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GoodAmount
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On 6/7/2025 at 9:02 AM, GotAU? said:
Great set up! Do you use any tube liners or armor for your tires? I installed mine with a thick rubber liner, plus I put Slime puncture sealant in each tire just in case.
I carry a couple of spare inner tubes and a repair kit, but would also benefit from tyre liners. I’ve collected enough thorns and nails over the years to know to always go out with backups. I used to use thorn-proof tubes, but they have a thicker/stiffer wall section and would quickly tear where the tube is bonded to the valve stem when the tube crept around the rim - even when running high pressures. You can’t glue a patch there either. After getting stranded once, I reverted back to regular tubes and just carry a couple of spares.
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I thought the same thing a couple of years ago when I first got my 7000 and was shocked when my prospecting buddies were doing better than me with their 2300 and 6000. I went away to Inglewood with them (which has some patches of very variable, highly mineralised ground) full of confidence that I had the most powerful machine available and would come out tops using it at its max power in normal HY. I got absolutely caned by them, coming home skunked and with my tail between my legs, while they both did really well. I now use difficult HY sense 14 in that spot and come home with a competitive, if not tops, gold take. I use normal wherever I can, but difficult where I must.
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I’ve tested this many times and there’s no golden rule sadly - as with most of our conversations here on DP, results are variable depending on the ground. On some of the heavily mineralised ground I hunt small pieces (sub 0.05) don’t even register in normal because the background noise swallows up the signal even at low sensitivity, but they sing out as distinct targets in difficult. Conversely, on a quartz tailings piles you bet I’m switching to normal - it goes WAY deeper on specimens, especially if you can crank up the sensitivity.
I like to go over heavily mineralised spots in difficult HY with highish sensitivity (16-18) first and if I hit gold I’ll clean it out in those settings then try again in normal with lowered sensitivity. In some cases I’ve uncovered more gold, but more often than not end up digging ground noise for an afternoon. If there’s bigger gold in the area I’ll persist for as long as I can stand it.
Over the past few weeks I’ve been experimenting with lower sensitivity (12-14) in difficult HY as recommended in previous posts by JP and my gold takes have actually increased, but I’m not sure if that’s because of the setting change or just dumb luck sticking the coil into the right spots. It’s certainly a quieter and more pleasant experience though.
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Gerry, that’s a taped up x-coils 15CC in the background. I hate scratching up my coils, so I douse them in duct tape.
(I’m around here often, just lurking in the background 🙂)
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I’ve also got carpel tunnel in my detecting wrist, which makes long hunts difficult. I use a Futuro brace with the aluminum splint removed and replaced by plastic strips top and bottom so I don’t set the detector off every time I pass my scoop over the coil when recovering targets. It doesn’t fully fix the health problem but it makes a big difference to my comfort during the day.
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I’ve got a NF 17x13 and haven’t used it since getting the X-Coils 8” and 15” CC. I’ve found most of my gold with the 8” - It’s significantly more sensitive than the NF 17x13. It’s both super sensitive to tiny gold and easy to poke into spots that other coils can’t get into. This is a winning combination in areas that have been hit hard for decades by other detectors and coils. It doesn’t cover much ground though, so it’s worth having a bigger coil for patch hunting over larger areas.
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Nice work Mitchell!
What timings were you using? The 15” CC should ping pieces much smaller than that too …and the 8” and 10” even smaller still. I find if the ground I’m hunting is heavily mineralised and variable, it’s worth running over it in HY Difficult with sensitivity bumped up as high as I can go. The 15 CC purrs along quietly, but still stays sensitive to the small stuff. I find Normal typically hits deeper targets (in mild ground), but hear the teeny-tiny shallow bits better in Difficult.
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On 11/24/2024 at 6:37 AM, Gold Catcher said:
Do you think it is needed for the 6k? I seem to have much less of an issue, if any, when compared to the Manticore where this was a true game changer.
