CaptainCoinSpill

9 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

I assume at least some of what you've been reading is on other forums.  Yes, we've been excited here too with Garrett finally getting into the simultaneous multifrequency game and coming out with their first new design in several years.  The Equinox has been out since early 2018 and if you were to go back to late 2017 and early 2018 and read all the posts about it you would suffer from reader's cramp.  😁  There is certainly a tendency here for people to defend their favorite detector or brand, but there is also a lot of objectivity, thanks to Steve H. setting a good example.  And its natural for people to get excited with the birth of a new baby.   As far a inaccurate representations/reports, that gets squelched (by counterposts) here pretty quickly, particularly if done with apparent ill intent.  We're a tolerant bunch for the most part, but we don't put up with inaccurate attacks.

It was on a sub forum on here...pretty heated debate I tried to find the post but gave up.  He was trashing the EQ pretty good I believe even Tnhunter dealt with him.  I agree this forum is solid for sure.  Sinclair I may not have but 40 hours on this machine but I’ve been swinging for 27 years.  I acknowledged That every situation is different.  There isn’t any doubt this machine can do it all and do it well!

GPZ 7000 😂jk...jump all over the 400 at $100.  That’s a slam dunk right there.

On 6/4/2020 at 7:24 AM, Steve Herschbach said:

Multi-IQ plus 11” coil = 👍🏼

I personally would also not be without the 6” and 15” and get good use out of both. 6” for gold prospecting, 15” for ground coverage. Between the three the Equinox does have things pretty well covered. I’d like to see a 6” x 10” elliptical or 8” round, preferably both.

If you are gold prospecting then the 6” would be the coil of choice for sure(and tight spaces although not significant to me) .  Now...6 x 10” elliptical was by FAR my favorite coil on the 705.  That is the one coil I would want to acquire if it ever came available for the EQ that would be a killer tool.  

On 6/3/2020 at 6:14 PM, Tom Slick said:

    I've been using an Equinox 800 since they first came out. I was one of many that were really hoping that Minlab would release other coils for the Nox. I bought all three and sold the 15" shortly after buying it as it didn't do anything for me in my type of hunting in my sites. The more I used the Nox, the more impressed I became with just how well the 11" coil works. For most of my past and present detectors  I've had a whole collection of accessory coils for different situations. With my Multi Kruzer as well as most of my past Makro detectors I've had 4 or 5 extra coils for each. As much as I'd still like to see some other Nox offerings, I can honestly say that if Minelab does release any other coils for the Nox, I probably won't buy one. For an 11" coil, it does remarkably well at unmasking. Going over the same areas with the 6" afterwords seldom pulls out extra finds. Maybe one here or there but for the most part, I think the 11" does great. 

During this Codiv-19 break, and the fact that's it's just too darn hot to detect, I've had a chance to do quite a bit more testing and the Equinox with the 11" coil can really hold it's own. My XP ORX is a hair faster, but in testing the Nox with 11" coil against quite a few other "Iron Hunters" The Nox is a real winner. Is it the coil, the detector, or both? I don't really care as long as it works.    

Tom I’ve been saying the exact same thing.  This 11” picks every good target out of the ground and my area is stuffed with trash. I don’t see a need for a 6”.  Ive put 40 hours on this machine and it Is simply amazing.  I feel I’m breaking through and have no need to add another coil.  To me you just get a little more mass or less mass when swinging the alternate coils and that’s it...not enough of a significant impact to make the acquisition in my opinion.  Sometimes the best thing to do is nothing at all. HH

On 6/23/2020 at 6:24 PM, Chase Goldman said:

No one has really forgotten about the Equinox - it is simply a fact that those who know detectors well and who are open minded enough to keep from being handcuffed by brand loyalty, probably already own one.  The people who are talking about the Apex never heard of the EQ because it was not manufactured by Garrett.  I am interested in Garrett's FIRST GEN multi rig and glad they have jumped into the race with a competitive machine that they can build upon - I plan to get one to see how they did.   But it will not replace the EQ 800 by a long shot - heck it isn't even in the same league as the EQ 600 (see my comparison chart here) even if you consider price vs. performance/features.   The Equinox represent's ML's FOURTH generation multi-frequency iteration.  Garret is back in the game but they have been lapped a couple of times already and have a lot of catching up to do.

