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Coilpower

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  1. 18 hours ago, kac said:

    Clad coins I dump into a vibratory tumbler with fine walnut shell that doesn't hurt them at all.

    Do you check the quality of the vodka over ice prior to dunking the coins in? 🙂

    Lol...yes! .....before starting!

    I have found Hagerty' Silver Foam to be brilliant to use on silver rings and coins. The badly blackened rings need a couple of repeats of the foam which at least doesnt scratch. 

    To those who shine their silver coins so they blind, a little sulphur will reblacken and look more natural.

  2. Clad....in my case NZ decimal cupro nickel 10, 20 and 50 cents I am ruthless with. The crusty rusted blob coins are put between a cloth and whacked with the hammer to break the crud up. From there, 2 choices. Rotary rock tumbler using malt vinegar and table salt (I dont bother sorting copper colour from silver colour so all come out pink) OR I use CLR. (Calciun, rust and lime descaler which is fairly potent acid). Coins get swirled with a wooden stick in a container and soak for 10 minutes in CLR, then a water rinse, another short soak in baking soda container then air dried. As long as the bank can recognise them they are accepted. 

    I experimented with old copper pennies pushed into a potato, but the starch dried them out horribly even though they came out clean. I dont clean any coin of any value using water. I dry pick the date so I can read it. I like patina. Silver coins of no value I have experimented with the baking soda/aluminium method, lemon, citric acid, methylated spirits, vodka, the freezer method, electrolysis etc. I am still experimenting odd times on non value coins to find a safe way to get crud or dirt off.

    Ocean coins soak in hydrogen peroxide and washing soda, or a mild non acidic soap and water solution. 

    I read somewhere on the internet some VERY good advice worth thinking on......and roughly that was.....For every step you take or liquid you put on a coin to clean it, you CANNOT undo that step. The next step you take adds to that.....ALSO irreversible. So in short, any coins of value I will leave the cleaning to the next owner.

     

  3. Hi Carolina. Dont know if you saw it, but the above has all been cleared up for readers in the following topic in the Tarsacci Forum here. All good now and explained in link from Phrunt below.

     A 12 inch coul would be nice.....as would a small one for trashy areas, but then again I would probably procrastinate more as to which coil to use. Its only been a year so no doubt something will appear on the horizon!

     

     

     

  4. On 2/9/2020 at 4:24 PM, 2Valen said:

    Good finds and it does look as if some of them were quite deep.

    What was the average depth of those coins?

    Hi, unfortunately I didn't measure those at the time, but can say yes....some were deep. I guesstimate from 1 scoop to 3 scoops to get some out. Here is a photo of my scoop which WAS 12 inches, but now worn to 11.5 inches after 10 years or so.

     

    IMG_09022020_175900_(800_x_600_pixel).jpg

    IMG_09022020_175804_(800_x_600_pixel).jpg

  5. 20 hours ago, phrunt said:

    People testing products or even early birds using a product are very much opened up to scrutiny.  It's a fact of life and it will never change it seems.  It can be quite depressing being attacked for doing nothing but trying to help others.  The selfish thing to do would be to keep it to yourself and take advantage of it, cleaning up every spot you can yet everyone always thinks you have a motive for expressing your opinions, good or bad.

    Savvy readers end up knowing what to believe and what not to believe, some people will just always want to go on the attack. If you're enjoying using the product and it's working well for you then thank you for sharing your experiences with us all.  It's not an easy task but it is appreciated.

    Over time the product will prove itself with more users, and you will be vindicated and then finally appreciated for what you've done, it just takes time.

    If the brave people among us were never willing to take the scrutiny and sometimes abuse it would be very difficult for a product like this to take off.  Sometimes it seems if it wasn't for these smaller outside the box manufacturers and innovators making products the industry would be pretty stagnant, even First Texas only has their possible competition to this detector because of an outsider.

    So true Phrunt. Wise words from one so young! (Younger than me anyway)

    I came out of the "closet" .....  as being "selfish" is counter-productive to the advancement of a detector I currently use 95% of the time. I am enjoying life without feeling guilty.

    It takes many $$$$ to study physics, engineering etc......then to put that knowledge and "out of the box" thinking into patenting that technology, buy components, pre market test etc etc.......all to produce a detector for end users to indulge in their hobby.

    In the past I used a Sovereign GT which  was a brilliant beach machine but the years have rolled by and despite it still being a good unit it was heavy, and the market does not stay stagnant, which benefits us.

    I have little free time so try and make the most of it. Yeeup......I can take as good as I give, but I will always respect others. Learning and sharing is never ending....n'est pas?

