KD0CAC

I can access most of the electrical parts , including the battery , the plastic / case is what I would not have access to .

I suspect the battery is ok , it probably just shut down when min. voltage was reached .

But I am waiting for the Deoxit carrier drys off , then test .

I will report what comes of it . 

I do not commonly do photos / videos , and was eager to remove salt and did not take before cleaning pic.s . 

Very heavy salt / corrosion inside of micro-USB plug and on the circuit board where the electrical / surface mount connections are made .

Also same on larger board at some of the wire sold points .

So soaking with alcohol & scrubbing with nylon brush , Q-tips & a carved down toothpick - to get inside of the micro-USB socket , at least half dozen times , then used Deoxit Gold with same scrubbing about 3 times , looks like new with magnification .

Will test in a day or 2 , need to leave Deoxit on all surfaces & wait to let dry - before plugging in .

The lithium battery has a BMS - Battery Management System board on one edge of battery , which if working as it should , would have shut down battery after low battery voltage is reached , so latter plug in to charge back up & test .   The short created by the salt turned the unit on / kinda , & drained the battery .

Hope this helps others when they fall into water , in this case salt water moving from boat to dock , heading to the beach . 

#1 , 2 , 3 , 4 with boards removed & cleaned .

#5 , 6 with boards installed .

#7 speaker back in , four holes for screws holding speaker in place .

#8 showing foam pad in place , look for little tabs on the inside edge - these clip the ear-pads in place .

#9 mostly back together , took all screws that I could see in the headband trying to get apart - as it turns out - did not have to remove any screws that you can see in both the ear pieces or the headband .

Ok got them apart ,  they unscrew .

1st have to pull the ear pads off by squeezing the pad with a couple fingers and also try to get under the plastic edge with another finger nail .

Under that is a flat foam pad just lying there , under the foam pad are four phillips screws , now apart enough to start repair .

Most of the damage was in the micro-USB , and the switches , so soaking a bunch with alcohol , Q-tips & rubbing with wooden toothpick .

I will wait and clean again tomorrow , then treat with one of the top contact cleaners Deoxit Gold .

I'l try to get some pictures & post .  

Again my main interest is taking apart - I have repaired lots of electronics , but this may snap together / apart ?

Or may be glued , so crack apart , would like to know in advance to either snap or crack 😉 ?

Now home and want to expose the boards & connections , figuring that the only long term fix is to scrub with alcohol . 

I'm still left with a couple questions .

Anyone open the headphones ?

And I would feel guilty , but is dropping in water / accidents under warrantee , about 5 months old ?

Found the same old junk on FL beaches , money & jewelry , no treasure yet 😉 

So still looking to open up , anyone open one of these ?

For more reasons than I want to get into , but for long life ?

I do circuit board repair , and do not accept rinsing with distilled water or especially the rice thing as a fix / repair , but can be parts to a complete repair .

Not that either do not have some beneficial aspects , but are very limited / incomplete in trying to solve any water issues 

Fresh water has many kinds of components in it - depending on the source , and most all leave corrosive effects  .

In electronic manufacturing - they use deionized water for cleaning , mostly to replace some other chemicals .

In repair isopropanol alcohol is most common .

Then in this case - salt-water is where I might start using as clean of water available !  - but on a boat away from any of the above , so being able to open the case and rinse off and scrub with drinking water is the best that can be done at this time ?    

Dropped the headphones in salt water ;(

Has anyone taken these apart ?

Want to try to clean , also I assume [ always dangerous ] that this is not covered under warrantee ?

The U.S. dollar is the benchmark pricing mechanism for the yellow metal .

The record high was about $1895 , some yrs. ago .

So still not a record high ?

Dang , a month late , yesterday was the 1st day on St. Augustine beach near what is called on a tourist map - fishing pier , it's being rebuilt , next to a visitors center .

Went south from there a mile or so , there was some cuts , checking the terminology , beach takes a 3' drop the middle of the beach / mean tide ?

The 1st 10 min.s I found a modern small silver ring & a late 60s dime [ old eyes could not make out ;( I was hearing nothing on default beach 1 & 2 , I even had to throw my own quarter out a few times for a test , just before finding my treasures .

I worked between 3-5 feet infront of the cut [ down hill side 😉 , another 2 hrs. and only found a piece of steel wire , so covered everything but something old .

1st time on the east cost , heading south maybe Thursday  , spouse to be storm .

Maybe to Fort Pierce , when you don't have a schedule , it's hard to be sure whats next .   

11 hours ago, glabelle said:

Try this. Works great for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AU6G64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

WB6YZZ

I looked at a bow case on craigslist , did not get there in time to see if it fit .

Your link looks like it should fit assembled .

Have to checkout when back from this trip .

You link to the hard case reminded me I had one , Pelican , that was holding in storage a spare ham radio , pulled out and all fit in , but it is too big & heavy , but it will be able to keep the Nox safe for the trip back , till I can find one that suits Goldilocks - smaller & lighter .

So still looking ?

With going to a sporting goods store , or before , looking a hard case , will need to do checked baggage for plane trip ?

I have done prospecting / mining 3 + decades ago and had lots of expensive topo maps , lost in fire , bummer had some X's marking some outrageous spots to go back to - to finish getting nu-gets out of a hole , that were the biggest ones I've found so far .

This was hours of dirt road , fire road and then hours of climbing , I may not be able to do today - oldfarters .