I see...I guess I read to many posts and reviews sometimes.  Now that I have about 40 hours on this eq 600, I’m more confident and excited than I’ve ever been since I started swinging in 1992.   Anyone that knocks the EQ just don’t know how to properly become one with the machine or has alterior motives.  I’ve seen quite a few ridiculous debates the last few weeks(I won’t mention his name) and it irritates me because people trying to figure out what machine to go with may be turned off due to a rogue goofy view.  Anyways, I appreciate all of your passion and help and I never thought I would find a board this good!  It has increased my learning curve twice fold and I can’t wait to get back out tomorrow!  I wish I could give back the time and tips I have received because it means a lot!  

1 hour ago, Joe D. said:

 Congratulations Captain,

You are now well on your way to becoming a "nickelaire"!!💰   Don't spend it all in one place!😂🤣

(Just kidding!) 👍👍

PS- put a couple more loops of the cable around the shaft, so it doesn't flop around (interference!)  Or get hung up and get damaged!👍

Yea I just noticed that when I got home...I pack into my Minelab bag and have to compress the lower rod To fit it and didn’t notice it caused it to get loose like that.  I can tell someone hammered this park because all I pulled up was nickels(13)...5 freaking quarters, 6 dimes in trash, and a truck load of pennies in trash.  This machine is amazing now that I figured the fat nickels out,  I’m branching out to other lower conductive targets.  I see no need for the 6” coil at all this stock coil picks every good target out no matter the trash.  I’m getting close to having this beast down.  Everyone talking about the apex and have forgot about the EQ already.  I do various depth tests every hunt and I’m consistently hitting: dime at 10”, penny at a foot, and quarters at 14” and all those #s are hitting plenty dig strong.  HH

Breakthrough!  I’ve crushed 9 fat nickels in my first hour of hunting and this is what I’ve found out.  When you hook into a small target and it jumps 12-13 the key to nickels is to have the vdi at 13 MOST of the time.  75% or so on average and every target so far has been a nickel.  I went from one nickel to 10 in one hour and every target held true to that.  Of course everyone’s soil is different but I have a feeling this holds true for many.  GB_Pro and I are going thru this life one nickel at a time😁

I'll let you in on a secret, as long as you don't tell anyone.  Agree?  (Whispering:)  They've been out there too!      That’s funny stuff right there .,,, lol as I’m sitting in my truck before I swing next to a creek lmao.

1 hour ago, GB_Amateur said:

I'll let you in on a secret, as long as you don't tell anyone.  Agree?  (Whispering:)  They've been out there too! 

In theory people are more likely to lose a piece of jewelry, ring in particular, in and around water than on dry land.  I find a Mercury dime and it has about $1.20 in silver content.  Water/beach hunter finds a 3 gram 14kt gold ring and it's bullion value alone is $100.  I likely find more Mercs than the average water/beach hunter finds gold rings, but I don't know if I can beat that ~80::1 advantage I'm spotting them.

Bottom line is that most of us get paid in fun, not money.  You just have to decide where the most fun is.

Oh believe me I’m not trying to focus on an income here...it’s pure passion and enjoyment regarding our hobby.  I make plenty of $ with my business.  Many people probably think we are insane getting a $1 or $2 an hour in the 95 degree heat(it’s hot here).  For me it’s the thrill and the challenge of the hunt!  I like to hook into something unknown that will produce unknown results.  GB I don’t like that secret very much and you have saddened me☹️Lol.  I do still feel there are places in central Texas because no one else detects around here...most people look at me like an alien around here.  Your bad news may be the case...but I’m smarter than the rest and will up the ante with research with old maps, getting wet in obscure places, and out working the rest.  GB_Pro you better stop being mean to me😉

I hate hearing about most of of the good finds being stripped away over time.  That is why I’m taking to the water...to me that’s the new frontier.

9 minutes ago, palzynski said:

Ok I understand , actually I know a lot of areas over here littered with modern junk ( small pieces of aluminium , etc  .. ). For example along the roads. Actually I prefer to flee from such areas … Location is the key word when detecting … Detector settings comes after. Perhaps you should try to find a cleaner place outside the big town .. 