     

  6. Coins, bits, fishing sinkers and half a ring from beach last week in NZ. We have new 10, 20 and 50 cent cupro nickle coins which just degrade and rust in the sea salt or even the soil. The bad ones I just put between a cloth and a few whacks with a hammer to get the crud off, either rotary tumble with malt vinegar and salt or if Im feeling vicious.....into a container of CLR (calcium, lime and rust remover), then a container of water, finaly container of baking soda and water. Banks here will only accept coins that are recognizable.....no matter the colour, as in rotary tumbling I plonk the 10c cupro copper with "silver" 20 and 50's and they all come out a pretty pink! Only advantage of cupro nickle is they are magnetic.......using a 120kg pull neodymium is interesting fun !!!!!! However, what the photo does say is they were deep and bèen in the sand a long time.....and that is from a beach which is constantly detected by others.

    IMG_08022020_154949_(800_x_600_pixel).jpg

  7. 15 hours ago, dewcon4414 said:

    I think everyone believes that im selling the too lol.   I happen to know NASA Tom since he lives on the other side of the island so to speak.  I have absolutely no stake in this except like you i like to see new machines that work promoted.   That keeps the hobby progressing forward.  Im a little baffled as to why more Fl guys arent jumping on this machine...... well unless they are waiting on the new Fisher AQ.   A couple of inches in depth is pretty significant.   That equals or exceeds most PIs except the TDI and this machine has good TID and disc most just dont.    Most of us have progressed from the Xcal , which we modified at an addition cost of nearly $400+, to the CTX...... and we know what that costs and even the AquaSound which new was $3300 ... coils were $500 and battery change $400..... and for the most part wont work well out of Fl.   This machines cost only shocks us because of the NOX.   Otherwise we wouldnt blink.  I knew that guy was blowing smoke at $4000..... my assumption was he was trying to IMPRESS.   They pay for themselves if you beach hunt.   Interesting you mentioned a unique coil...... i know Demitar had spoken of it.  

    Dewcon4414....I have followed your posts along with a couple of other guys off Tom D's forum and I have to say I am very, very impressed with your posts and could certainly with hand on heart,  can endorse anything you have written on the performance of the MDT.  My time is shared between beach and relic hunting with only a little water hunting by comparison. I have both tbe NZ and standard coil, but the latter cannot cope with our black iron sand. 

    I like you have no stake in the MDT/company and will further say I have no loyalty to any particular manufacturer or detector. It is simply what detector works for me in the conditions I put it under. The MDT for the current period in time fufils that hunger. Who knows about the AQ.....or indeed any other machine, which may/may not supercede what is currently used? Only time and users feedback will tell.

    The hesitation of others buying this unit also mystifies me. I guess because you and I were amongst the first to buy and use the MDT we KNOW what it can do, ......the would be buyers don't. 

    ........"I knew that guy was blowing smoke at $4000......" lol.......who wants serious competition? I confess to being a bit selfish about not wanting what little goodies have been left by preceeding detectors to be NOW found by  a large number of NZ MDT swingers!!!!  Human nature Im afraid😅 Hence if you noticed in the article sent to Steve H, the NAMELESS unit cost a packet......enough to put anyone off buying!

     

     

  8. Hi Carolina,  I was the "tester" for the NZ coil, which performs exceptionaly well to the point where I use my Tarsacci 95% of the time...... shared between our NZ west coast black sand beaches, east coast "normal" sand beaches, mud, dirt and water. Yes, I can go into overload on the very very black iron sand, but by running TH0 and Sens 9, tracking.....sometimes Blk sand setting I get results. It just means in places I have to raise the coil a bit higher than normal. Balancing of GB and salt imperative, as is the balancing of other settings. The Tesoro Sand Shark I used never got the same depth, nor did the Sea Hunter Mk2. The GPX5000 just couldnt cope in the same spot as the Tarsacci on the black titanomagnetic iron sand.

     

  9. I have a question pertaining to restoration of iron artifacts. Has anyone used Parrafin Oil at all to say coat an axe head or similar article in rather than using using the hot dip Parrafin Wax method? I have some relics whereby they are delaminating, and wondered if perhaps after wire brushing, spraying with wd40 that I could use Parrafin Oil? TIA for your answers.

  10. As it is so hot in NZ at the moment to detect, I decided to do a restoration on some relics found last year with the Tarsacci MDT8000. I used paraffin wax for the final coating.

    This horse shoe weighed in at 866 grams, or 1.90lbs and that is with it losing some of the rust scale!!!! Circa early 1800s and is a back shoe off a working horse designed for mud and heavy loads. It can be noted there is no "fullering" system (a groove for the nails to bed into) plus the turned heel  bit is referred to as calkins or caulks, pronounced corks designed to give the horse more traction, as was the raised bit at the toe. This shoe is minus its toe clip which would have helped keep it in place.

    The weight limit of shoes for horses was set by courts to be around 2lbs. Times that by 4 and that would have taken a lot of muscle power to plod through the added misery of mud.....sometimes nearly knee deep in Winter. 