GC
I’ve been designing myself a new anti twist carbon-fibre-shaft kit for my 7000 so I can collapse it down to fit it in my ebike pannier and the lower shaft was originally made of carbon. It worked out great, but the machine was running noisy for a reason I couldn’t figure out, so when Gerry originally brought up this topic I ran a piece of shaft over the coil and sure enough it sounds off like nobody’s business - especially with an 8” X-Coil. I swapped out the carbon lower for a plastic one and the machine now runs noticeably quieter. I don’t own a 6000, but if it made this much difference on my 7000, it’s definitely worth swapping out your lower shaft for a glass fibre one.
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That’s devastating news Doc!! My thoughts and prayers go out to you and your family.
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48 minutes ago, phrunt said:
I run my GPZ in High Yield / Normal / Maximum sensitivity with the 8" coil all the time, when doing so all I think is the technology can improve a lot, I shouldn't be able to do this.
I can certainly understand you feeling like the detector should be able to give you more than your ground will allow. Running it maxed out all the time takes away some of the joy in decision-making and using your nuanced detector skills from the detecting experience. It would be great if Minelab were doing what Nokta are doing with their software development and responding dynamically to user needs. Imagine a 7000 with a beast mode!
Your experience is very different from mine. I’m rarely able to run my machine maxed out and love it when I can. Today I was only able to run it in HY Normal for about 10 minutes on a 2x2m patch of quiet(ish) slaty tailings. Even then I had to knock the sensitivity back to 15 to reduce the moaning and groaning. It paid off with a nice specimen that I’d missed on a previous hunt in that spot where I’d left it in HY Difficult.
Some of the people I’ve bumped into here in Victoria swear by running HY Normal Sens 7-8 in difficult ground, but I find I miss a lot of the small gold that way. But truth is that I should be making use of all the timings and coil selection on my patches to maximize yield, which takes discipline and time I many times lack. 🙂
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@phrunt I didn’t realise there was a sensitivity decrease for V2 coils. Interesting, I thought it would have been the opposite.
The 12” spiral would be a good option, especially if it has the sensitivity of the 8”, but its weight is 1100gm, making it less appealing for scouting sidewalls of trenches and sharply inclined gullies. It would certainly suit some of the ground I hunt - I wish I could afford all of the coils! 🙂
@davsgold That looks like noisy ground for sure. Thanks for letting me know your settings - they’re similar to what I use, but I can usually bump up the sensitivity to 18-20 in HY Difficult if I’m running the threshold at 12. In really variable ground with the 15” CC I’ve been finding I can still ping tiny specs at reasonable depth if I drop the machine back to HY Severe THS 12 and keep sensitivity high. Even though the machine is desensitized, it runs nice and quiet so I can hear the faint signals that get lost in the noise of the higher timings. This strategy doesn’t work as well with the 8” though.
@fourtyniner The 8” was the best investment I’ve made for the Zed. It’s paid for itself many times over. I’ll certainly buy another one if it ever breaks.
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Thanks for the tips phrunt and davsgold. The key thing for me here is the weight of the coil vs sensitivity when patch hunting for days at a time. I’ll usually swap from a larger coil to the 8” after I’ve pinged my first bits and move very slowly if there’s gold to be found. Then swap back to a larger coil afterwards to pick up any of the deeper bits I’ve missed - which quite often isn’t very many.
@phrunt, you’ve been a great advocate of the 8” and I’d be interested to know your experience with owning both the 8” and 10” given the size difference isn’t that great. The 10” is about the same weight as the 15x10” DOD - could the 10” suffice as a patch hunter? In your opinion, does it give adequate coverage for that function given it doesn’t lose too much of the sensitivity of the 8”?
@davsgold I’d be interested to know how mineralised/variable the ground that you hunt is? How noisy is the 15x10” spiral in it and can you comfortably swing it for days at a time? I’ve got to run the 17x12” at a lower sensitivity in the ground I hunt, which is why I’m wondering if a 15x10” DOD might be a better option.
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I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the 15x10" DOD X-Coil on the 7k?