Sorry I missed  your last post 50 trash/ 50 coin is quite a good ratio from my standpoint. In my area with the 1st WW war it is more:  90 ww trash / 10 other (( coin and artefacts ). So over here the pb is more the 1st WW trash than the modern trash … 

Oh wow you are so lucky to be north of France!  I’m obsessed with ww2... I’ve always wanted to come to that area and actually dig ww pieces...it’s always been my top preference location wise.  I watch a few hours of ww2 documentaries probably every other day or so...everything I can get my hands on.  You are right at the end of the day we Just have to think out of the box and find the best locations.  I’m getting a little tired of typical parks it may be time to knock on some doors and take some chances...I just feel goofy bothering people😔

12 hours ago, Joe D. said:

Captain, 

  I feel your frustration!🤬, but the junk goes with the territory! Especially with lower conductor's! I dug almost $9 dollars in change today in a 4 hour split hunt, at two different locations! No silver or gold anything today, but I'm happy with my clad count! I'm more or less, on your same level with the Knox, I think!  The low conductors can wear you out digging! But are often the most rewarding! But my hearing just naturally goes to quarters, dimes, (and freaking pennies) for some reason! I have no problem finding those! But nickels are in a tough area (13ish), and gold is all over the map depending on size and depth, etc.. And so is alot of junk! The nuances between them can be a blur!  If i lived in an area that was old enough to have a decent amount of silvers, i think i would clean up! But i take what i can get! Anyway, i digress!

   I would say, dig the lower conductors when you are fresh in a hunt (and the trash)!  When you get frazzled, or worn out, just hit the easy high conductors for awhile to give yourself a break! The clad adds up, and you may get a silver coin, or ring while you are relaxing a bit!

    That's all i got man! The Master's will further try and steer us in the right direction, I'm sure! In the meantime, keep up the good fight! And enjoy the ride!👍👍

(Just some of the trash, sight finds, and coins! I like the cool lead moon guy!)

Excellent response Joe I really appreciate it and your situation fits mine to the T!  I think the early vdi # dig and transition to more a cherry pick mentality will be my strategy.  Also wow on the pennies...my first 15 good targets were all modern pennies...the EQ clearly would vote for Lincoln!  I love when I hook into a quarter at 28 or 29 because it really is clear...just like dimes and above.  I don’t get these people on a rampage saying the I’d sucks on these machines(I read a back and forth debate on another posting).  I feel it is the best I’ve ever had...I simply know what coin is there(except for nickels).  So I’m going to dig 12-13 and Of course the high conductors...and dig singles and some teens the first hour or so in my hunt.  I’ll go from there.  Also great hunt Joe you cleaned up on the clad...now if we can just get that 30 something tone and sink into some quality silver we will be in the drivers seat!

2 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

I have an Equinox 800.  I search in 5-tone mode and use its capabilities to custom set my tone breaks, tone volumes, tone pitches (audio frequencies) to match the USA modern coins (nickels plus Indian Heads and up) when I'm hunting areas that I've determined didn't have 19th Century activity.  The (latter) old sites I dig pretty much all non-ferrous, or at least above ~5 on the digital TID scale.  When I get a tone in the coin ranges I investigate.  In the meantime I don't need to look at the display.

I can see that with the 600 you have to notch out a lot.  I've never let the detector discriminate for me that way.  OK, with the Tesoro Vaquero I've set the one-way discriminate threshold to eliminate iron and tiny foil since those analog(-like) detectors don't give you as many tone options (except maybe the Fisher CZ's).  With the ML X-Terra 705 I would toggle back and forth between "all metal" and discrimnate to investigate and eliminate the annoying iron wraparound.  But using the two Fishers (Gold Bug Pro and F75) I just listened to everything and let my brain do the discrimination.  I continue that method with the Eqx 800.

And I still dig a lot of trash.  Some pulltabs ID like nickels (sound and visual).  This spring at my 'new' park I've dug 1 nickel for every 7(!) pulltabs, and to emphasize, all those are in the 12-13 TID (with possibily occasional blips of 11 or 14 on an individual target).  If I were digging the 14-17 where most pulltabs ping I wouldn't come home with much else.

