Cascade Steven

Just a suggestion:  Have you tried any of the contacts listed in "Where To Get White’s Electronics Service In The U.S. & Canada" thread in the Whites Electronics section of this forum?  They may be able to guide you to a solution to your problem.  Welcome aboard and best wishes with your repair and hunting.

Some interesting points.  I am curious what would be recommended as the very best snake gaiters for western US work?

thanks

I have used rubber to cast parts in the past and have found Devcon Flexane products to work well.  The stiffness of the rubber can be varied with the addition of a flexing agent.  The same rubber that is used for the part can also be used for the mold.  Devcon also sells the flexing agent and the mold release.  Here is a link:https://itwperformancepolymers.com/products/devcon/belt-rubber-repair/devcon-flexane-80-liquid/

depending upon your location a local industrial supply house may have these products in stock or can order them for you.

Hope this helps provide an alternative, and best wishes on your repair.

Steve H:

Thanks for your perspective and additional info.

Gerry:

Thanks for the reply and info.  I will do some digging on this site for additional information.  

Gerry:  I too need to update my knowledge on detectors and thus have a question about VLF units.  You mentioned that from your perspective that the 800 is the best VLF detector.  Do you know of or do you have any information on an objective comparison of strengths and weaknesses of the 800 compared to the Goldmaster 24k (Garrett)? Just an educational question on my part. Thanks.

PimentoUK: Thanks for the input.  You have made an interesting suggestion about an alternative method of winding.  I am curious as to whether it would improve performance?  Unfortunately I do not have a working machine on which to test it. 

While reviewing some more of my archived files I found the coil winding specifications for one of White's Electronics BFO metal detector coils.  Data was provided by the White's Factory.  This coil was called the "Triplet Coil".  It was manufactured in the late 1960's and early 1970's.  My information is from May 1969.  During this period there were several BFO coil sizes offered: a 3-inch coil for nuggets, a 6-inch coil for coins and a 12-inch coil for large objects.  The Triplet was designed to combine both the standard 6-inch coil and the 3-inch nugget coil with an additional 2-inch coil for added sensitivity for small objects.  Single coils were wound using a wood based enclosure.  The Triplet Coil was encased in a molded plastic housing.  For those of you who have a vintage White's BFO metal detector and would like a combination coil or those of you who wish to build a replica of a vintage White's BFO metal detector I have attached a PDF of the winding details for your viewing pleasure.  BFO Triplet Coil winding instructions.pdf

While browsing some of my archived files I found some service information for vintage Whites metal detectors, geiger  counters and other instruments.  Unfortunately I could not fine the source information so I can not give due credit to the source but these documents were originally produced by Whites Electronics.  Because Whites is now closed I could not contact them for permission to publish.  Steve H:  if it is inappropriate for this information to be posted, please feel free to remove it.

I thought this information might be useful for those who collect vintage Whites equipment and would like to have some service information.  I suspect that, within limits, the information can be projected forward a few years too.

Enjoy. 🙂

1946-1971 25 years of metal detector service.pdf add on 25 years.pdf

Congratulations on the success with the new book.👍

thanks everyone for your replies and help.  Much appreciated.🙂

in the Garrett forum snakejim asked: "an you plug in a Bluetooth transmitter into the Garret 24K to allow to use Bluetooth headphones instead of using the supplied corded headphones ???"

I have the same question for the Whites 24K?  I would assume that the answer is yes, but just thought I would ask any how just in case there was a difference.

Thanks to all for your responses.

Tom:

thanks for your insight and input.  Your knowledge is always appreicated.

tboyken:

You have peaked my curiosity.  What would be a best practices analog method of tuning the coil and also digital method of tuning the coil?  A second question:  If we are so unfortunate as to have this issue, and accidentally do move the, foil, how do we retune the loop?  Just curious for future reference.

Thanks

TTT2856:  If you can not find a source of the shaft coil mounting head, it is possible to make one.   The method that I have used successfully is to cast the plastic part I needed.  If you are interested in pursuing this approach, pm me and I can provide more details.  Another option is to 3D print the part.  If a person has or has access to a machine shop the part can be custom machined from some appropriate type of plastic or polymer.  Yet another option is to find a junk metal detector and salvage the rod head.   Hope this helps.

Welcome to the forum👍.  Just a little food for thought on cleaning the battery box.  If the white vinegar method does not produce the desired results may I suggest a solution of baking soda.  I have used a baking soda solution successfully to clean corroded battery compartments.  The solution I use is 1 level teaspoon of baking soda in one cup of warm water, mixed together (dissolved) in a glass or plastic container. When batteries leak they emit an acid.  The goal is to find something that will neutralize the acid.  A chemical base will neutralize the acid and baking soda is a very mild chemical base and will accomplish the task.  For small areas or tight spaces I dip a cotton swab into the solution and rub it onto the affected area.  Multiple swabs may be needed for larger projects.  You may notice some bubbling as the baking soda solution neutralizes the acid.  These bubbles are the harmless gas carbon dioxide, the same gas that we exhale.  When the surface is relatively clean I dry it with a cloth or let it air dry.  If there is a lot of corrosion, then it may be necessary to repeat the cleaning process and also let the baking soda solution sit on the affected area for a half hour or so during each cleaning cycle to accomplish its task.  Hope this helps and best wishes with you metal detector.

Aureous:  Thanks for sharing. Please keep us posted on the progress of this work.  Sounds interesting.

I'm with Tony on this one 

12 hours ago, Tony said:

White’s deserves its own single forum preserved forever

I do however understand Steve's perspective too.  My second choice would be to leave the forum as-is for one more year before it is transferred to the graveyard.  

Congratulations on the success.  Well done!  Just out of curiosity, if you don't mind sharing, did you detect any of those nuggets through the forest duff and so, what was the thickness of the duff, the depth of the gold in the soil and the size of the nugget?  Best Wishes for continued success.

Congratulations to all involved.  Thanks for sharing

Jasong:  Thanks for sharing.  This is a great tool for any detectorist. 

Very nice find.  Congratulations.  Regarding the "plate" on the back of the spoon, I would like to respectfully offer an additional option.  I have done a little metal casting work over the years and learned that sometimes such a "plate" or thicker section was added initially when the spoon was either stamped or cast.  This "plate" section was used to reinforce the junction between the bowl and handle of the spoon as that is a weak spot.  If the "plate" was added later, there should be a very fine line at the contact.  This line may not be visible until the spoon is thoroughly cleaned and examined under magnification.  However, if the craftsman was very good, they could blend the contact so it is almost unidentifiable.  Just a little food for thought.  Again, congratulations on a nice find.

Gerry and Steve:  Thanks for a great list of information.  Because of other commitments I have had a slow start with using my 24k and am still near the bottom of the learning curve.  So I have a couple of questions about coils: 1) is it possible to offer some additional insight  behind the comment about using the proper coil size for the terrain; and 2) you recommended the  use of smaller coils on the VLF.  For the 24k which small coil is better, the round or the elliptical coil?

Gerry (and also Steve): One other question:  when considering various terrains, would you change anything on your list for desert vs. open forest such as the Sierra Nevada vs. dense forests such as the Cascades of Oregon and Washington?

Thanks for your help.

Lanny:  Thanks again for all of the information that you are sharing here.

Thanks for sharing and I was able to visit their web site and found the same information.  I am here to wish them the very best and anxiously await some new products.