With the prospecting - walking in geologically known good area's , would like to monitor staying off of others claims , that may or may not be available as a software - current claims [ within a reasonable timeline at least that yr. if not less ? ]  .

I do have my iphone in a otterbox defender , and have had dropped off 50-80' antenna towers & survived , but most of the mining I want to do , is in / near rivers streams , otterbox will not help with that .

The part of if someone did the same thing prospecting and in or near water is a biggy , then I have looked at a lot of internet searching , and find lots of deal killers reading through spec.s / then also trying to avoid things I may not notice , that others , doing prospecting may have suggesting details .

I have been in solar / wind for about 4+ decades , another big but 😉 , is when you in narrow river / stream valleys , forested , you may only see the sun for as little as 2-3 hours , or less .

Lots of good ideas , but the been-there-done-that is kinda what I'm looking for - to help what I miss also .

Kinda like a picture making up for a 1,000 words , having used a device in a specific use , vs. all the possibiltles and then find any issues in the field ;(

Hopefully everyone does not take offense , understands , one major thing I've learn to mining / away from sources , same with my mobile service , need to be able to do what ever I need without have to go back to town , kinda like doing plumbing - making one trip to hardware store .   

Well I am not looking for adding an , at least without someone doing the same things , AND USING IT , vs knowing there is an app .

As an example , looked a a topo app and one of the big issues which turns into at least 2 issues " this app uses your location even when app isn't open #1 , 2nd is charging / not able to swap batteries , then memory & storage of maps ect. 

And then someone that has used device for mining , finding claims , marking claims etc. 

Again rather than being hours +++ plus away from any changing , upgrading etc. a suggestion for a handheld dedicated [ swap battery , water & shock proof etc. ] maybe more unknown issues ?

Even if my iphone / app would give me most all I'm looking for , charging vs. batteryswap , ease of damage , lots of times a week or so before going to the grid , internet etc.

If you having been in this situation , it's hard to get all that may be required , with having been prospecting / mining .

A new iphone at least $800 , a GPS unit $150-300 .

Thanks  

But out mining there is no such thing as cell phone reception ?

Yes sitting at home & couching it / research , there are far better options , BIG-BUT no reception working a site !

Why the term record high ?

It's about $400 under the record .

But I am going to go look for more 😉

I use to mine in No. CA in the 80s & 90s and used topographical maps back then with lots of details , fire & logging road etc.

Any suggestions , I would like to check display & available details ?

Will be leaving for FL from MN about Fri. , 1st time to FL and only had & used my 800 a few times before winter socked me & the detector in ;(

Used a bunch of detectors about 20 yrs. ago walking the dog in local parks & beaches - with the intent of getting back to gold mining / underwater suction dredging in No. CA in the 80s-90s , one of these days .

On 1/23/2020 at 10:22 AM, Tom Slick said:

OK, I don't hunt a lot in the summer heat but at least I don't have to shovel it. 😁

Goldilocks 😉 

I left something else out - doggy dew .

This was for mobile / auto motive / cigarette lighter , generally these are connected to 10 amp fuse at most .

So between the truck & boat , have a charging source .

This is my buddies thing going to FL with him , he will in the boat throwing everything back , I figure if I catch it - I should eat it 😉

So I will be mostly on the beach looking for goodies in the beach .

If I was by myself , truck & Airstream trailer - with solar , I would use the trailer's system , but riding with my friend - will be using his cigarette lighter in either the boat or truck .

I did a thread search , but could not find the post that I read about the 5 amp warning - so must have been a nightmare 

;(

Will be heading for FL beaches this weekend , should make it FL 4-5 days to play .

Thanks all 

I would like to assume [ that can be an issue - because the acronym says so 😉 , that all consumer grade batteries - batteries are made up of cells - which are some number of cells to make a battery , again most consumer grade .

An example of common single cell lithium that come with BMS chips , 18650 cells have a BMS chip under the positive connector .

Where as non consumer cells come without mostly - one BMS per battery , instead of one for every cell - cost cutting vs. battery - multiple cells building companies is normally added when they build a battery of cells . 

Every lithium chemistry should have a BMS Battery Management System , this depending on manufacture should have AT LEAST low voltage , high voltage , overcharge cut-out .

And the better manufactures would have temp high/low cutouts also .

I should add , forgot where I read it [ or thought I did ] - just did remember after the replies .

I did check the manual , 1.7 amps @ 5vdc ,   Which my added info , Ohms law says  8.5 watts .

I read a discussion here , as I remember .

So also the needed discussion - to talk about , the 5 amp reading here , have to do a search on that thread ?

Want to find the reasoning / proof of the 5 amp discussion ?

Or maybe I had a nightmare 😉

I seem to remember that reading that the NOX 800 required a 5 amp USB charger ?

Can not find such an item ?

I do a lot of battery stuff - automotive , solar , electronic etc.

And generally it's referred to as C-rate - for charging batteries , the only issue from all of my experience is a lower C-rate just charges slower , but can not do harm .

So what's up with the NOX 800 , I can only guess that in a manual it will say it will charge in a set amount of  time ?

So what's up with my memory of reading something like " NEEDS 5 AMPS " , or 25 watts .  

What about water proof for diving & wireless .

Have the NOX 800 with original headphones & the adapter box .

But waterproof & wireless 😉

Thanks