    Provided is a link for a short read on the evolution of horse shoes.......enjoy!      https://dressagetoday.com/horse-health-/history-of-horseshoes-17802

    The axe head is circa 1860s and in very bad shape so rather than take too much off which is irreversible, I left it pretty much as found.As far as I know it was a military issue to the British forces here during the NZ land wars. A lot of the problem here is the high mineralisation, fertilisers, animal urine etc that rots relics and destroys history.

     

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    IMG_07022020_144124_(800_x_600_pixel).jpg

    IMG_07022020_143524_(800_x_600_pixel).jpg

  11. Hi all. I have downloaded a photo resizer app off the internet for android devices. It has the resize options of pixels, cms and inches. Which do I use for this site and details please? I am going to try and get my head around uploading photos to this forum via my tablet or smartphone rather than via computer. TIA and help appreciated. 

  12. To correct rumours floating around, there are NO Tarsacci agents in NZ. As I was the first to bring the Tarsacci into NZ early 2019, I feel confident enough with my hours on this unit to offer any help to end users in understanding and using this detector. I am not associated with the company, but my passion for detecting and honesty of feedback was appreciated …..hence the later development and arrival of the NZ specific Coil designed for our black sand conditions, but it also does exceptionally well on our east coast quartz sand beaches, mud and mineralised dirt too.

    The following is a recent cut and paste from this forum which I took as a personal slur whether the writer intended it to be so or not. The link he provided is to an article I wrote in June 2019, yet in January 2020  and as a fellow Kiwi who belongs to that same NZ forum as myself, it raises questions as to the intent of his comment. I would have expected a call to the horse’s mouth, so I say to you…..you can bag the “guy”.....but not the lady! I “promote” by way of letting interested readers “aware” of ANY NEW detector or new technology irrespective of the manufacturer.  These are exciting years as MENSA brains are aplenty so the bar is getting pushed higher by demand and design and whilst I am able to do 6 hour stints, I’m making the most of it with whatever detector does the job I use it for.

    Some guy went on a NZ prospecting forum and tried to promote them saying they've made a special coil for NZ conditions for the detector which put a bad taste in my mouth knowing it was a lie.  Not sure if he's associated with them or not, I hope not.

    https://community.paydirt.co.nz/t/tarsacci-mdt-8000-with-new-specific-nz-coil-release/3826

     

    OK, on a lighter note, Phrunt has also shown you photos of our famous Titanomagnetic black sand. The composition of this magnetic sand is made up of 82% magnetite, 8% Iron Oxide, 8% Titanium, Silica, Manganese, Vanadium, and Phosphorous.

    It originates off the west coast of NZ at Taranaki, and this black iron ore sand is smelted at the Glenbrook Steel Mill and exported overseas. Concentrations of iron vary up and down the west coast…. 3rd degree burns on barefeet have been heard of in the heat of Summer!

    You can all appreciate the challenge for ANY detector in these conditions. Just forget a VLF, a Pulse Induction will cope but it can be hard going. The NZ specific coil on the Tarsacci MDT8000 has only been up against a Tesoro Sand Shark, Sea Hunter Mk2, and GPX5000 so far in this black sand and found targets the other 3 failed on. Don’t get me wrong, the unit is not the holy grail…...It will still overload in places  but the settings can be manipulated to gain success and a quiet unit…..and yes I have found rings…..albeit had to be quick and deep with the scoop as parts of the black beach has like liquefaction sand so the hole fills in nearly instantly.

    My apologies if this post is rather verbose, but I needed to address and clarify some points. I see Steve H. raised his eyebrows at a guy claiming the unit cost over $4000…...and rightly so. Cost is USD $1495 plus freight which still doesn’t convert to NZD $4000…….even on the worst exchange rate plus duty etc. Just think he was trying to put people off buying!

  13. Hi All from Pokeno,  New Zealand. Introducing myself first.Retired and rather reclusive, I hunt mainly beaches, relic, dirt and mud, and a little water hunting. We live rural and I use a Tarsacci MDT8000 95% time and an XP Deus  Still have AT Pro and and XTerra 705 for friends, visitors and the odd swing. Sold all other detectors I have had over the years. Steve has grown a great forum which I have followed on and off over the years and gotten to know, so I hope to contribute to our mutual hobby as well in a small way. 

    I changed my avataar to a NZ Womens Service badge to honour the following; 

    During World War II women worked at 'men's' work to free up over 200,000 men to serve in the armed forces. They were encouraged to "do their bit" for the war effort - from manufacturing uniforms, equipment and weaponry; to working in factories and on farms, trams and the railways. They also served in the Air Force, Army and Navy in Europe and the Pacific. Whereas in September 1939 the female labour force was estimated at 180,000, by December 1943 there were 228,000 women employed at the homefront and 8000 in the armed forces.  (See NZETC: No easy victory)

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