Regarding not finding old coins, that might be because it's been searched in the early days of VLF's (1980's and 1990's) and they haven't left much for you....   And/or you are just dealing with randomness.  Again, for comparison, in my current park I'm getting a ratio of 7 old coins (Wheaties and older pennies, Buffies and older nickels, any coin containing silver) for every 10 nickels.  If that sounds like a lot, consider another metric:  0.38 Wheats per hour and 0.24 'other old coins' per hour.  So a 4 hour hunt I average 1 or 2 Wheaties and 1 'other'.  Of the 30 times I've hunted that park I've been skunked on 'other old coins' the majority of the time -- 18 skunks to 12 cashes.  Yes, my park has been hunted by others over the years but it's still my best producing local park or school ever.  (In many ways we're 30+ years late to the game.  😪)

Finally, you say the ballfield has been in use since at least 1958.  That translates to about 13 years (1958 thru ~1970) when silver coins were still in circulation.  Now if 1958 is your earliest map/photo then maybe it was there earlier?  Meanwhile clad has been being deposited for over 50 years and counting.

It doesn't sound like you can do much more than you are already doing.

My bad I didn’t see your response till after I replied to Pal let me analyze and reply...sorry.  Ok so after looking at your ratio trash wise maybe I just need to suck it up and dig more trash.  My ratio is 50-50 actually probably more like 60% good coins vs 40% trash.  Guess that puts me on the extreme side of the trash scale.  I have gotten pretty fast at recovering a target(usually under 30 secs) so I may just have to dig the 12-13 target regardless.  Maybe some single digits too depending on the interrogation of the target.

7 hours ago, palzynski said:

Hi captain ,

I entirely agree with Joe's answer , there are valuable targets in the 10-20 range . For example in Europe we have small/very small old coins starting from 1gram weight that are in this 10-20 tid range ... So I never use the notch on my MLs. For info I use the  50 tones mode on the Eq , with this I can easily recognize the aluminium foil with a very low tone (below 10 TID ) .  So most of the time I dig all targets , except those very low conductivity alu foils.

However in some rare situations I only dig medium/high conductors above 20 tid , for example when looking for 1st WW relics , buttons , buckles … which are rather high conductors

Of course on the beach with a lot of trash pulltabs etc it might be different , but I am not a beachcomber , only inland detecting so I will not answer on this  ..

Just to finish an example showing that one must be careful with the notch function. See pic below, in my hand 2 very different targets , a 1st WW  10 grams lead schrappnel a very common rubbish in my area , and a very nice antique 4 grams gold coin ( that I bought in a shop ,not found by myself … ). Actually  those 2 targets have exactly the same TID at 17 ! So if I notch 17 to eliminate the schrappnell rubbish , I will never find this kind of coin because it will be also be eliminated by the notch ...

 

I can certainly understand your viewpoint regarding the notching.  I must say that I think the level of trashiness here in central Texas is a real extreme comparing most places in the world...especially in the UK I suspect.  You see, most people have little to no respect here and feel nature is one big trash can.  Maybe I need to make a quick video showing my plight and throw in on here just to drive home how bad it is. It literally is almost impossible to find open ground to balance.  Yes I know that is impossible and you are right but it takes a real act to find that open piece.  I may just have to live with 20 plus on the disc mode until I can find better soil to swing in.  Of course I hate that but at this point I don’t feel I have an option.

On 6/20/2020 at 5:29 PM, palzynski said:

Yes the Equinox is a little more complex than other machines like the Xterra , Deus , Tesoros , etc .. Actually it took me one year to master its audio and settings  , although I already had a good experience of the ML multifreqs with my Explorer XS. The Equinox is a little "chatty" it takes time to get used to it … Just my opinion 