I've currently got the 17x12” spiral, 8” DOD and 15” concentric and have found the majority of my gold with the 7k using the 8”, cleaning up the crumbs in surfaced areas and rocky terrain that have been hit pretty hard by other detectorists. It’s been a fantastic coil, being super sensitive, surprisingly deep and pretty stable in variable ground and I can push it into nooks and crannies and into the undergrowth where it’s not possible with a bigger coil. I owe it big time, but ground coverage is obviously very limited and I’m finding I’m increasingly using the 15” concentric to cover more ground. It’s a fantastically quiet and sensitive coil, but it’s giving me tennis elbow and a dicky wrist as a result of swinging it many hours a day. I’m also sure I’m missing targets close to trees and obstructions given its lack of edge sensitivity.
I haven’t used the 17x12” spiral for a very long time - it’s heavy and noisy in the ground I hunt, so I’m thinking of selling it and buying the 15x10” DOD. I’m interested to hear how it compares with other X-Coils, particularly for regular day-long patch hunting. It’s pretty appealing on paper, given it has double the ground coverage of the 8” while being only 130gm heavier and it’s elliptical profile is good for maneuverability. How is it for sensitivity, stability and depth?
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On 7/22/2024 at 12:44 PM, Hunterjunk said:
Some of you may well get a laugh at my rough effort at a shaft but it works . They old saying " The proofs in the Pudding " is very apt in this case !
Well done Hunterjunk, I think this is brilliant! You might just be creating a subculture of timber-shaft enthusiasts. How is it for stiffness?
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For those who have access to a 3D printer and are interested in testing a non-conductive lower shaft on their Manticore as a temporary measure before sourcing one from steveg, I've uploaded stl files to the downloads section of the forum. I don't own a Manticore, so I went to a friendly dealer to measure up the Manticore's lower shaft and designed the parts. I haven't been able to test how the machine performs with it since though, so I'd be interested to hear from anyone who can. I know my 900's operation has noticeably improved since using it's new lower-shaft extension. I hope this helps!
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I wonder if the CF lower rod might also be responsible for Nox 900s occasionally behaving erratically. Mine's done it a few times now for no apparent reason. Could the shaft be sending the detector into a feedback loop?
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30 minutes ago, Tony said:
Full credit to that design...but I had some 3D printed stuff and the sun and saltwater took it's toll really quick. Now this may have something to do with the actual plastic product used in my situation so I don't really know much else. This was some years ago so maybe the 3D printed stuff is better(er).
I can relate to your experiences with low quality 3D prints. The industry has come a long way in the last few years though, with some automotive manufacturers even using it for production parts. Yes, it does rely on the correct plastic being used, but also on the printing process (FDM, SLS, SLA, etc) and quality of the 3D printer to get high quality parts. Not all 3D printers are created equal and not all people using them know how to get the best out of them. The product also needs to be designed appropriate for the printing process and oriented correctly in the machine to make best use of layer adhesion (which is why I've designed this in multiple parts to get the grains running in the right directions appropriate to force). It is worth using a reliable 3D printing service if you don't have your own machine and you have to pay retail prices, but the big advantage for people with 3D printers is that if a part breaks you just print another one. But yes, you definitely want to design parts for best longevity in the first place.
In cases like this though it allows us to innovate quickly, testing functionality without investment risk and finding alternatives in an open, distributed and collective way. I'd be keen to see others riff on the design and improve it over time. But at the very least, it's a good way to test whether a non-conductive lower shaft will meet your prospecting requirements - especially if you have your own 3D printer at home. It's free (except for material cost, which is around $2-5)!
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Just letting everyone know I've uploaded the 3D printed Nox900 lower-shaft extender I designed to the downloads page. I know everyone is super keen for Steveg's Kevlar lower shaft, but this might suffice for now for some people. I've been using it for a few days and it's proving to be quite robust and pleasant to use, particularly when swapping coils. I'd be interested to hear other's thoughts about it, so let me know how it works out if you make one. I'm thinking I'll make a Manticore version too. I don't own one, but I'll pay a visit to Miners Den and get a lower shaft for reference. Anyway, I hope this helps a few folks out. 🙂
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Maybe they’ve got salt discrimination built in across all modes?
