds up and locks the shaft.  And yes, I had that happen to me.  Now the the rods get separated and washed after every water hunt.

Me personally I would not use lubricate of any kind as that would attract and hold in sand faster than without lubricant.

Good luck to you! Hope you get them apart!!! 🍀

 

[Skull diver]

4 hours ago, Ripcode said:

 Do you separate and clean the shaft after each outing in water?

Almost everytime I'm back home, but recently I neglected this step for a month and payed consequence.

Results, in spite of a finally free lower end, it cracked and scratched in multiple spots.

The flexibility of the shaft it is part of the problem, cause melted salt grains were so hard bounded to the elements to make impossible sliding and no pull or push or rotate action worked until the lever and hammer worked.

Applied a thin layer of Vaseline™️ everywhere and recovered the mess.