On the other hand when you know the machine it is a powerful detector , very sensible on targets of all sizes , big and tiny .  I like the ML multifreqs . For info  at the moment I use a Vanquish 540 which I find as efficient as the Equinox for what I am doing ( coin hunting on mild soils ) , this with a simplified user interface.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well consider this an update to the original issue and consider it solved.  Once I reset the machine and fine tuned all the settings multi is certainly deeper, vdi #s more stable and accurate, and more decisive when I hone in on a target. I swung for 3 hours earlier and feel I’m finally breaking thru!  I know everytime what coin I’m over and depth 95% of the time.  I’ve learned to raise and lower coil as I attack from each direction as I execute a proper interrogation of the target.  I only have one semi issue that bothers me.  Everytime I start my hunt I dig single #’s, teens, and of course the 20 plus good tones.  I’ve learned to dodge the can slaw and most pull tabs by proper execution of obtaining info on the target.  To the people that say the vdi #s are all over the place blah blah blah all I can say is you haven’t become one with the machine.  I pretty much call every good target as I pinpoint to the point I can pop it with a gasket remover. Now to the possible last issue as referenced just now.  Every target under 20 has been rubbish for me...I keep 12-14 open and have found one freaking nickel..this is after I tighten the disc.  Every half swing in my ground I get 3-5 decent low vdi #s and a third is repeatable to the point I’ll dig. Well...after spending my first hour pulling up trash I tighten my disc up to 20 plus and 12 to13 open only...I simply can’t get anywhere if I’m digging a bunch of crap the whole time.  This happens everytime and yes I consider my location...if I’m on the beach I’m digging it all as well as a top shelf virgin location.  I have quite a conundrum because this scenario unfolds every time I start swinging in my old baseball field and parks in my little town.  Once I get out into the field and the trash thins out I feel a lot better overall and will open it back up....but constant low trash #s cause me to tighten the discrimination.  Early on I feel I’m going against professional protocol closing in the disc. and that makes me sad.  Would most of you pros do the same or continue to dig the many repeatable and small low #s even though they are almost always rubbish?  I don’t know which way to go because I have to get my coil over quality vs a small patch of crap.  I pulled in $5 in clad in a couple of hours and did decent overall...smoked a 9” dime but no oldies even though this baseball field is the same layout as the aerial 1958 map I analyzed earlier.  I can’t believe I haven’t hooked into any oldies here yet even as I dig 6-9” thru out my hunt.  Please advise.

12 hours ago, wltdwiz said:

i sold the cz to rick & have had it in the fresh water diving no leaks .....

i dident use the pinpoint button ez to pinpoint in discriminate

feel free to give me a ring & i can tell you more about your machine

walt

928-715-5324 az time

Awesome thanks so much...once I get it I’ll def give you a ring!  

Nice thanks for the info.  I plan to run auto tune and not use the pinpoint.  I’ve researched almost every article or video out there and I like the 3 tone simplicity of the machine.  Plan on using this in deep water and the EQ on land and shallow water.  I can’t wait to fire it up and see what it can do!

14 hours ago, Tony said:

The CZ20 PP button has a history of leaking which is why Fisher dropped it on the CZ21. I had a CZ21 for a few years and couldn’t fault the performance BUT the battery compartment had a history of leaking on me and causing major problems. I was meticulous in setting the gasket correctly and applying just the right amount of pressure on the battery lid knurled knobs......sometimes it leaked and sometimes it didn’t. I had three new gaskets which still didn’t fix the problem. Fisher assured me that I was doing everything correctly and by the book.......I guessed it leaked about 30% of the time. You must check the battery compartment as soon as you are out of the water to make sure no water....otherwise it will destroy the 4 x 9v battery holder very quickly. In the end, the CZ21 had to go....if I had my time again I would design an external battery compartment and never use the original one again except for the  battery wires. Otherwise......great detector. 
PS.....I would consider sealing over the PP button if it’s not important to you. Auto tune is so precise that PP isn’t needed. Run the power high...mine never falsed. Disc set to hear iron and you’re good to go. I never used the GB function much but experiment either fully clockwise or fully anti clockwise as the depth performance can vary from model to model and depending on your ground conditions.

Besides sealing the pinpoint button with waterproof silicone...what would you recommend to secure the battery compartment?  I may get lucky and it will be fine but I doubt it.  What if I siliconed the edge everytime and just cut it open each time?  I know the batteries last a long time so I wouldn’t mind doing that.