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8 minutes ago, RONS DETECTORS MINELAB said:
all I really have wanted is just a short adapter on all my coils that will keep me from having to buy any extra shafts and now also be able to use carbon fiber shafts with a short non-carbon fiber adapter.
Me too! Having a whole new lower shaft for every coil is so unnecessary, but undoing the bolt to release the coil from the clevis then finicking around to get the next coil mounted is such a pain in the rear end. After I upload version 1.0 to downloads, I’ll design the next version to be hot-swappable.
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I’m fascinated by this thread - it’s a great example of innovation happening in real time. While it’s anxiety inducing for people who build a livelihood from doing these kinds of things things, it may actually open new approaches that raise the bar on detector construction.
Innovation is driven forward by overcoming both functional and user experience problems. Given most problems are wicked problems, where one solution creates new and unforeseen different problems, there’s an endless cycle of design and redesign that keeps the commercial world turning and industrial designers like me busy and happy. For me, everything only becomes clear when I try things out for myself in the real world, testing and evaluating different options to get the best fit.
As far as this conundrum is concerned, I can see myself buying one of Steveg’s Kevlar lower shafts, but in the meantime I’ve prototyped an attachment that does the same thing functionally to see how much of a difference separating the carbon fiber shaft from the coil actually makes on my Nox 900. It’s basically just a 3D printed extension that bolts onto the existing shaft.
I took it out for an hour or so yesterday to see how it performs. I was mostly hoping it would alleviate coil knock, as that’s been my main problem with the 900, but would have been happy if it just helped with the target-recovery issue gold prospectors like me have been talking about.
The test wasn’t scientifically undertaken - I’ll do it more rigorously when time permits - but it did feel like it made a slight difference to coil knock. I’m not sure if it was just placebo, but I was also able to raise my sensitivity in the area I’ve been hunting by two increments from 18 to 20 which was promising. But the key thing was, it seemed to eliminate the knock issue during target recovery so it was a definite win from that perspective. Again, I haven’t rigorously compared and contrasted it with the stock setup under controlled conditions, so it might all just be wishful thinking, but I think it actually helps.
I don’t want to step on any toes, but I’m happy to upload the file to the 3D print downloads section on this forum for others to print and use (I just need to update a couple of things before I do). I don’t have a Manticore, so it’s just for the 900. Just a warning to those who’d like to give it a go, it’s much more flexible than a carbon shaft and adds extra weight to the setup. It will also probably snap if you accidentally step on it, but at least it will give you an indication if it’s worth investing in a kevlar lower shaft when they become available.
I’m thinking I’ll design another version that’s a clip that allows you to snap-fit a cutoff bottom section of an existing fiberglass or plastic lower shaft. This would help maintain overall stiffness and strength in a way that a 3D printed ABS tip can’t. Long term I’d actually be interested in seeing hybrid shafts developed - one-third fiberglass, two-thirds carbon - that keep both weight and cost down.
Anyway, I love this kind of stuff. Looking forward to continuing the conversation.
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I’d put my bets on VLF-like multi frequency/6000-Geosense approach, but with multiple concurrent ZVT timings plus Algo-like discrimination. You can be guaranteed Minelab will have developed highly complex algorithms to match the capacity of current chipsets to get the most out of the machine in deep, hot, variable ground. I wouldn’t even mind if it was heavier than the Algo or 6000. I’d be surprised (and disappointed) if the 8000 doesn’t reinvigorate old patches and open new ground like the Equinox 800 did for relics, coins and small-gold hunting.
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Thank You Steve Herschbach
in Detector Prospector Forum
Posted
Good equipment + good research + boots on the ground + curiosity and determination + detectorprospector forum = success.
Thanks Steve and everyone who contributes here for adding to my success. I can honestly say that without this forum I’d still be working a full-time desk job. I hope I can help pay it forward to others too.