Man that is really sad!  I still have the Prizm which my kids love!  I always loved the way they were made and the ease of operation.  They were always in the convo when I was looking for a high end machine.  You can see by all the new tech we are at a crossover point in our hobby.  The DEUS really got the really competitive brands moving to catch up or accel.  White’s, like Steve said above, never moved forward from the V3I and some of the other great units they made YEARS AGO.  For us detectorist...we are in a golden time but I’m bummed out over White’s that is for sure.

So I got a good deal on the cz20 as I’ve been looking to start diving and swinging.  I only have a few questions.  Some of my research has said the pinpoint button has leaking issues?  In your opinion is something to be concerned about?  If so, should I silicone over it or do a seal refurb? I started at 13 years old with the M scope 1235x and loved it.  I saw this purchase as a way to grab a hold of that old magic.  I remember seeing this unit in the brochure and thinking how much I’d like to try that high dollar beast!  Now thanks to a good seller on here I’ll have that chance!  Any other tips, tricks, or general aspects I should entertain would be greatly appreciated!  Glad to be back in the Fisher club!

Absolutely...you can research till you are blue in the face, but unless you get out and put the time in you will never truly be proficient.  I detect every other day on average... since I work from home.  I learned the 705 after hours and hours of swinging...I’ll do the same with the EQ and then some.  However I must say I’ve never had a multi MHz machine before, so it is a different ball game in many aspects.  I’ll be honest...I thought i would learn it fast. Learning curve is more than I anticipated.  I’m off to hook into a coin spill!  Thanks so much you are awesome!

52 minutes ago, GB_Amateur said:

That sounds like my current park.  Aluminum is potentially everywhere from TID 1 (very small piece of foil) up into the 30's (often an aluminum drink can) but the sweetspot for pulltabs is 14-17, and those (in my case) are everywhere.  I want nickels -- sweetspot 12-13 -- and even there I dig 2 to 3 times as many pulltabs as nickels (mostly the smallest ring-and-beavertails or larger beavertails alone, i.e. missing the ring are the ones that TID as nickels).  My park has been hunted but it seems that at least some of those detectorists were so annoyed with pulltabs that they just decided to ignore nickels, too.  (Good for me!)

Can slaw can't be so easily compartmentalized.  If its shape is assymetric (e.g. long and narrow) then when you position yourself 90 degrees away from your initial hit (I like to call this changing angle of attack) it will give a different TID.  Be aware that coins not oriented horizontally (not parallel to your coil) can also do this, though.  My rule of thumb for nickels is to require half my hits be in the 12-13 and even then ignore if there is a 15 or 10 mixed in.  (Even those loose cuts cost me a coin on occasion.)  However, and this is very important, only make selection cuts after you've located the target and are swinging (small swings are fine) with the target directly under the coil housing's attachment bolt!  TID's won't be as accurate if the target is off-center of the coil.

If crown caps are a problem, adjusting Iron Bias will help.  There has been considerable discussion on this site about Iron Bias, particularly lately.  Personally I don't have problems with crown caps since they aren't prevalent in my parks.  But for some people, especially beach hunters, that's a different story.  You can read more about that on other threads here.

You seem to have experience prior to getting your Eqx 800, so maybe what I say now is already ingrained from your previous experience.  However, others (maybe not as experienced) will read this and although it's been said before, IMO it is worth repeating.  Every detectorist (and it can even vary for an individual detectorist depending upon things like particular site and time allotment) has a tolerance for digging trash.  Think of a linear scale.  At the left end you don't want to miss a single good target so you dig everything, regardless of TID.  On the right end of the scale you are so averse to digging trash that you refuse to dig anything!  (OK, those people don't stick around.  😄)  As you move from left to right, you become more choosy in what you dig so as to avoid digging trash.  But as you move from the left you begin to lose desired items, not many at first, but still some.  Near the right end, almost everything you dig is a desired target, but a lot of your rejects are desirable and you have to accept leaving those.  Each detectorist lands somewhere on that scale.  Yours will be different from mine and mine will be different from ____'s.

There are other tricks to help mentally discriminate besides just TID.  I'm not going to go into those (partly because I'm not so good at them), but from my experience you have to develop those tricks yourself as they are very difficult to explain.  Even when shown on YouTube videos they are confusing in my experience, and of course they are susceptible to the same issues as just discussed with the TID trash avoidance scale.

There you go!  Surface coins are pretty easy, but those typically (definitely exceptions as I've proven many times) are the modern coins -- last 55 years in US (not silver, for example).  The deeper targets are weaker and they often don't give the clean signals.  It's like tuning an AM radio which has a (continuous) frequency adjustment knob.  If the station is close you don't have to be so accurate adjusting the frequency.  It still sounds loud and clear with no interference from other stations.  If it's far away, you have to fiddle a lot more with the knob to get it just right and even then you still hear scratchy noises and even other stations fading in and out.  If you've developed a rigid "got to be a perfectly clean signal before I dig" criteria you would have left those Wheaties in the ground for the less choosy detectorist to later collect.

The best detetors give you a lot of information in their reporting.  They are made for those who train their brain to be the discriminator.  It's like the old saying goes -- they give you enough rope to hang yourself.  Someday when artificial intelligence is incorporated into detectors (it will happen...) this may not be the case, but for many of us that will take much of the fun out, and further make it so easy that every Tom, Dick, and Mary will be out there sweeping up the good targets and there will be nothing left to find.

WOW...that’s all I can say to that synopsis! You should seriously consider writing a book, because that is some of the best analysis I’ve read.  I LOVE THIS SITE!  The linear scale regarding the quantity of trash to dig is right on!  I also understand the nuances and the aspects that aren’t explainable when getting proficient with our machines.  With the 705 I knew exactly what was under the coil...I already know what modern clad I have under my coil with the EQ. I did not know about the TID #s changing in relation to the part of the coil.  I do look at the coil as a slice down the middle and that’s my focus...however the changing TID #s off the slice do cause me to come off of certain targets...even after intense interrogation.  I can tell if it’s a deep target by the tone and the other classic signs.  The issue I’m having Is I’ll move to execute a verification Of the target and it’s not there...or it seems to move.  I have to figure out when to dig one way targets and when not too. I assume it’s other trash in the target range when I get jumping goofy #’s...but I feel i waste time trying to figure out if it’s worth digging.  I’ve already gave up on nickels...I feel I need to get off of that mentality but i simply get sick of digging crap...guess I’m on the right end on the scale but that does depend on my location. The am radio Reference is again, a homerun example.  You have me ready to get swinging!  Awesome synopsis GB_PRO😄

Anyone have a 6” for sale on here?  Should I ask this in the selling section?

1 hour ago, Chase Goldman said:

Ok Captain,

You have a lot of stuff going on here and I will try to address it individually.

 

Why did you do that in the first place?  As far as disc is concerned, just leave it at the mode default of 0, 1 or 2 as applicable, for now.  Nothing is gained by cranking on disc, as you found out.

BTW - how many tones are you typically running?  

I never buy the argument that you can't find a place to GB.  Just turn the pinpoint mode on, swing the coil to a point where pinpoint is silent and pump the coil to GB there.  Regardless, even if there is a huge variation in ground phase, it really should not result in a dramatic reduction in depth if not perfectly balanced.  The main effect of improper GB on Equinox is just more ground noise (iron range grunts with TIDs of -9 to -7).  In fact, people often mistake this ground noise for multiple ferrous targets (believe me, it's not).  So the best method to determine if you have a target under the coil is to go to pinpoint mode.  BTW - just as GB asked, what kind of trash are you encountering - ferrous or non-ferrous or both.  Makes a difference in how you attack the site.

If you are getting a lot of ferrous junk, then you will want to lower sensitivity and possibly increase recovery speed to enable you to "sift" through the ferrous.  Lowering sensitivity lowers the propensity of the ferrous targets to overload the coil.  Increasing the recovery speed setting enables you to unmask non-ferrous targets in the vicinity of ferrous targets.  Using a 6-inch coil under those conditions helps you to fare even better.  The deal hear is no at all about getting depth, but being able to hear those shallow keeper targets that have been masked and are invisible to detectors with slower recovery speeds.  Coil control is also important - if you get a sweet, but intermittent, high tone.  See if you can wiggle the coil across the target to lock into that tone repeatedly.  If you can do that, then dig that keeper.  

I have no idea because I don't crank disk up that high, I seldom even use notch.  In fact, I really prefer hunting with no disc using the horseshoe button as long as the iron is not too crazy.  Otherwise, I just leave it at the mode default.  If you want to disc out iron, don't set disc any higher than 2 and don't use disc to block out non-ferrous junk unless you are using basically a precision notch (e.g., 14 to 19 to knock of pull tabs an zincolns) and even in that case, I won't do it for fear of knocking out a gold target which can show up anywhere from 2 to 20+.  I mostly hunt relics, so they usually fall right in the aluminum trash range.  Try to hit sites without a lot of aluminum trash, but sometimes it just can't be avoided so you have to dig it unless you are experienced enough (which is a nice way of saying you have already dug a ton of aluminum) to know the tonal nuances associated with can slaw and bent tabs.

You also said: 

How were you determining in the field which was the "better choice" between multi and 5 khz?  Were you interrogating targets with multi and 5 khz or where you switching back and forth as you started getting less finds?

Also, here is a little primer mode optimization for specific targets - Best general purpose mode is Park 1, it is also good for high conductors and larger targets.  Field 1 is a great two-tone mode that also favors larger or more conductive targets.  Park 2 and Field 2 are geared towards small targets, gold, and other primarily mid-conductive targets like nickels and brass/lead relics.

Another variable is your iron bias setting.  Too high and it can mask non-ferrous targets.  Too low and you might be subject to more iron falsing.  Note that iron bias is disabled while in single frequency.

HTH.

First off thanks for taking the time out of your evening and the detailed response to the issues I’m having...I really do appreciate that more than you know.  I’ll address each point one by one.   I run 5 tones, and ran that high of disc because I couldn’t move without digging shredded cans and various pull tabs and beer caps.  If I was on an old relic site I would run it open for sure.  All the places that I have to hunt are stuffed with trash.  I’ve never ran pinpoint to GB this is the first I’ve heard of it.  Now I run it def more open although I haven’t dug a good target under 20...just seems like nothing is decent in this one horse town regarding low conductors.   High tones is all that produces anything and believe me I dig A LOT!   I interrogate the heck out of every target switching from 5 to multi and back at every angle.  Most of the time multi didn’t even see the target I got from 5 mhz and they were good digs.  I believe the higher disc adversely affected multi big time...at least in my case it was clear.  I typically run fe2 and speed at 2 as well.  I’ve toggled the two of them and def see the difference although no difference in depth and id to me.  To me there isn’t much way of getting around digging shredded aluminum due to the various shapes and thickness.  I’m decent at listening to the sounds but some times I can’t tell if it’s trash aluminum.  I still have more to learn on this machine for sure.  In the am...I’m leaving for Galveston and hitting the beaches for two full days.  Hopefully I’m proficient enough to make it happen!  Thx again!

12 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

That's a pretty high discrimination threshold.  EMI reports (i.e. the erratic sounds) can be pitch dependent, so possibly you were just hiding it with your discrimination.

etc.....

Wow that is an incredible response!  I think you pretty much summed up a lot of my concerns in a few points.  First I realize I had a crazy high disc and once I opened it up multi was back to normal and 5 kHz was actually a bit deficient(but not by much).  Second, once I opened up the disc I started having emi issues...guess what was 10 yards next to me? Huge power line.  So the disc covering the emi aspect hits 100% home in my case.  In addition, once I lowered my sens to 20 I seemed to get less moving targets and better ID across the board.  I hooked into a coin spill  shortly after.  The trash that is everywhere are beaver tails, beer caps, and foil but not as bad as the former two.  I haven’t adjusted the tone level and cut off yet so I think that is my next move.  I also want to get the 6” coil but in the meantime I feel I can still separate well with the 11” due to what I have seen.  I also get a high tone flash one way on a swing and then nothing when I swing the other way?  Sometimes I’ve went over and over and dug and mostly is it some weird iron.  However, I pulled two wheaties that were 9” or so in the scenario as well.  On my past machines if you here a weird crackle or anomaly on the tones on target then that was an indication of trash?  Does the same hole true on our powerhouse?  Or is that not so much ironclad vs single vlf machines?